rear tire wearing faster - Wrist Twisters
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post #1 of 40 Old 06-19-2018, 12:41 PM Thread Starter
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looking for some experienced opinions from the experts here.

is it possible that my rear pilot power 3 is wearing faster than it was before now that it's down nearing the wear bars?

I only ask because a few hundred kilometers ago it seemed to be ok yet(although starting to square off.) Now I'm really questioning if I should even be riding on it.

thanks

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post #2 of 40 Old 06-19-2018, 06:41 PM Thread Starter
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and by "experts" I meant all of you!

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post #3 of 40 Old 06-19-2018, 07:10 PM
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I have never ridden on what I will call high mileage touring tires.
Only sport rubber.
It's always seemed to me that once the rears square off, they wear faster.
My guess is the increased contact patch of relatively treadless "flat rubber" in association with a "rounded carcass" causes more squirm which results in more wear.

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post #4 of 40 Old 06-21-2018, 04:39 AM
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I wonder if once squared off a rear tire is more prone to damage from excessive engine braking? Rely on front brake more?

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post #5 of 40 Old 06-23-2018, 10:53 AM Thread Starter
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rear tire wearing faster(balance beads)

I went ahead and ordered myself a new rear tire.

now I am wondering about installing balance beads.

does anyone here have any experience with balance beads in motorcycle tires?

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post #6 of 40 Old 06-23-2018, 02:46 PM
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Dynabeads rock. I'll never use weights again.
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post #7 of 40 Old 06-23-2018, 02:50 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rmb View Post
Dynabeads rock. I'll never use weights again.
is there a difference between Dynabeads and Counteract? I use Counteract at work so they are readily available for me.

however I did notice this disclaimer....
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post #8 of 40 Old 06-23-2018, 09:47 PM
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Haven't heard of them, I assume they are similar.

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post #9 of 40 Old 06-23-2018, 11:03 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rmb View Post
Haven't heard of them, I assume they are similar.
I did a bit of research and the difference seems to be that dynabeads are made of ceramic where counteract beads are made of coated glass.

I'm sure one is just as good as the other

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post #10 of 40 Old 06-24-2018, 02:22 PM
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I've used both. No difference. Just be sure to get the valve stem area clear of those little guys.

Do you change your own tires? I go thru a lot of tires. Changing my own has saved me a bunch of money. I've finally found a device I'd been hoping someone would make. It called The Yellow Thing. It's made by No Mar. if I knew how, I'd post a pic of it today. I have one ordered. As soon as it shows up, I can post a pic. The Yellow Thing holds the lip of the tire down below the rim as you spoon the tire on. It'll free up your other hand. I have a device called a Bead Buddy, for dirtbike tires. The Bead Buddy performs the same function, but mounts a via a spoke, which most street bike wheels don't have. I'm really looking forward to the arrival of my Yellow Thing.

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post #11 of 40 Old 06-24-2018, 03:28 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sniper-x View Post
I've used both. No difference. Just be sure to get the valve stem area clear of those little guys.

Do you change your own tires? I go thru a lot of tires. Changing my own has saved me a bunch of money. I've finally found a device I'd been hoping someone would make. It called The Yellow Thing. It's made by No Mar. if I knew how, I'd post a pic of it today. I have one ordered. As soon as it shows up, I can post a pic. The Yellow Thing holds the lip of the tire down below the rim as you spoon the tire on. It'll free up your other hand. I have a device called a Bead Buddy, for dirtbike tires. The Bead Buddy performs the same function, but mounts a via a spoke, which most street bike wheels don't have. I'm really looking forward to the arrival of my Yellow Thing.
I am intending to use the tire machine at work that we use for car tires. I assume it will work for bike tires as well. I hope I am assuming correctly. if not i know a guy that has a tire machine that works for bikes.

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post #12 of 40 Old 06-24-2018, 05:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sniper-x View Post
I've used both. No difference. Just be sure to get the valve stem area clear of those little guys.

Do you change your own tires? I go thru a lot of tires. Changing my own has saved me a bunch of money. I've finally found a device I'd been hoping someone would make. It called The Yellow Thing. It's made by No Mar. if I knew how, I'd post a pic of it today. I have one ordered. As soon as it shows up, I can post a pic. The Yellow Thing holds the lip of the tire down below the rim as you spoon the tire on. It'll free up your other hand. I have a device called a Bead Buddy, for dirtbike tires. The Bead Buddy performs the same function, but mounts a via a spoke, which most street bike wheels don't have. I'm really looking forward to the arrival of my Yellow Thing.
Thanks for the above post.
Hadn't heard of No Mar before.
Found their website.
Quite a range of stuff they offer.
The Yellow Hand looks very much to be in the Slik Bit o' Kit category.
Look forward to your review after first use.

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post #13 of 40 Old 06-27-2018, 03:36 PM
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This is No Mar's Yellow Thing. It holds the bead of the tire below the rim, allowing one guy to use both hands spooning the rest of the tire on.
I was hoping, for years, someone would make something like this.

It is sitting on mt iPhone 7+ so you could get a good idea of the size.
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post #14 of 40 Old 06-27-2018, 07:05 PM Thread Starter
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so I got my back tire on the bike with 2 oz of balance beads. but I am having a heck of a time getting the chain aligned properly.

I think I have the tension pretty good, 30-40 mm is quite a large range. but no matter how I set the alignment I get a noise when rolling the tire backwards, even though forwards is quiet. is this normal? is it because I am using the sidestand with a floor jack and the bike is on an angle maybe?

and to add a twist, I just went for a short test ride and it makes a different kind of rattle noise than I ever remember hearing before. could this be from cleaning a very, very dirty chain?

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post #15 of 40 Old 06-29-2018, 11:58 AM
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How old is your chain?
How many miles?

Sounds like an old chain to me. Maybe put a nice gold DID on that thing.

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post #16 of 40 Old 06-29-2018, 12:13 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sniper-x View Post
How old is your chain?
How many miles?

Sounds like an old chain to me. Maybe put a nice gold DID on that thing.
for all i know the chain is original with 45k kms(28k miles). but I was thinking more the sprocket wear causing the noise when spinning wheel backwards. Either way prob going to have to wait until next season for chain and sprockets. I have since readjusted the chain once more and am riding again 😉

here is a pic of the front sprocket, I think you can see the wear there

ps. that was pre-chain cleaning
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post #17 of 40 Old 06-29-2018, 07:23 PM
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Yeah, pretty obvious wear there. In the past, when I couldn't afford a new one, I'd reverse the sprockets so the unused part gets a go, although new ones are better.

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post #18 of 40 Old 06-29-2018, 08:02 PM
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Quote:
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Yeah, pretty obvious wear there. In the past, when I couldn't afford a new one, I'd reverse the sprockets so the unused part gets a go, although new ones are better.
Yikes!
That is nothing short of a frightening approach, even more so if the mounting flange surface is not symetrical to the centreline of the teeth when the sprocket is flipped.
What one can get away with should not to be construed by others as being an acceptable practice.
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post #19 of 40 Old 06-29-2018, 08:37 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
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Yeah, pretty obvious wear there. In the past, when I couldn't afford a new one, I'd reverse the sprockets so the unused part gets a go, although new ones are better.
I didnt think they were that drastic.

do need to make chain and sprockets a priority?

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post #20 of 40 Old 06-29-2018, 09:02 PM
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If it was me I'd get new sprockets and chain.

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post #21 of 40 Old 06-29-2018, 09:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcromo44 View Post
Yikes!
That is nothing short of a frightening approach, even more so if the mounting flange surface is not symetrical to the centreline of the teeth when the sprocket is flipped.
What one can get away with should not to be construed by others as being an acceptable practice.
Calm down, I did say when I was broke, and new ones were better, and that was less than 10,000klm's, not 45,000.

And I've never let sprockets get that worn, generally I replace them as a set, chain and both sprockets.
On my last bike it was every 10,000 klm's or so.
Ever since a friend had a chain snap and slice through his engine.

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post #22 of 40 Old 06-30-2018, 06:32 AM
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Get a chain and sprockets today. Today.

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post #23 of 40 Old 06-30-2018, 10:11 AM
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Thumbs up

Quote:
Originally Posted by Diablo View Post
Calm down, I did say when I was broke, and new ones were better, and that was less than 10,000klm's, not 45,000.

And I've never let sprockets get that worn, generally I replace them as a set, chain and both sprockets.
On my last bike it was every 10,000 klm's or so.
Ever since a friend had a chain snap and slice through his engine.
I am greatly relieved !

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post #24 of 40 Old 07-01-2018, 10:42 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
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Get a chain and sprockets today. Today.
okay. okay. lol

so what do you guys recommend then for a new chain and sprockets? I have noticed some of you changing gearing, then also noticed some changing back to stock for longer commuting purposes(which I have atm). I have also seen @LDH selling a kit, is this the recommended gearing? or stock?

my head is spinning now 🤪

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post #25 of 40 Old 07-01-2018, 11:59 AM
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Call LDH at Kyle racing. He will tell you what you need. His stuff may (or, may not) be a little higher priced initially, but their stuff is the best there is. It ends up being cheaper in the long run.

Let us know what you do.

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post #26 of 40 Old 07-01-2018, 07:22 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sniper-x View Post
Call LDH at Kyle racing. He will tell you what you need. His stuff may (or, may not) be a little higher priced initially, but their stuff is the best there is. It ends up being cheaper in the long run.

Let us know what you do.
can I seriously phone Kyle racing and ask for LDH? that seems like it could be embarrasing if they have no idea who I am referring to 😉

I did find an old link to their website and they do still have this stuff listed for the 919....
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post #27 of 40 Old 07-02-2018, 03:38 AM
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Send him a PM. He won't bite..... Maybe?

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post #28 of 40 Old 07-02-2018, 04:11 PM Thread Starter
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17-44 kit ordered from LDH this morning.

once again I thank you guys for the excellent guidance

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post #29 of 40 Old 07-02-2018, 06:08 PM
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Quote:
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17-44 kit ordered from LDH this morning.

once again I thank you guys for the excellent guidance
I've yet to see a post from anyone who got the 17-44 kit be anything but very pleased with the sourcing and the results.
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post #30 of 40 Old 07-02-2018, 09:09 PM
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I'm not so much of a fan of the 17/44 as I believe it's part of the reason why I can't do power wheelies anymore

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post #31 of 40 Old 07-03-2018, 08:23 AM
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Quote:
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I'm not so much of a fan of the 17/44 as I believe it's part of the reason why I can't do power wheelies anymore

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No problems here with the 17/44... I'd guess it has more to do with your dragging brakes/less power/broken engine... lol

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post #32 of 40 Old 07-03-2018, 10:37 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nathanktm View Post
I'm not so much of a fan of the 17/44 as I believe it's part of the reason why I can't do power wheelies anymore <img src="https://www.wristtwisters.com/images/smilies/frown.gif" border="0" alt="" title="Frown" class="inlineimg" />

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No problems here with the 17/44... I'd guess it has more to do with your dragging brakes/less power/broken engine... lol
so what is wrong with my 919 then? I definitely don't have the torque to pull power wheelies. are you guys getting this torque from mods?

I also plan to replace the cush drive dampers when I replace my chain and sprockets. could worn dampers rob that much torque?

guess I might need to start a new thread &#x1f609;

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post #33 of 40 Old 07-03-2018, 04:57 PM
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I think 17/44 is a little taller than stock. Have him send a 15, as well. You'll power up then! I always liked the stock final drive on the 919. But on my 599, I went 2 teeth taller. That little guy will power up, if you do the off/on throttle snap.

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post #34 of 40 Old 07-07-2018, 03:44 PM Thread Starter
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Two things:

First after taking my old sprockets off, I realized they are not completely stock. It was 17-43. So if I am correct 17-44 is actually going to shorter gears not taller in the situation(might get her to wheelie yet.)

Second which way does the new front sprocket go on? My old front sprocket was centered and the new one in the kit is offset.

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post #35 of 40 Old 07-07-2018, 04:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Quadiak View Post
Two things:

First after taking my old sprockets off, I realized they are not completely stock. It was 17-43. So if I am correct 17-44 is actually going to shorter gears not taller in the situation(might get her to wheelie yet.)

Second which way does the new front sprocket go on? My old front sprocket was centered and the new one in the kit is offset.
1
520 kit, correct?

2
New rear sprocket is flat faced both sides, no offsetting, correct?

3
Then standard practice of manufacturer's markings face out for the fitment of the front sprocket should still prevail.
As a fail safe check in light of the conversion from 530 to 520, based on 2 above holding true, then the new front should have the teeth offset inwards, in other words less hub height on the back and more outboard.

4
17:44 versus 17:43 will give you about 2 -1/2% more multiplication.
Combine that with the big rotational mass reduction of the 520 kit and you will be able to feel the combination of it all.

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post #36 of 40 Old 07-07-2018, 04:24 PM Thread Starter
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Yes 520 kit would be correct.

The rear sprocket is almost flat. Very slight offset to the inset. I used the manufacturer's # facing out and the offset matched the way the original was installed.

Front sprocket has writing on both sides. See pics....
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post #37 of 40 Old 07-07-2018, 05:30 PM Thread Starter
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I cant seem to win with this project.

If I take 4 links out of the new chain it seems like it will be too short and if I take 3 links out it is putting my adjuster here...
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post #38 of 40 Old 07-08-2018, 07:44 PM Thread Starter
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So is this^^^^^ ok? I haven't cut the chain yet, but I don't think I have a lot of choice.

I assume once the chain stretches I am going to have to get another master link so I can remove another one more in order to get it adjusted properly.

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post #39 of 40 Old 07-08-2018, 08:02 PM
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Quote:
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So is this^^^^^ ok? I haven't cut the chain yet, but I don't think I have a lot of choice.

I assume once the chain stretches I am going to have to get another master link so I can remove another one more in order to get it adjusted properly.
Relax, it's not going to wear that much because of the drive train parts quality in conjunction with your proper cleaning and lubing.

Also, draw the axle all the way back and see how much more chain you'd need on an imaginary basis of doing it that way now.
I think you will find that of reassurance.

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post #40 of 40 Old 07-11-2018, 10:52 AM Thread Starter
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Finally got the new chain and sprockets(17/44) on and a good ride this morning. Nice change. I wont say it has power wheelie torque yet, but definitely pulls the bike up nicer(over 17/43 sprockets that were on the bike.)

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