Rear axel bolt torque spec??? - Wrist Twisters
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post #1 of 36 Old 03-25-2012, 06:52 PM Thread Starter
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Rear axel bolt torque spec???

So I adjusted my chain tension for the first time since I've owned my 9'er, I don't have a torque wrench and just cranked the nuts down pretty tight.....will my wheel fly off my bike ending my life???? Is it crucial to torque to spec??

Thanks

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post #2 of 36 Old 03-25-2012, 07:02 PM
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I guess it's time to take a trip to the hardware store. Torque wrench comes with the territory

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post #3 of 36 Old 03-25-2012, 07:06 PM
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I believe the spec to be 69 foot pounds. That rear axle nut wrench in the stock tool kit is certainly not calibrated. You should be good.

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post #4 of 36 Old 03-25-2012, 07:15 PM
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are you talking about the chain tensioner bolts or axle bolt or both.

Either way... i never use a torque wrench on either of those 3.

I just make sure the axle nut is DAMN tight... but not so tight that its crushing the bearings. And the tensioner bolts ill snug up after tightening the axle... so the axle doesn't wander.

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post #5 of 36 Old 03-25-2012, 07:19 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nd4spdbh View Post
are you talking about the chain tensioner bolts or axle bolt or both.

Either way... i never use a torque wrench on either of those 3.

I just make sure the axle nut is DAMN tight... but not so tight that its crushing the bearings. And the tensioner bolts ill snug up after tightening the axle... so the axle doesn't wander.
Just the axle bolts

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post #6 of 36 Old 03-25-2012, 07:21 PM
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i dont torque the axle bolts to spec. i usually get to around 54-58 ft lbs of torque before it starts binding the axle bearings, and the nut is self-locking so you're good to go. you CAN have it too tight though, so make sure it isn't too tight to begin with.

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post #7 of 36 Old 03-25-2012, 07:25 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks guys....I should get a torque wrench to make sure I didn't over torque the bolts because I'm a bit of a lummox and could have put too much lumm elbow grease into it.

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post #8 of 36 Old 03-25-2012, 08:11 PM
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69 ft-lbs whether it needs it or not

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post #9 of 36 Old 03-25-2012, 10:49 PM
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69. Try it - it is a magic number.

There is usually a reason the factory pick a setting. Stick to it.

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post #10 of 36 Old 03-26-2012, 12:02 AM
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problem with the torque spec especially on the rear axle bolt, is that its a dry torque number..... and typically there will be grease on the threads of the bolt / nut and possibly mating surface of the tensioner / nut... so you get a grossly false reading, and thus severely over torquing the rear axle.

I have always done my rear axle by feel, never had bad wheel bearings... and never had anything just come apart.

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post #11 of 36 Old 03-26-2012, 05:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nd4spdbh View Post
problem with the torque spec especially on the rear axle bolt, is that its a dry torque number..... and typically there will be grease on the threads of the bolt / nut and possibly mating surface of the tensioner / nut... so you get a grossly false reading, and thus severely over torquing the rear axle.

I have always done my rear axle by feel, never had bad wheel bearings... and never had anything just come apart.


Grease has nothing to do with it, period.

In fact it’s better have assembly clean and lubricated to avoid false torque due to increased friction. What holds nut/bolt assembly is the clamping load as a result of fastener’s stretch. The torque applied to fastener must overcome all friction before loading take place.
That’s when torque wrench comes in place to properly load nut/bolt assembly without stretching the bolt beyond the point of no return.
There is also such thing as “stretch” bolts. They are throw away bolts as they don’t return to their normal state after first time being torqued. German Engineers love those things. I had to buy crap load of new bolds when swapping clutch on my TDI as they where freaking everywhere. Close to $200 just in bolts.

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post #12 of 36 Old 03-26-2012, 05:52 AM
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I have a cheap torque wrench for Harbor Freight, so it's probably useless LOL. I just tighten it down to the point where there is no binding, haven't had a problem yet.

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post #13 of 36 Old 03-26-2012, 07:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheBeeDeeGee View Post
I have a cheap torque wrench for Harbor Freight, so it's probably useless LOL. I just tighten it down to the point where there is no binding, haven't had a problem yet.
i too have one from HF, as long as you take care of it, store it properly, and dont bang it on anything, it should serve you well. served me well in over a year so far!

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post #14 of 36 Old 03-26-2012, 03:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pvster View Post
i too have one from HF, as long as you take care of it, store it properly, and dont bang it on anything, it should serve you well. served me well in over a year so far!
Just don't use them upside down! Learned that the hard way .


Mine won't click when the head is updside down, dunno why. But when I get a chance to get a real torque wrench, I will.

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post #15 of 36 Old 03-26-2012, 03:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by g00gl3it View Post
Just don't use them upside down! Learned that the hard way .


Mine won't click when the head is updside down, dunno why. But when I get a chance to get a real torque wrench, I will.
New HF TWs (long ones) are not that bad. I tested them against my good wrenches and they were spot on. Not sure how long they will stay good though. Time will tell
Also for these HF click types or any other click types: when storing them, make sure remove all tension from the spring (loosen them all the way down).
If left compressed, spring can get deformed over time and preload won't be accurate to scale

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post #16 of 36 Old 03-26-2012, 03:29 PM
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never had any issues with the 1/4in and 1/2in clicker HF torque wrenches i have... they are pretty much spot on, and work at all angles haha.

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post #17 of 36 Old 03-26-2012, 04:35 PM
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never used a torque wrench ...always felt how tight it was first and got the feel......what ever the number is.....yes its tight

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post #18 of 36 Old 03-26-2012, 05:06 PM
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[QUOTE=zaq123;493226]Grease has nothing to do with it, period.

In fact itís better have assembly clean and lubricated to avoid false torque due to increased friction.

Some specs are for dry.
Some specs are for oiled, typically 5 W oil based values.
Some specs are for moly-di.

Lube has lots to do with it, be it yes or no lube, or the kind of lube used.

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post #19 of 36 Old 03-26-2012, 06:36 PM Thread Starter
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So I went and got me a torque wrench today...turns out I over torqued the bolt a bit...wouldn't want to damage wheel bearing!!! Thanks guys.....now I feel like a real grease monkey.

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post #20 of 36 Old 03-26-2012, 09:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcromo44 View Post


Some specs are for dry.
Some specs are for oiled, typically 5 W oil based values.
Some specs are for moly-di.

Lube has lots to do with it, be it yes or no lube, or the kind of lube used.
exactly. i know for a fact you get vastly different torque readings with dry vs lubed vs oiled bolts... especially at higher torque values where thread friction plays a big roll.

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post #21 of 36 Old 03-26-2012, 09:39 PM
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torque smorque, your riding against the chain adjusters. don't believe; back em off and go for a blast, then check your slack. torque it till you crush em if you want, axle still gonna move.

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post #22 of 36 Old 03-26-2012, 11:19 PM
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Never had my axle move. Period. Must be due to using my torque wrench ........

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post #23 of 36 Old 03-27-2012, 10:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drivit View Post
torque smorque, your riding against the chain adjusters. don't believe; back em off and go for a blast, then check your slack. torque it till you crush em if you want, axle still gonna move.
not true. i dont even use a torque wrench anymore and my axle doesn't move. confirmed by using a caliper to measure distance on both sides. hasn't moved in over 1.5k miles since the last clean/adjustment. axle bolt is likely around 54-58 ft lbs, thats it.

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post #24 of 36 Old 03-27-2012, 03:45 PM
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ok but were the adjusters backed off?

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post #25 of 36 Old 03-27-2012, 04:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drivit View Post
ok but were the adjusters backed off?
it's what holds the axle in place, so if you back them off, course the axle is gonna move until it rests against the adjusters again

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post #26 of 36 Old 03-27-2012, 04:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pvster View Post
it's what holds the axle in place, so if you back them off, course the axle is gonna move until it rests against the adjusters again
I hope you're kiddin'

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post #27 of 36 Old 03-27-2012, 04:37 PM
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Quote:
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I hope you're kiddin'
not at all. go look at the design, play with the adjusters. if you screw the adjusters in to increase slack, what does it do? it moves the axle forward.

you always want the axle resting against the adjusters before you tighten up the axle bolt, if you dont, the axle will move on you at some point in time (and unevenly at that).

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post #28 of 36 Old 03-27-2012, 05:36 PM
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what i said, 100+ hp will move it. adjusters are part of the chassis.
no need to overtighten.

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post #29 of 36 Old 03-27-2012, 11:58 PM
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69 foot pounds is not over tightening - it is what is specified by the factory.

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post #30 of 36 Old 03-28-2012, 12:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AllanB View Post
69 foot pounds is not over tightening - it is what is specified by the factory.
it's over tightening for me.. causes too much drag for my taste. i find 54-58 to be just about perfect!

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post #31 of 36 Old 03-28-2012, 04:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pvster View Post
it's over tightening for me.. causes too much drag for my taste. i find 54-58 to be just about perfect!
Wait, I thought you didn't use a torque wrench. Do you just tighten it till your jaw clicks?

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post #32 of 36 Old 03-28-2012, 10:58 AM
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i don't NOW. but i used one to see where i was getting in terms of ft lbs if i observed drag on the rear tire, and i got anywhere between 54-58 ft lbs out of the 3 times i did it.

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post #33 of 36 Old 03-28-2012, 04:21 PM
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i thought there was play with adjuster bolts.....meaning if axle bolt are tight you can loosen adjuster bolts where it looks like axle moved but really didnt,,,thats why i snug the adjusted bolt after axle is tight....so it cant move foward....may be confused but never had axle move on any bike....think loose adjuster is being confused with axel moving...100 hp isnt alot

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post #34 of 36 Old 12-05-2018, 10:22 AM
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Rear axel bolt torque spec???How do you get DRAG? It tighten s on spacers not Bearing

Quote:
Originally Posted by marylandmike View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pvster View Post
it's over tightening for me.. causes too much drag for my taste. i find 54-58 to be just about perfect!
Wait, I thought you didn't use a torque wrench. Do you just tighten it till your jaw clicks? <img src="https://www.wristtwisters.com/images/smilies/lurker-eating-popcorn.gif" border="0" alt="" title="Lurker Eating Popcorn" class="inlineimg" />
o Drag ? Tighten to spacers not Bearings.

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post #35 of 36 Old 12-05-2018, 10:25 AM
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Never have ANY oil or grease on ANY thread that is torqued down UnLLeSs it states it should be lubed.Youll likely strip the thread or break the bolt/screw
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post #36 of 36 Old 12-05-2018, 05:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dirt Warrior View Post
Never have ANY oil or grease on ANY thread that is torqued down UnLLeSs it states it should be lubed.Youll likely strip the thread or break the bolt/screw
That is a wise policy, especially when referring to automotive factory manuals.

But keep in mind that when referring to industry tables for suggested torques based on thread series, size and fastener grade, make sure that the table is based on lubed or dry values. I haven't looked in years, but it used to be that many tables were predicated on basis of torque values being linked to the use of 5W weight oil being used as lubricant.

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