pull the wheel run to dealer (any) they should have special tool to do it that make it really easy, but with out.... kinda sux. they might even let you borrow for a night. you can buy your own parts unlimited one, but unless you do a bunch not really worth it. unless dealer charges you more than 60 bucks to do it.
The first I noticed it, I was going over the Ohio bridge into Ky. I thought it was just some seams in the pavement, because that's what it feels like. At low speeds, the bike feels slightly unstable. Wiggles a bit when it shouldn't. When I heard the rear end click when I made a right hand turn at a light, I knew what it was, tho I didn't want to believe it. I had to limp home, 80 miles. When I took it apart, I was running on 8 balls. No damage.
The good bearing was easy to pop out. The ruined one was on the right side. The center fell out leaving the outer ring still in the hub. It could not be driven out. I took a Dremel and carefully ground a notch completely thru it. It was then pried out.
I went to "Tri State Bearing" in town. Told them what I was going to put the bearings into. I got 2 bearings, the dust seal the O-ring, for $25. The mechanic at UPS will put them in for me tonight. Installation is going to be left to a pro.
My question is what casued the bearing to get fried? Usually it's the result of a the axel bolt being overtighten or a spacer being left out or improperly installed. I'd find out that so it doesn't happen again. Sounds like this one has been shot for a while, since it fell apart.
I was also wondering why it failed. I am always a likely suspect when something Honda builds, breaks. The owners manual says tighten it to 69 ft lbs. That's pretty snug. Altho I don't have a 1/2 in drive torque wrench, I'd say what I tighten to is in the ball park. I rarely ride in the rain. Always careful about keeping both sides of the adjusters the same. I have a 929 with 38k miles on it, no problems. If anyone has ideas, I'm interested.
Mine went out at 21963 not as bad as yours though I was adjusting the chain and noticed the play.Did it again at 36350 and bought a good torque wench that time... pushing 55982 now and no problem.I ride in the rain though ,that might add to it also.
I had Marty press the bearings in last evening. The bike is whole again. It was down 1 day and cost less than $30, and that includes fuel. Counting the trip into town, it probably took 3 hours. Sure beats what a shop would have done.
As a lifetime mechanic, I've had to deal with quite a number of failed bearings, and can say that a bearing fail when it fails, and while there is often obvious cause such as installation damage or water, a small percentage of the time it just wears out. One thing to check is the length of the spacer between the bearings: it should hold the bearing center race such that the outer race doesn't quite seat on the shoulder of the register machined in the wheel. If the spacer is too short either due to inaccurate machining or a grossly overtighted axle, the outer races will bottom out in the wheel before the center races contact the spacer, causing significant loading of the races and balls when the axle is tightened and premature wear/failure. When installing the bearings, I drive both the races with a flat driver until they seat while backing up the other bearing similarly, then check the spacer -- if it is loose between the bearings it's too short and must be shimmed or replaced with a slightly longer one.
By the way: if you are trying to remove a bearing when it has fallen apart, reinstall the center race and fit as many of the remaining balls as you can, distributing them as evenly as possible around the races (a thick blob of heavy grease will hold them in place). This usually distributes the load sufficiently to drive both races out at the same time. Remember to give the bearing just a couple hits, then check to be sure it's coming out straight. If not, at least there is now a gap you can get a long drift to catch on to drive the outer race out.