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Q about oil drain plug on 919

8K views 38 replies 20 participants last post by  Darth_Firebolt 
#1 ·
Ok, keep in mind I'm not mechanical. Gonna do an oil change on it today and I go to drain the oil and it looked like the plug had some type of liquid goo on it. The last oil change was done at the shop since they were replacing a rear tire and brake pads.

Shouldn't there be a washer, o-ring, or something like that on the drain plug screw?

No leaks or anything prior to the removal of the plug. It's drained but I didn't refill it yet because I need a strap wrench to remove the filter and all I had was the socket type oil filter remover and it no workee with the pipes being so close to the filter. I need to get the strap wrench tomorrow and want to save an extra trip if I need something on that drain plug.
 
#2 ·
It sounds like someone used some sealant.. there should be a washer there, most of the plugging is done my the bolt but the washer serves its purpose's. Drain pluga are cheap and mostly universal. I couldn't give you the exact size, though im sure someone can.
 
#7 ·
Ok, keep in mind I'm not mechanical. Gonna do an oil change on it today and I go to drain the oil and it looked like the plug had some type of liquid goo on it. The last oil change was done at the shop since they were replacing a rear tire and brake pads. Shouldn't there be a washer, o-ring, or something like that on the drain plug screw? No leaks or anything prior to the removal of the plug. It's drained but I didn't refill it yet because I need a strap wrench to remove the filter and all I had was the socket type oil filter remover and it no workee with the pipes being so close to the filter. I need to get the strap wrench tomorrow and want to save an extra trip if I need something on that drain plug.
Also, assuming you're replacing the oil filter, just jab a longish screwdriver through it and use that to loosen it. Every bike I've owned has had the oil filter way over tightened on by the precious owner and I've had to do this to get them off.
 
#8 ·
Thanks for the info. I know my Burgman 650 had a washer on the drain plug. I'll just pick one up today when I get the strap wrench. I forgot about the whole - screw driver thru the filter thing. :)

The socket filter remover was all I could use on the scooter the way Zuki designed it. I've noticed people tend to overtighten things too.

You'll will be happy to know, it will be filled with Rotella full synthetic.
 
#21 ·
Thanks for the info. I know my Burgman 650 had a washer on the drain plug. I'll just pick one up today when I get the strap wrench. I forgot about the whole - screw driver thru the filter thing. :)
Save your money on the strap wrench, you should never need it. Use the screwdriver through the filter to get it off this time, and just put the filters on hand tight in the future.

That ball valve looks pretty cool. I'm way too cheap, and oil changes are way too easy on the 919, for me to spend the $25, but I'd probably get one for the car and the truck!
 
#19 ·
I can see one advantage is that you eliminate most of the possibility of mis-threading or jacking up the threads on the oil pan.

If you crossthread or snap that bolt, you're looking at a whole new oil pan and another oil change. And you have to drop the headers to drop the oil pan.

Pop this sucker in and you never have to worry about that again (unless you replace it, which should be rare).
 
#22 ·
I can see one advantage is that you eliminate most of the possibility of mis-threading or jacking up the threads on the oil pan. If you crossthread or snap that bolt, you're looking at a whole new oil pan and another oil change. And you have to drop the headers to drop the oil pan. Pop this sucker in and you never have to worry about that again (unless you replace it, which should be rare).
I'm that guy who screwed up the threads in the oil pan. Just for a brief moment when going to loosen the drain bolt, I went righty-tighty instead and it was just enough to damage the aluminum threads in the pan. One of the downsides of steel bolt vs. aluminum pan, I guess. I almost went the route of replacing the pan but was able to get a time sert insert in there and it actually worked. Actually feels like an improvement over the softer threads in the pan.
 
#27 ·
Thanks Rob, I do remember reading up on the difference between Time-Serts and Helicoils and I was probably thinking of Helicoils in my response.

Good to know the durability and safety of Time-Serts has been proven, thanks for the info!
 
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