[Grumpy]

Is anyone still using this oii in their Hornet? The 15w40 T4 oil...

 

[mcromo44]

Is anyone still using this oii in their Hornet? The 15w40 T4 oil...

I'm still using the T6 JASO labelled 5W40, just in case that is another consideration for you.
(the newer 0W40 is not JASO labelled and has reduced Zn based anti wear additive in it)

 

[Volumetrik]

Is anyone still using this oil in their Hornet? The 15w40 T4 oil...

A lot of people use that oil in the ZRX forums, they refer to it as dino oil! But that engine has 0 oil pressure at idle, so I can't comment on its use in the 919.

 

[mcromo44]

A lot of people use that oil in the ZRX forums, they refer to it as dino oil! But that engine has 0 oil pressure at idle, so I can't comment on its use in the 919.

It's far superior to what Honda specifies.

 

[grgmini]

Is anyone still using this oii in their Hornet? The 15w40 T4 oil...

I am with zero problems and smooth shifts. I buy the 3 gallon cases from Costco and use it in my 00 Suzuki Intruder and 81 GS650 as well.

 

[Volumetrik]

It's far superior to what Honda specifies.

Agreed.

From the research I've done plus anecdotal evidence, Rotella T6 5w40 is not only a great oil, but usually pretty cheap, making it one of the, if not the best price/quality oils out there.

 

[voodooridr]

Agreed.

From the research I've done plus anecdotal evidence, Rotella T6 5w40 is not only a great oil, but usually pretty cheap, making it one of the, if not the best price/quality oils out there.

And my motorcycle and my F250 use the same oil so no mix ups

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[SPDSKTR]

I've heard T6 has far less anti-foaming agents in it and can aerate the oil. I find it hard to believe if it's being safely used in bikes that rev to the stratosphere.

 

[mcromo44]

I've heard T6 has far less anti-foaming agents in it and can aerate the oil. I find it hard to believe if it's being safely used in bikes that rev to the stratosphere.

I'm a bit dubious about that one.
It's got good HTHS characteristics.
I've seen no indication of foaming with mine.
That said in terms of the still JASO labelled 5W40, not the more recent no JASO 0W40 cat' con' friendly reformulation.
Keep in mind that the amount of necessary foaming agents depends upon the formulation, so a simple "less" alone in isolation is not a valid indicator.
Just because it's been formulated as a heavy duty diesel engine oil, does not mean it can't perform very well in a gasoline engine with integrated gearbox.

 

[Volumetrik]

I'm a bit dubious about that one.
It's got good HTHS characteristics.
I've seen no indication of foaming with mine.
That said in terms of the still JASO labelled 5W40, not the more recent no JASO 0W40 cat' con' friendly reformulation.
Keep in mind that the amount of necessary foaming agents depends upon the formulation, so a simple "less" alone in isolation is not a valid indicator.
Just because it's been formulated as a heavy duty diesel engine oil, does not mean it can't perform very well in a gasoline engine with integrated gearbox.

Good point for sure.

However the question did spark my interest and I began researching the specifics about foaming and anti-foaming properties of the T6. I found this thread :
Shell Rotella T6 5w-40.... and the posts from the user Stromrider are quite interesting. I would recommend reading the post and the subsequent posts Stromrider has written as I found them personally very informative.

I generally try to aggregate a bunch of postings, articles and papers and see if they converge to a shared direction on a topic and take my decision from there. Oil seems to be one of the, if not the most discussed, debated and endless topic across the board in every discipline in which there is an internal combustion engine. It becomes very hard to come up with a definitive answer, especially in a market where oil compagnies change formulations quite frenquently.

 

[Islandboy]

Very informative.
For me it's a no brainer. Simply put my 919 gear shifts are so much smoother using a full syn motorcycle oil. Plus the one I use is cheaper than that Honda stuff.

 

[mcromo44]

Good point for sure.

However the question did spark my interest and I began researching the specifics about foaming and anti-foaming properties of the T6. I found this thread :
Shell Rotella T6 5w-40.... and the posts from the user Stromrider are quite interesting. I would recommend reading the post and the subsequent posts Stromrider has written as I found them personally very informative.

I generally try to aggregate a bunch of postings, articles and papers and see if they converge to a shared direction on a topic and take my decision from there. Oil seems to be one of the, if not the most discussed, debated and endless topic across the board in every discipline in which there is an internal combustion engine. It becomes very hard to come up with a definitive answer, especially in a market where oil compagnies change formulations quite frenquently.

Your approach is great.

But Stromrider is all wet re what T6 is designed for.
T6 is for severe duty forced induction heavy duty diesels whose water jackets and oil sump temps are way hotter than any street normally aspirated gasoline engine in a car or a motorcycle.
For that matter, Diesels as an engine class beg for high water jacket and oil temps with heavy load the norm.
Point blank, diesels don't run cool by design, because they can't perform well running cool and their expected service life is decreased.
RPM alone means nothing, as one also needs to factor in the dimension affected velocities to really get a picture.

 

[Volumetrik]

Your approach is great.

But Stromrider is all wet re what T6 is designed for.
T6 is for severe duty forced induction heavy duty diesels whose water jackets and oil sump temps are way hotter than any street normally aspirated gasoline engine in a car or a motorcycle.
For that matter, Diesels as an engine class beg for high water jacket and oil temps with heavy load the norm.
Point blank, diesels don't run cool by design, because they can't perform well running cool and their expected service life is decreased.
RPM alone means nothing, as one also needs to factor in the dimension affected velocities to really get a picture.

Very interesting counter-point. What do you mean by ''dimension affected velocities'' ?

Even though I am graduating Mech Eng this year, the more I read, the more I realise I really don't know much...

 

[mcromo44]

Very interesting counter-point. What do you mean by ''dimension affected velocities'' ?

Even though I am graduating Mech Eng this year, the more I read, the more I realise I really don't know much...

Just a couple of examples that you will instantly be able to extrapolate from.

The longer the stroke, for any given RPM, the faster the piston speed.
Connecting rod big end velocity profiles, same thing.
The larger the journal size, for any given RPM the higher the peripheral velocity at the bearing surface.
The larger the rolling element bearing is, for any given RPM the higher the outer race peripheral velocity is, ditto the inner, ditto the ball circular velocity and ball rolling velocity.

The longer the stroke is, the greater the moment arm is of the throw.

My guess is that your Mech Eng'g studies include very little on engines, while being packed full of Mech Eng'g at large.
But your schooling should make it a cinch to quickly pick up engine design concepts and principles real fast.

 

[Volumetrik]

Just a couple of examples that you will instantly be able to extrapolate from.

The longer the stroke, for any given RPM, the faster the piston speed.
Connecting rod big end velocity profiles, same thing.
The larger the journal size, for any given RPM the higher the peripheral velocity at the bearing surface.
The larger the rolling element bearing is, for any given RPM the higher the outer race peripheral velocity is, ditto the inner, ditto the ball circular velocity and ball rolling velocity.

The longer the stroke is, the greater the moment arm is of the throw.

My guess is that your Mech Eng'g studies include very little on engines, while being packed full of Mech Eng'g at large.
But your schooling should make it a cinch to quickly pick up engine design concepts and principles real fast.

That cleared it up, thanks!

Sorry I got off-topic !

 

[mcromo44]

That cleared it up, thanks!

Sorry I got off-topic !

I wouldn't say off topic.
A slight tangent perhaps, but those can be very good things.

 

[nathanktm]

Only thing I've ever noticed with motorcycle oil is that the shifts are smoother. That was reason enough for me.

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[SPDSKTR]

For as not-so-often as I'll be changing my bike oil, I may just go with Mobil-1 4T Race Oil. It's $45 for four quarts on eBay. Sure, that's almost twice the price as Rotella T6, but that takes the argument out of it at least.

 

[grgmini]

None of my bikes like the synthetic 4T oils. The shifts become gritty almost immediately. I’ve been using Rotella 15-w40 in them for the last 2 years and it stays super smooth and no problems with the clutches slipping. I don’t even use my clutch on most up shifts anymore. Unless the manufacturer specifies synthetic, it’s really up to your own experience with your machines.


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[CB700S]

Been using Rotella T3 (and now T4) in my 919 since I got it many years ago. It's still happy with it.