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Naked in Cheese Land
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192 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Guys - I scored some 3" Delron cut-offs from a plastic company here and I want to make my own sliders. My question is where do you guys think the best place to bolt them on would be?


Position A - is what i'm thinking due to the fact that if I did go down it shouldn't put too much added torque on the engine casing.

Position B - would be good too, but I;m afraid of putting it down and the leverage of the slider cracking the casing.

What are your thoughts?
 

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Wookie
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7,274 Posts
Should be put on whatever bolt is used for an engine mount. Said bolt should be a rod actually that goes all the way through to the other side.

Either that or I'm way off here. On an Engine mount for sure though. How would it break the engine case?
 

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Honda Addict
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828 Posts
http://p196.ezboard.com/fhornetsnest56467frm14.showMessage?topicID=2663.topic

Check out the above link for the worst case scenerio of mounting them in position B. Nasty, nasty. He must have gone down hard because I went down hard enough to bend the bolt on a Sato slider and split the slider in half and my engine case came out ok. Still have mine in position B but after seeing that hole, I think I'm going to move them to position A! :eek:hmy:
 

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Naked in Cheese Land
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192 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
right - so a threaded rod all the way throught the Frame to the Sliders - Not a problem - thanks for pointing me in the right direction.
 

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Heavy Metal
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4,304 Posts
honda OEM is option B

LOS is option A

i'd go w/ A and use the rod/sleeve as suggested

another point to consider is how they mate up to the frame...you don't want oversized sliders and an undersized bolt w/ too much offset between the slider and the frame creating an exaggerated point of failure...

checkout the LOS sliders, the LOS setup is a good place to start
 

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Love Machine
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366 Posts
I ended up making mine. I picked the b location. Check my site to see mine that I made...

I thought a engine case would be cheaper than a frame so that's why I went with b.....Am I wrong in this thinking.....
 

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That's nacho cheese!
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17,705 Posts
awarble said:
I ended up making mine. I picked the b location. Check my site to see mine that I made...

I thought a engine case would be cheaper than a frame so that's why I went with b.....Am I wrong in this thinking.....

Yes, adam, you are wrong wrong wrong like a swinging monkey dong. No seriously, a frame is gonna take a tweak and the case is gonna get boned. But I like the idea of making your own.
 

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Love Machine
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366 Posts
Bigdaa said:
Yes, adam, you are wrong wrong wrong like a swinging monkey dong. No seriously, a frame is gonna take a tweak and the case is gonna get boned. But I like the idea of making your own.
Yep, Bigdaa, I am wrong.:oops: That's what I get for assuming....lol. I just looked on Ronayers.com and the frame and the crankcase are only 126 dollars difference. Plus, what am I thinking, I would rather swap a frame than a whole engine case, I'm a tard.

Looks like I'll be moving mine for sure now!!!!!
 

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Heavy Metal
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4,304 Posts
the part of the frame you're worried about is really just the cradle for the radiator and should be an easier fix than the engine case....

course, w/ sliders you never know til it happens...

the motion pro isn't a bad setup...if you add a rod and figure out how to flush up the bobbins a little tighter to the frame
 

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Registered
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3,432 Posts
I picked up sliders from Motovation. Mounting location A for about $30 less than LOS crash bobbins. They use a rod all the way through, just like they should. I haven't had to use them, yet. Hopefully I'll never need them.
 

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That's nacho cheese!
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17,705 Posts
Dark8 said:
What are your thoughts on theses:

http://www.twistedthrottle.com/trade/productview/2356/197/

Best of both worlds? Just wish they were about $100 cheaper....
It would be a better choice than an engine case only. It gets to transfer load through a machined (therefore bendable and not breakable) aluminum mount to two different locations. I still gotta recommend getting away from any motor contact. The slider contact point is also placed away from the bolt centerlines and this makes a lever arm, which magnifies the force to the mounting points during impact.
I think that some of this stuff is engineered for sale and not for function. But in the case of the double mount, there is some thought given to the 'frailty' of the engine mount alone. It is a rule that cast stuff is weaker than machined billet. Also, steel is very good at absorbing energy while maintaining it's form without breaking.
 

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Heavy Metal
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4,304 Posts
well said, thx 4 that

only other comment...the sliders that have a designed gap between the frame and the bobbin (creating that bad-news point of leverage), in some cases, can be improved w/a couple washers to take up the gap (thx m51142 4 the suggestion)
 

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Naked in Cheese Land
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192 Posts
Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Thanks for the information gang - i need to make some time to get to the Lathe. I'll post pictures when i get it done.
 

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That's nacho cheese!
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17,705 Posts
Just post some more pics of that chick with the chubs in your avatar (no offense if she's like your mom or gf or sis or wet nurse)
 
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