Lord Duckhunter said:
I've had to make adjustments of a lot less than 5mm before to get the bike to handle properly...
Chassis geometry is critical on these current bikes. Once you find the magic numbers that allow you to stay leaned over through the turn without putting pressure on the bars, keep the bike from trying to stand up on the brakes & not run wide on exit then it's like crack! You will want your bike to feel that way everytime you throw a leg over it, but different brand/size tires will mess up that geometry as will sag numbers & even different tracks with elevation changes etc...
Sometimes it takes a little work to get it right, but man once you have it & the bike does exactly like it is supposed to then it is just heavenly to ride.
I am with you on that LDH, and I tell, it is quite an art and science to learn. I am no was close to be a knowledgeable person on suspension yet, but the fact that I can even talk this semi-intelligently about it a tribute to to people like you, your knowledge and sites like this. In the past, I would have been left in the dark ages about this kinda thing.
On the point of finding the sweet spot, I TOTALLY agree. I got the bike to that point, and then stupid me changed the tires. When you have the bike dialed in right, you not only ride better - but it also helps you anticipate the bike. Like I knew something was wrong on the rear end before I even got to check the tire for wear. I could tell because the bike started giving me signs of stepping out of it's normal parameters - and it helped me save what could have been a nasty low side.
Wish I was in Memphis, I would ride over to your place LDH and steal that RC filled brain of your's!

nline2long: