It took less than a minute to come to the realization the needlenose-swearing-throwing-drinking method of throttle cable replacement was not for me and that Honda had gone to great lengths to make this modern bike look naked. I broke out the manual and followed along. The air box and throttle bodies had to come out the left side of the bike as a unit and then separated. Once I resigned myself to go ahead and unplug everything - injectors, fuel rail, etc. the job went smoothly. The cable ends attached surprisingly easily.
I used a tire tool between air box and frame to ever so gently persuade the boots back onto the intake spigots.
With the new-found adjustment I needed, I tweaked the bars slightly to offer a bit more sweep. I also installed 1" risers. Next, now I have to tidy up all the rig jobs around the bars. (left) The bar-mount hardware that came with my windshield was ugly and cumbersome and had to go. (center) The stylish black anodized Moose Racing hand guard brackets came with a nice slot. Hummm, I thought. (right) I "MacGyvered" 3/8" shaft collars with studs to replace the set screws to hold the windshield rods. It is now lighter and cleaner looking.
I also made new extensions for the hand guards out of 1" x 1/4" aluminum.
There's still more to do before a proper test ride but the grip position seems greatly improved.
. . . . . and man cave time is always a good thing.
Oh yeah, while I had it out, I took a few shots of the trick I pulled on the battery so I could hang more stuff on the terminals. I spun the battery around in the air box and used a strap covered in 4 layers of shrink tube to make it easier to connect power to my accessories.
A section of shrink tube held in place by zip ties covers the new positive terminal.
Here are the 15a push-button circuit breakers clamped to the frame that send power to my heated glove and jacket controllers. I can reach the buttons without removing the side cover.