Question on rear sprocket. - Wrist Twisters
 
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post #1 of 13 Old 04-16-2009, 09:07 PM Thread Starter
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Question on rear sprocket.

Lots of questions actually. I bought my 919 just last month and I'm kind of planning to start the mods in a weird place

I want to replace the rear sprocket and I know nothing about how to go about it. I am pretty mechanically inclined and I know how to work on cars.... but not bikes, as this is my first and my dad never let me get my hands on his

I'm just trying to tap into the knowledge of the 'twister's forum. Are there any tricks or often overlooked things I should know about when performing this swap? I have done a lot of research on the ratios and I'm sure the oem chain will fit without adding/removing links. How long would it take a first-timer?

Thanks in advance!

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post #2 of 13 Old 04-16-2009, 09:14 PM
(Quintus) Pilus Prior
 
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What sprocket size are you going with?

Make sure you have a torque wrench for the rear axel, and use it on the axel not the nut.

A rear stand will make the job a lot easier, because you will have to remove the rear wheel. If not you will need to find a way to improvise, and raise the rear off the ground. (do a search)

If you are going with a stock rear sprocket I have one you can purchase.

Remember to make sure your chain is tightened properly after you put the rear wheel back on.

Any thing I missed?

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post #3 of 13 Old 04-16-2009, 09:20 PM
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If you really take your time ... about a day.



Seriously, if you have a center stand or track stand to get the rear wheel off the ground it's a piece of cake. For a begginer with the right tools it should only take a hour ... tops.
Without the right tools ... about a day!

For correct procedures, a factory service manual is your best friend. Check ebay.

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post #4 of 13 Old 04-16-2009, 09:45 PM
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i take and tip my 919 onto the kick stand where the rear wheel is about 2" off the ground and slide a cinder block up under the exhaust... be very careful not to knock it off ... but it works... thats how i changed the rear tire last month...



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post #5 of 13 Old 04-16-2009, 11:41 PM
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I don't have a centerstand anymore. So I lift it by strapping it to the rafters. I'm serious.

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post #6 of 13 Old 04-17-2009, 03:49 AM
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Please disreguard Bart and his cinder block.

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post #7 of 13 Old 04-17-2009, 05:26 AM
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Ahhh, here you go with mods!

The owners manual has the torque spec for the rear axle only for removing a flat tire, but not the sprocket bolts. Limited info but good to read though.
For the more involved maintanence you're going to need a Service Manual (Seek/search and you will find).

IMPORTANT: Just like cars, there's a lot of "mechical wisdom" the service manual won't tell you.

To help you more, it'd be good to know why you want to replace it. Going for a ratio change, Is it wore out, wrong color? It's all good!
If there's something mechanically wrong with it, may have to look into a complete fnt/rear/chain replace?

Sound advise about a torque wrench. I use a good quality "beam-type" they're not horridly expensive, but does the job for me.

The biggest troublemaker you'll probably ever have to deal with, watches you from the mirror every mornin'.
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post #8 of 13 Old 04-17-2009, 07:17 AM
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What are your intentions, gearing up or gearing down? Might be easier to change the countershaft sprocket.

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post #9 of 13 Old 04-17-2009, 07:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by barton664 View Post
i take and tip my 919 onto the kick stand where the rear wheel is about 2" off the ground and slide a cinder block up under the exhaust... be very careful not to knock it off ... but it works... thats how i changed the rear tire last month...

Another comparable alterative is a length of 2X4 between the swingarm and ground holding the rear .5" off the ground. I use technique for my chain maint. and when changing my last tire.

Be sure to engage the front brake and hold it with a zip tie or other means. If you do this you will find this setup to be rock solid. I do mean rock solid, it's not going anywhere.

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post #10 of 13 Old 04-20-2009, 09:43 PM Thread Starter
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I am going on a 1200 mile trip at the end of may, and I was entertaining the idea of taking 1 tooth out of the rear.... I figured it wouldn't be as drastic as the 17t front but might settle things down a tad and heck I might even gain .05mpg!

The bike only has 2300 miles on it right now so this was just a touring/cosmetic upgrade but now I plan to take a good few hundred mile trip one weekend here and prioritize..... a wind screen or bars might make more sense.

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post #11 of 13 Old 04-20-2009, 09:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sniper View Post
Please disreguard Bart and his cinder block.
and please overlook this guy also as someone with nothing positive to add...


and i dunno if 1 tooth will make enough difference to offset the cost of a rear sprocket...

probably better off getting the 17t front sprocket and saving about 50 bucks... imho...



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post #12 of 13 Old 04-20-2009, 10:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kranium View Post
I am going on a 1200 mile trip at the end of may, and I was entertaining the idea of taking 1 tooth out of the rear.... I figured it wouldn't be as drastic as the 17t front but might settle things down a tad and heck I might even gain .05mpg!

The bike only has 2300 miles on it right now so this was just a touring/cosmetic upgrade but now I plan to take a good few hundred mile trip one weekend here and prioritize..... a wind screen or bars might make more sense.

Down 1 in the back isn't going to be all that noticeable. Going with the 17t will be cheaper, and a lot smoother.

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post #13 of 13 Old 04-21-2009, 04:15 AM
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Here is an excellent link for changing gearing, just plug in whatever sprocket sizes you want and it will give you how much the axle needs to be moved, wear, and the number of revs changed at given speeds.

http://www.gearingcommander.com/

Down the bottom of the page there is a section for different ratios vs chain and sprocket wear. Note that if you plug in 16/42 sizes the sprocket and chain wear increases quite dramatically. 17/43 and 17/41 are optimum.

Also note that less teeth on the rear sprocket means the axle moves back and there isn't much room - a 17 tooth front sprocket is much better.

BTW AFAM make a 17 tooth 530 front sprocket for the 919 that is the correct width.

http://www.drivesystemsusa.com/p/580...---honda-.html

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'07 FJR1300A (blue)
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