Ok, keep in mind I'm not mechanical. Gonna do an oil change on it today and I go to drain the oil and it looked like the plug had some type of liquid goo on it. The last oil change was done at the shop since they were replacing a rear tire and brake pads.
Shouldn't there be a washer, o-ring, or something like that on the drain plug screw?
No leaks or anything prior to the removal of the plug. It's drained but I didn't refill it yet because I need a strap wrench to remove the filter and all I had was the socket type oil filter remover and it no workee with the pipes being so close to the filter. I need to get the strap wrench tomorrow and want to save an extra trip if I need something on that drain plug.
It sounds like someone used some sealant.. there should be a washer there, most of the plugging is done my the bolt but the washer serves its purpose's. Drain pluga are cheap and mostly universal. I couldn't give you the exact size, though im sure someone can.
Ok, keep in mind I'm not mechanical. Gonna do an oil change on it today and I go to drain the oil and it looked like the plug had some type of liquid goo on it. The last oil change was done at the shop since they were replacing a rear tire and brake pads. Shouldn't there be a washer, o-ring, or something like that on the drain plug screw? No leaks or anything prior to the removal of the plug. It's drained but I didn't refill it yet because I need a strap wrench to remove the filter and all I had was the socket type oil filter remover and it no workee with the pipes being so close to the filter. I need to get the strap wrench tomorrow and want to save an extra trip if I need something on that drain plug.
Also, assuming you're replacing the oil filter, just jab a longish screwdriver through it and use that to loosen it. Every bike I've owned has had the oil filter way over tightened on by the precious owner and I've had to do this to get them off.
Thanks for the info. I know my Burgman 650 had a washer on the drain plug. I'll just pick one up today when I get the strap wrench. I forgot about the whole - screw driver thru the filter thing.
The socket filter remover was all I could use on the scooter the way Zuki designed it. I've noticed people tend to overtighten things too.
You'll will be happy to know, it will be filled with Rotella full synthetic.
Thanks for the info. I know my Burgman 650 had a washer on the drain plug. I'll just pick one up today when I get the strap wrench. I forgot about the whole - screw driver thru the filter thing.
Save your money on the strap wrench, you should never need it. Use the screwdriver through the filter to get it off this time, and just put the filters on hand tight in the future.
That ball valve looks pretty cool. I'm way too cheap, and oil changes are way too easy on the 919, for me to spend the $25, but I'd probably get one for the car and the truck!
The problem is a lot of times the people who put oil filters on hand tight have probably been watching copious amounts of porn, so hand tight for them means they could crush the bones in your hand into powder........
A ball valve sure looks cool but how hard it is to take out the 17mm socket? The only advantage I see is that it's probably easier to keep your hands clean with the ball valve.
I can see one advantage is that you eliminate most of the possibility of mis-threading or jacking up the threads on the oil pan.
If you crossthread or snap that bolt, you're looking at a whole new oil pan and another oil change. And you have to drop the headers to drop the oil pan.
Pop this sucker in and you never have to worry about that again (unless you replace it, which should be rare).
I can see one advantage is that you eliminate most of the possibility of mis-threading or jacking up the threads on the oil pan. If you crossthread or snap that bolt, you're looking at a whole new oil pan and another oil change. And you have to drop the headers to drop the oil pan. Pop this sucker in and you never have to worry about that again (unless you replace it, which should be rare).
I'm that guy who screwed up the threads in the oil pan. Just for a brief moment when going to loosen the drain bolt, I went righty-tighty instead and it was just enough to damage the aluminum threads in the pan. One of the downsides of steel bolt vs. aluminum pan, I guess. I almost went the route of replacing the pan but was able to get a time sert insert in there and it actually worked. Actually feels like an improvement over the softer threads in the pan.
Or you drop the bolt and it rolls into the oil change pan/tub. You then spend the next 10 minutes trying to fish the bolt out of the tiny opening... To me, the drain bolt is the messiest part of the oil change.
Installed the Qwik Valve tonight when I did an oil change. I did have to trim about 1/4" off on that tab (fin) that hangs down next to the drain plug. Plenty of ground clearance. The exhaust headers hang way below it.
Nope. I got the one without it. The oil just drains straight down, so I just stick a pan right under it.
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