Do the DOO! - Wrist Twisters
 
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post #1 of 28 Old 04-13-2008, 06:38 PM Thread Starter
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Do the DOO!

Doo is done.

Anyone ever tells you it's easy.
They lie.
Punch them in the nose.

Must have the tools, no 2 ways about that.
I used an impact twice.
The gaskets needed to be replaced and I suggest you have a Dremel on standby with a wire brush attachment to clean up the gasket residue.

Anyway, it's done.

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post #2 of 28 Old 04-13-2008, 06:44 PM
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how long did it take?

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post #3 of 28 Old 04-13-2008, 06:50 PM
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It will be a good feeling knowing the DOO is now bulletproof.

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post #4 of 28 Old 04-13-2008, 07:43 PM Thread Starter
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about 5 hours.
Be prepared to change the oil. Drain the oil first.
Removing the crank bolt took the impact. Using the bolt puller to remove the other part (too tired to look up the actual name) also took the impact.

Label the bolts and draw a diagram.
I also installed the fuse block and wired up another 12v power receptacle so two 12v dc and the fog lights are fused and the battery is much more organized. Thought about installing a relay but didn't today, easy enough to do later.
All told, between eating, peeing and letting my daughter help I've been working on the bike about 12 hours today.

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post #5 of 28 Old 04-13-2008, 07:56 PM
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Sounds like I need to just slot out a day and lock myself in the garage.

I am hosting a tech day in a couple of weeks. Maybe I can sit back and watch someone w/ prior experience do mine.

Nah, I'll doo it myself. I'd never feel right if I didn't.

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post #6 of 28 Old 04-13-2008, 08:11 PM Thread Starter
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second time around I'd be twice as fast. Cleaning off the old gasket was the most tedious part. Without the impact to remove the bolt and that other thing I would've been screwed.

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post #7 of 28 Old 04-14-2008, 05:54 AM
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so what exactly is the doo???

+ $5

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post #8 of 28 Old 04-14-2008, 06:11 AM
 
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wtf?

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post #9 of 28 Old 04-14-2008, 06:17 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eazy e View Post
so what exactly is the doo???
Quote:
Originally Posted by silver1 View Post
wtf?
http://klr6500.tripod.com/doohickey.htm

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post #10 of 28 Old 04-14-2008, 06:18 AM
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The Doohickey (Doo) is the unofficial name for the countershaft idler adjustment lever on the KLR650. This has been known to be the Achilles heel of the KLR although Kawasaki has never officially acknowledged a problem with it. The '07 and prior models of the KLR were fitted with a weaker version of the stock doo and after only a few adjustments the spring it is atached to loses tension and the part fails to work as intended. This creates a situation where the doo is now likely to shatter under engine load and send metal fragments through your crankcase and transmission.

EagleMike fabricated and machined his own doo out of hardened stainless steel and upgraded the springs to retain tension even after countless adjustments. He now sells his upgrade as a kit for the new KLR owner to install. There are no known failures with his upgrade in thousands of KLRs.

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post #11 of 28 Old 04-14-2008, 06:22 AM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jetblast10 View Post
Thanks...........obviously I Flunked mind reading in High School.

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post #12 of 28 Old 04-14-2008, 06:57 AM Thread Starter
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I’m a little better rested now so I’ll fill in some details.

It’s pointless to not change the oil at the same time. The engine holds much of its resting oil in the same area you’ll be working so don’t change your oil one weekend and do the doo the next weekend. Just drain the oil, do the doo and finish the oil change. Oh, btw put catch pan under the bike while doing this procedure, oil will drip to the floor.

I did not remove the chain drive gear, no point in it. Did remove the gear cover which was the easiest part of the whole job.

When you’re removing the outer cover have a wire coat hanger handy. You’ll need it to suspend the cover so the electrical wires aren’t carrying its weight. I drew a bolt diagram and numbered each bolt so I knew where it went. Actually Miranda numbered them for me, get your own assistant.

Cover is off. The starter gears have thin washers. One of mine actually came off before I had the cover fully removed and it was magnetically attracted to the outer cover, took me a second to realize where it went. Give yourself a large work space with a spread out newspaper and place the parts in a manner that makes sense to you.

The rotor bolt was really torqued down tight, would’ve taken a big leverage bar to budge it. I used the footrest to hold the tool in place. After I realized it was requiring way too much energy to remove the bolt by hand I fired up the compressor and used an impact gun and standard (non impact) 19mm socket. I feared the socket would split but wasn’t going to run to Sears unless I had to so I went for it. It lived and the bolt came out counterclockwise without much fuss.

Using the threaded puller was straightforward. After you’ve removed the main bolt just lube up the end of the puller bolt and thread it into the rotor. Again, monumental force is required to budge the rotor, you’re threading clockwise here, so I went back to the impact – whoosh and it was off.

The rest of the directions at http://klr6500.tripod.com/doohickey.htm were spot on.
Have a bunch of paper towels ready.
Oh, here’s a tip, that rotor you pulled off with the bolt puller, on the inside where there’s oil and (no doubt) some debris, the inside lip is razor sharp so when you’re cleaning it out with paper towels don’t slice the tip of your finger off and fill it with blood. Mmmmkay? Get it? Good. btw, kids repeat your cuss words, no matter how vile the words are.

A Dremel with a wire brush is good for removing gasket material, this took me a while because my cordless Dremel kept needing a recharge.

Also, watch the alignment dowels. They could fall out and roll under your car. There are two that align the inner cover and two that align the outer cover.

***error edit***When reinstalling the rotor bolt your torque wrench should be capable of 87 foot pounds. Thanks to Eaglemike for pointing this out.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Eaglemike
The proper torque for the rotor bolt is 130 ft-lbs for the 1996 and later, 144 ft-lbs for the 2008. Some of the earlier bikes (1987 to 1995 need less, but it's an individual case basis.

BUT when tightening the case bolts you need it set to 6 foot pounds or 72 inch pounds.
I had to use 2 different torque wrenches because neither was able to do such heavy and light work. Work a crisscross pattern when tightening the case bolts.

I used a gasket dressing made by Permatex from the local auto parts shop and spread it very thin over all four mating surfaces.

In retrospect it wasn’t difficult, just be methodical. I could probably do it a second time in less than a couple hours. First time is always an exploration.

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post #13 of 28 Old 04-14-2008, 07:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jetblast10 View Post
Oh, here’s a tip, that rotor you pulled off with the bolt puller, on the inside where there’s oil and (no doubt) some debris, the inside lip is razor sharp so when you’re cleaning it out with paper towels don’t slice the tip of your finger off and fill it with blood. Mmmmkay? Get it? Good.
Personal experience with this one?

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post #14 of 28 Old 04-14-2008, 07:23 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ridge View Post
Personal experience with this one?


So a 1.25" socket won't work in place of the Doo wrench?
yes, right to the bone. The neighbors are now leery of me and Miranda knows a few new words that she'd best not repeat in school.



no, it must be a wrench because you have to hold the rotor in place while removing the rotor bolt.

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post #15 of 28 Old 04-14-2008, 07:32 AM
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You think this would work in place of the Doo wrench?

Quote:
3/8" Drive #10169: 1 1/4" Crows foot
Attached Images
File Type: jpg crow's foot wrench.jpg (60.1 KB, 0 views)

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post #16 of 28 Old 04-14-2008, 07:32 AM
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Nice informative write-up. Will you be sharing it with the KLR forum?

Side note: Ever think of making your own gaskets? It's not all that difficult. The only special tools needed are a good set of hole punches.

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post #17 of 28 Old 04-14-2008, 07:37 AM Thread Starter
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I read somewhere that there's not enough clearance with a crow's foot.
It would be frustrating to get that far into the job just to find it doesn't work.

Even the "official" tool I used required some careful fine placement to be right on the mark. If you plan on not using an impact and just using leverage you'll need an assistant to keep the tool lined up. It really does require a tremendous amount of force, more than enough to move the whole bike around or even off an unsecure stand.

I couldn't suggest doing it without the proper tools.

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post #18 of 28 Old 04-14-2008, 07:40 AM
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Yep, seems I'll have to find a local source with some tools I can borrow.

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post #19 of 28 Old 04-14-2008, 08:20 AM
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i would normally consider this thread useful and worthwhile but well, owning the DR just makes this a blatant $5 post

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post #20 of 28 Old 04-14-2008, 08:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ratdog View Post
i would normally consider this thread useful and worthwhile but well, owning the DR just makes this a blatant $5 post
But would you ride the DR on a 3,000 mile trek across five states loaded w/ gear?

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post #21 of 28 Old 04-14-2008, 08:23 AM
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Hmmm...

How do I get mind done now?

It's better to have loved and lost than live with the psycho for life!
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post #22 of 28 Old 04-14-2008, 08:29 AM Thread Starter
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pay someone to do it for you. A dealership with a trusted mechanic might be your best bet.

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post #23 of 28 Old 04-14-2008, 08:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jetblast10 View Post
pay someone to do it for you. A dealership with a trusted mechanic might be your best bet.
Sadly, the place I got mine, didn't know about the DOO. Seriously. I told them I'd buy the kit with tool and let them keep the tool.

It's better to have loved and lost than live with the psycho for life!
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post #24 of 28 Old 04-14-2008, 09:08 AM Thread Starter
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Well, one option is don't worry about it for this trip. I don't get the feeling that it's a "HOLY CRAP I HAVE TO GET THIS DONE NOW OR THE WORLD WILL END" kind of problem. Yes, it should be done at some point but I don't know that the immediate urgency needs to be there.

Weren't you taking the bike to Cali after the trip?
Eagle Mike is in San Diego, where's that in relation to where you're going?

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post #25 of 28 Old 04-14-2008, 09:12 AM
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With the small amount of mileage your bike will have on it, I'd say you will be fine.

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post #26 of 28 Old 04-14-2008, 09:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jetblast10 View Post
Well, one option is don't worry about it for this trip. I don't get the feeling that it's a "HOLY CRAP I HAVE TO GET THIS DONE NOW OR THE WORLD WILL END" kind of problem. Yes, it should be done at some point but I don't know that the immediate urgency needs to be there.

Weren't you taking the bike to Cali after the trip?
Eagle Mike is in San Diego, where's that in relation to where you're going?
It's about 1.5 hours south of LA. I'm actually planning on leaving it in east LA? Wonder how long it will last?


Quote:
Originally Posted by Ridge View Post
With the small amount of mileage your bike will have on it, I'd say you will be fine.
That's my thinking.

It's better to have loved and lost than live with the psycho for life!
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post #27 of 28 Old 04-14-2008, 09:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ridge View Post
But would you ride the DR on a 3,000 mile trek across five states loaded w/ gear?
don't think i haven't been thinking about exactly that...and i did buy one of these just in case i pull the trigger

thing is, i'm a big guy, so i might be better off w/ a tiger or bwm or something...but yeah, i've thought about it but doin' it?? i dunno and i reckon there's only one way to find out

[/end dr-hijack]

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post #28 of 28 Old 04-14-2008, 10:00 AM Thread Starter
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edited my original post based on Eaglemike's feedback.


***error edit***When reinstalling the rotor bolt your torque wrench should be capable of 87 foot pounds.

Thanks to Eaglemike for pointing this out.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Eaglemike View Post
The proper torque for the rotor bolt is 130 ft-lbs for the 1996 and later, 144 ft-lbs for the 2008. Some of the earlier bikes (1987 to 1995 need less, but it's an individual case basis.

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