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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'll call Dan Kyle tomorrow, but while tearing down my cans for repacking I discovered that both of the core section "cones" at the base of the cans are severely rusted and one is eaten clear through. When I build them back up I'll RTV the hell out the end caps.

Will also need new "straps" as they weren't treated too well while drilling out the rivets.

Has enyone else needed to do this?
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Update: Sato does not sell the cores, so its off to a fab shop to have this brazed or maybe custom fabbed "guts". Bummer. Had hoped to hit the EASY button on this one.

 

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A muffler shop should be able to make up a new set. Those are pretty much had it!

Also it is not rain water that has gotten to them it is condensation caused inside the muffler by the engine heating up and down.
 

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I wouldn't RTV them IMHO. I just reassembled my Satos and never RTV them back (they were RTVed at the factory). I've noticed that there is a lot of condensation after each ride and it all stays at the lowest spot of the can. Since I didn't RTVed it back, I have a little weep area from where condensation can drip out, and it does. Especially on the hot and humid day. If you RTV it, you will just trap it in there.


PS, no, it's not red in real life :)

View attachment 10863
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Ahh, many thanks, boys. Please clarify:

1. No RTV anywhere?
2. No RTV in the core to end cap/midpipe seal?
3. No RTV on end cap to I.D. of CF canister?
 

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When made the factory would have put RTV in the joins of the end caps & canister to seal the unit up.
What the guy is saying is that he did not on his repack and the moisture within now drains out the lowest end of the can after you stop. I'd suggest if you want to use the 'drain' option seal 100% of the rear cap (outlet) and 90% of the front end cap leaving a small bit on the bottom without RTV. :smartass:
Also RTV needs to cure for 24 hours before riding or a least overnight.
 

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When made the factory would have put RTV in the joins of the end caps & canister to seal the unit up.
What the guy is saying is that he did not on his repack and the moisture within now drains out the lowest end of the can after you stop. I'd suggest if you want to use the 'drain' option seal 100% of the rear cap (outlet) and 90% of the front end cap leaving a small bit on the bottom without RTV. :smartass:
Also RTV needs to cure for 24 hours before riding or a least overnight.
and the surface inside the can needs to be clean and grease/oil/soot free before you apply the rtv.. or else it will not stick properly and your dog won't love you anymore..
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Good question. CF cans purchased 6/04. Can't recall all the details about the differences anymore. When did they change the tips to optimize the stank?
 

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I think he has gen II, he mentioned ss bends or how he called them "straps".
I'm not 100% on this but I recall the core piece being one solid SS piece, not joined as in roktbox's pic. It looks like Sato changed it to 2 piece setup in Gen 2 and used that steel piece inside SS core. From his pic the core main piece looks nice and solid.

Do you have SS outer cans or CF? If SS, don't use Aluminum rivets, alum reacts with SS. I would use SS rivets on CF as well though
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 · (Edited)
Looks like Gen II then as I do have the banding "straps". :surrender: I had the stank for a while, but took care of that with some different mapping. The cores seem durable enough with no crotch rot, but those end "cones" COULD be heavier gauge, 316L, etc. I say that with no experience and never having taken any other exhaust apart nor having knowledge specific to design and manufacture.

I bought Sato 5 years ago at the recommendation and feedback from the old forum and many of the early 919 modders. Plus, I got a screamin' (mis-advertised) deal on them with the PCIII before it was corrected. That said, it's been a great experience. Would I be in the same boat with Remus, Yosh, Leo Vince, etc.? Don't know, don't care. Can't test them all, can't tear them all down, can't be objective, can't reproduce environments.

I distribute products for a large company and at times we can't satisfy every client's wish for subcomponent parts. In most cases our products are designed to be maintained and rebuilt. Situations do arise though, when specific parts are requested that are simply either not in the larger system (no P/N, never set up as a spare, proprietary, etc). I suspect that the reason a discrete core is not available is that Sato doesn't want to take the time to create that part in an SAP-like system, create a part number, enter it into inventory, do the part maintenance on it to establish a pricing scheme, etc. Could it be done on the down low? Sure, but I understand.

The option to fix simple stuff like this is always appreciated, especially when the alternative is two new canisters @ $799. I know LDH has posted in the thread and was very helpful on this specific issueas well as many other related topics, but I'd hope that future discussions MIGHT ensue with Sato that would lead to a spares option knowing that if my cans are skanky and rotted out then yours may be, too.

It looks like I'll have the old "cones" removed and save the perf cores. A local exhaust shop can fabricate a new, but less than aesthetically pleasing solution that will end up hidden forever anyway. I'll post the before and after pics.

I have the CF cans and haven't had but 1 aluminum rivet pop on me since new.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
The end result is less than sexy, but WTH. See piccy below of the bodged up end cap on the lowpoint end. Ain't gonna get seen anyway. The process was pretty straightforward and I took zaq's suggestions and drilled tiny hole in the lowpoint of the midpipe cap to drain any future condensation and didn't RTV the full circumference of the midpipe cap. The biggest hassle was getting all the old adhesive off the caps and the CF before measuring and weighing out the Silent Sport Premium packing. Truth be told a guy could likely just pack that can right up and get the 98% solution every time, but I weighed it all out on the damn kitchen fruit scale before getting after it last night.

There was no freaking way I thought all that packing (1000+ grams) would fit in the cans, but it did and the folks at SSP were very helpful in getting that spot on.

Kyle sold me some new bands and rivets and the cans look as good now as they did when I installed them. The nice, deep, rumbly tone is back and not the buzzy, mechanical shredding noise. I'll post up a couple pics of the completed cans. It's an easy job, just took about 3 weeks longer than I'd have liked.

 

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HUGE improvement! Exhaust repacking can be "fun" at times.........I just finished a shorty V&H the other day for my FZR........but then sold it. Can't wait to see the finished products!
 

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My Satos are getting to the repacking point as well--any tips or more photos of your rebuild process? What did the local muffler shop charge to fab up those new cores?
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I didn't take any other pictures past this point. The charge was something like $60. I just took the disassembled cores and the end caps down to the shop, explained the need for tight tolerance on the end to end dimension, etc. They used their flaring tool to expand the diameter out to fit the midpipe cap and welded them on after removing the rusted section.

PM me if you'd have any questions of the tear down and rebuild. :thumbup1:
 

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Thanks dude. How did you determine the appropriate amount of packing for the Satos, particularly with the refabbed "guts"?
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Silent Sport provides the formula to calculate the internal volume of the can less the core material. You weigh out the packing and then stuff what appears to be enough material to fill a king size pillow case down into the void. Wear a mask, work gloves, and a long sleeve shirt or you'll be filing mesothelioma claims in 30 years. J/K. The repair likely changed the internal volume by .0001% so no worries.
 
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