Powder coating some parts...... - Wrist Twisters
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post #1 of 55 Old 01-07-2007, 02:36 PM Thread Starter
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Powder coating some parts......

Well, just got done powder coating some parts. I'm not done yet. I pretty much want to "black" everything out. Here are some pictures of what i have done so far. Black wrinkle is the color i'm using. I'm just starting to powder coat on my own. Found an electric oven, bought the gun and powder. This is a lot easier than i thought...fun to do also....Plus in 30 mins. you can have a part to put on your bike.....

here are some pics of what I've done so far...






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post #2 of 55 Old 01-07-2007, 02:42 PM
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Wow, that is so cool!

How durable is powder coating? Wondering if it's durable enough for gun parts.

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post #3 of 55 Old 01-07-2007, 02:53 PM
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Wow! That looks sweet. What kind of temperatures have to be achieved for curing the powder coating? That would look sick on my asphalt '02.

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post #4 of 55 Old 01-07-2007, 02:59 PM
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I helped a friend start his powdercoating business about five years ago, and I can honestly say that is some of the coolest stuff on the planet. It takes a grinder to remove the coating if the metal is prepped correctly. We used two chromoly steel pipes powdered, and banged together to demonstrate the durablity. You have to cure it for about 15-20 minutes in a 400 degree oven, and you can get pretty twisted with color combos and half-curing to achieve some custom results. Warble, you should invest in a thickness meter if you are doing it yourself. Try for 5-6 mils of thickness on average. Too thin, and you run the risk of flaking.

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post #5 of 55 Old 01-07-2007, 03:10 PM Thread Starter
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Sniper, I would say yes it would work no problem for your gun parts.

Wisco919, I did these parts for 10 mins @450 degrees, then 20 mins at 400. And yea, i kinda wish my bike was the original color like yours cause this would look sick as hell....But, i think the yellow and black goes good together also.....

Ridgerunner, how much do these thickness meter run?? Sounds like a good investment.

I'm going to do the chrome ring around the headlight, grab bar, brake and clutch lever, my lower fork tubes. Also will add some black rear view mirrors. Probably my rear brake lever and my shifter.....Oh and also my rims....

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post #6 of 55 Old 01-07-2007, 03:26 PM
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Don't exactly know how much, as it was company money. I would guess a couple hundred dollars. Your only concern is flaking if too thin, and orange peel/runs if too thick. It is not nearly as obvious with the textured coatings like the kind you are using, but you can easily see flaws if you start using high gloss, and candy colors. Just be sure to prepare the surface well, so the powder adheres correctly.

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post #7 of 55 Old 01-07-2007, 03:51 PM Thread Starter
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On all my parts i sand blasted them. Then i used alcohol to wipe them down with....Then powdered them.....

I'll take any tips and tricks......

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post #8 of 55 Old 01-07-2007, 04:14 PM
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We had a huge wash bay, as the second owner built dragsters for a living. If it was steel, it would get a caustic bath with light sanding in rough spots and around welds. Out of the bath and into the oven to dry, and gas out any oils from the metal forming. If we were spraying aluminum, I would use a caustic agent that lightly etched the surface with a clean water bath and bake afterwards. Great care was to be used with the aluminum, as the caustic would actually start smoking the metal, and I wore HEAVY protective equipment. What you are doing sounds fine. When/if you ever do lighter colors such as white or yellow, anything on the surface of the metal can/will show through if you don't remove it thoroughly. I would use acetone in a squirt bottle to remove sharpie marker from bare metal. You would be shocked to see marker lines just appear on bare metal when acetone was applied. The baking process can/will bring anything in the metal to the surface.

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post #9 of 55 Old 01-07-2007, 05:14 PM
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Adam, gotta hand it to ya again as one of this forum's 919 innovators!

That color scheme is gonna look too cool for words. As they say - a picture is worth a thousand of 'em. The yellow and black will look awesome together but - you are correct sir - if you choose to go back with gray or black on the painted parts? All I can say is WOW!

Glad to see ya posting up again. Got your email from earlier in the week. Took a few days off so didn't see it till recently. I'll be in touch.

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post #10 of 55 Old 01-07-2007, 06:20 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks guys for the compliments. I've been here watching all the conversations. Just been quiet.

Look forward to hearing from you Razor.....

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post #11 of 55 Old 01-08-2007, 04:30 AM
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Very cool!

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post #12 of 55 Old 01-08-2007, 06:12 AM
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Gorgeous! This is exactly what I want to do with mine, but I'm unwilling to spend the time and money to do it. Very nice Adam!

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post #13 of 55 Old 01-08-2007, 01:32 PM
 
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Anti-Shadows is doing this also except he hasn't done the swingarm like you: https://www.wristtwisters.com/forum/s...?t=3373&page=6 (scroll 2/3 of the way down) Both bikes look awesome, I would probably be doing the same thing if I had the resources.

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post #14 of 55 Old 01-09-2007, 04:02 PM
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Everything looks amazing! Great job!!
I plan to eventually get the same parts powdercoated that you've done. Probably semi-flat black. The rims are already done gloss black and it's a HUGE difference over stock.

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post #15 of 55 Old 01-09-2007, 05:56 PM
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Adam, a tip of the hat to you- looks very nice. I wish I could do that to some of the grey bits. I am going for gold/asphalt- the grey seems to stick out sort of like an afterthought. Anyways, can you post some more pics as you go?

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post #16 of 55 Old 01-09-2007, 07:17 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the kind words guys. I just got done putting the swing arm back on. Thought i would take a couple pics. Also painted my honda windscreen black.

Parts left to do are my rims, tripple clamp, brake, grab bar and clutch lever. Oh and my forks. I want to take them apart anyway to service them.

Here's some more pictures....








Before shot and trackday shot.....



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post #17 of 55 Old 01-09-2007, 08:13 PM
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Lookin' good Adam, both on and off the track.

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post #18 of 55 Old 01-09-2007, 09:11 PM
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Wow, it really looks great, nice job on a it!

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post #19 of 55 Old 01-09-2007, 09:16 PM
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Thanks for posting more pictures. I enjoyed reading about your project. Good job!

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post #20 of 55 Old 01-10-2007, 06:12 AM
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post #21 of 55 Old 01-10-2007, 07:44 AM
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Looks great I did some parts in gloss black on my asphalt









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post #22 of 55 Old 01-10-2007, 07:46 AM
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Beautiful!!!!!!!!!

Adam, what spray gun did you pick up?

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post #23 of 55 Old 01-10-2007, 08:19 AM Thread Starter
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Bigdaa,

Here is the gun i used. I got it from Eastwoodco.com. 100 bucks.
http://www.eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp?i...erID=68&KICKER

Lord Duckhunter, hmmm now seeing your side cover makes me want to do mine...hmmm maybe the valve cover as well....

Maybe I should get the bike painted gloss black now....lol...

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post #24 of 55 Old 01-10-2007, 03:29 PM
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what type of oven did you use? i read a bit about the powder system you're using, and it says electric oven or toaster oven, but also says that you should use a dedicated oven. can i bake this stuff in the kitchen, or will it screw something up?

...jotham

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post #25 of 55 Old 01-10-2007, 04:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by j919 View Post
what type of oven did you use? i read a bit about the powder system you're using, and it says electric oven or toaster oven, but also says that you should use a dedicated oven. can i bake this stuff in the kitchen, or will it screw something up?

...jotham
Yup, it will make your food taste like powdercoat.

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post #26 of 55 Old 01-10-2007, 05:33 PM Thread Starter
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Yea J919, you want to use a seperate oven. I picked up one for 50 bucks. Plus the powder smokes when your baking it. Probably stink up the house.....

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post #27 of 55 Old 01-10-2007, 05:58 PM
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It's also good practice to hang the pieces. Find some high temp tape, and tape over any holes that would require tight tolerances such as axles, bearing fittings, etc... The tape we used was a transparent green color, and we had an assortment of silicone plugs for different sized openings.

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post #28 of 55 Old 01-11-2007, 06:20 AM
 
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Parts look great!

On your windscreen - how and what did you paint it with? My bike is gloss black and I'm thinking about painting my Honda screen too.

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post #29 of 55 Old 01-11-2007, 06:52 AM
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Quote:
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AWARBLE

Parts look great!

On your windscreen - how and what did you paint it with? My bike is gloss black and I'm thinking about painting my Honda screen too.
Somehting along these lines? Go to my 919 page http://m51142.googlepages.com/919page scroll down to find the how-to.


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post #30 of 55 Old 01-11-2007, 09:28 AM
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Do the swingarm!!
Does the high temp screw up the heat treatment of the alloy?

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post #31 of 55 Old 01-11-2007, 02:01 PM Thread Starter
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I don't think 20 mins @400 degrees is going to hurt anything...

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post #32 of 55 Old 01-12-2007, 11:59 AM
 
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I don't think 20 mins @400 degrees is going to hurt anything...
Nice pics. I took my swing and wheels to a painter last week. All becomes black (in the wheel case "again"). I had the sides polished but did not really like it.

I´ll think I have to really study the powder coating since it would be really nice to have all the small parts and bit coated...

Marko

some pics at:
www.markosaren.com

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post #33 of 55 Old 01-12-2007, 01:06 PM
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Hey awarble, what do you think of this then?
Peter


Knowledge Article from www.Key-to-Metals.com
Printable Version

Annealing of Aluminum and Aluminum Alloys

Abstract:
Work hardening is used extensively to produce strain-hardened tempers of the non-heat-treatable alloys. The severely cold worked or full-hard condition (H18 temper) is usually obtained with cold work equal to about 75% reduction in area. The H19 temper identifies products with substantially higher strengths and greater reductions in area. The H16, H14, and H12 tempers are obtained with lesser amounts of cold working, and they represent three-quarter-hard, half-hard, and quarter-hard conditions, respectively.

Work hardening is used extensively to produce strain-hardened tempers of the non-heat-treatable alloys. The severely cold worked or full-hard condition (H18 temper) is usually obtained with cold work equal to about 75% reduction in area. The H19 temper identifies products with substantially higher strengths and greater reductions in area. The H16, H14, and H12 tempers are obtained with lesser amounts of cold working, and they represent three-quarter-hard, half-hard, and quarter-hard conditions, respectively.

A combination of strain hardening and partial annealing is used to produce the H28, H26, H24, and H22 series of tempers; the products are strain hardened more than is required to achieve the desired properties and then are reduced in strength by partial annealing.

A series of strain-hardened and stabilized tempers - H38, H36, H34, and H32 - are employed for aluminum-magnesium alloys. In the strain-hardened condition, these alloys tend to age soften at room temperature. Therefore, they are usually heated at a low temperature to complete the age-softening process and to provide stable mechanical properties and improved working characteristics.

Products hardened by cold working can be restored to the O temper, a soft, ductile condition, by annealing. Annealing eliminates strain hardening, as well as the changes in structure that are the result of cold working.

The distorted, dislocated structure resulting from cold working of aluminum is less stable than the strain-free, annealed state, to which it tends to revert. In zone-refined aluminum, this reversion may take place at room temperature. Lower-purity aluminum and commercial aluminum alloys undergo these structural changes only with annealing at elevated temperatures. Accompanying the structural reversion are changes in the various properties affected by cold working. These changes occur in several stages, according to temperature or time, and have led to the concept of different annealing mechanisms or processes. The first of these, occurring at the lowest temperatures and shortest times of annealing, is known as the recovery process.


Recovery
Structural changes occurring during the recovery of polygonization and subgrain formation has been obtained by x-ray diffraction and confirmed with the electron microscope. The electron micrographs may show the change in structure that accompanies advanced recovery. The reduction in the number of dislocations is greatest at the center of the grain fragments, producing a subgrain structure with networks or groups of dislocations at the subgrain boundaries. With increasing time and temperature of heating, polygonization becomes more nearly perfect and the subgrain size gradually increases. In this stage, many of the subgrains appear to have boundaries that are free of dislocation tangles and concentrations.
The decrease in dislocation density caused by recovery-type annealing produces a decrease in strength and other property changes. The effects on the tensile properties of 1100 alloy are shown in Fig. 1. At temperatures through 450°F (230°C), softening is by a recovery mechanism. It is characterized by an initial rapid decrease in strength and a slow, asymptotic approach to a strength that is lower, the higher the temperature.

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post #34 of 55 Old 01-12-2007, 02:00 PM Thread Starter
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That article doesn't apply to castings from what I can tell. Think of the temps that they put that swing arm under when they welded it together.

Plus, how long have them been powder coating casted aluminum parts? I have never seen anything on something cracking or cracking with just 400 or so degrees. For only 30 mins top.

Bottom line, is i'm not worried my swing arm is going to fall apart because powder coated it......

Just my 2 cents...

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post #35 of 55 Old 01-12-2007, 03:16 PM
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Gotta say, the yellow & black looks just right... It IS a Hornet!

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post #36 of 55 Old 01-12-2007, 05:09 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by awarble View Post
That article doesn't apply to castings from what I can tell. Think of the temps that they put that swing arm under when they welded it together.

Plus, how long have them been powder coating casted aluminum parts? I have never seen anything on something cracking or cracking with just 400 or so degrees. For only 30 mins top.

Bottom line, is i'm not worried my swing arm is going to fall apart because powder coated it......

Just my 2 cents...
Note to self: slow down when typing and proof read your comments....

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post #37 of 55 Old 02-19-2007, 02:26 PM Thread Starter
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Just finished my F4I fork tubes. Should have my forks back together this weekend. Also repowdered my triple clamp. I missed some spots the first time. So now it's good to go.

Plus I should be getting back my front fender soon. It will be Yellow also. My bike will finally match...lol...

By the way, taking the forks apart is really easy. And I'm guessing the 919 forks are just like the F4I's.

and yes i know my chain is loose...lol. will be taking the rims off soon...

This is how it looks now....




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post #38 of 55 Old 02-19-2007, 02:44 PM
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Those look very pro Adam!

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post #39 of 55 Old 02-19-2007, 03:22 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
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Those look very pro Adam!
Thank you sir!!

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post #40 of 55 Old 02-19-2007, 03:58 PM
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Very nice! I'm not sure I would go through the trouble of getting the forks done, but I would put in the work for the triple clamps. You might have one of the most unique 919s on WT. The only thing you're missing is a completely different headlamp.

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