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15 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
No name for the bike yet, previous name from PO was Connie.

It wasn't supposed to be a restoration, but, it has turned into one due to outstanding repairs required, and items that need to be addressed first.


  1. Center Stand Tab rewelding/reattatchement
  2. Center Stand installation
  3. Frame paint/powdercoat
  4. Kick stand needs to be restored (very rusty, and doesn't move easily)

Suspension & chassis:

  1. Fork oil change, up to 10w (or 15w? What does Wrist Twisters reccommend over the OEM weight?)
  2. Fork Seal cleaning
  3. Front wheel bearing replacement (grinds when spinning by hand)
  4. Rear wheel bearing replacement (grinds when spinning by hand)
  5. Upgrade/switching to tapered head bearings
  6. Swing arm bearing maintenance/regreasing
  7. Front brake rebuild (Sticks closed sometimes, fluid is good, but bolts rusty - I suspect only surface level maintenance before hand)
  8. Rear brake rebuild (Sticks, bolt very rusty.)
  9. PO removed handle bar weights to fit bar end mirrors. Have a set of rhinomoto bar end weights that will still allow me to run bar end mirrors.
  10. Install Oxford heated grips
  11. Relocate License Plate, since current setup isn't compatible with under-tail exhaust.
  12. PASS INSPECTION (Reflectors on the sides, rear, and all that jazz)

Future Suspension & chassis:
  1. Pads+Rotors
  2. Stainless Steel Braided Lines
  3. Fork seal rebuild
  4. New springs+valve emulators. Might as well send rear shock to get rebuilt at this point.
  5. Chain replacement + sprocket change
  6. Paint is peeling off some of the black painted parts. Will get it powder coated sometime in the future.

  1. Previous owner wanted to upgrade to hydraulic rear brake actuator, but, they stupidly cut the connector on the ECU side to do it rather than leaving it so a connector could be used from rear brake actuator to OEM connector (sorry, but, not sorry. This was a terrible idea PO) Currently, due to time constraints, bought an OEM rear brake actuator, springs, OEM style connectors, and other bits.
  2. Wiring on turn signals is going to be properly soldered and heat shrunk over the current electrical tape fix.
  3. Connector for Coils 2&3 are broken, was hanging by 2mm and it warped/bent, and broke off when disassembling the motorcycle. So, replacement part otw.
  4. Rear brake light housing is a little loose, missing OEM bracket.

  1. Air intake boots are very worn/cracking, so will replace all four.
  2. Clutch cable was very worn, replacing.
  3. Air intake change, quite dirty.
  4. 900rr exhaust being replaced with dual under the tail cans from Delkevic. No ORINGS/Manifold gaskets on any of the exhaust pipes.
  5. Full coolant flush, and coolant cleaning.
  6. Gas system needs to be flushed and changed. (no rust in gas tank though)
  7. Bike was previously raced with, I'm not taking chances. Filling with 10w-40 semi synthetic, will run for less than 50km (30 miles), then mix with engine flush and chance to full synthetic 10w-40 to make sure engine is clean!
  8. Valve clearance is atrocious. Massive deviation for intake, needs addressing.

Cylinder one. Intake: 0.08, 0.10-0.12 exhaust: 0.25, 0.24
Cylinder two. Intake: 0.11-0.12, 0.11-0.12 exhaust: .23, .25
Cylinder three. Intake: 0.06, 0.08 exhaust: 0.23, 0.24
Cylinder four. Intake: 0.07, 0.07 exhaust: 0.23, 0.20-0.22

All cylinders need intake adjustment, and only cylinder 4 needs some adjustment on the exhaust side. Spec is 0.16 +/- 0.03mm for intake, and 0.25 +/- 0.03mm for the exhaust. All spark plugs look rich, maybe this adjustment will fix that.

Future Engine:

  1. New Fuel Pressure Regulator
  2. New Thermostat
  3. PCIII?
  4. Fuel filter change
There's a lot of work to be done on the motorcycle, and perhaps a bigger project than I was expecting. But, it's a welcome one. Only question is: will I finish before rising season?

51 Posts
Lots of work here.
I have always used the OEM recommendations for fork oil so I can't comment on different viscosities.
Take lots of pics and enjoy the process!

6,491 Posts
That is a long scope sheet of must do stuff.
I hope you didn't pay much for the bike!

The front ends are not damper rod type, they are cartridge type.
So emulators are not valid for use.
Stick with 10W fork oil or nominal equivalent for a stock cartridge arrangement, regardless of whatever springs you might change to.
You can revalve and reshim the cartridges to revise the compression and rebound hydraulics characteristics, and when that is done, it is invariably done along with the use of a lighter oil, anywhere from nominal 2.5W to 7.5, depending on the manufacturer and also any suspension tuner you might be using.

15 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Alright, the point of no return was crossed tonight. I'm actually rather anxious, but, I feel like everything should go well.
The camshafts are out, and one cam holder gave me trouble but, ultimately came out.

I plan to reuse as many shims as I can, to save money. Worst comes to worst the shim was beaten on and is slightly thinner than spec. I'm still not sure if I was doing the measurements correctly, but, it FELT correct. Was doing a go/no go with the feelers. Made sure the timing marks were lined up too.

This is what I have so far.

Handwriting Font Machine Clipboard Auto part
Wood Font Rectangle Art Creative arts
Measuring instrument Font Gauge Auto part Circle

If they are too tight, that means they're staying open longer or not closing at all. If that's the case, I do have evidence of this happening, as there is light carbon build up on the throttle bodies themselves (which shouldn't happen on a port injected fuel system?)

There was a thread here before on how to do a valve adjustment, and I did everything except for how to locate TDC for cylinders 2&4, since it asked to align the non TIME notch, but the service manual wants it facing straight up and not aligned.

I plan to get them all to spec, the only reason that one exhaust valve on cylinder 1 is set to the upper limit is because I can reuse the 1.925mm shim off from the exhaust on cylinder 2
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