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Love Machine
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366 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I was taking off my 900rr exhaust system this weekend and putting on the stock system. Snapped off one of my studs for the header. I snapped it when I was screwing it back into the motor. I have enough to grab on to with a pair of vice grips. Have to get a pair tonight. I'm just glad I snapped the stud that is all the way on the left side. Side with the horn. I can screw another stud in no problem, just hope I can get the old one out.......

Figures somthing would go wrong.....it always happens to me...:blink:
 

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Site Founder
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9,698 Posts
pentrating oil or wd40 is your friend.

A few years ago I noticed 2 were snapped off on my Buell 1 day before it was to go to its new owner. I couldn't knowingly hand it off that way so had to do emergency surgery. Hours of frustration ensued.
 

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Adam, that sucks but at least you have a piece of stud to clamp onto. Just be careful and take your time with the removal. Sometimes a little heat from a handheld propane torch helps.
 

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Love Machine
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366 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I had a cheap pair of vise grips i was using last night with heat and the vise grips kept slipping. Going to get a bigger, better pair of grips tonight after work. Also pick up a stud or two. Hopefully I'll be back up and running tonight....
Oh, and better get some more WD.......
 

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Official thread derailer
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Worst case scenario.......Good titanium bit and an easy out. If you have to go that route just be careful you don't booger the threads up or you'll then have to deal with a helicoil (sp?)...
 

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Love Machine
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366 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
dadogs said:
Worst case scenario.......Good titanium bit and an easy out. If you have to go that route just be careful you don't booger the threads up or you'll then have to deal with a helicoil (sp?)...

Hmmm, I wonder if i have enough room to get a drill bit in thier....
and how well does a Helicoil(sp?) hold......never used them....

Hope it doesn't get that bad...."may the force be with me!!"
 

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That's nacho cheese!
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If there is room, you may consider chasing the threads with a tap when you get the stud out. If the stud has a shoulder on it, maybe those Craftsman bolt outs might be small enough to extract the stud.
 

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Love Machine
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366 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
First I'll try heating the case up and using a good pair of Vise grips, then I'll get a tap in thier and try a new stud......That's my plan anyway.....Let you know tomorrow how it turned out.....
 

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Official thread derailer
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awarble said:
Hmmm, I wonder if i have enough room to get a drill bit in thier....
and how well does a Helicoil(sp?) hold......never used them....

Hope it doesn't get that bad...."may the force be with me!!"

I've used them a few times on automotive heads and on dirt bikes and I've never experienced a problem. A lot of the time the helicoil is stronger than the existing block material.
 

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Adam... If it comes down to drilling out that stud I suggest you use Ti left handed drill bits of increasing sizes starting with 1/8". File a good flat on the stud and center punch as dead center as possible. Just be careful not to go too large, you do not want to damage the treads. When the stud diameter gets thin enough it will either spin out with the drill or it can be picked out with a needle nose pliers.

IMO stay away from those easy outs, if they snap off you are in deep dodo!
 

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Love Machine
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366 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I'm finding out that M7 which is the thread, is not a common thread. No one has just an m7 stud.....might have to go to dealer on this one....
 

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awarble said:
I'm finding out that M7 which is the thread, is not a common thread. No one has just an m7 stud.....might have to go to dealer on this one....
I checked Ron Ayers, those studs item #15 are M8 x 24
( 15 ) 90035-MM5-000
BOLT, STUD (8X24)

 

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Church of the Holy Smoke
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NOTE: The head side of the stud is 8mm and the nut side is 7mm.
 

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Love Machine
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366 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Wonder if an 8mm stud would fit through the header bracket???? Could drill it out I guess......

8mm stud in motor, Good to know! Thanks, Motocycho
 

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m51142 said:
Adam... If it comes down to drilling out that stud I suggest you use Ti left handed drill bits of increasing sizes starting with 1/8". File a good flat on the stud and center punch as dead center as possible. Just be careful not to go too large, you do not want to damage the treads. When the stud diameter gets thin enough it will either spin out with the drill or it can be picked out with a needle nose pliers.

IMO stay away from those easy outs, if they snap off you are in deep dodo!
I'm with Mike on this one. I used the exact same method on some uncooperative brake rotor bolts on my old 88 Prelude. As long as you're very careful when drilling, it's a very safe, effective method. Once the bit got close to the diameter of the stud, the bolt actually came out with the drill bit when I tried to back the drill out. Easy as cake! Piece of pie!
 
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Yeah I gonna be a 3rd to say it. my ehaust bolt snapped clean with the frame and I used the same method and it worked out they threads were fine and I just had to find a new bolt which is not a problem for the exhaust in the back, but Id def get the oem bolt from a dealer on the header.
 

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Love Machine
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366 Posts
Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Sounds good guys! I'll try that and let you know tomorrow morning!!

Thanks for all the advise!!!
 

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Love Machine
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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Well, Got the stud out!!! Good to go now!!!!! Just added some heat and a good pair of vise grips. Came out just fine. I feel better.
 

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awarble said:
Well, Got the stud out!!! Good to go now!!!!! Just added some heat and a good pair of vise grips. Came out just fine. I feel better.
Good news Adam! Before you install the new stud may I suggest a thin coating of Anti-Seize lubricant. I use the Permatex brand, it prevents seizing, galling, and corrosion. It is also a useful product when replacing your spark plugs.
 
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