Spring Updates - Wrist Twisters
 
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post #1 of 10 Old 03-17-2015, 09:33 AM Thread Starter
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Spring Updates

It's not officially Spring yet, but since I'm itching to get out and ride, how are the mods, upgrades, maintenance jobs, etc. coming? We got a little heatwave here in the Mitten this weekend and temps creeped up north of 40 so I started to do a few of the mods I've be patiently waiting to make.

The first and simplest thing I did was swap out the stock horn for a PIAA 400Hz sport horn. Unplug, unbolt, replug, rebolt. Yeah, it was pretty easy, but definitely made a huge difference in the sound level. My Dad, who had a 1974 CB550, said that was the first thing he did to his because stock horns are such a P.O.S. Funny how in over 30 years they haven't gotten better...



(Yes, I know my headers need to be cleaned. It's on the list!)

I already sent the seat out to have the Spencer mod done and the seat feels so much better. So next, I did the second of my comfort / fit mods which involved replacing the footpegs with some Cycle Pirates 360 adjustable pegs. You have to buy the adjustable portion and the pegs themselves separately, so I went for the long pegs (80mm vs. 68mm).

Overall these pegs feel really nice and definitely put my feet in the position I was hoping for. I'm tall and have big feet (6'6" with size 17) and these did a great job of moving my feet down and back. Sure it's not as sporty and I lost some ground clearance, but my knees now fit in well under the flares in the tank. Also, I've got more room to shift / brake while also keeping my feet away from the levers during cruising.

As you can see in the photo, the arm that I have mounted in the 8 o'clock position is rotatable about the bolt and is held in position by a pin and the bolt itself. The peg can be mounted in one of two holes so when you put it all together, you really have a lot of adjustability.



The final task I undertook was mounting my new bars. I bought some black Renthal Road Highs, tapped vibranators, and Moto Elite folding bar end mirrors.

A big thank you to HrcRacing27's Renthal Guide and HornetMan's Vibranator Install for giving me the blueprint for what I needed to do.

TL;DR version of the install is that I started a cut 1" in from the ends with a pipe cutter, finished with a hack saw, deburred, knocked in the inner plastic, tapped for the vibranators, drilled for my controls, and mounted them all up. After that I installed some Pro Grips and slapped the mirrors on just before it got dark.

Now, it took much longer than that and involved a lot of pondering and double checking on my part, but the guides mentioned above definitely gave me peace of mind knowing what I had to do. I used my parents garage for the work and when my Dad showed up at the end, he was thoroughly impressed with the work, so thanks for that guys.

Unfortunately, it was too dark to get a good photo and I needed to go buy a different length M8 screw to hold on the bar end mirrors, so I don't have a good one of the finished work...yet. But here's a before for s and giggles:





I'll get a good one of the finished product soon. The Road Highs definitely help me get in a more comfortable position and allow me to stretch out. The biggest difference though is the increased spread and reduced drawback. The stock bars had my elbows pinched in and my wrists twisted in a pretty uncomfortable position. The Roach Highs spread my arms out in a more natural angle down from my shoulders and will certainly be easier on the wrists. Again, not the sportiest position, but that's not what I was going for. Also, the controls work fine for anyone concerned about clutch / throttle operation with the Road Highs.

I love the way the bar ends clean up the look and the Moto Elite mirrors seem to be really well made. Nice detents for open and folded and they've got a decent heft to them. Once I get out on the road I'll let you know if I get any vibes, but between the Renthals and the Vibranators, I'll be shocked (and pretty pissed) if there's anything major going on there. Now I just need some caps to cover up the stock mirror holes.

Still on the to-do list:

Quick Release F-16 Windscreen
Polish Headers
Replace Headlight Bulb
Clean Chain
Lube Chain
Check Tension
Change Oil
Bleed Brakes
Install PAIR Plates
Flapper Mod
Move Helmet Lock
Plasti-Dip Grab Handle and Side Cover
Check Coolant
Check Tires
Check Clutch / Throttle Tension
Check Idle Speed
Check Brakes
Check Air Filter

Phew! I'll probably save the Windscreen, Headers, PAIR, Flapper Mod, and Plasti Dipping for later that way I've got something to keep me occupied. The rest of it is more piece of mind maintenance since I bought mine used last fall and want to get off to a fresh start this season. Then, I should be ready to ride. As soon as the salt washes off the road...

Again, thanks to all of you for the shared advice and help on this forum. It's really been a massive help for me as I've gotten to know my 919 and I hope I can give a little back. If you've got questions about anything I've ordered, impressions I have, or even just more detailed pics, let me know.

Dan

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post #2 of 10 Old 03-17-2015, 09:43 AM
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Looks good Dan, seems you already know what you want and need (can) do. Have fun!

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post #3 of 10 Old 03-17-2015, 08:21 PM
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So please tell me about the horn. Is it really plug and play or is a relay needed? Louder than the plug and play Fiam horns in the auto part stores? Thanks for any info.

Some ride reports:
http://leroylanes.blogspot.com/

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post #4 of 10 Old 03-18-2015, 07:11 AM
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Just getting my front brakes in order. Hope to have the new larger master cylinder on and system bled by the end of the week. It's ride-able then, though I have yet to wire up and fabricate mounts for the Koso gauges and Rizoma signals. Also need to fab a new mount for the ignition, but a zip tie will do for now.

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post #5 of 10 Old 03-18-2015, 07:22 AM
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Originally Posted by alekkas View Post
So please tell me about the horn. Is it really plug and play or is a relay needed? Louder than the plug and play Fiam horns in the auto part stores? Thanks for any info.
Personally, I wouldn't run it without a relay. Last thing you want is to blow a fuse (or worse) out on a ride.



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post #6 of 10 Old 03-18-2015, 07:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alekkas View Post
So please tell me about the horn. Is it really plug and play or is a relay needed? Louder than the plug and play Fiam horns in the auto part stores? Thanks for any info.

Definitely need a relay.

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post #7 of 10 Old 03-18-2015, 07:43 AM
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You need to move those sliders too from the engine mount to the frame

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post #8 of 10 Old 03-18-2015, 07:56 AM
just send it.
 
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You need to move those sliders too from the engine mount to the frame
Nice catch. That would be numero uno on my list...



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post #9 of 10 Old 03-18-2015, 07:58 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Definitely need a relay.
Based on this thread:

https://www.wristtwisters.com/forums/...tml#post226164

and the fact that I'm only running one horn, I did not wire up a relay. A single horn only draws 2.7A. Plenty of the others on that thread simply plugged it in to the stock horn wires. Also, in the PIAA instructions, when you're only installing one horn, the wiring diagram uses the stock wires. I'm confident it'll be fine.

Quote:
You need to move those sliders too from the engine mount to the frame
I know I know haha. I bought it used and need to fix that. I'm just waiting to hear when those T-Rex ones will be available again!

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post #10 of 10 Old 03-18-2015, 07:07 PM
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Good job and nice summary. Makes me want to do something productive...
BTW, I'd be surprised if the T-Rex sliders are much different from the ones you have right now. Both are probably just delrin. You just need to relocate the current ones forward, off the aluminum casting, and on to the steel frame member.

I'm glad you like the Spencer seat upgrade. I like mine also.
It was fun to get the bike out of the garage and ride around last weekend. Only down side was gravel in the intersections and pot holes.

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