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Chain/sprox replacement advice?

2K views 8 replies 6 participants last post by  semi_gray 
#1 ·
I was inspired by xrmikey's new chain and sprocket setup, and noticed that I have a few links on my own 919 that are beginning to bind a bit, a bit of rust despite my lubing, etc. etc.
So I got a DID 530VMG (gotta dig the gold chain) and Sunstar sprocket kit (stock gearing, which I like just fine).

In between washing the dust off the 919 from the recent eastern Sierra trip and heading to a trackday at Infineon on Monday, I'd like to replace the chain and sprockets.

Never done it before, though. How tough is removing the front sprocket? What chain tool do y'all recommend? What tools will I need to remove the old chain? (a grinder to grind off the old rivet, I imagine, and a hammer and small drift to push out the ground-off rivet). Also, how do I ensure I've got a good peen on the replacement rivet? I rather fear smashing the new rivet in the masterlink, since I'm unfamiliar with the level of pressure needed.
 
#3 ·
To remove the front sprocket, just remove the plastic cover, has like 3 bolts, then remove the one bolt in the center of the front sprocket and there you have it.

I use a Motion Pro Jumbo Chain Tool Kit (I actually borrow this from a friend, too $$ for me). It works great tho because you can press out the old pen, and you can peen the new rivet with the same tool. Works great for me because there is no grinding off rivet heads to remove them. I would recommend something along these lines if you change chains often.

Here is a link to one.
http://www.chaparral-racing.com/Cha...alse&mscssid=BF330F147A234E4288CE778A8FB533AC
 
#4 ·
There is no substitute for the right tools when it comes to removing / installing a rivet link chain. Gotsteam is right about the MP Jumbo chain press tool, It's a good one. I would still grind down the rivet head (I use a Dremmel tool) just because it helps the tool work better / last longer. When installing the new master link plate, be careful not to press it on to far. On a D.I.D. the pin length beyond the plate is 0.045 to 0.061 Pressing it on to far could cause the link to bind as well as split the X-ring. When steaking the pin, you want the O.D. of the rivit to end up between 0.217 to 0.228 You will need a pair of dial calipers to measure these dimentions. Brake loose the counter shaft and sprocket bolts before removing the chain. Put the bike in 1st gear and have someone step on the rear break while breaking loose the counter shaft bolt. They can be tuff!
Having the factory sevice manual comes in real handy for this sort of thing and I highly recomend getting one. (ebay)
Good luck!
 
#7 ·
:thwak: HBR.

Didn't I mention something about doing a write-up on chain and sprocket replacement after you did mine? :yes:

OK, fine. How about a video we can post up in the new Mechanical section?
I have a feeling that section will get a lot of posts from Rob and I. :innocent:
 
#8 ·
Once my chain tool arrives, I'll try to have Amateur Photo Hour and document the experience.

Any tips on making sure my chain is aligned once I get the new chain on? There's got to be something I can use without springing for yet another expensive Motion Pro tool...
 
#9 ·
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