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The "Eagle" Has Landed
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Okay... at the risk of getting flamed to death, I need to ask a question here.

I have Yosh Ti Tri-Ovals on my bike. I would like to shorten them some.

From a performance stand point, this would supposedly improve the mid-range / bottom end significantly.

From an aethetic basis, I would prefer shorter cans on the bike. I just they are too long.

Has anyone done this - Cleanly?!?! Where? And can it be done at home? Also, any idea of the impact on the bike?

Thanks,

WIM
 

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BANNED!
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Whoa... thats a little more than I ever thought of trying...

Why not sell them and buy a shorter style of can?
 

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Official thread derailer
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Sorry got nuttin' man, just the flame:stir:
 

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Enormous member
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I could be wrong, but I doubt that shortening the can will improve the mid-range "significantly," if at all.

I'd imagine that shortening the tri-oval would be just like shortening any other can. Drill out the rivets, yank off the end, shorten the can, put the end back. Baffle replacement optional.
 
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I have done it with oval yosh rs-3 cans , I did it for looks but as far as a power change there was no change I could feel in the seat on an I4.
However they will be louder!!!

Duct tap and a dremal cut off wheel then file it smoothand rerivit the cap back on!!

Before you do anything you need to figure out where the yosh badge will end up in referance to the hanger clamp, You want to cut witch ever end gives you the best placement for the badge, you may need to cut a liitle off both ends, Try not to relocate the badge because then you will have the old rivet holes just hanging out there.
 

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That's nacho cheese!
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I pretty much agree with the above posts. plus:

I saw the results of that done on a 620i Monster. It looked unique. Guy said he had a shop do it. I could have done a better job. If you can get ahold of a quality metal bandsaw with a good blade and guide, go for it. I'm all for the dremel approach but make sure you have plenty of cutting discs on hand. Drilling out rivets is a cinch. You'll place the badge over the old badge rivit hole. Sounds like a fun project to me. You may have an interesting time with some of the guts. First thing is to pop the end cap off and pull the glass out and survey the situation. Have on hand your rivet gun and some nice stainless replacement rivets in case you decide against it and put it back together.
 

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The "Eagle" Has Landed
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
RydTheSlyd said:
I have done it with oval yosh rs-3 cans , I did it for looks but as far as a power change there was no change I could feel in the seat on an I4.
However they will be louder!!!

Duct tap and a dremal cut off wheel then file it smoothand rerivit the cap back on!!

Before you do anything you need to figure out where the yosh badge will end up in referance to the hanger clamp, You want to cut witch ever end gives you the best placement for the badge, you may need to cut a liitle off both ends, Try not to relocate the badge because then you will have the old rivet holes just hanging out there.
Thanks for the tips. Are you saying cut the muffler from the end that goes into the mid-pipes? I can see some of what you are saying. If you cut the muffler from the tip end backwards, you would have to cut beyond the badge which would be quite a lot. And if you don't then there will be at least one open hole. But, if you relocate that badge, wouldn't that cover the hole? To be honest, I don't mind losing the badges, it will give the pipes more mystique to have no badge on them.

As for the improvement in bottom end and mid-range, the only bikes I know this has improved have been another RC and a TL1000S - both V-Twins.
 

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Funny, when people started mentioning the badge rivets, I was wondering if you could cut it at the mid-pipe end. I can't see why you couldn't do it that way and not have to fool with the badge.

The ones I've seen shortened have all been done from the exhaust tip, but seems to me like it would be pretty much the same deal.
 

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RydTheSlyd said:
I have done it with oval yosh rs-3 cans , I did it for looks but as far as a power change there was no change I could feel in the seat on an I4.
However they will be louder!!!

Duct tap and a dremal cut off wheel then file it smoothand rerivit the cap back on!!

Before you do anything you need to figure out where the yosh badge will end up in referance to the hanger clamp, You want to cut witch ever end gives you the best placement for the badge, you may need to cut a liitle off both ends, Try not to relocate the badge because then you will have the old rivet holes just hanging out there.
I would follow the above. But, I would use masking tape (painter's tape) and paper to cover the entire can. Then use a band saw to make a nice clean straight cut through the can. Followed by a deburring tool. Pop a few hole for rivets. Then re-assemble. I doubt you will get any power gains. But, you will definitely get louder.
 

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WIM, put the saki down, put the hack-saw down, step away from your bike, go sober up! :sleeping:

Seriously, other than sound, you arent going to get much in the way power. The only thing shortening will do is decrease the back pressure a smidge. Nothing you will notice, but they will be much much louder! :walkman:
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Evad101 said:
WIM, put the saki down, put the hack-saw down, step away from your bike, go sober up! :sleeping:

Seriously, other than sound, you arent going to get much in the way power. The only thing shortening will do is decrease the back pressure a smidge. Nothing you will notice, but they will be much much louder! :walkman:
Dave - The sound is of major concern, I will admit. Darn thing is loud as it is. But... they are just SOOOO darn long!
 

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This is going to sound really stupid...

Go to either the GSXR forum or the R1 forum and look in the stunting forums. As ridiculous as those guys can be, they definitely have shortened many cans in their lifetime, and I'm sure someone has done a thorough write-up on the procedure. Prolly as many times as they've done cage and 12oclock bar installs.

Of course, you'll spend more time on it and it won't look like two monkeys took a break from pleasuring themselves to build it, but I'm sure the technique is the same.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
MetallicCarrot said:
This is going to sound really stupid...

Go to either the GSXR forum or the R1 forum and look in the stunting forums. As ridiculous as those guys can be, they definitely have shortened many cans in their lifetime, and I'm sure someone has done a thorough write-up on the procedure. Prolly as many times as they've done cage and 12oclock bar installs.

Of course, you'll spend more time on it and it won't look like two monkeys took a break from pleasuring themselves to build it, but I'm sure the technique is the same.
LOL!!! Love the monkey analogy... :laugh: I am getting more than enough information here - I am sure I can manage it. However, as I said, that bike is PLENTY loud as it. Making it louder makes me hesitate a bit.

If I had a choice, I would love to be able to fabricate a system similar to the new GSX-R 750. A short at the bottom. However, I have no idea, knowledge or expertise to be able to determine the detriment to the engine's performance. Things like the back pressure, top end, bottom end, even how the exhaust gases and pressure will resonate and affect the bike. Then you would have clearance issues beneath the bike, etc. I am digressing here... but..... just thinking out loud.

I will probably shorten them. If there was a way to re-pack it with a little more in the muffler - anyone think that might compensate for the loss of back pressure and also help with noise?
 

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Pack it with lots of cotton, that should help:whistling:
 
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if you pack it with steel wool it wont blow out over time like fiberglass, but it does not muffel the sound as well!!
 
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