Spitting oil :( - Wrist Twisters
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post #1 of 15 Old 05-03-2019, 03:46 PM Thread Starter
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Spitting oil :(

Had to take my 919 in today. I rode it to class, and then started it up this afternoon to go for a fun ride, and it started spraying oil all over my garage floor out of the exhaust!
Hoping it's as simple as a valve adjustment, any other ideas on what I could expect?
It has 21,500 miles if that helps.

Thanks!
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post #2 of 15 Old 05-03-2019, 03:59 PM
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Just make sure it's not excess fuel getting blown out the exhaust. A failed FPR will allow excess fuel into cylinders 2 and 3.
FWIW the bike looks great.

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post #3 of 15 Old 05-03-2019, 04:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Islandboy View Post
Just make sure it's not excess fuel getting blown out the exhaust. A failed FPR will allow excess fuel into cylinders 2 and 3.
FWIW the bike looks great.
By far the most likely scenario.
IF it was oil going out the exhaust, I'd be looking for some very sick sounds coming from the engine.
I sure hope it's fuel and not oil..............$$$$$$$$$$$$$$

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post #4 of 15 Old 05-04-2019, 02:07 AM
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Pretty easy to tell if it's oil or gas, gas will evaporate, oil will remain after a few hours.

I'd check if you have a cyl that's not firing. Pull the plugs and look for a wet one, run the bike for a few minutes and then pull the plugs and look for fuel.

You can attach a timing light to each of the for spark plug wires, one at a time and make sure each one is firing.

A leak down test tells a lot about how it's sealing, not very expensive from Harbor Freight.

I'd think the valves have to off quite a bit for it to pass oil, and passing unburnt gas out the exhaust seems unlikely because it would have to be quite a bit or it would just evaporate.

Maybe a bad oil control ring, the pistons have 3 rings and the oil control ring scrapes the oil off the sides, if they lock up, oil could be getting into the chamber and out the exhaust.

Also, valve stem seals. Had it happen to a car, the valve stem seals crack.

If the valve stem seals are bad, you can replace them without removing the head. I can explain how if you want.

If it's the rings, you'll need to drop the pan and remove the head.

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post #5 of 15 Old 05-04-2019, 09:31 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the responses! On second thought, the splatter from the exhaust did seem to disappear off of my floor quickly, I didn’t consider the possibility of it being gas. I have DanMoto exhaust, so it’s very open and would probably allow gas to fly out without evaporating first.
I dropped it off at the shop immediately, and they can’t get to it for two weeks.
Is the FPR something I could do myself or should I just sadly not ride for two weeks and leave it to the pros? Thanks again!

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post #6 of 15 Old 05-04-2019, 09:42 PM Thread Starter
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After further research, another symptom is that it stalled when braking downhill with 1.5 gal of fuel left. So I’m definitely guessing fuel pressure regulator.
The question still remains if it’s something the shop should look at or if it’s something I can do. Please let me know your experiences with replacing FPR!
Would a bad FPR have caused any other problems, or have other problems that I wouldn’t be able to diagnose myself?

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post #7 of 15 Old 05-04-2019, 09:44 PM Thread Starter
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Is this the part I would need to order?
https://www.partzilla.com/product/honda/16740-MCZ-013

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post #8 of 15 Old 05-04-2019, 11:24 PM
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Yeah that's the part. When the FPR fails it can often dump excessive amounts of fuel into cylinders 2 and 3 via two vacum ports at the throttle bodies. You can check the spark plugs from these cylinders for excessive fuel, dark and wet.
You can check the vacum hoses connected to the FPR for fuel, there should be none. Sometimes fuel can makes its way into the airbox too.
If it is a failed FPR I wouldn't run the engine, excessive fuel dumped into a cylinder can damage things. A situation called wash down with the fuel making its way into your oil sump.
There are plenty of posts on this forum on failed FPRs. Do a little Google search.
Its fairly straight forward to replace. You lift the tank to get access.
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post #9 of 15 Old 05-05-2019, 04:02 PM Thread Starter
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I assume it'd be safe to run the engine after replacing FPR? If it's not, what needs cleaned/fixed/replaced? Thanks again!

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post #10 of 15 Old 05-05-2019, 04:18 PM
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If your FPR has failed change your engine oil/filter as well. Just in case fuel has made its way into your oil sump.
You may also want to check the condition of your plugs. Fouled from the excessive fuel.
Check the airbox for fuel.
Basic stuff, just thinking where fuel may have gone.
If your the one that replaces the FPR make sure you remove the rubber transit bung jammed into the port on the side that bolts down.
The workshop manual has good instructions for this job.
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post #11 of 15 Old 05-05-2019, 05:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Islandboy View Post
If your FPR has failed change your engine oil/filter as well. Just in case fuel has made its way into your oil sump.
You may also want to check the condition of your plugs. Fouled from the excessive fuel.
Check the airbox for fuel.
Basic stuff, just thinking where fuel may have gone.
If your the one that replaces the FPR make sure you remove the rubber transit bung jammed into the port on the side that bolts down.
The workshop manual has good instructions for this job.
Another potential problem with all this, is what accrues in #2 & 3 re whatever amount of fuel washing of the cylinders there was.
Hopefully it was just minutes of run time, under light to no load, in which case I'd hope that no damage occurred at the piston/ring(s)/cylinder wall.
It should be of no potential issue at the valve guides.

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post #12 of 15 Old 05-05-2019, 05:53 PM
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The 919 seems to be a very forgiving engine.
I've read other FPR failed posts where the owners have done quite a bit of riding before replacing the FPR. Lots of fuel washdown of cylinders 2 and 3, with the oil sump full of fuel. Leak down tests have shown all cylinders equal and presumably little damage. Bike running fine again.
It's a mostly bullet proof engine, awesome metallurgy.
I didn't want to freak the guy out since I believe he has been riding the bike.
If there is a lot of fuel in the oil maybe do two oil changes with a little run between.
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post #13 of 15 Old 05-05-2019, 07:47 PM Thread Starter
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Well, it's currently 'in line' at the shop and they won't be able to look at it for 2 more weeks, and it has to be at the shop to be in line.
Thinking about ordering the part from them and replacing it, doing an oil change, and replacing plugs in the parking lot of the shop so I can test run it while it's there, and hopefully ride it home so I don't have to rent a u-haul. Hopefully that should cover my bases!

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post #14 of 15 Old 05-05-2019, 08:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Isaiah Wright View Post
Well, it's currently 'in line' at the shop and they won't be able to look at it for 2 more weeks, and it has to be at the shop to be in line.
Thinking about ordering the part from them and replacing it, doing an oil change, and replacing plugs in the parking lot of the shop so I can test run it while it's there, and hopefully ride it home so I don't have to rent a u-haul. Hopefully that should cover my bases!
Any shop that requires your bike to sit there for 2 weeks should be a shop you don't go to. What difference does it make if your bike is there or not?

I'd watch a video on replacing the FPR and do it yourself.

I had my car towed to a shop when I was in HS and after all the time/expense, they had no clue how to fix it. Ended up the dist was 180 off, I pulled it out, popped it back in 180 deg off and drove off.

Once a bike get to 10 years old, many shops won't work on them, then you have other shops that charge out the nose for their work... it's best to learn these things yourself.

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post #15 of 15 Old 05-06-2019, 02:06 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for all your responses! I got the FPR ordered, PAIR block off plates as an extra treat, new plugs, and GN4 for an oil change. Hopefully this solves the problem!

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