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· Registered
12 Posts
Discussion Starter · #22 · (Edited)
Happy new year to all of you!

I just wanted to provide an update on this never ending build!

Maintenance list for this winter;
  • Oil & filter change
  • Check & adjust valve clearance
  • New air filter
  • New plugs
  • New tires
  • New wheel bearing
  • New stearing bearing

More interestingly 4 major modification projects I want to accomplish for this winter,

  • Project 1, Custom carbon fiber adjustable rear sets.
  • Project 2; Custom rear end fairing.with integrated tail light and flashers.
  • Project 3; Replace oem speedo/tach assembly by a compact digital one.
  • Project 4; New custom front fairing with integrated headlight/flashers.
  • Project 5; Fit unknown aftermarket 900rr headers I picked up a few years ago.

Completing all of them might be a hard to achieve this winter, I may need postpone to some to next year.

Onto with project #1
First question you may ask is why? Well why not?
But seriously, I dont like spending money on things I can do myself especially if there is some learning I can do in the process.
. Design is obviously the easy part for me, but the learning challenge I give myself is making them out of forged carbon with 3d printed crompression molds.
Process I will go through:
1) Initial 3D design of the parts;
I started with taking initial measurements from the OEM left side rear set to kickstart my design.
I also looked at alot of rear set designs to get inspired before starting.

Font Metal Electric blue Logo Fastener

Note, this CAD picture beyond V1 which is what has been printed so far.

2) 3D printed samples of V1 and fitment check
Initial fitment looks pretty good IMO,
Bicycle part Rim Automotive design Carbon Composite material

Tire Automotive tire Wheel Hood Motor vehicle

For the next iteration, I will design an adjustable shift link and add a foot peg.
This should allow me to test actualy shifting with the 3D printed PLA parts as long as they can take the load.

I took notes of what to fine tune in the next iterations directly on the 3d printed part.:cool:
Hand tool Tool Bicycle part Wood Metalworking hand tool

Tool Wood Font Airplane Nickel

Wood Rectangle Hardwood Fashion accessory Wood stain

Since I have slots running vertically, I ribbed the mating surfaces.
This will prevent any slipping in case of under tightened hardware or a heavy rider like me jumps on the foot pegs.
The ribs are spaced out by 5mm increments which define vertical adjustability.
Front to back adjustment is defined by which set of slot you use.These are spaced by 15mm and will have a 3rd set on the version 2.
Hand Guitar accessory Musical instrument accessory String instrument accessory Finger

For clamping hardware, I have these 316 SS torx m6 screws laying around we see in the pictures above.
I need to adjust my counterbore to fit them properly, for the nut side, I intend to use M6 weldnuts to obtain a flush rear surface.
I incorporated grooves on the back face to block the weldnut rotation while tightening.

Cylinder Gas Machine Auto part Automotive wheel system

Font Automotive tire Pattern Auto part Rectangle

Next steps...
4) finish design tweaks, reprint and fit check until I'm satisfied.
5) Design right side with braking system
6) Print left side and fit check.
7) Print final design with carbon fiber reinforced filament. I dont plan on riding on these plastic rearsets but I am extremely curious how strong of parts I can 3D prints.
8) Next its to design the compression molds
9) First attemps at making parts.

I will keep posting updates on this project when ever I can!

Feel free to share comments, feedback etc.

If you made is this far, thanks for reading my long posts!:coffee:

(edits: grammar, editing content, adding details)

· Registered
12 Posts
Discussion Starter · #25 · (Edited)
....and clever AF as well. Good work!
Thanks! :cool:

Made some progress on the design and managed to align and scale my CAD model to a picture.
Motor vehicle Automotive tire Automotive exterior Auto part Machine

Few notes;
  • CAD is currently adjusted to lowest and most inward position.
  • I removed the large rib on the shift arm. It was overkill, this will be strong as is.
Most likely overcomplicate the mold design and fabrication process at the same time

- The revised foot peg to has a very aggressive knurl pattern and was extended by 1/2".
The toe peg has a much softer knurl so it doesn't destroy the top of my motorcycle shoes although reinforced in that area.
Black Rectangle Line Automotive tire Font

- Shift arm has now an offset to provide better clearance for the shift linkage.
Line Cylinder Handheld power drill Tool Font

- I still need to validate the angle of the shift link to confirm my offset provides the proper clearance. While making sure reversing shift pattern remains a possibility.
Trigger Gun barrel Machine Parallel Rectangle

Overlaying the CAD to the image really helps identify potential design oversights and aligment issues without reprinting over and over again.
As I am typing this, I just identified one... my shift link adjustment hole pattern alignment is completely wrong!😅
It currently requires a fair amount of adjustment on the shift rod between the low and top positions.
The thread lenght in the ball joints is not unlimited and I want to keep enough threads engaged in both ball joints at all times!
Auto part Font Train Automotive exterior Bumper

I started wokring on the other side assembly, but the design isn't post worthy yet other than the parts I simply mirrored.
You will have to wait for that one! 🍺

· Registered
12 Posts
Discussion Starter · #28 ·
How did you extend the triple tree tube?
A good friend did the whole modification process for me as he is equipped with a metal lathe and is a profesionnal welder.
He completed many fork swaps and fankenstein motocycles that he races, so I trust him.
But in short, here is what was done;

1) Press out the tube from the lower tree
2) Cut the tube in half on a lathe to keep the cut perpendicular to the tube axis.
3) Machined an extension plug that will press into both tube halfs
4) Press the extension plug into the tubes and very important to make sure all three sections are perfectly concentric.
5) Weld the extension and tube halfs together, again triple check concentricity is kept.
6) Press fit the tube back into the lower tree
7) Assemble the fork and enjoy!

If you are not equipped with the proper tools, just have a fabrication or machine shop do it for you.
I wouldn't cheap out on a component that is so critical to your safety.

Also do the clip ons hit the tank?
They don't but they are very close!

I'm considering changing to clip-ons with a little bit of a rise or adjustable.

The riding position is quite aggressive but isn't the most comfortable for daily commuting.
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