Rotor question? - Wrist Twisters
 
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post #1 of 17 Old 12-20-2010, 05:43 PM Thread Starter
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Rotor question?

So, I did the RR rear wheel conversion and f3 front looks sweet! but the powder coat was real thick around where the rotor bolts on so I had rubbing issues I took the wheel off and sanded the coating down and that calmed it down alot! but at low speeds real low 15mph or less I feel a little grabing, could this be caused by me not bleeding the brakes? I didnt disconnect the lines so I didnt think it was required?

And if they are tweaked a tad can I fix em by having them turned?

-thanks

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post #2 of 17 Old 12-20-2010, 06:04 PM
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if they're grabbing a little, has nothing to do with the lines so ur good there. check your calipers and make sure they are sliding freely. brake cleaner is ur friend for those areas. also clean out the metal tab that the pads slide on as well. and apply some brake grease to those areas mentioned. should cure your problem. also, dont over torque the bolts for the calipers as it'll bring em in closer and cause grabbing at times.

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post #3 of 17 Old 12-20-2010, 07:18 PM
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Warped rotors??

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post #4 of 17 Old 12-20-2010, 07:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brian View Post
So, I did the RR rear wheel conversion and f3 front looks sweet! but the powder coat was real thick around where the rotor bolts on so I had rubbing issues I took the wheel off and sanded the coating down and that calmed it down alot! but at low speeds real low 15mph or less I feel a little grabing, could this be caused by me not bleeding the brakes? I didnt disconnect the lines so I didnt think it was required?

And if they are tweaked a tad can I fix em by having them turned?

-thanks
Take the rotor(s?) off and dial the flange(s) for runout. Any runout there gets magnified out at the friction area of the rotor(s).
If your flanges run true, then mount up the rotor(s) and dial the rotors on their friction face. Also dial them just below the friction face. You should get a smoother dial reading there just because the pads aren't running there.
The results will be your guide re next step(s).

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post #5 of 17 Old 12-20-2010, 08:19 PM Thread Starter
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Warped rotors??
kinda what I was thinkin but hoping not, if I grab a big handful of brake at a decent clip they feel fine though?

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Take the rotor(s?) off and dial the flange(s) for runout. Any runout there gets magnified out at the friction area of the rotor(s).
If your flanges run true, then mount up the rotor(s) and dial the rotors on their friction face. Also dial them just below the friction face. You should get a smoother dial reading there just because the pads aren't running there.
The results will be your guide re next step(s).
What? Ive taken them off and set em on a flat surface and they didnt wobble.

Pv, the calipers/pads are cleanish but ill do a once over on em.

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post #6 of 17 Old 12-20-2010, 08:34 PM
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putting the rotor on a flat surface to check for wobble OR taking a measurement with a dial indicator

two completly different unit of measurement

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post #7 of 17 Old 12-20-2010, 08:52 PM Thread Starter
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I guess I need to add a dial indicator to the tool box... , you said unit

wouldnt a warped rotor have a stronger feel the faster you were moving? thats whats throwing me off.

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post #8 of 17 Old 12-20-2010, 09:47 PM
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If your rotor is warped, your brakes would be pulsating.

Did you go for a ride before powder-coating?? Was it good then??

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post #9 of 17 Old 12-21-2010, 07:21 AM Thread Starter
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No I did the wheel conversion at the same time I got the wheels/rotors, the guy I got the from said they were fine but it was his first bike and he was kinda young so Im not sure if he wouldve been aware.


The thing thats making me leaning away from warped is when Im going any decent speed they feel fine, its just real real low speeds I feel a little grab and release, I guess you could call it a pulse a slow one.

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post #10 of 17 Old 12-21-2010, 11:47 AM
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...... I'm having the same issues at slow speeds..... with new EBC rotors and new pads.
I'm attributing this to the rotors just need more time for the rotors/pads to seat together.

I'm guessing that over time you'll be fine.

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post #11 of 17 Old 12-21-2010, 11:55 AM
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...... I'm having the same issues at slow speeds..... with new EBC rotors and new pads.
I'm attributing this to the rotors just need more time for the rotors/pads to seat together.

I'm guessing that over time you'll be fine.
You have EBC wavey rotors, right ?
Me too.
In fact the shop warned me about it, so as not to panic and suspect my new rotors were duff.
Mine pulsed for a while, then it started to diminish and then it was gone.
It took a while too, over 1000 miles I think, partially because I'm light on the front on the road, and only use them hard at the track.
I got waveys for the look. (I admit this publicly)
I won't do that again.

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post #12 of 17 Old 12-21-2010, 12:16 PM
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I would carefully remove the powder-coat from the wheel where the rotor mates with the wheel, just to make sure the rotor is flat against the wheel.

What about the spacers on both sides of the wheel, are they the same thickness?? Your wheel might be off-center, how is the alignment between the front and rear sprockets??

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post #13 of 17 Old 12-21-2010, 12:19 PM Thread Starter
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Oh, it is waaaay better than it was say a week ago. Im going for a ride!

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post #14 of 17 Old 12-21-2010, 12:24 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
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I would carefully remove the powder-coat from the wheel where the rotor mates with the wheel, just to make sure the rotor is flat against the wheel.

What about the spacers on both sides of the wheel, are they the same thickness?? Your wheel might be off-center, how is the alignment between the front and rear sprockets??
I did remove the powder coat, the wheel is centered good thought though. Alignment check.

one more thing I was considering was when you put the f3 wheel on you have to shim in the calipers with a washer on each bolt. I did that and they seem to line up fine...

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post #15 of 17 Old 12-21-2010, 02:07 PM Thread Starter
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update I bled the lines, left was fine. Right side had a few bubbles, brakes feel quite a bit better. Im gonna put some miles on it and see what goes on, thanks guys.

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post #16 of 17 Old 12-26-2010, 05:37 PM
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You don't need the back brake anyway! that's why there's two rotors on the front!

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post #17 of 17 Old 12-27-2010, 07:37 AM Thread Starter
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I used to run with some drag race guys and they always ran one rotor up front, I was thinkin about it but I like all of my stoping power on tap!

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