Winter Repair Question - Wrist Twisters
 
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post #1 of 17 Old 11-06-2008, 06:31 AM Thread Starter
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Winter Repair Question

The weather forecast for the next 10 days is looking pretty crappy so I'm thinking about going ahead and starting my 'I just bought it and want to go through it mechanically as well as fix a couple things and clean it well' winter cleaning.

Things I'd like to fix....
1 - Left side of the tank has about a quarter sized dent and scratches from lightly laying down by previous owner
2 - Rectifier/Alternator/Generator (whatever it actually is) cover has light scuffs from same incident
3 - Put a new set of Pilot Power tire on it

Things I want to check/do...
1 - Both front and rear wheel bearings
2 - Grease any joints that need it

Is there anything else I should do mechanically while I've got it off the ground with both wheels off? This is my first streetbike that I've done this to and I pretty well used and abused my dirtbikes and want to take better care of this one since it has much more value.

My question about the body work/paint is this...I've called our local Honda dealer and he says in the 30 years he's been a parts guy for Honda he cannot order factory paint. He also told me that even though I gave him the color codes, all that anyone can do is order parts by that color code. According to him, even an auto/motorcycle paint supply store cannot mix paint based on these numbers.

So...can anyone here get it or know where I can? I'm looking for the 03 flat black for the tank and the silver engine paint. I can provide codes if needed.

I'd also like to black out the headlight rim, headlight and windscreen brackets, grabbar, and rearsets. Any suggestions on prep work or rattle can paint that matches the 03 Asphalt well?

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post #2 of 17 Old 11-06-2008, 06:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cmurphy84 View Post
Is there anything else I should do mechanically while I've got it off the ground with both wheels off?
)SS brake lines (although you don't have to remove the wheels)
)If wornout? new chain/sprockets
)0.75kg front springs and thicker oil

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post #3 of 17 Old 11-06-2008, 08:58 AM
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you can take it to a good paint shop and they can scope it and match you paint very well. thats if you dont mind some time. get a good deadacated guy. when my dad had the new cover painted for for the 05 comemrative viper it took 3.5 weeks to get just the white right and the same to get the blue right. but it is a perfect match. right flake and gloss.

2007 CB919 37 mi Aug 20 2008
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post #4 of 17 Old 11-06-2008, 09:01 AM
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You can order factory colors from colorrite.com

http://www.colorrite.com/matrix-colo...TOKEN=32052558

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post #5 of 17 Old 11-06-2008, 10:03 AM
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Suggestions:

Replace the fork springs and oil. Probably pretty inexpensive. Call Race Tec, or maybe Dan Kyle. They can lead you in the right direction. While you're at it, respring the rear also. I have a shop manual. I'd be glad to pitch in.

While we're at it, we could throw on a new handlebar and brake lines.

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post #6 of 17 Old 11-06-2008, 10:59 AM Thread Starter
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Should I replace the springs or try to find some '04+ forks? Also, I'll be doing this on a limited budget so will only be able to do what I can afford.

ColorRite really likes their paint. For the Asphalt color they want $34 for a spray can and $84 for 1/2 pint.

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post #7 of 17 Old 11-06-2008, 12:21 PM
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Yup but its dead nuts on...least the red is.

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post #8 of 17 Old 11-06-2008, 03:55 PM
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Might as well check:
-steering head bearings
-chain wear, sprocket wear
-swing arm bearing
-fork seals

I would also take the opportunity to make sure your front end is not under tension - some bikes come from the factory with tension in the forks because of slight misalignments in the triple clamp, over-tightening the axle, or incorrect torquing sequence of the axle and pinch bolts. When I work on my front wheel, I usually take the opportunity to make sure the pinch bolts on the triple clamp and fork lowers are tightened to factory specs and in the correct order. (The correct sequence is even more important than the correct torque. There is a pdf version of the factory shop manual available online. Search the forums and download it if you haven't already.)

That's not bad for color-matched paint... I used to work in a bike shop and some of the paint we bought to color-match a crashed Victory was $150/quart.

This is the method I now use for taking a wheel off (after almost having a BMW LT1200 fall off a milk crate and onto me): if you don't have a centerstand, it's often easier to hang the bike from the ceiling than it is to balance it on blocks. Strap a 3"-wide ratchet strap around the triple clamp, attach the other end to the ceiling, and crank away until the front wheel comes off the ground. The real advantage over propping wooden blocks under your engine is that you can't knock the bike over. You can also work on your forks really easily with this set-up.

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post #9 of 17 Old 11-06-2008, 04:09 PM
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As for the engine paint" Rustoleum dark metallic HAMMERD paint matches perfectly to OEM as long as you apply light coats to prevent the "hammered" appearance." Quoted fishfilet300

-Mark-
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post #10 of 17 Old 11-06-2008, 05:42 PM
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I paid $32 shipped (what a rip!) or thereabouts for a fingernail polish sized bottle of 02 asphalt from colorrite. Eh, so-so. I can tell its different but better than the bare metal of before. The damn brush in the cap broke off instantly too. $32

What is with the wheel bearings? They bad already? They are sealed so any grease is just superficial.

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post #11 of 17 Old 11-06-2008, 05:49 PM
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i don't know about the dealership there but here i can get that left side cover for under 50$..... cheaper than paint... you might find it cheaper to just repaint the whole tank and tail plastics... then you just need to get close with the paint... my .02



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post #12 of 17 Old 11-07-2008, 04:31 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bryce919er View Post
What is with the wheel bearings? They bad already? They are sealed so any grease is just superficial.
I have no problems with the bearings that I'm aware of. However, I do not know how the bike was treated or maintained for the first 16,000 miles of it's life so I would rather do a slight tear down/rebuild during the winter months to 1) know the bike better and 2) feel more confident that when spring rolls around and I've got riding fever that the bike will be ready for a 500 mile ride on day one.

Quote:
Originally Posted by barton664 View Post
i don't know about the dealership there but here i can get that left side cover for under 50$..... cheaper than paint... you might find it cheaper to just repaint the whole tank and tail plastics... then you just need to get close with the paint... my .02
I had thought about just replacing the cover, fixing my current one as a spare, and repainting the bike with some similar color from the local PPG paint shop. My only reservation there is finding the decals. I've searched for them and have not been very lucky finding them. Then once I come up with some, I'm afraid I'll place them incorrectly and it will look wrong. The decals are on top of the matte clear coat...right?

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post #13 of 17 Old 11-07-2008, 05:31 AM
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Spend a little time and clean up your calipers and brake pistons if they appear to be full of crap.. A childs toothbrush and some brake fluid is what I use. Spin the pistons in their bore with a soft jawed plier in order to get at the tight areas.

Doc



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post #14 of 17 Old 11-07-2008, 08:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cmurphy84 View Post
The decals are on top of the matte clear coat...right?
The tank decals are clear (or in the 02-03 case, matte) coated over so you cant remove those without messing the tank. The tail decals are just stickers sitting right on top that you can take on/off no problem is my understanding.

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post #15 of 17 Old 11-08-2008, 06:24 AM
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Depending where you live you can get decals custom made. I had some made for mine. Black with a silver outline. I got two full sets. Cost me about $70 if I remember right. One color would have been a little cheeper. I made the mistake of putting them on over the clear. Next time I would clear over them so they last longer.

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post #16 of 17 Old 11-09-2008, 06:29 PM
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Wheel bearings

It takes about 30 seconds to check wheel bearings. It should be done everytime you take a wheel off.
Put your finger in the center of the bearing and turn back and forth, feeling for roughness. Now peace of mind.

[
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post #17 of 17 Old 11-09-2008, 07:52 PM
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I did the hammered paint, It wasn't good enough to justify not spending $50 on a new part!

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