|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|03-01-2009 09:25 AM|
|hairball919||The only ONE local Power Commander Authorized Tuning Center I called wanted freakin' $400 to dyno my bike, in addition to $150 to hook it up and set the maps! I almost soiled myself! I'm going to call Renton Honda, because they are an authorized "PCTC". I doubt they would charge that much, but then I doubt they have a dyno! I was referred to a guy in Marysville called Ricci Motorsports who apparently does the best dyno-ing in the hemisphere, but he wouldn't quote me a price when he replied to my e-mail asking how much he charges.|
|03-01-2009 09:19 AM|
Okay, here is where you all slam me...
I was told by a dealer, who actually looked it up in a big, thick Honda Dealers book at a desk, the horsepower on the 919 (well, at least the 2007) is:
Advertised: 98 rear wheel hp
Actual: 108 rear wheel hp
This does make sense a bit, because I know that due to EPA regulations, most car makers used to "advertise" a lower actual horsepower rating than the engine actually produced. Fine examples were 426 hemi, 427 BBC, and so on.
But the dealer (he was actually the Sales Manager) actually showed me where it said in his dealer book thingy that it was "advertised" at 98 hp but was actually 108.
So, who is on crack? Me or the Honda Sales Manager at Hinshaws in Auburn, WA? Because I go around town telling everyone my bike has 108 hp. I know I often seem like an idiot in the forum but I don't want to sound like one in real life.
One last note on the subject: Many people have told me, and I've read it a million places online, that TORQUE is more important than HORSEPOWER on a bike. Makes sense. It's the torque that sets you back in your seat! And it's the torque that makes it so hard to hold on to the grips when you're going through the gears. But hey, everyone "looks for" horsepower gains. I sure do! Being a (former) cam grinder, I know there are different grinds for torque and horsepower for the same cam and/or engine. Myself, I like torque!
I know, I know, my opinions are best left unposted.
|02-27-2009 05:33 PM|
Originally Posted by SuedeGopher View Post
|02-27-2009 05:24 PM|
|SuedeGopher||97 at the wheel per the dyno, I think he was estimating magic land mfg horsepower ratings.|
|02-27-2009 05:20 PM|
wait.... you lost 20 horse's somewhere in a couple of post's... i am confused... 117 or 97????
|02-27-2009 05:11 PM|
I think I'm picking up what you're putting down - sometimes it stuggles even with the air-bypass knob out (though you're correct in that when warm, first time no problem). I guess my only real concern is wearing out the starter, but if that's not the issue, golden.
At any rate, 97 HP per the dyno and he said it tracked through all 7 runs just about as optimally as possible. I guess per rd's post above, his idea was to make sure the air/fuel mixture was optimal for flat out rather than look at modifying it for my riding which is typically less than a 1/4 throttle (honestly, 1/2 throttle's when I get up on it, most of the time I can't tell much of a difference between 1/2 and full anyway). Though I suppose I don't know if the PCIII is smart enough to look at throttle position in that way (my only complaint is that it feels a bit anemic between 3k and 4k when using about 1/4 throttle). Anyway, fun expirement, $50 of gift card used.
|02-27-2009 03:34 PM|
Change the cell values on the actual map, but per the original poster he was adding fuel to the low end to help with the presumably cold starting issue.
I advise against that as well.
The 919 is equipped with an air-bypass knob (most would call it a choke) to temporarily enrichen the mixture upon start-up. That knob should only be used for about 5-10 seconds btw.
As engine temp heats up on any engine including carbeurated models the mixture automatically enrichens due to the heat. A properly jetted bike with carbs will be a little hard to start when the engine is cold, but will start easily when warm.
To further add to that the 3D mapping on the fuel injected 919 actually runs slightly richer until it gets up to a proper operating temp to aid in warm up process. It is just the initital cold start up that sometimes requires the air-bypass to be used
|02-27-2009 03:25 PM|
sooo to richen it on the upper instead of using the buttons what would the proper method be??
|02-27-2009 03:24 PM|
Never use the buttons!
Especially on a map that I made like the Sato map...
When you use the buttons it completely defeats the entire purpose of having custom values in each cell of the map. (which is why the new PC-V doesn't even have the buttons on it)
Make your changes with the software only and save them as new maps so you can always revert back if you need to.
|02-27-2009 03:20 PM|
with the ignition turned off press and hold all 3 buttons on the pc3 down and then turn the ignition on.... it should put the led's in the center position.... then to increase the fuel press the corresponding button and it will go up...
to decrease press and hold the corresponding button... then i usually wait for about 15 seconds and you will see the led's drop to the bottom... then crank the engine and enjoy... repeat if necessary....
|02-27-2009 02:14 PM|
So the shop ran it - he said the power band was smooth all the way through and he didn't think it would be worth it to me to spend the time to eek out more (as he put it, I wouldn't feel any differences). Total $50 for the dyno time, said it's making 117 hp? I'll have to look at what he's got...cause it all sounds weird...like he didn't even want the business?
On a side note, people mentioned adding a few bars to the low end for the starting issue - I fired up Power Commander for the second time last night to back-up the Kyle Racing Sato map currently in there and wasn't sure what to do from there to richen it up a bit. Help is appreciated!
|02-24-2009 05:48 PM|
|SuedeGopher||Haven't found much info on the boards that wasn't positive...but it wall all brief. The best tuner went out of business not too long ago... Fingers crossed.|
|02-24-2009 05:41 PM|
don't forget to post the before and afters... puhlease
|02-24-2009 05:37 PM|
Well depends, a good tune can take several hours.
Many places charge a flat rate between $200 and $300.
Is it a authorized dynojet place that will simply tune to A/F or is it a well known, experienced tuner that will give you a real world tune.
Ask around on the local boards and g/l.
|02-24-2009 05:32 PM|
How much for dyno tuning?
Found a shop willing to do it for $75 an hour. They do the PCIII...seems reasonable for my SATO'd 919... yes/no?