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post #1 of 47 Old 03-28-2012, 11:46 AM Thread Starter
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whats you mileage?

what do you get around the city and also on pure highway? so far ive reached 135 mpg in city but havent gone long distance to know the latter mpg... also what idle are you currently set on? i know what the manual say but am wondering what your preference is? mine was set to 1100 ..after i slid my bike it was about 1200 so i lowered it again

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post #2 of 47 Old 03-28-2012, 11:51 AM
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135 mpg?!?!?!? and in the city?!?!?!? sounds like a 5.2 gallon claim to me.... PAGING G00GL3IT!!!

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post #3 of 47 Old 03-28-2012, 12:23 PM
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135 mpg. What exactly are you riding. My Harley with a cammed 106 with performance heads gets 40ish mpg and the Honda 750vt gets 60mpg.
Are you riding a 250 or something?

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post #4 of 47 Old 03-28-2012, 12:26 PM
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Sure you didn't mean miles per TANK?

The furthest 5.2 gallons ever got me was about 172 miles . (well, that was the reserve, I didn't go all the way empty, so I truly don't know).

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post #5 of 47 Old 03-28-2012, 12:28 PM
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if you mean miles per tank then I hit about 150-160 then I'm on reserve. 80% highway and backroad miles. Getting 40 mpg. 44 is the best I've ever done, but that was when I first bought the bike and was babying it.

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post #6 of 47 Old 03-28-2012, 12:41 PM
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my light typically comes on round 130-140..

i typically average anywhere from 35-40mpg if im nice.

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post #7 of 47 Old 03-28-2012, 12:43 PM Thread Starter
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fuq me! lmao.. miles per tank.. what idle are you guys set to?

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post #8 of 47 Old 03-28-2012, 12:52 PM
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My idle is still at stock, which seems to be between 1100-1200 last I checked.

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post #9 of 47 Old 03-28-2012, 01:00 PM
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Quote:
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fuq me! lmao.. miles per tank.. what idle are you guys set to?
we knew what you meant, just givin you a bad time.

light usually comes on for me around 143-149 miles, can go to 180-200 miles before running bone dry depending on how much i flog it. this is a mix of stop/go city and freeway riding.

idle is set to ~1100 actual, 1250 indicated.

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post #10 of 47 Old 03-28-2012, 01:21 PM
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ive been playing a game at the pump lately. everytime I top off, i reset my tripmeter. when its time to fill up, I take that tanks distance and divide by 41. the other day, as i was getting ready to open the cap, i shook the bike side to side (after doing the math in my head) looked at my buddy and said "mmm... feels like 3.6 gallons" he gave a little "ppsssh" and a chuckle, I didnt say anything else. as i filled up, i made it a point to not look at the pump once, and made sure he noticed, keeping his attention with a story. when i was full, i nonchalantly hung up the pump, and said "boy, I nailed that one!" 3.617 gallons. he had this look on his face like he just saw david blain 'levitate' for the first time. I didnt say anything else about it... it was pretty funny!

so, i think it safe to say, I get 41 mpg, no matter how I ride!

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post #11 of 47 Old 03-28-2012, 02:01 PM
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My idle is set a little high I guess, I'm at 1500. Maybe I should bring it down a little.

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post #12 of 47 Old 03-28-2012, 02:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheBeeDeeGee View Post
My idle is set a little high I guess, I'm at 1500. Maybe I should bring it down a little.
FSM calls for 1200 rpm @ idle +/- 100.

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post #13 of 47 Old 03-28-2012, 02:10 PM
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I usually ride around 175 miles before I get gas. Low fuel light generally come on at about 150-160 miles. I have gone as far as 205 miles and it still only took 4.3 gallons to fill it (easy riding). I usually get around 42 MPG. As low as 33 MPG with spending the evening at the drag-way. As high as 50 MPG when I road with a very well behaved group on back roads doing around 60 MPH lol.

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post #14 of 47 Old 03-28-2012, 02:24 PM
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My light usually comes on around 130 miles, which is probably a little early, as it takes 3.75 gallons to fill it up again.

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post #15 of 47 Old 03-28-2012, 03:40 PM
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I've had the low fuel light come on at 167-205 miles depending upon how I am riding that day/ Idle @ 1,100 rpm and it has never been adjusted in 60K.

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post #16 of 47 Old 03-28-2012, 10:39 PM Thread Starter
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i did a test today to see if i could figure out what mileage id get after driving about 60 miles and and then back (120 miles total)...light came on at 117 miles! then i realized i was going 80/90mph (sometimes faster..120) at about 5200/5500 rpm the whole time. i filled up and tried another short run of 56.7 miles total at about 70 mph (4500/4700 rpm) and when i topped off i only had to put 1.65 gallons. 34 or so mpg..much better. but im under the impression that it should be more. could a loose chain cause poor mileage? ive recently purchased a new chain and sprockets since mine is loose with 2 inches or more of freeplay...and im sure its probably a bit damaged since it came off the rear sprocket when my uncle slid my bike a couple of days ago 0_o damn his cocky attitude. just waiting to get my did chain tool for my did chain. ever since the chain came off (the day of "the event") it seems as if my rpm at certain speeds are a bit higher than normal. before 70mph took 4500rpm in 6th...any relation to the chain.

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post #17 of 47 Old 03-28-2012, 10:42 PM
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A non-lubed chain will suck mileage, yes. Anywhere there is friction (in excess), you will lose mileage:

1) Sticky/rusty chain
2) Overtightened axle nut
3) Wrong brand of Oil
4) Pvsters' mouth

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post #18 of 47 Old 03-28-2012, 11:05 PM Thread Starter
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lol...pvsters mouth..check

oil brand..check..mobil1 racing 4t synth 10w-40

chain...hmmm..loose...but lubed i think..i lubed it about 300 miles ago with chain saver. not since i put it back on the rear sprocket though..also makes noise when i ride it but i always figured it was because it was slapping the swing arm which was why i originally was changing the chain and sprockets.

i actually hand tightened the axle nut after putting the chain back on and forgot to torque it after the test run but took out my trusty torque wrench a bit ago (after you mentioned it) and only had to tighten it a bit to reach 69ft lbs. about 1/10 a turn.

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post #19 of 47 Old 03-29-2012, 12:38 AM
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post #20 of 47 Old 03-29-2012, 03:18 AM
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whoa jank

bi-lingual site here, english and aussie. lol

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post #21 of 47 Old 03-29-2012, 04:06 AM
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Well first off don't run your chain so loose its slapping when you ride. Mine has 1.5 inches of slack. when I check it it will hit the pad on the swing arm, but it definitely doesn't slap when I ride. If it's slapping it must be making a shit ton of racket, if it sounds like marbles rolling around at low speeds, lube it.

I use chain saver as well, I've found the chain is noisey when it dries. Right after I spray it on it's dead quiet. Then when I ride in the morning it's "clickey" when I push it around. I'm not sure why that is, though.

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post #22 of 47 Old 03-29-2012, 06:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XxBAOxX View Post
i did a test today to see if i could figure out what mileage id get after driving about 60 miles and and then back (120 miles total)...light came on at 117 miles! then i realized i was going 80/90mph (sometimes faster..120) at about 5200/5500 rpm the whole time. i filled up and tried another short run of 56.7 miles total at about 70 mph (4500/4700 rpm) and when i topped off i only had to put 1.65 gallons. 34 or so mpg..much better. but im under the impression that it should be more.

It will be more if you slow down. 70mph is still way above the mileage break-even point. Your best mileage will probably be between 50-60, but who wants to go that slow.

That being said, you should still be higher than 34mpg even going 70. Then again, you only did 60 miles. A better test would be the 120 miles or more, out and back at a set speed, then do it again at a different speed. Be interesting to find the actual break even point.

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post #23 of 47 Old 03-29-2012, 06:21 AM Thread Starter
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i know the second test run was only half the distance but still pure highway...just took a loop back to the hometown. i assumed it would be very close to a test run at the same speed but longer distance...if not, why?

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post #24 of 47 Old 03-29-2012, 06:23 AM Thread Starter
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using phone app..no edit. but i agree. it should be more. hopefully the new chain and sprocket do a great deal more for me.

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post #25 of 47 Old 03-29-2012, 06:25 AM
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The low fuel light comes on at 160-170 range in the warm weather 150-160 in colder temps.

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post #26 of 47 Old 03-29-2012, 10:14 AM Thread Starter
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do you ride it hard or are ya easy on her? just got sea foam btw and im super excited to get home and try it out. my bike 56k miles old...she needs it

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post #27 of 47 Old 03-29-2012, 12:52 PM
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My mileage is really consistent at around 15-18km per litre, or 10-12 miles per litre, or 40-45 miles per US gallon. Towards the higher end if it's a motorway drone, lower end if it's tight and twisty. Using the mid-range, not bouncing off the limiter....

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post #28 of 47 Old 03-29-2012, 01:14 PM
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I think good addition to this question would be :
how many mile do you put on your bike annually.

If one rides less that 10k miles, fuel savings are insignificant.
Let's say you ride 10k miles and get 38mpg. google3it gets 40mpg riding the same 10k.
You are talking around $53/year difference at $4/gal. 20 years and you will save enough for Ohlins
And 10k/year is a lot of miles for most on this forum.
It's funny how some guys on TT forum that use their bikes for racing/weekend warrior and don't like the concept of using $15 thinner base gasket to increase their engine compression as it will require running on 93 premium. Yet they don't mind spending a lot of $$$ on open exhaust etc.

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post #29 of 47 Old 03-29-2012, 01:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by g00gl3it
A non-lubed chain will suck mileage, yes. Anywhere there is friction (in excess), you will lose mileage:

1) Sticky/rusty chain
2) Overtightened axle nut
3) Wrong brand of Oil
4) Pvsters' mouth
Oil has little to no affect on mileage unless you put oil that's waaaaaaay too thick in. And that will only be harder on fuel at start up. Once it's up to operating temp its fluidity is consistent.

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post #30 of 47 Old 03-29-2012, 01:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XxBAOxX
lol...pvsters mouth..check

oil brand..check..mobil1 racing 4t synth 10w-40

chain...hmmm..loose...but lubed i think..i lubed it about 300 miles ago with chain saver. not since i put it back on the rear sprocket though..also makes noise when i ride it but i always figured it was because it was slapping the swing arm which was why i originally was changing the chain and sprockets.

i actually hand tightened the axle nut after putting the chain back on and forgot to torque it after the test run but took out my trusty torque wrench a bit ago (after you mentioned it) and only had to tighten it a bit to reach 69ft lbs. about 1/10 a turn.
Mobil 1 has a name only. It's quality has significantly decreased. Every engine I have ever put it in has gotten louder because it has a thinner cushion of oil.
And every time I used any grade of mobil 1 my used oil analysis showed higher wear than a conventional oil.
Don't get me wrong,I have 100 quarts of the v-twin 20w-50 and 10w-40 mc oil. As well as about 150 quarts of both mc varieties of amsoil too.
The best bang for buck oil out there for bikes specifying 10w-40 is rotella t-6 5w-40. For the price it cannot be beat and shows great wear numbers in the uoa I have sent in. And because it's a 5w it circulates inside the motor faster,reducing wear,and less parasitic loss because of the cold flow numbers.
Rotella t-5 syn/conventional blend has more zddp in it than the t-6 does(anti-wear agent).

An oil with very high amounts of zddp is castrol defy. It's called defy because it is not conforming to the new API spec. It's being marketed as an oil for old hot rods that have flat tappet cams. I can't wait to try it.
I am doing a test this year on my Harley. I am going to use mobil 1 first,then a run on the vr-1,then amsoil,then royal purple and last will be good old pennzoil yellow bottle.
I am going to run all of them exactly 3000 miles,then drain,taking a sample for a used oil analysis. I am going to put to the test which is the best. I will start a thread and post all of the results. I expect the 2 conventionals to show better wear numbers than the synthetics.

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post #31 of 47 Old 03-29-2012, 01:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XxBAOxX
do you ride it hard or are ya easy on her? just got sea foam btw and im super excited to get home and try it out. my bike 56k miles old...she needs it
Of you want to clean out your fuel system dump half a quart of acetone in your gas. Cheaper than seafoam and cleans better. As well as a real octane booster. Trust me

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post #32 of 47 Old 03-29-2012, 01:39 PM
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HTF did this thread came to oil debates?
Freaking google3it. Erase #3 and replace it with some other body parts.

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post #33 of 47 Old 03-29-2012, 01:49 PM
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Quote:
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Trust me

hahahaha.

BAO. I'm ready to answer all your future FI light questions

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post #34 of 47 Old 03-29-2012, 02:53 PM Thread Starter
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acetone? wouldnt tear up seals or gaskets?

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post #35 of 47 Old 03-29-2012, 03:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XxBAOxX View Post
acetone? wouldnt tear up seals or gaskets?
yes, acetone EATS some types of rubber and most plastics, unless it is polypropylene.

It also eats PAINT like no other. Why do you think they use it in nail polish remover .


Maybe this could all be solved by just using the proper kind of oil.

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post #36 of 47 Old 03-29-2012, 03:03 PM Thread Starter
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ok zaq. im sure its been asked but how much fuel should there be still once the fi loght cones on.. the reserve gas i mean. is it around .2 gallons or so..a bit more?

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post #37 of 47 Old 03-29-2012, 03:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shreddin Rubber View Post
Oil has little to no affect on mileage unless you put oil that's waaaaaaay too thick in. And that will only be harder on fuel at start up. Once it's up to operating temp its fluidity is consistent.
I was being completely facetious. I was hoping someone would take the bait for an oil flame war.

Thanks for being the fish .

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post #38 of 47 Old 03-29-2012, 03:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XxBAOxX View Post
ok zaq. im sure its been asked but how much fuel should there be still once the fi loght cones on.. the reserve gas i mean. is it around .2 gallons or so..a bit more?
what? you don't want FI light to come on. FI light = FI issues. Acetone in the tank = FI light. FI light = no good. No good = issues. Issues = dollars. Dollars = no retirement savings. You don't want FI light

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post #39 of 47 Old 03-29-2012, 03:16 PM Thread Starter
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oh lol..well i misunderstood then. but still how much fuel should be in the tank when the gas light comes on?

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post #40 of 47 Old 03-29-2012, 03:20 PM Thread Starter
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btw..seafoam. 1 oz per gallon..5 shot glasses huh?

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