Purge Control Valve... - Wrist Twisters
 
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post #1 of 17 Old 08-13-2007, 07:28 AM Thread Starter
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Question Purge Control Valve...

Excuse my stupidity here. I cleaned and lubed my chain on my 06' 9er this past weekend and decided to take off the CA emission canister as well. One of the instructions is to remove the PCV line that plugs into the canister and cap it off at the PCV.

My question... what does the PCV do for the bike and what are the ramifications of either capping it off or just letting the hose vent into open air?

Just being anal... but prefer that than having a silly problem down stream.

And no I didn't throw the canister away. I'll stick it in a box just in case California does something stupid like start up emission checks on bikes...

Thanks for the enlightenment.


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post #2 of 17 Old 08-13-2007, 12:02 PM
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I just shoved a bolt up inside the tube and put a hose clamp on it, I forgot what it does, but you don't need any extra air in there or you'll burn pistons!

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post #3 of 17 Old 08-13-2007, 12:21 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks Phobman
The tube was plugged into the canister so it must of had some exposure to fresh air. The question is whether there is a pressure component on the valve sensing. Capping it off obviously changes that aspect of the connection. And leaving it open also has an impact. So I'm err-ing on the side of caution and trying to understand the justification for this part in general. My limited internet searches haven't turned up anything concrete to explain away my question.

So any other ideas out there?


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post #4 of 17 Old 08-13-2007, 06:22 PM
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The hoses on the right side of the canister,the small one(#1 hose) is the fuel tank vent, the large one is the "#4 hose"(below the #1 hose),it goes to the EVAP purge control solenoid.
The #4 hose needs to be plugged so as not to suck in dirty air into the motor.
Hose's #2 & #3 are connected to the canister as you know & are completely eliminated.
#2 is the open air -to-canister hose, #3 is the canister drain.

I would suggest plugging the #4 hose in lieu of pulling it.
It is a serious PITA to reinstall if the canister is to be reinstated.
If you do choose to pull the hose then yon can Cap the EVAP PCS & or pull the EVAP PCS & plug the Throttle Body Purge Hose.
FYI: I don't know if you will get a check engine light though if you remove the solenoid. I left mine intact.

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post #5 of 17 Old 04-26-2008, 08:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xrmikey View Post
The hoses on the right side of the canister,the small one(#1 hose) is the fuel tank vent, the large one is the "#4 hose"(below the #1 hose),it goes to the EVAP purge control solenoid.
The #4 hose needs to be plugged so as not to suck in dirty air into the motor.
Hose's #2 & #3 are connected to the canister as you know & are completely eliminated.
#2 is the open air -to-canister hose, #3 is the canister drain.

I would suggest plugging the #4 hose in lieu of pulling it.
It is a serious PITA to reinstall if the canister is to be reinstated.
If you do choose to pull the hose then yon can Cap the EVAP PCS & or pull the EVAP PCS & plug the Throttle Body Purge Hose.
FYI: I don't know if you will get a check engine light though if you remove the solenoid. I left mine intact.
I just got my Phobman centerstand and had to remove the evap canister...not even sure why it had one since I bought the bike new in Maryland. Anyway, I just wanted to clarify about removing hose #2. Can this hose be completely removed or does it need to remain attached at the top. I accidentally pulled the entire hose off while trying to remove it from the canister...and for the life I me I can't see where it was attached! Any feedback would be much appreciated.

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post #6 of 17 Old 04-26-2008, 08:43 AM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xrmikey View Post
If you do choose to pull the hose then yon can Cap the EVAP PCS & or pull the EVAP PCS & plug the Throttle Body Purge Hose.
FYI: I don't know if you will get a check engine light though if you remove the solenoid. I left mine intact.
I removed the PCS and 4 hoses going to the TBs and plugged them with rubber nipples; no check engine lights but the #4 nipple dried up and cracked. I'm thinking because of the heat from the cooling hose less than an inch away. Ended up removing nipples and using two pieces of hose between 1-2 and 3-4 throttle bodies.

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post #7 of 17 Old 04-26-2008, 09:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sokali919 View Post
I removed the PCS and 4 hoses going to the TBs and plugged them with rubber nipples; no check engine lights but the #4 nipple dried up and cracked. I'm thinking because of the heat from the cooling hose less than an inch away. Ended up removing nipples and using two pieces of hose between 1-2 and 3-4 throttle bodies.
Thanks, that definitely helps me with my decision to pull the PCS and thus eliminate the #4 hose from the evap canister...will probably just plug the top tube going to all four TBs right where I remove it from the PCS. (I will try and post some pics later...) Maybe I need to take another look at it and see if I can reduce it further since I already have the gas tank up for installing Semi-Gray's PAIRs Plates.

My other concern was actually the #2 hose though, after reading this again though, I am thinking this was not connected to anything, right? If the name of it is correct "open-air to canister"? Please let me know if I am missing something here...

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post #8 of 17 Old 04-26-2008, 10:28 AM
 
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After removing the PCS and plugging the hose going to the TBs, the only hose needed is the fuel tank vent line.

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post #9 of 17 Old 04-26-2008, 11:17 AM
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I've taken two cannisters off and I can't remember where the other end of the #2 hose was. Maybe the airbox if it's not open air?

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post #10 of 17 Old 04-26-2008, 03:40 PM
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The #2 hose (the one in the center of the canister above the drain) is not connected to anything. It is...open to air.

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post #11 of 17 Old 04-26-2008, 03:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sokali919 View Post
After removing the PCS and plugging the hose going to the TBs, the only hose needed is the fuel tank vent line.
That wouls be the "#1 hose",you are Correct.

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post #12 of 17 Old 04-26-2008, 08:21 PM
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xrmikey, thanks for the clarification of the open-air (#2) hose...there is a small sticker under the gas tank with the diagram of the evap canister and hose descriptions. I saw this while I had the tank lifted to install the PAIRs plates...

Here are a few pictures of the removal of the PCS for anyone that didn't know what we were talking about:



If you follow the hose up and under the gas tank, it splits into a double "T" to go to the throttle bodies:






Final product with my bolt-plugged hose cable tied to choke cable:


By the way, I love my new Phobman centerstand! Well done Phobman!

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post #13 of 17 Old 04-27-2008, 10:56 AM
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I'm glad you figuered it out, it's been so long since I did mine that I couldn't remember how it all went. This thread will hopefully serve those doing the same thing in time to come! Bi polar, why do you have a Ca. model? and are there more like that out there?

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post #14 of 17 Old 04-30-2008, 06:15 PM
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Quote:
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I'm glad you figuered it out, it's been so long since I did mine that I couldn't remember how it all went. This thread will hopefully serve those doing the same thing in time to come! Bi polar, why do you have a Ca. model? and are there more like that out there?
I was wondering the same thing about the CA model since I bought mine in MD. I was also curious if anyone else had the CA model in the other 49 as well?

I actually went for a quick ride tonight for the first time since I removed all this stuff and did the pairs plates removal/install as well. It may just be might imagination, but the bike felt more powerful. I accidentally brought the front wheel up pretty easily with a quick flick of the wrist. I know other people have said they do this, but it has never been that easy for me. It was pretty cold out so I didn't go very far, but something definitely felt different.

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post #15 of 17 Old 04-30-2008, 06:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BiPolarBear View Post
It may just be might imagination, but the bike felt more powerful. I accidentally brought the front wheel up pretty easily with a quick flick of the wrist.
Perhaps it's that gigantic top box hangin' off the back of your bike causing the front to lift!

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post #16 of 17 Old 04-30-2008, 06:35 PM
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Perhaps it's that gigantic top box hangin' off the back of your bike causing the front to lift!
That was fast...I knew somebody was going to make that comment! I had the top case on before doing all the other stuff and didn't notice any change in handling. That thing only weighs about 10 pounds! By the way, the plates look great, thanks semi_gray!

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post #17 of 17 Old 05-04-2008, 09:41 PM
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So nobody else noticed any performance changes after removing the CA required parts? Is it all in my head? It sure feels smoother and more powerful...

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