[mcromo44]

Please keep in mind I'm not an electrical guy.
It'd be nice if Rob Tharlson sees this thread and comments, he is THE electrical guru, no question of that.

 

[mcromo44]

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zener_diode

Gotta laugh, as soon as I saw Melonguy's comments about there being a Zener diode, I immediately thought of my '71 Norton Commando, which like any Lucas equipped British bike relied on Zener diode(s?) for the charging system rectification. My bike was fairly new with low hours and mileage, and I only had it for one riding season. At that time, those Zener's were cursed for their failure rate and leaving one stranded once the battery was dead.

 

[mcromo44]

While doing some re-org of the Dropbox I came across the attached that I forgot existed.
The attached deals with re-keying a non HISS (NorAm) 919

 

[beefsalad]

not the rekey procedure I thought it was, but great info! I'd call that more of an ignitionectomy. Changing "tumblers" on all 3 locks was a fun project. Much more fun than snapping your key off 120 miles from home while opening your gas tank. I did manage to fill up with gas, extract the key from the tank, ride home! I replaced the #6 cut "tumbler" that was in the 5th position with a 0. No more shitty weak spot in the key!

 

[Melonguy]

So, if I have this right, between your comments and what I have read about Zener diodes, this is how the non HISS immobilizer works:

For a normative key start, as in not being hot wired:
There is a parallel feed to the ICU that is looking for reduced voltage as exists after the Zener Diode that is below the lock core.
The feed into the ECU is by the Pink wire.
If the bike is being hotwired, there won't be that reduced voltage input into the ECU, which then executes internally to prevent the bike from being able to turned over, fuel to be pumped, or ignition to occur.

Comments please, from anyone that has any.

Exactly

 

[Melonguy]

Sorry my phone stopped notifying me of replys to the post. An update on this. I just got my 2nd new lock set from a different country, and when I installed it I had the same issue. 6v to the pink wire. I simply plugged the Zener diode into the back of the clip and disconnected the same wire from inside the ignition switch so it bridged the red to green wire and she started right up. I'm not sure why none of the key switches put out the proper voltage but at least this is a workaround.

 

[mcromo44]

So I bought a multipack with like 300 for 10$ on Amazon in 30 different voltages. I used a 3.6v 1w zener diode

I'm assuming the 3.6v portion of the rating is how much voltage reduction it provides.

 

[Melonguy]

I'm assuming the 3.6v portion of the rating is how much voltage reduction it provides.

Yea whatever the voltage rating of the diode is what will be cut off of your battery voltage. Also it is worth noting that they are directional. So there's a black line on one side to indicate anode or cathode (I'm not sure which is which off the top of my head but if one way doesn't work flip it.) The battery voltage is oddly only reduced if it goes the right direction