Programming a new key. - Wrist Twisters
 
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post #1 of 34 Old 10-05-2010, 01:46 PM Thread Starter
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Programming a new key.

Does anyone know how to program a new key for the 9'ner?

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post #2 of 34 Old 10-05-2010, 01:53 PM
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no need to program it, there is no chip

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post #3 of 34 Old 10-05-2010, 02:01 PM
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Other countries have HISS. It needs programming.

Sorry, US guy here. Not much help.

"Towards the end of the vid, it looks like she may have had a bafflectomy." - MarylandMike
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post #4 of 34 Old 10-05-2010, 02:06 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by HondaJim View Post
Other countries have HISS. It needs programming.

Sorry, US guy here. Not much help.
Yep, we have HISS in NZ on the 919.

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post #5 of 34 Old 10-05-2010, 02:17 PM
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Sorry, we're HISSless in California


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post #6 of 34 Old 10-05-2010, 02:17 PM
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There's some info on the web, but I didn't find anything 919 specific. If we get this conquered I'll link it to Helpful Topics.

"Towards the end of the vid, it looks like she may have had a bafflectomy." - MarylandMike
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post #7 of 34 Old 10-05-2010, 02:58 PM
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Next question. How do we crack (er, disable) HISS?


Sorry, computer geek here, I always want to know how to reverse-engineer something!


And no, this question does not need answered, I'm being facetious.

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post #8 of 34 Old 10-05-2010, 03:15 PM
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I've kinda looked into this. There are ways. I'm assuming the HISS iystem is the same for all bikes but the CBR's seem to be easier to get around, there's some info floating around on the net on the cbr forums. Out here on my side of the world, there's only one "dealer" that can do it for a big chunk of change. If you wanna DIY it, best to just get a new harness/ignition and keys from a wrecker or something being parted out. Least complicated way.

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post #9 of 34 Old 10-05-2010, 03:25 PM
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Hey Farab, I'm assuming you have an original or working key at the moment and just want another one? Seems to be easier if that's the case.

"Towards the end of the vid, it looks like she may have had a bafflectomy." - MarylandMike
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post #10 of 34 Old 10-05-2010, 03:52 PM Thread Starter
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Yes, lost a key last week and thankfully still had my spare. i have bought a blank and need to have it cut and then take it bacl to a dealer for programming. Just wondered if it could be done DIY.

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post #11 of 34 Old 10-05-2010, 04:36 PM
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no idea about HISS, but here in the US we have passkey II/III for cars. programming them is usually some magical incantation of swinging a chicken around your head counter clockwise while facing 28 degrees on a tuesday afternoon on a month with a blue moon, insert key turn to on, stomp your feet, clap your hands, start vehicle, do the hokey pokey, turn off, wait 20 seconds, turn back on, put your left foot in, put your left foot out... I think you get the idea

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post #12 of 34 Old 10-05-2010, 08:24 PM
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with the hiss you have to take it to the dealer, in oz its about $60.00.
I misplaced my keys and had to buy the barrel, keys, reader, and ecu, $600 bucks from a wrecker.
Found the keys 2 months later (groan ) so took it all back and swapped for a rear wheel to run a soft tyre for the track.
Expensive excersize, a lesson learned.
So it is worth getting a spare

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post #13 of 34 Old 10-05-2010, 08:42 PM
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Dealer job I'm afraid.

BUT - I am sure it is like my XR6 key coding - there is a combo of key turns & button pushing etc that you do on the XR6 to code new or recode a set of existing keys.

I bet the Hornet is the same.


Good question though - hopefully someone knows.

So why did the USA not get HISS? Are you all so nice that people don't steal bikes?

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post #14 of 34 Old 10-05-2010, 08:54 PM
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Here in the Socialist Republic of California we got catalytic converters and evaporative emmision canisters instead.


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post #15 of 34 Old 10-05-2010, 08:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by voodooridr View Post
Here in the Socialist Republic of California we got catalytic converters and evaporative emmision canisters instead.
Yep. Makes bikes too heavy to steal.

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post #16 of 34 Old 10-05-2010, 09:27 PM
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I guess you could say used bike are relatively cheap enough that if your does get stolen the. You can replace it no prob. Also the insurance companies do give a discount for it so why out Ito there. I have seen some Honda fans online request Honda bring it over but they never got a response back from Honda about the issue.

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post #17 of 34 Old 10-06-2010, 02:55 AM
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Anybody remember who the dealer techs are on this board?

"Towards the end of the vid, it looks like she may have had a bafflectomy." - MarylandMike
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post #18 of 34 Old 10-06-2010, 03:04 AM
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post #19 of 34 Old 10-06-2010, 03:03 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AllanB View Post
Dealer job I'm afraid.

BUT - I am sure it is like my XR6 key coding - there is a combo of key turns & button pushing etc that you do on the XR6 to code new or recode a set of existing keys.

I bet the Hornet is the same.


Good question though - hopefully someone knows.

So why did the USA not get HISS? Are you all so nice that people don't steal bikes?
Yes, took it to the dealer. Was only $NZ40, took them about 30 minutes of faffing around. I saw him connect an external 12v source to the bike...He did bring up some info on his PC, it looked like an extract out of the service manual.

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post #20 of 34 Old 10-06-2010, 03:10 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by beefsalad View Post
That seems to be what the mechanic did yesterday.

Taken from that link:
1. Obtain a new transponder key.
2. Grind the key in accordance with the shape of the original key (no shit!).
3. Apply a 12v battery voltage to the ignition pluse generator lines of the ignition control module (ICM) using the special tool (ignore this, it can be done/bodged at home).
4. Turn the ignition switch ON with the original key. The immobiliser indicator comes on and it remains on.
4a. The code of the original key is recognised by the ICM.
4b. If there is any problem in the system, the system will enter diagnostic mode (displaying the diagnostic code)
5. Disconnect the red (+'ve) for two seconds or more, then connect it again. The indicator comes on, then blinks four times repeatedly.
5a. The ICM is now in registration mode.
6. Turn the ignition switch OFF and remove original key.
7. Turn the ignition switch ON withnew key or spare key. The indicator comes on and then blinks four times repeatedly.
7a. The new key is now registered with the ICM.
7b. If there is any problem with registration, the system will enter diagno... you get the picture.
8. Repeat steps 6 & 7 for up to 3 extra keys.
9. Turn OFF the ignition. Remove the special tool (or the bodgy thing you used at home!). Reconnect the pulse generator plug ends.

Can anyone show us a pic of step #3?

Looking at the service manual, pg 17-6, is this it? Which 2 wires do you connect the 12V to?

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post #21 of 34 Old 10-06-2010, 03:12 PM
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That's the stuff I found when I searched. It would be nice to have the details that you need.

"Towards the end of the vid, it looks like she may have had a bafflectomy." - MarylandMike
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post #22 of 34 Old 10-06-2010, 03:17 PM Thread Starter
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That's the stuff I found when I searched. It would be nice to have the details that you need.
It does seem to be the alternator wire plugs that he disconnected and attached the 12V to, from where I was standing, I'd just like to be sure.

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post #23 of 34 Old 10-06-2010, 04:24 PM
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There is an easier way to do this if you don't want to spend major bucks -- make as many duplicates of the key as you want using non chipped keys, then take the chipped key and duct tape it to the underside of the upper triple clamp as close to the charging coil / antenna as possible (around the ignition switch). It now has a permanently attached code to satisfy the ECU, and any properly cut key will work.

Immobilizers make sense on cars, but given the ease of throwing the bike in the back of a truck and driving off it wouldn't seem to be much of a deterrent to theft except for the casual thief looking for a joyride.

Rob

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post #24 of 34 Old 10-06-2010, 04:30 PM
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Will that work? If you look at a HISS unit the key is sunk down into the coil. Might be worth a try to verify.

I don't know if I like the idea of a key taped onto a bike though. Could you just cut the threads off the taped key?

"Towards the end of the vid, it looks like she may have had a bafflectomy." - MarylandMike
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post #25 of 34 Old 10-06-2010, 11:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robtharalson View Post
There is an easier way to do this if you don't want to spend major bucks -- make as many duplicates of the key as you want using non chipped keys, then take the chipped key and duct tape it to the underside of the upper triple clamp as close to the charging coil / antenna as possible (around the ignition switch). It now has a permanently attached code to satisfy the ECU, and any properly cut key will work.

Immobilizers make sense on cars, but given the ease of throwing the bike in the back of a truck and driving off it wouldn't seem to be much of a deterrent to theft except for the casual thief looking for a joyride.

Rob
Presto! Now thats an easy solution right there, if it works.

...we need someone to verify this. Farab?

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post #26 of 34 Old 10-07-2010, 11:35 AM Thread Starter
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Presto! Now thats an easy solution right there, if it works.

...we need someone to verify this. Farab?
Yes, you go ahead and try this and report back!

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post #27 of 34 Old 10-07-2010, 01:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HondaJim View Post
Will that work? If you look at a HISS unit the key is sunk down into the coil. Might be worth a try to verify.

I don't know if I like the idea of a key taped onto a bike though. Could you just cut the threads off the taped key?
Did some research and found a couple extra conditions that may be necessary to get it to work: First, the receiver coil must have the key more or less centered in the coil to get sufficient power to wake up the chip in the key. Second, apparently the metal part of the key needs to be grounded for it to work.

Here's what I would do -- remove the receiver assembly (replacing it with a U.S. spec trim ring) and stuff it someplace inconspicuous. If having a full function key on your bike makes you nervous grind the wards (cuts) off first, ground it to a Green wire, then attach it to the center of the coil assembly. This should be sufficient to permanently bypass the H.I.S.S. system.

When I was working on Honda cars I saw quite a number of them with a spare chipped key taped to the coil unit inside the steering column cover, and non chipped keys would work just fine. Apparently the motorcycle receiver is more sensitive, to the point of not functioning if an aftermarket chrome trim ring is applied to the coil bezel.

Well, that's all I could find thus far. I hope it helps.

Rob
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File Type: jpg HISS key set.jpg (24.2 KB, 9 views)

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post #28 of 34 Old 10-07-2010, 02:43 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robtharalson View Post
Did some research and found a couple extra conditions that may be necessary to get it to work: First, the receiver coil must have the key more or less centered in the coil to get sufficient power to wake up the chip in the key. Second, apparently the metal part of the key needs to be grounded for it to work.

Here's what I would do -- remove the receiver assembly (replacing it with a U.S. spec trim ring) and stuff it someplace inconspicuous. If having a full function key on your bike makes you nervous grind the wards (cuts) off first, ground it to a Green wire, then attach it to the center of the coil assembly. This should be sufficient to permanently bypass the H.I.S.S. system.

When I was working on Honda cars I saw quite a number of them with a spare chipped key taped to the coil unit inside the steering column cover, and non chipped keys would work just fine. Apparently the motorcycle receiver is more sensitive, to the point of not functioning if an aftermarket chrome trim ring is applied to the coil bezel.

Well, that's all I could find thus far. I hope it helps.

Rob
Would you know what part of the (I'm assuming) the alternator wires the machanic that did my key, energized?

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post #29 of 34 Old 10-07-2010, 04:21 PM
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Immobilizers make sense on cars, but given the ease of throwing the bike in the back of a truck
BINGO!

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post #30 of 34 Old 10-07-2010, 07:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Farab View Post
Would you know what part of the (I'm assuming) the alternator wires the machanic that did my key, energized?
According to my research, and since the description I found is exactly the same as was posted here I assume they were from the same place, the connector the tech applied power to was the ignition pulse line on the right side of the frame, with a Yellow and White / Yellow wire. I don't know if the W/Y wire is a ground or floated lead (it shares with the cam pulse generator), but if it was designed for programming it is safe to assume applying battery voltage to it won't blow something up. I am, however, glad I don't have to play with it!

Good luck.

Rob

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post #31 of 34 Old 10-08-2010, 03:49 AM
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Outstanding! I'm always so impressed with how well you guys know these bikes. I have problems remembering which screw came from where when I do something as simple as change oil! ...I wouldn't dream of fiddling with the electronics.

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post #32 of 34 Old 10-08-2010, 11:56 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the info!

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post #33 of 34 Old 10-08-2010, 12:14 PM
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well, now that THAT's solved...

this is the only help I have to offer on the H.I.S.S.

Spoiler:


Probably not gonna help much

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post #34 of 34 Old 10-08-2010, 12:53 PM Thread Starter
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