mcromo44, 1 are you saying that all this stud changing has been an overkill activity? 2 Or just good practice to change them out because you never know what the PO has done to them? 3 Do they show stress from over torqueing? 4 How will I be able to tell if they have not been abused and can be re used? RB
Very bad practice if not needed, as time and money is wasted plus risk of botching a removal from the upper case half.
If threads are good and they "build torque" as measured by a torque wrench, they are OK.
(Build torque means the measured torque reads as increasing with more wrench movement.)
Not building torque can mean threads ,stud, or case threading all in terms of prior damage.
Most important is to know the engine history, but for a 40 year old engine that will be more a rarity.
Visually examine the parts.
Check the nut on stud thread feel re clearance, unloaded that is.
Make sure the washers being used are correct parts and not low grade substitutions perhaps butchered on a grinder to make fit.
Do a dummy build with no rings, no gaskets, check the torque build characteristic.
IF stud changes are needed, use OEM studs for stock builds and low power builds.
Studs are not an issue unless it is a high power race build for racing (high power build actually generating high power that can't be replicated by road use)
Hope this helps you, keeping in mind I don't know your particulars.
Also, there was a head gasket change in the K4 production run and see TSB # 39 of Feb 74. They went to latex coated. Early stuff was not coated at all, all my work was with uncoated gaskets.
If you plan to use it hard, consider the revised shift drum per TSB # 40 of April 74. I think this was the fix for the tranny's that were susceptible to popping out of 4th under certain conditions. There was a interim fix that involved a deposit of braze on the internal shift linkage. My bike was one of them treated that way. Looking back, I think that rider technique, or rather - lack of, had much to do with it.