CB350 Electrical issue. - Wrist Twisters
 
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post #1 of 7 Old 06-23-2012, 08:43 PM Thread Starter
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CB350 Electrical issue.

Hey dudes. My 1971 Honda CB350 Twin has developed a... curious habit. For some reason, the turn signals blink all simultaneously.

Example: Turn the signal switch to activate the left indicator, the Left rear shines brightly, right rear slightly less so, and both fronts barely light at all. Same thing if the right was turned on; Bright right rear, slightly less left, barely any front.

I'm frankly staggered. Dad and I both used the wiring diagram in the Haynes manual because the hick farmer I bought it from did a lot of bodge job wiring on it. It's all fixed and everything works, except the signals.

Any ideas?

"Reason is not automatic. Those who deny it cannot be conquered by it" ~ Ayn Rand
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post #2 of 7 Old 06-23-2012, 09:03 PM
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You've got a short somewhere that's leaking current across both left and right circuits. I would start by unplugging the switch and connecting the wires manually to activate the signals, sounds like the switch is bad. If they still do it then you can start to trace the wires around and isolate where the short is. Could be anything from bad insulation to corrosion in the bulb sockets that's causing the short.

Erik
2005 Honda 919

I've got a lot of places to see! (on the bike) :-)
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post #3 of 7 Old 06-24-2012, 07:27 AM
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I suggest you check the left side handlebar pod.
There could be some bridging inside.
Particularly so if the bike was ever dropped.
I think the 71 had the wires routed inside the bar, like my CB750.
A get off would often shear off the wires at the bar wire hole.
One would then take off the pod, open it up, take apart, unsolder the clipped off end, then resolder the ends of the remaining wire back to the terminals on the cluster. Poor or unskilled workmanship would easily cause subsequent grief re electrical gremlins.
By the way, an old trick to get rid of the wire shear scenario, was to file or grind out a groove into the pod metal where it clamps to the bar. Just large enough for the wire bundle to be rerouted through it, so the wire bundle was outside of the bar

The 71 350 was a nice bike, last year of the hotter cams era, just like the 750. The 72 350 got the disc brake on the front, but was slow in comparison.

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post #4 of 7 Old 06-24-2012, 07:55 PM Thread Starter
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Good thing I have a secondary switch pod I can try out. Crikey it's a pain getting the wires into the bar though.

"Reason is not automatic. Those who deny it cannot be conquered by it" ~ Ayn Rand
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post #5 of 7 Old 06-25-2012, 05:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrhonda1987 View Post
Crikey it's a pain getting the wires into the bar though.
That is an understatement.
Try taping the ends forward so none can fold back and take up space that does not exist.
WD40 helps.

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post #6 of 7 Old 07-02-2012, 10:51 PM Thread Starter
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Update! After some more searching, both switch pods determine to be in good shape. I guess once this damn heat dies off, I'll re-check every connection.

"Reason is not automatic. Those who deny it cannot be conquered by it" ~ Ayn Rand
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post #7 of 7 Old 09-28-2012, 07:40 PM
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I've had some older Hondas, the flasher relay is usually the problem with blinkers.
It's the easiest and cheapest thing to check, go to the auto parts store and buy a 2 blade flasher relay and plug it in. If that's the problem it'll be solved .
Next, open up the headlight bucket , check all the green wires at and in the plug and on the headlight mount bolts. The directional lights also have a ground wire,and that should be checked. Take off a lense and remove light bulb check for rust. That takes care of the visual part.
Multimeter time.Now that everything is open and accessable .set it for ohmns, cross the red and black to make sure the meter is working, now you can check some wires find a lt. blue wire, for one side of directionals , find both ends of the same wire and check it, if it's good go to the next lt. blue until satisfied. Orange should be the other directionals,trace and check those.You are looking for broken wires that won't carry current from one end to the other end . Do the same with the ground wires (green).
You can do the same thing with the wires going through the bars without removing the wires, just open the pods and check both ends of the wires.
If you think there is a dead short in the bars , energize the system, use a test light, ground it, touch the bars with the probe end , if it lights up , it's a dead short and you may have to remove the wires from the bars,in which case,shoot some wd down the bar ,remove wire ends from bucket , push the ends into the hole then pull gently feed it ,pull it,feed it ,pull it. Fix the trouble and slide a single 12 or 14 guage wire up the center of the bar to the control pods hole , feed it through about 10 inches , straighten out your wire and tape them to the single wire, wd again and slide them down the hole and catch them on the other side. easy peasy. be sure all the wires in the bucket are plugged in securely and correctly, test unit, then button it up. cake!

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