I went to the local paint store.. they sell automotive grade paints.
so a little backstory. it looked like the stock paint was mostly still under the primer, and the PO didn't remove the stickers so they were showing thru the primer. so after consulting the paint guy.. he suggested getting the high end custom aerosol with auto paint mixed up since the quantities would be so small.
I sanded down the decals to bare metal/original primer, and feathered everything out manually. I used some fancy bondo-ish stuff that he said would feather out better than regular bondo (ill get the name of it later).. worked great for a filler. I then 2 coat primed with a high build primer sanding at 220 between coats. Then I used the automotive aerosol color coat that he mixed... 2 wet coats and I had good coverage. I waited 1 hour and top coated with an activated clearcoat. I used 3 coats, waiting about 2 min in between to flash. The activated clearcoat reviews are good and the paint guy said it won't melt if I dribble fuel on it. its not perfect by any means mainly because my bondo prep/sanding wasn't perfect and my inability to be patient enough to not mess up the primer by touching it.. but its light years better than what it was before. Honestly if you just follow the directions and don't touch the tank for 1 full hour before sanding you will be fine
Looks good. Curious about how you went about doing this and what paint you used.
since the tank was already painted, just primered over the top, I left it on the bike, just slid it back to free the front ears and propped it up with sticks. I used garbage bags to mask off the bike and removed the cap/plugged the hole with tape. did all the work with the tank on.
If it is on top of the clear coat 3M makes a rubber adhesive peeling wheel that you can just put on a high speed drill. You just have to use a little care to not burn the clear coat. If it is under the clear coat then you use a fine tipped razor knife to cut around the edges of the label then spray on liberal amounts of windex or soapy dish water to help release and work at it. I've also seen guys do that and use a heat gun as well. There is a youtube video here:
If you are doing a respray your going to be doing some sanding and can use some high build primer to get rid of the ridge left behind, then you finish work it and once you hit it with color and clear you'll never know there was a sticker there.
88 Blue Hawk (NT650) Project Pics - http://tinyurl.com/clw8h3q
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2002 DL1000 V-Strom