KLR650 RT Case Gasket blown again. - Wrist Twisters
 
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post #1 of 10 Old 09-01-2008, 12:46 PM Thread Starter
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KLR650 RT Case Gasket blown again.

I was servicing my KLR today when I noticed(for the second time) the oil on the right front side of the engine and cylinder. Inspection reveals that the case gasket once agin(yes, agin!) has blown in the identical manner as previously. At the forwrd down slope of the case, the gsket is spit and sticking up and out of the interface area leaving a gsket wide slot going straight into the oil cavity. The case is now free breathing(sucks!) I performed the repair the first time noticing that there was no gasket goop in place and figured I'd do the same. I'm thinking three things:
1) The surface mating at this particular point is not of even surfaces.

2) I ride the bike alot in the upper rpm range and might be producing excess case pressure.

3) I'm supposed to have crank ventilation and it's clogged.

The job is not as easy as pulling a side case and slopping on a new gasket. The water pump linkage has to be pulled and the water pump seals need to be replaced at the time.

I was going to treat her with some nice Repsol, but the bitch is gonna get crap oil until I can sit and re-do the freakin problem.

Educated suggestions on a sure cure?

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post #2 of 10 Old 09-01-2008, 01:03 PM
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This is the new KLR?
Tough Luck! That sucks regardless.
Not a warranty issue?

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post #3 of 10 Old 09-01-2008, 01:07 PM Thread Starter
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Mine is a 2005 with 16,000 miles.

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post #4 of 10 Old 09-01-2008, 01:09 PM
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PCV mod may help. Check the surfaces for true. Goop is necessary upon repair.

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post #5 of 10 Old 09-01-2008, 01:15 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RC51_CBRXX View Post
PCV mod may help. Check the surfaces for true. Goop is necessary upon repair.
PCV Mod? Any pat mods or is this kludge all the way?

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post #6 of 10 Old 09-01-2008, 01:41 PM
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Just did it to my restoration project. Worked well...

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post #7 of 10 Old 09-01-2008, 02:38 PM
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Borrowed from the KLR forum:

Quote:
In preparation for the new rings I fitted a PCV while in town today. Took the pipe off the bike and walked around Auto Zone with it until I found one that was a good fit.

Auto Zone part# PCV1175 (PC272)

Just cut the pipe and join it back together with the PCV. It doesn't make any noise.
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File Type: jpg PCV1.jpg (100.6 KB, 11 views)
File Type: jpg PCV2.jpg (89.2 KB, 11 views)

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post #8 of 10 Old 09-01-2008, 03:09 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ridge View Post
Borrowed from the KLR forum:
Well, this begs the question. Is the crank bypassed right into the airbox? And if so, How could I have built up any pressure? There has got to be something I'm missing.

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post #9 of 10 Old 09-21-2008, 09:11 PM
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I'm way late on this topic...but anyway.

Anyone that works on their bike themselves, believe it or not, one of the best things you can have is a granite "surface plate". They are 2-4" thick granite blocks, from 12x12" up to much larger sizes. The smaller sizes...18x18 and smaller are quite affordable. They are usually flat to within less than .001" from end to end.
I glue good quality, 220 grit, water proof emery cloth/sandpaper to the top of the block, oil it down with some wd40, and use this setup to "lap" engine covers and any part with a machined gasket surface. Works wonders on vintage engines. You can spot high/low spots immediately. I never have to use any sealant on any gasket in the entire 40 year old engines I build.

This process makes the gasket surfaces absolutely flat, so they grip the gasket as evenly as possible all around the perimeter.

Check sizes and prices here:
http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INPDFF?P...MITEM=640-0120

Bear in mind the shipping, they are quite heavy.
JohnnyB

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post #10 of 10 Old 09-22-2008, 07:17 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnnyB View Post
I'm way late on this topic...but anyway.


Ya, thanks for nuthin' ya chicken choker.

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