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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm very fatigued trying to get this bike to start. I let it sit for way too long (like an asshole). It turns over but doesn't start. It will run on starter fluid, no problem. If I give it any gas, it dies. If I blip the throttle cautiously, it will raise rpm then lower, (not as much as a fully-fuelled blip would do). Here is a list of things I've done:

-Charged battery
-Changed all spark plugs
-Change FPR (it was leaking by)
-Change oil 2x, changed fuel filter
-Change fuel pump/filter/clean out gas tank
-Change fuel return like (it was dingy)
-Disconnected PCIII, reconnected normal ecu wires

Here's where I was convinced to get in over my head and patience.
I took off the throttle body/airbox, pulled off the fuel rail made sure everything was clear, and installed new fuel injectors. Also changed those rubber boots because they were so hard I had to cut them off. My dumb ass hit the airbox with the sawzall... but that's a later issue to deal with.

After meticulously reassembling.... same exact issue. Now I have a non-running bike that I don't know what to do with. I just bought a battery that will be here tomorrow.... kind of a last resort here....
 

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Mine would not start a few weeks ago, 2003 Pegjumpfyler ) Started with a stuck fuel cap and fixed that from tips here, Found after 3 months the gas turned to crap and my tank was rusty and coated with varnish, Cleaned tank New fuel pump and filters Fired right up. Seem the pump was going out for the past 6 years. Runs like a raped ape now., sorry I didn' your read though very well try your fuses and relays?
 

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So it runs, as I understand it, but not well. If you've gone through the fuel system, and are satisfied that it's good, then I would advise checking timing and compression. If you haven't, download the Service manual, and go through chapter 21. Make sure all plugs are sparking, that the firing sequence is right (no crossed wires to plugs, if possible). The only other thing I can think of, and a problem for me, sometimes, is to make sure you didn't mess anything up, or forget to reconnect, when going back together.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Mine would not start a few weeks ago, 2003 Pegjumpfyler ) Started with a stuck fuel cap and fixed that from tips here, Found after 3 months the gas turned to crap and my tank was rusty and coated with varnish, Cleaned tank New fuel pump and filters Fired right up. Seem the pump was going out for the past 6 years. Runs like a raped ape now., sorry I didn' your read though very well try your fuses and relays?
Yeah, the pump was absolutely fucked. The tank had a solid amount of corrosion crud. It actually had seized. The new pump and filter run well, I can hear it prime and run when I'm trying to start it. I think the next step for me is like you said, to check the electrical. I also am going to do the flow rate check from the service manual, because I'm suspicious that the filter may have eaten more shit and clogged.

So it runs, as I understand it, but not well. If you've gone through the fuel system, and are satisfied that it's good, then I would advise checking timing and compression. If you haven't, download the Service manual, and go through chapter 21. Make sure all plugs are sparking, that the firing sequence is right (no crossed wires to plugs, if possible). The only other thing I can think of, and a problem for me, sometimes, is to make sure you didn't mess anything up, or forget to reconnect when going back together.
The plugs are firing, the wires are to the right cylinder I'm sure of it because it was wrong after I first changed the plugs. I probably should pull them and clean them because they're likely fouled at this point. BUT starter fluid ignites, so there's at least some semblance of spark. What stands out to me is it is the same exact symptoms as before I pulled it apart. Again, I'm going to do the flow rate test from the manual to see if the new pump actually works and the filter didn't get immediately clogged with shit... I can't do a pressure test because I don't have the fitting for the fuel rail to connect the gauge.

I'm just not sure when to throw in the towel here. I'm about to move cross country for the summer and then I'm moving to an apartment where I don't have a place to keep a dead bike.
 

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McTavish
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Just a thought......

While the spark plugs have been changed, the ignition system does not sound to have been proofed.
If not proofed, then electrical on the ignition side is also an open possibility, be it solely or co-causal with a fueling problem.

Then consider that quick start is 'ether, which auto ignites at a mere 160 C.

In other words, what is presently suspected as being just a fueling issue, might be more complex with an ignition problem also being involved.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Just a thought......

While the spark plugs have been changed, the ignition system does not sound to have been proofed.
If not proofed, then electrical on the ignition side is also an open possibility, be it solely or co-causal with a fueling problem.

Then consider that quick start is 'ether, which auto ignites at a mere 160 C.

In other words, what is presently suspected as being just a fueling issue, might be more complex with an ignition problem also being involved.
Yeah, that's kind of what I'm suspecting at this point and I don't know if I'll have the time in the next 6 months to troubleshoot.
 

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Old, Bold rider
2002 Honda 919, 1976 Yamaha XT500 cafe, TC-JAG TZ250
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As a last resort try to start it by holding the throttle wide open while cranking. This activates a routine in the ECU called dechoke, where the ECU sees the starter is activated and the wide open throttle and cuts the injectors. This gives the cylinders lots of air and no fuel until it has a proper A/F mix (more or less) to fire up. When it does start hold the throttle at ~2500 RPM for at least two minutes, then immediately take it for a ride.
Hopefully this will solve your problem ... as long as you put it back together correctly.

Good luck.

Rob
 

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Left of Centre
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As a last resort try to start it by holding the throttle wide open while cranking. This activates a routine in the ECU called dechoke, where the ECU sees the starter is activated and the wide open throttle and cuts the injectors. This gives the cylinders lots of air and no fuel until it has a proper A/F mix (more or less) to fire up. When it does start hold the throttle at ~2500 RPM for at least two minutes, then immediately take it for a ride.
Thanks (again!) for sharing this, Rob - I had no idea such a thing existed. Lucky enough to still be learning...
 
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