Powercommander 3 installation on 2006 honda 919 - Wrist Twisters
 
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post #1 of 12 Old 05-01-2018, 07:49 PM Thread Starter
Tirone
 
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Powercommander 3 installation on 2006 honda 919

Hey guys just joined wristtwisters! Was curious if anyone has a post about installing a powercommander 3 on a 2006 919?

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post #2 of 12 Old 05-02-2018, 02:01 AM
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post #3 of 12 Old 05-02-2018, 03:18 AM
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G'day.
A Google search for honda cb919 power commander install will give you dynajets install instructions as a pdf. A search for power commander install wrist twisters and you'll get results for this site. Also check out the cold start issue and it's fix on this site, as it can happen after install.
Good luck.

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post #4 of 12 Old 05-02-2018, 06:30 AM Thread Starter
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Great info! Thanks guys!

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post #5 of 12 Old 05-02-2018, 07:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The Naked Crew View Post
Hey guys just joined wristtwisters! Was curious if anyone has a post about installing a powercommander 3 on a 2006 919?
While your question is about install as compared to use, I'm posting this now:
If you do indeed have a 3 as compared to the later 3usb, depending on the vintage of computer you have, you will likely need a serial port adaptor to match the usb of your computer to the usb of the PC'.
Historically, for the adaptors were "driver" sensitive, and Belkin's were the best. Short story, if you have a PC3 and need to use a usb x sp adaptor, be aware that the PC3 specifically can have problems with the PC3 software if the adaptor/driver combination is not suitable. The PC3 won't get ruined, it just won't work with the software.
Of course, if you have a PC3usb, then all of this goes away.
Beyond that, welcome aboard!

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post #6 of 12 Old 05-02-2018, 08:00 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the heads up! Thankfully I did purchase the PC3 with usb.

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post #7 of 12 Old 05-02-2018, 12:48 PM
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Also, make sure that your Power Commander has the updated firmware before you install it in the bike! If your firmware is too old, you won't be able to use the Power Commander software and won't be able to upload maps or change anything. Test out the Power Commander and feel free to reach out if you need help.

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post #8 of 12 Old 05-02-2018, 03:29 PM
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I would recommend not using the positap thingy to hook the power lead for the pc111usb up with. It's a known source of problems. It can corrode and cut through the wire causing loss of power to the unit. Splice and solder this wire.

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post #9 of 12 Old 05-02-2018, 03:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DSB_ESQ View Post
Also, make sure that your Power Commander has the updated firmware before you install it in the bike! If your firmware is too old, you won't be able to use the Power Commander software and won't be able to upload maps or change anything. Test out the Power Commander and feel free to reach out if you need help.
As of Jan 14 of 2018, the most recent (non-Harley) Fuel Firmware is Version 2.3.2 of May 13, 2010.
As of Jan 14 of 2018, the most recent (non-Harley)Ignition Firmware is Version 2.3.0.0, also of May 13, 2010.
Unless one has a Hub and an Ignition Module connected to their 919's PC3usb, only the Fuel Firmware version has to be considered.

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post #10 of 12 Old 05-02-2018, 03:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Islandboy View Post
I would recommend not using the positap thingy to hook the power lead for the pc111usb up with. It's a known source of problems. It can corrode and cut through the wire causing loss of power to the unit. Splice and solder this wire.
What you say is very true, BUT a really bad solder job can be worse, including leading to brittle fracture over time.
In addition, that wire is of such a small gauge, it is super easy for someone inexperienced to break a wire while trying to do a mid wire stripping of the insulation.
I was real leery of wrecking that wire so I went crimped , as in used the T Tap that was in the kit.
I was so scared to crush the source wire, I didn't get a proper connection first time and had to crimp it again with more force to properly break through the insulation and get to the copper.
Note the installation instructions do call for the use of dialectric grease, which I think aids as an anti-corrosion element.

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post #11 of 12 Old 05-02-2018, 04:12 PM
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I agree with you Mcromo. That little job was a stress. The wire is so small. Both ways have their pros and cons. Maybe go with the crimp connector first and if it plays up down the track consider the splice and solder.

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post #12 of 12 Old 05-02-2018, 06:03 PM
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I will add. I followed dynajets install instructions regarding the crimp connector, grease and all that.
Mine did not fail.
I only went and spliced and soldered it in an attempt to fix my cold start issue. Or at least eliminate a potential problem/cause. I had read some wrist twisters posts on those crimps failing and causing problems. But mine was fine.
I will admit being anxious about using that type of guillotine crimp. The wire you have to crimp is bloody small. I was freaking out even more doing the splice and solder.
It plays in the back of my mind too. When I'm out riding, a long way from home. I'm pretty sure your bike stops when that join shits itself.
I just wish those tiny wires were a bit thicker.
Found this.
http://tech.bareasschoppers.com/reso...ap-connectors/

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