Rear set rear-sets - Wrist Twisters
 
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post #1 of 21 Old 09-23-2007, 08:25 PM Thread Starter
 
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Rear set rear-sets

Does anyone make rear-sets that move the pegs back about 3-4 inches? Is there some simple way to accomplish this? Or is this going to cost a bunch of money in custom pieces? No need for passenger pegs. Thanks

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post #2 of 21 Old 09-24-2007, 07:05 AM
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Satos go back only 30mm. That's aprox 1 1/4".

But you want to go back 3-4". Why?

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post #3 of 21 Old 09-24-2007, 08:28 PM Thread Starter
 
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The pegs are too far forward for how low my clip-ons are and it causes some back strain being in that position, also my legs are quite long and I was hoping it would give me a bit more room and be easier on my knees.

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post #4 of 21 Old 09-25-2007, 06:04 AM
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The Satos go back and up. Don't know if that's going to help you.

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post #5 of 21 Old 10-04-2007, 01:54 PM Thread Starter
 
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So I am considering custom rear-sets...

So far I have only found one company that makes some (located in Florida):
customartworksinc.com.
Does anybody have experience with them? or have any opinions/advice on custom rear-sets?

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post #6 of 21 Old 10-04-2007, 06:48 PM
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The Sato's are mounted with a separate bracket that attaches to the stock mounting holes on the 919. Seems like it would be less money to have a machine shop just resize that bracket for what you want. I don't know, just throwing that out.

'02 Honda 919 - She's the only one for me!

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post #7 of 21 Old 10-06-2007, 04:43 PM Thread Starter
 
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Thank you Sniper and Sugs for your input.

Quote:
Originally Posted by sugs View Post
The Sato's are mounted with a separate bracket that attaches to the stock mounting holes on the 919. Seems like it would be less money to have a machine shop just resize that bracket for what you want. I don't know, just throwing that out.
I am not sure what you mean. I would love to buy Sato's, but I can't see any way of moving them back really far. I would probably have rear brake and shifter issues too, not sure though.


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post #8 of 21 Old 10-06-2007, 05:49 PM
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S&P move u back the furthest...

BS Giles ain't too pad...

pro-tek outta jersey will make whatever u want

3-4"'s ?? u fookin nuts...use the friggin rear pegs if u want that much...

takin the mounting bracket of the satos to the machine shop and saying i want an extra inch of material here w/ these kinds of holes tapped here idn't a big deal...& of course u'r gonna run into issues w/ shifter/brake when u'r talkin 3-4 flamin inches ...sheesh....can't imagine why u'd want to do that w/ this poor mans streetbike, but rock it if u got it...

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post #9 of 21 Old 10-06-2007, 11:10 PM
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As it happens I ride mine with the pegs effectively 3 inches back and 1 inch higher than stock -- by normally placing my toes on the pegs most of the time. Having said that, as a long time fabricator who has made some spectacular mistakes in peg location, I can say without fear of contradiction that what seems perfectly logical at the moment, especially as radical a change as you postulate, usually turns out to be a costly disaster. When considering this sort of major change I strongly recommend you find a pair of c-clamps, clamp them onto the stock peg brackets where you think you want the pegs, and remove the stock pegs. I think you will find not only were your legs were doing a lot of the work keeping the clip ons tolerable, and once they are largely dealt out of the support picture you will start having wrist and upper back trouble when riding in anything other than a full tuck, and hanging off in corners will get harder without using your hands to help move around in the saddle -- which most racers and instructors say is a definite no-no. Remember the basic rule of peg position: in your normal riding posture, you should be able to lift your butt off the seat without using your hands. Placing the pegs too far away from this position compromises control and usually comfort. So use the c-clamp test to find a location you can live with, then have the $700 (or however much) custom rearsets made. You will probably find a location similar to the Satos (possibly a tad lower) will be about right.
Good luck with this.

Rob

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post #10 of 21 Old 10-07-2007, 12:25 AM Thread Starter
 
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Rob, thank you, this is the exact kind of feed back I want. Can you elaborate on the c-clamp method? I am interested in doing this.


I want to clarify that I already ride on my toes, and that the full weight of my body is at almost all times carried on the footpegs. Thusly, I have never experienced any kind of wrist/arm/upper body pain due to my clip-ons.

My 2 main problems, are lower back pain, due to my body being in a c-shape which I think is due to the footpegs being too far forward. And knee pain, this is something I have always dealt with even with the stock handlebars. I was hoping moving the pegs rearward would help me here, but I am not sure, what do you (Rob or anyone else) think?


I realize that putting handlebars back on my bike would be an easy way of alleviating issue #1, but I have no interest in doing this. I like leaning forward and (sadly) I am determined to make it work.

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post #11 of 21 Old 10-07-2007, 12:36 AM Thread Starter
 
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Here is probaby the worst drawing you will ever see, but I hope it might illustrate what (I think) my problem is and what (I think) my proposed solution would do:


Please WristTwister Members, tell me if I am as crazy as a Ragdoll or if this makes sense.

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post #12 of 21 Old 10-07-2007, 09:47 AM
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No, it isn't the worst I've seen, but it's close

But at least it gives us the idea! The peg position you illustrate is a classic (albeit somewhat mild) drag racing position, and terrible on the street. You would lose most of the support from your feet, throwing it onto your hands. I have been in the situation where someone of roughly your stature installed very low bars and wanted the pegs positioned such that he was comfortable but would still give sufficient cornering clearance, and after three tries I was forced to tell him either he used higher bars or I couldn't be of any help. I hope this is not the case with you, but suspect it may be.
Here is a photo of the c-clamp setup: obviously, you can't stand on them, but it will give you a better idea of where the pegs need to be.

Make sure the swingarm clears the clamps and they don't interfere with any controls, and tape the handle to prevent loosening the clamp with your feet. It will be evident within a couple hundred feet of riding what effect the peg position will have, so it only takes 5 minutes or so to find the right placement -- as long as it's within the range provided by the stock peg brackets.
Normally, in order to maintain balance for someone with long legs I have to place the pegs lower, especially with under the triple clip ons, but this sacrifices cornering clearance.
Incidentally, riding with your toes on the pegs does not change the mean thrust center -- your weight is still placed on the pegs, so it does not give you any idea how mounting them further back will do, which the clamp method will.
Have fun with your experiments, and post the measurements you came up with, and I'll tell you how to make your own rearsets with a bench vice, hacksaw, hand drill, some files, and lots of elbow grease. I usually costs less than $100.

Rob

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On the other hand, if it has not been done never assume it is impossible to do it.
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post #13 of 21 Old 10-08-2007, 02:23 AM Thread Starter
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ratdog View Post
S&P move u back the furthest...

BS Giles ain't too pad...
So I was looking around,
I couldn't find any numbers on the S&P, or the Rizoma's, do you know Ratdog?
I did paste them into one picture but it only helps a little.


I did find some info on the Gilles(which I assume is what you meant by BS Giles):


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post #14 of 21 Old 10-08-2007, 12:10 PM
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i'll have to dig into the archives, at one time i had compiled the offsets of all well known 919 rearset options, including the very hard to find/get stuff

i've not heard of anything more recently that would lead me to expect to find anything different today

i maintain that the requested offset (3"+) is just not a way to go....despite, and with all due respect, despite rob's "effective" offset description...i don't care if it's your toes, balls of your feet or instep, the pegs don't move and any given peg position will allow the same approximate foot positioning options thereby nullifying and inconsequencifying senor tharalsonian's ramblings

the C clamp mockup is the best way i know of to mock a peg position and i think you need to take your drawings to your chiropractor for advice

flashback...

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post #15 of 21 Old 10-08-2007, 10:54 PM
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Elucidation

Quote:
Originally Posted by ratdog View Post
i maintain that the requested offset (3"+) is just not a way to go....despite, and with all due respect, despite rob's "effective" offset description...i don't care if it's your toes, balls of your feet or instep, the pegs don't move and any given peg position will allow the same approximate foot positioning options thereby nullifying and inconsequencifying senor tharalsonian's ramblings
I'm thoroughfully offendified by your valetudinarific ratdogian pedantry! The en effectivo, limnifying cruitiate stressors by effecting greater curvation of the patellar ligament thereby mitigating symnoval entrapment and prepatent amygdalic synapsoidal saturation, indemnifying considerable abatement of distress for the gangling amongst us. From this, it is obvious that the placement of the metatarsal/proximal phalange/distal phalange flexure points coincident to the semistationary support structure/feedback conduit common to most reasonably configured single track conveyances provides considerable beneficial effect as regards the foregoing postulation.
It in no way, however, represents a fundamental realignment of the operator's equilibriumic moment either in the immediate or mean, as was made adequately comprehensible in my subsequent missive. I sincerely anticipate sufficient illumination has been provided in this matter.

Rob

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On the other hand, if it has not been done never assume it is impossible to do it.
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post #16 of 21 Old 10-09-2007, 04:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robtharalson View Post
I'm thoroughfully offendified by your valetudinarific ratdogian pedantry! The en effectivo, limnifying cruitiate stressors by effecting greater curvation of the patellar ligament thereby mitigating symnoval entrapment and prepatent amygdalic synapsoidal saturation, indemnifying considerable abatement of distress for the gangling amongst us. From this, it is obvious that the placement of the metatarsal/proximal phalange/distal phalange flexure points coincident to the semistationary support structure/feedback conduit common to most reasonably configured single track conveyances provides considerable beneficial effect as regards the foregoing postulation.
It in no way, however, represents a fundamental realignment of the operator's equilibriumic moment either in the immediate or mean, as was made adequately comprehensible in my subsequent missive. I sincerely anticipate sufficient illumination has been provided in this matter.

Rob
Well said Professor.....now I see you were sandbagging on the pv=nrt...

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post #17 of 21 Old 10-09-2007, 04:33 PM Thread Starter
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ratdog View Post
i'll have to dig into the archives, at one time i had compiled the offsets of all well known 919 rearset options, including the very hard to find/get stuff

i've not heard of anything more recently that would lead me to expect to find anything different today

i maintain that the requested offset (3"+) is just not a way to go....despite, and with all due respect, despite rob's "effective" offset description...i don't care if it's your toes, balls of your feet or instep, the pegs don't move and any given peg position will allow the same approximate foot positioning options thereby nullifying and inconsequencifying senor tharalsonian's ramblings
Based on your and Rob's advice, I am no longer pursuing that huge offset. I am just looking at what I can get with rearsets, which so far is 30mm back, although the S&P looks like it may be more.

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post #18 of 21 Old 10-09-2007, 05:17 PM
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i think the best solution would be for you to put your feet on the pegs of the motorcycle behind you in traffic.

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post #19 of 21 Old 10-09-2007, 06:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by motorwerks919 View Post
Based on your and Rob's advice, I am no longer pursuing that huge offset. I am just looking at what I can get with rearsets, which so far is 30mm back, although the S&P looks like it may be more.

it is, but the rearsets aren't the quality they really need to be and I can't suggest that you purchase them...


rob is a dork





and he's still wrong
(still nice to have him around though)

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post #20 of 21 Old 10-09-2007, 06:33 PM Thread Starter
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ratdog View Post
it is, but the rearsets aren't the quality they really need to be and I can't suggest that you purchase them...
Well that's all I needed to hear, because I thought they looked pretty crappy anyway, and I don't want junk components on my bike.

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post #21 of 21 Old 10-09-2007, 06:47 PM
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yeah, well...i didn't buy'em myself for that reason, can't let you go spendin ur $ uninformed...

i had similar riding position concerns ( spine is messed up in 3 places and i'm just puttin off surgery til i finish bustin it up doin stupid stuff ) looked at the V360 pegs, aftermarket rearsets w/ an additional offset created by adjustable pegs, all the available rearsets for the 9r, etc.

in the end i went w/ the satos and haven't regretted the purchase, they change the knee position enough that i got the relief i was seeking. having said that, i've also got to say that it's going to change the way you lift your self out of the seat when running over potholes or setting up for a turn...and it's going to stress your knees more not less...i measure this by pain level in my 2 broken down old knees and effort required to hoist the butt out of the seat

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