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Le So Cal Troll
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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Well i finally got fed up with my headlight problems and random vibrations from the front of the bike at the magical 4500ish rpms.

Anyways over the past OH 2 months i have had problems with my headlight going out, it was always a simple fix associated with a broken solder joint on the starter button... as the starter button cuts the headlight power when you press it.

So the first time it happened i just re-soldered it and it lasted for about 3 weeks. I then went on a ride in which i did about 15mi or so off road on a dirt trail... (yes on my 919... ppl look at me weird), and the next day a buddy and i went out for a dusk ride... mid ride just before dark headlight goes out... and i dont have a screw driver to get into the throttle housing or headlight housing :banghead:

needless to say i rode home without a light invisible as fuck (buddy did ride close in front of my to be my headlight... even then i was still invisible)

So the second time around i resoldered it, and put hot glue on top in hopes that would reduce vibrations and resolve the solder breaking issue.... well yesterday it happened again, and i said EFF IT. i cut the wire clean up in the throttle housing... then down on the plug side in headlight housing i simply wired the two headlight wires together permanently, so when the key is on, the headlight is on. even when starting... tbh there is ZERO issue with this... a headlight draws 4-5amps on low beam... starter 100a + ... the extra 4amp draw isnt going to cause any starting issues and it doesnt, the bike cranks over just as quick as it always has. and i dont have to worry about being stranded without a headlight again (theres a reason why baja guys always run at least two!!!)

Anyways onto the pics.
Here is the wires to the starter switch with its broken solder joint... at this point i had cut the wire clean


Down at the plug end of the pigtail from the throttle housing i cut the two wires for the headlight, pulled the pins out of the plug, n soldered them up.


Some shrink wrap and pins back into the plug later


Walla, always on headlight... no more issues with no headlight.


ALSO while i was at it i redid the beauty ring on the headlight. the chrome ring that goes over the glass is held on by three tabs and was held in place by 3 globs of silicone.... which had all come undone. SO i ran a bead of clear rtv silicone around the front face of the headlight, and side, so there is no way that the ring could vibrate. I also put some electrical tape on the surfaces of the plastic housing where it mates with the main chrome headlight holder to get rid of vibrations. I havnt tested it yet but im sure vibrations will be gone. Also while i was at it i used a lil of the clear rtv on the surfaces that would cause vibration noise on the radiator guard.

This is the ring im talking about.
 

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Le So Cal Troll
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
ya i was done with it comming unsoldered... to big of a risk... i feel as if the battery cant turn over the motor and power the headlight at the same time... i have bigger issues... ie a dead battery.

But tbh i am really more impressed with the way the RTV came out on the headlight ring and rad guard, should muffel any and all vibrations...... and to think it cost me 99c for a tube of clear pro seal rtv at the dollar store!
 

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i repeat, voltage drop to halogen bulbs shortens service life,
hence the interupt on starting. nice work, nice pictures.
 

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Shouldn't have any issues... If for some reason you need to preserve power in case of a weak battery or faulty charging system, just pull the fuse to shut them off.
 

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Le So Cal Troll
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Shouldn't have any issues... If for some reason you need to preserve power in case of a weak battery or faulty charging system, just pull the fuse to shut them off.
exactly, thats what i figured.

Nice job! Hope it holds up.

Have you ever done any hand modeling?
It should hold up alot better than that solder point on the starter switch... whats gonna suck is when the actual starter ones come undone!!! haha.

I do hand modeling on the side, make big bucks :clap:

i repeat, voltage drop to halogen bulbs shortens service life,
hence the interupt on starting. nice work, nice pictures.
eh, if bmw is fine with keeping the lights on while starting (as such in the case of my dads r1200rt) then i think ill be fine :) pluss i have been wanting an excuse for the stock bulb to burn out so i can get a little higher wattage one!
 

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Reminds me I need to fix the vibration on my headlight ring, doesn't always do it but when it does it's annoying as heck.
BTW, what's the Aussie's name?
 

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Le So Cal Troll
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Reminds me I need to fix the vibration on my headlight ring, doesn't always do it but when it does it's annoying as heck.
BTW, what's the Aussie's name?
that one is buddy... the young pup (~ 4 yrs old), hes got one hell of a personality, slightly dumb ... but a pistol haha.

we also have an older aussie "T" is his name (12yrs old), mature refined, cautious and smart as hell.

Aussie's FTW!


and ya the headlight ring annoyed the hell outta me!!!
 

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By the way, I ran some WD40 and exercised the dimmer and kill switch to clean the contacts (per Robtharlson's recommendation) to ease the spikes; check my "high been not switching off" thread (http://www.wristtwisters.com/forums/f94/high-beam-wont-switch-off-28128.html). Never done that before but after doing so, the dominator lights are noticeably brighter. I can only imagine how much crud had built up over the years.

Could be a reason why your solders are melting off and might help you out on the brightness dept.
 

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919>food>beer
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I did a similar setup to that for a while, but not quite as permanent worked well. Then I actually bought the throttle assembly and starter assembly off of a 08 cbr 600 and installed that to fix my head light and starter issues. Works like a charm and looks great too... next item on my list is the master cylinder, I don't like the way it feels anymore.
 

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Le So Cal Troll
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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Hmmm, no headlight vibes on mine. Is it a mileage thing?
naw... only got 14-15k on my 919. it has to do with how you ride it.... i play alot in the higher RPMS, and do quite a bit of offroading my 919... the vibes just undo the solder points

By the way, I ran some WD40 and exercised the dimmer and kill switch to clean the contacts (per Robtharlson's recommendation) to ease the spikes; check my "high been not switching off" thread. Never done that before but after doing so, the dominator lights are noticeably brighter. I can only imagine how much crud had built up over the years.

Could be a reason why your solders are melting off and might help you out on the brightness dept.
hmm ill have to take a look at the high low beam switch as well and clean the contacts while im at it.

the solder point isnt melting its just cracking and vibrating off, i want to say the lil copper thing has a small hole in the center to put the wire down into... but its almost impossible to heat the copper piece up enough to do so without melting the surrounding plastic.
 

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Le So Cal Troll
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5,766 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Did you have to cut the blue and white wire at the throttle housing or just the black and red one?
neither of them technically have to be cut up at the throttle housing as they are cut down in the headlight bucket to splice together.

The picture where it shows the red / black wire "cut" at the throttle housing is actually because the wire broke off of the soldering pad.
 

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Le So Cal Troll
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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
not a problem glad this could be of some help!

FYI.... since i have done this.... over 3 years ago (fucking a how time flies) i have had zero issues with my headlight.
 

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I'll be splicing tomorrow after today's shortened ride and a frustrating game of "wish I had one more hand" along with my crappy soldering iron.
At the very least, I wasn't diagnosing for hours. Didn't even need tester thanks to this site! Did buy a new headlight though..
 
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