Thoughts on F4i Forks for $100 - Wrist Twisters
 
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post #1 of 35 Old 07-09-2010, 12:23 PM Thread Starter
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Thoughts on F4i Forks for $100

One of the fellow members gave me a shout on a set of forks from an '04 F4i. Having an 03, I was looking to get some adjustment up front. The guy wants $100 for the pair before shipping (which will probably be around $25).

New seals, heavier oil, and dealership checked them straight. Only issue is, the F4i is a stunt bike and he's switched to inverted R1 forks.

I don't have much experience in forks (internals), so some input would be great. They're usually around the $250 range for used.

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post #2 of 35 Old 07-09-2010, 12:26 PM
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Thats a good deal if they're not all ragged out and you will notice a significant difference, at least I did.

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post #3 of 35 Old 07-09-2010, 12:30 PM Thread Starter
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They're seem to be in excellent shape from the outside. No rashes or signs of being down. But it is a stunt bike...

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post #4 of 35 Old 07-09-2010, 12:39 PM
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get them. You will still have to get new springs as f4i stock springs are too light for 919 in spring rate ~.67 kg.
$100 for springs and $100 for shocks and you got yourself nice setup for $200
Don't forget to get f4i fender as 919 won't work

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post #5 of 35 Old 07-09-2010, 12:48 PM
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grab em! i grabbed a set for $109.00 shipped, but needed new fork seals. they are expensive for sure. great price.

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post #6 of 35 Old 07-09-2010, 01:06 PM
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That is a no brainer. Get those puppies. With any luck your stunter friend already put sstiffer springs in there.
Some 10 or 15wt oil will damp it nicely. You'll be happy with it no doubt!

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post #7 of 35 Old 07-09-2010, 01:12 PM
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Sounds like a screwing, gimme the guys info and I'll take care of it for you!!!!


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post #8 of 35 Old 07-09-2010, 02:00 PM Thread Starter
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I see the votes 4 yes's to 1, they'll screw you and let me buy them for you. I've never purchased something off CL I couldn't see in person, but here goes something...

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post #9 of 35 Old 07-09-2010, 02:22 PM
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Sounds like a good deal, good luck.

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post #10 of 35 Old 07-09-2010, 02:47 PM
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I ride with my stock f4i springs and they feel fine, the rear stocker sucks so until I doink with that I'll leave em alone.

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post #11 of 35 Old 07-09-2010, 03:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brian View Post
I ride with my stock f4i springs and they feel fine
that is because you have nothing to compare to.
The difference with proper springs will be very very noticeable (braking, cornering etc)

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post #12 of 35 Old 07-09-2010, 04:10 PM
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Yeah i do the stock 03 legs!

Im considering it but just bought my corbin back so my 9er budget is tapped this month.

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post #13 of 35 Old 07-09-2010, 04:12 PM
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Even with the turd stock rear suspension? I figured I wouldnt mess with the front until I could dail in the rear better.

Any logic there?

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post #14 of 35 Old 07-09-2010, 06:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brian View Post

Any logic there?
no, but as long as it works for you, that's all that matters.

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post #15 of 35 Old 07-10-2010, 07:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andrewebay1 View Post
I've never purchased something off CL I couldn't see in person, but here goes something...
Quote:
"Forks off a 04 F4i, in perfect condition. Brand new fork seals. Took off to swap to a different combination."
From his description and pics... for that price, I'd do it.
Actually, I almost did. But I put in stiffer springs a while back & since then I've concluded that if I ever choose to do more to the forks I'm going all out & doing the RC51 conversion.


Good luck!! ...& post pics when you get 'em installed

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post #16 of 35 Old 07-12-2010, 06:03 AM
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Quote:
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no, but as long as it works for you, that's all that matters.
So you're saying upgrading the front fork springs with out touching the rear shit box is a compitent thought process? And will have desired effect?

I understand swapping them out to f4i forks cause you get the comp & damp settings but if your gonna go further than that I'd think you need to pick up the slack in the rear as well to get the results, please explain if I'm off.

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post #17 of 35 Old 07-12-2010, 07:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brian View Post
So you're saying upgrading the front fork springs with out touching the rear shit box is a compitent thought process? And will have desired effect?

I understand swapping them out to f4i forks cause you get the comp & damp settings but if your gonna go further than that I'd think you need to pick up the slack in the rear as well to get the results, please explain if I'm off.
Comp and rebound adjustment option won't do you much if the spring in the fork (the main component) is way out of range. Spring is what supports you and your bike, comp/reb is there to calm the spring down. IMO, if you are going through trouble with f4i swap, you may as well make it beneficial for $100 more.
As far as rear shock goes: yes, it definitely needs to be upgraded. Unfortunately, $100 or even $300 won't help you there.

here, if you get time, look through this link. Very educational
Peter Verdone Designs - Motorcycle Springs

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post #18 of 35 Old 07-12-2010, 09:24 AM
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thanks I'll check that out here in a bit, I was thinking about going the super cheap route out back and just getting a stiffer spring on the stocker for my weight but not sure if it'll be enough of an improvement over stock. I also have the chance to get a penske for 250 but it involves cutting the frame which I'm not super excited about. don't need an ohlins as I'm just a street tooler...

Almost ate shit a second ago, damn sand.

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post #19 of 35 Old 07-12-2010, 10:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brian View Post
thanks I'll check that out here in a bit, I was thinking about going the super cheap route out back and just getting a stiffer spring on the stocker

how much do you weigh? Stock spring is ok for ~200lbs rider.

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post #20 of 35 Old 07-12-2010, 01:03 PM
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I haven't been 200lbs since middle school, 250.

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post #21 of 35 Old 07-12-2010, 01:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zaq123 View Post
interesting, you aholes got me thinkin about springs now and all i wanted to do was tell this guy to get those forks cause thats a good deal lol.

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post #22 of 35 Old 07-12-2010, 01:45 PM
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Quote:
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interesting, you aholes got me thinkin about springs now


hahaha, stick around and next thing you will be doing is installing custom shim stack

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post #23 of 35 Old 07-12-2010, 01:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brian View Post
I haven't been 200lbs since middle school, 250.
wow, you sure will be happy with new springs and should see immediate difference, especially during braking or cornering. Being 250lbs, front springs should be #1 on your list of cheap mods. Get 1kg rate spring, it will let you achieve proper sag in the front.
As far as the rear shock goes, just crank up the preload to 5 or 6.


PS. Oh wait, I just noticed, you wont be able to dial in preload with 03 legs, they are not adjustable. The only way to get the preload/proper sag) with 03 legs is have fixed preload by cutting longer spacers.
If you want to play with your 03 forks, get new 1kg springs and cut new spacers .The same springs will work on 04+ 919 or f4i forks as well but with different lenght spacers so you can remove them for your next set of forks if needed

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post #24 of 35 Old 07-12-2010, 02:24 PM
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Quote:
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I also have the chance to get a penske for 250 but it involves cutting the frame which I'm not super excited about.
I've never heard anything about cutting the frame to install a Penske. Are you talking about installing a shock that was not made to fit the 919? Sounds like a bad idea if that's what you're thinking of doing.

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post #25 of 35 Old 07-12-2010, 03:13 PM Thread Starter
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I've seen pictures of a Penske shock on the 919 (made for the 919). You have to cut a hole in the plastic tray (under the seat) because the size of the reservoir is bigger than the stock. But no cuts on the frame...

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post #26 of 35 Old 07-12-2010, 04:08 PM
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No Frame Cutting Needed for Penske Rear on 919

Quote:
Originally Posted by brian View Post
thanks I'll check that out here in a bit, I was thinking about going the super cheap route out back and just getting a stiffer spring on the stocker for my weight but not sure if it'll be enough of an improvement over stock. I also have the chance to get a penske for 250 but it involves cutting the frame which I'm not super excited about. don't need an ohlins as I'm just a street tooler...

Almost ate shit a second ago, damn sand.
I have a Penske on my 05 and did the installation. No frame cutting is needed. The O D of the Penske is larger than the OEM shock. One does need to carve out the opening where the external reservoir fits into the bodywork. A simple hose clamp still works to hold it in place and goes in the exact same position as for the OEM shock. And the Penske rear is a new world of positive difference as compared to the OEM shock.

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post #27 of 35 Old 07-12-2010, 04:40 PM
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Zaq I have f4i forks so I've been playing with the settings and they do feel way better than my stockers. Thanks for the info I'm gonna get on it soon.

McCromo that must be what I read, that makes me wanna jump on it damn it... I installed a cbr 600 shock on a TL1000r to get rid of that goofy rotary damper thingy and that required grinding the frame out a little for spring clearance and I just didn't feel good about it even though it was a real overly strong part of the frame and I never had an issue it just didn't feel right dickin with the frame so your info was helpful thanks! Damn I may have to get it.

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post #28 of 35 Old 07-12-2010, 04:55 PM
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" I bought my penske shock from Traxxion Dynamics in sept. '08. I was mainly interested in a better ride on the street, not a track oriented competition unit. The guy at Traxxion asked me lots of questions like my weight, riding style and any complaints about the stock ride/handling and what I wanted to improve. He recommended the basic least expensive penske "sport shock" and a hyperco spring for my weight only, no passengers or heavy luggage. Cost was $588.08 shipped. You can check them out at traxxion.com. Install was pretty easy, but I did have to grind a small area of the upper mount area of the frame for clearance. Make SURE to measure the rear ride height carefully before removing the original shock because the penske has a ride height adjuster which is separate from it's pre-load adjuster."

Quote form a guy on this site that installed one..

https://wristtwisters.com/naked-bikes...-year-now.html

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post #29 of 35 Old 07-12-2010, 06:23 PM
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Frame Grinding re Penske fitment to 919

Quote:
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" I bought my penske shock from Traxxion Dynamics in sept. '08.Install was pretty easy, but I did have to grind a small area of the upper mount area of the frame for clearance.

Make SURE to measure the rear ride height carefully before removing the original shock because the penske has a ride height adjuster which is separate from it's pre-load adjuster."
Re Frame Grinding
I had a look at my Penkse. While I did not have to grind or cut to fit the shock, I can see how a very slightly larger OD at the top of the body below the mounting eye point would result in interference. Perhaps it depends on the vintage of the Penske used, or which basic body was used for the build.
For sure I had to open up the plastic to make way for the external reservoir.

Re Ride Height Adjustment.
This is an excellent point, but there's more to be aware of.
If you are using a Traxxion style "soft top out rear set up", which means a spring rate selected for weight and purpose, but with a free sag of 10 or 11 mm, your rider sag will be too much. In which case you use the Ride Height Adjustment to lengthen the shock so that the rider on ride height will be correct. I've done this on my 919 and my track day GSX-R750. The idea is soft top out from a reduced preload by virtue of a 10 mm free sag, correct spring rate, and correct ride height with the rider on the bike.

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post #30 of 35 Old 07-15-2010, 06:15 PM
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I've never purchased something off CL I couldn't see in person, ...

it can be contagious

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post #31 of 35 Old 07-15-2010, 07:20 PM Thread Starter
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I've got the online purchasing bug... and the only thing that'll cure me is MORE COWBELL.

Seriously though, I now have to push back even further my golfing purchases..

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post #32 of 35 Old 07-20-2010, 03:05 PM
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bump


did ya get 'em yet? (the forks)

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post #33 of 35 Old 07-20-2010, 03:35 PM Thread Starter
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They came in today, still need to find the time to mount them up. I talked to the seller, he filled them in with 15w oil... How does the heavier weight differ from putting in stiffer springs?

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post #34 of 35 Old 07-21-2010, 05:23 AM
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Typically, heavier springs require more damping. Heavier oil is one way to increase damping forces (compression and rebound).

I'm no expert but heavier oil in forks with springs that are too light would tend to make things worse, certainly not an improvement.

In your position, I would switch back to 10W oil and replace the springs as a starting point. Proper spring tension (at least fairly close) is pretty important for getting your suspension working decently.

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post #35 of 35 Old 07-21-2010, 07:29 AM
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Heavier oil is not the answer, stock valve orifices are designed for curtain viscosity fluid. Also 15W doesn't say much. What brand was the fluid and was it cartridge type fluid or conventional?
You can't go by labeled oil weight, not only is this a poor way to decide which oil to use, but each manufacturer seems to be on a different scale.
15w is SAE scale. Suspension fluid goes by ISO VG.
Look for oil made specifically for cartridge type forks (sometimes they call it fluid instead of oil) with viscosity ~16 [email protected]

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