Paint - Wrist Twisters
 
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post #1 of 34 Old 09-21-2010, 05:25 PM Thread Starter
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Paint

Previous owner had the tank only painted...it is flat and has marks on it from me trying to gas drippings out...i made it much worse and have not been able to get the marks out at all... pretty ticked about it. so i am thinking of having the tank/plastics painted... anyone here done that willing to share a ballpark estimate? where did you go? I am thinking going gloss black, right now it is matte black... i guess i have open possibilites but i like the black and figured it might be cheaper to keep it that dark color.

for those that have gloss, are your decals cleared over on the tank? my previous bikes were like that, this one just has the decals on top...expecting them to peel any day now...

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post #2 of 34 Old 09-21-2010, 05:36 PM
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Cost me about 20$, one can of primer, two cans of black, some sand paper and scotch brite.

For that price you can change the colour of the bike every year.

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post #3 of 34 Old 09-21-2010, 05:38 PM Thread Starter
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didnt got to gloss i presume, what brand paint did you use?

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post #4 of 34 Old 09-21-2010, 06:04 PM
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Rustoleum flat black, but you can get gloss black and then use a clear coat.

Just practice on something else first. Scuff the paint evenly with scotch brite, clean your piece with Comet to get rid of any wax or soap left-overs, allow to dry thorouly. If any repairs are needed they should be done at this point, then a couple light even coats of primer, 2-3 even coats of paint and then a couple coats of clear. If the end result is a little rough, just wet sand with 1200 grit.

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post #5 of 34 Old 09-21-2010, 06:21 PM
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Rattle can paint jobs can look great if the prep and work afterward is right, but they always seem to smudge with gas drippings. Even when clearcoated it's just doesn't hold up as well as a professional job shot from a gun with the right paint/sealer. At least that has been my experience to date.

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post #6 of 34 Old 09-21-2010, 06:37 PM
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I guess I can't comment on the effect of fuel on the paint cause I have this cover on my tank

https://www.wristtwisters.com/f94/bag...hlight=bagster

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post #7 of 34 Old 09-21-2010, 06:42 PM
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WTF, link won't work, try searching bagster tank cover in the naked bike forum

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post #8 of 34 Old 09-21-2010, 06:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Mr T81 View Post
WTF, link won't work, try searching bagster tank cover in the naked bike forum
Fixed for ya

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post #9 of 34 Old 09-21-2010, 07:07 PM
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I had mine done by a pro from a body shop. It cost me $700 but it is tri-colored paint. I have asked about getting my wifes done and the average is $400 and they do all pre work. You have to take all the parts off the bike but that is easy. If you get it done I recommend a total custom color. Why would you go to all that work and $$$ for black. Once you have it done you will need decals. Don't go to the dealer, I have a decal guy that can make you some custom decals at a good price. I had mine made black with silver outline, wife got black with a red outline and I just had some made for a friend black with chrome outline.

Spoiler:

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post #10 of 34 Old 09-21-2010, 07:16 PM
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BTW, a second option for you is to go buy all new parts from your Honda dealer and sell your old parts here to re-coup some of your money. You should be able to get all parts for under $1000 and get to pick any OEM color.

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post #11 of 34 Old 09-21-2010, 08:08 PM Thread Starter
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hmm, well i am on a rattle can kind of budget.... but the gas stain smudge comments are a bit disheartening... i was going to go black with a white racing stripe. i could say i would be extra careful, but i have only filled up twice and gotten gas on it.... even with a boat-load of clear-coat and wax you still think i would get the smudges?

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post #12 of 34 Old 09-21-2010, 08:25 PM
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It's a shame the previous owner didn't seal/clearcoat the new paint for you. I can't imagine that some honda polish or Pledge furniture polish wouldn't remove the drip marks though...dumb question, but soap & water don't help? If you can get the drip marks to go away, you may be able to just do some clearcoat over the top of the current paint (and decals)

I've been thinking about repainting mine in a year or two, either myself or pro... If I do, I'm leaning towards a nice British racing green, maybe with some metal flake, and silver stripes... the possibilities are endless though!





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post #13 of 34 Old 09-21-2010, 09:16 PM
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Here's a site that has the paint....as well on instructions on how to use it step by step. I have not tried it yet, but plan too over the winter. They have quantities from small to large, and it's automtive grade stuff

Honda NH436 Asphalt - ColorRite





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post #14 of 34 Old 09-22-2010, 03:50 AM
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painted mine but i've got a compressor and spraygun.
got the paint from these guys Candy Apple Red Metallic Urethane Basecoat Clear Coat Kit Featuring 5 Star Clear Coat: Automotive Paint, Auto Paint, Car Paint remember that metallics are harder to paint than straight colors.
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post #15 of 34 Old 09-22-2010, 06:13 AM Thread Starter
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yeah, i used honda polish, meg's gold class soap and water...tons of microfiber towels and lots of elbow grease. so do you think the color-rite stuff would be better with regards to gas marks than the stuff i would purchase a home depot or the likes? I did look at that, I have no need to match the honda paint, but if it is going to give me a better quality job, at $33 a can, it is pretty steep, they say I would need 2 cans for the tank, so I have the tail section and a belly pan, that could be 5 cans not to mention base and clear, and i would want to add the white stripe... I would be over $200 in materials there...

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post #16 of 34 Old 09-22-2010, 07:08 AM
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The good thing about the color rite stuff is that its urethane with high solids content. It's highly chemical and uv resistant.

You could probably get acceptable results with rattlecans from home depot if you prep properly and let it cure properly followed by protective wax. But in my experience, home jobs are never as durable as pro jobs. Unless of course you have a full spray booth and curing oven at home.

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post #17 of 34 Old 09-22-2010, 11:33 AM
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Go pro all the way. You are about to have a cold PA winter coming up so you know you can save for it during that time.

Shadow????????? British Racing Green??????????? ON A HONDA??????????? I think you need a Speed Tripple or a T100 Bonnie

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post #18 of 34 Old 09-22-2010, 11:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drewvir View Post
painted mine but i've got a compressor and spraygun.
got the paint from these guys Candy Apple Red Metallic Urethane Basecoat Clear Coat Kit Featuring 5 Star Clear Coat: Automotive Paint, Auto Paint, Car Paint remember that metallics are harder to paint than straight colors.

Nice job BTW. How long did you let the paint cure before putting the parts back on?

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post #19 of 34 Old 09-22-2010, 12:27 PM
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Originally Posted by HondaCrazy View Post
yeah, i used honda polish, meg's gold class soap and water...tons of microfiber towels and lots of elbow grease. so do you think the color-rite stuff would be better with regards to gas marks than the stuff i would purchase a home depot or the likes? I did look at that, I have no need to match the honda paint, but if it is going to give me a better quality job, at $33 a can, it is pretty steep, they say I would need 2 cans for the tank, so I have the tail section and a belly pan, that could be 5 cans not to mention base and clear, and i would want to add the white stripe... I would be over $200 in materials there...

I just so happen to have recently painted my side covers and hugger using all colorite materials. If I would have done it right in the first place, I would have only needed 1 can of color. As it turned out, the first can of color I got was shit. The first side panel got 3 coats of color and I thought it looked ok so I cleared it. It turned out orangey pink. The second side panel got 7 coats of color and wasn't much better. The hugger I cut my losses on and left it, but the side panels got sanded down and redone. The second go only took 3 coats and it turned out really nice. That second can of color coated much better and more evenly. Not sure what the deal with the first can was. Without a paint booth however there is a bit of dust contamination.

Also, it should be noted, I think colorite clear is crap. The paint looked amazing and once I sprayed the clear on, it looked worse. Between that and the dust contamination, if I had to do it again, I would buy the materials ( not clear) and have a pro rattle can it. Or find a pro that would loan me time in a booth to do it, then spray clear for me. Also, not sure I needed the colorite primer either. Don't know much about paint so wanted to be safe.

For the tank, I would definitely go with a pro. I like the glossy mirror finish and I don't think you can get that without a booth and a gun.
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post #20 of 34 Old 09-22-2010, 08:21 PM
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I would go with a urethane job. Do all my own paint work and have spilled a little gas on it now and then, and it doesn't even touch it. I know a guy that would do the black with the white racing stripe for about $225 if your interested. Quality is always the way to go.

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post #21 of 34 Old 09-22-2010, 08:33 PM
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Shadow????????? British Racing Green??????????? ON A HONDA??????????? I think you need a Speed Tripple or a T100 Bonnie
the 919 aka Hornet 900 is sort of a british bike...




lol, Dave....you may not realize that "British Racing Green" is more of a spectrum of green colors, ranging from light grass green (in Crayola terms) to green so dark its almost black...not just one color...

any dark green color is BRG... along with the Hornet thing, it's kind of an inside joke between me and my motorcycle friends in the UK, who first turned me onto this bike. The first time I saw one and rode one was in London. I didn't really think anybody here would question it!

I do like green, though!





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post #22 of 34 Old 09-22-2010, 09:03 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
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I would go with a urethane job. Do all my own paint work and have spilled a little gas on it now and then, and it doesn't even touch it. I know a guy that would do the black with the white racing stripe for about $225 if your interested. Quality is always the way to go.
I assume the guy you know is in Ohio... hoping to find someone close to me...If I could get it done professionally for close to $200, I would definitely go that route, rattle can materials alone will cost about a 1/3 of that.

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post #23 of 34 Old 09-22-2010, 09:06 PM
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I assume the guy you know is in Ohio... hoping to find someone close to me...If I could get it done professionally for close to $200, I would definitely go that route, rattle can materials alone will cost about a 1/3 of that.
Just ride to any local body shop and ask them how much. A lot of painters will do small side jobs like that, for extra cash.

Spoiler:

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post #24 of 34 Old 09-23-2010, 02:03 AM
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Just ride to any local body shop and ask them how much. A lot of painters will do small side jobs like that, for extra cash.
And you can usually get a deal on some leftover paint they have, or wait until they are painting an auto that is the color you want. They can shoot your parts while in the booth with the car.

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post #25 of 34 Old 09-23-2010, 03:51 AM
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Nice job BTW. How long did you let the paint cure before putting the parts back on?
a couple of days, but i did it over the winter so i wasn't in a rush

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post #26 of 34 Old 09-23-2010, 05:27 AM Thread Starter
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yeah, I am looking into local shops today, calling around...i figure gloss black would be pretty easy to scounge up...i just need to decided if i want the stripes painted or decals...

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post #27 of 34 Old 09-23-2010, 07:49 AM
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In person and on the phone are two different things.

Give it that personal touch, and stop by the shops and see their work and operations and if they are D1ckheads then move on, but if you are cool, and they are cool, like stated above, work it out when they are painting a car in the same color and work with them and volunteer that you can work sandpaper for prep.

Just another thought

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post #28 of 34 Old 09-24-2010, 03:12 AM
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Quote:
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I assume the guy you know is in Ohio... hoping to find someone close to me...If I could get it done professionally for close to $200, I would definitely go that route, rattle can materials alone will cost about a 1/3 of that.
Yes, in Ohio. Only a UPS drop away. Have had quite a few guys box up there stuff and send it. Little bit of bubble wrap and some peanuts and its here. Just a thought. About now would definitly be the time to get it done with winter setting in. You might try some local bodyshops and see what you can find. If you don't have any luck, I'm just a PM away

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post #29 of 34 Old 10-01-2010, 03:11 PM
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I was also going to get mine repainted, the original owner dropped it so theres a dent in the tank.

I'm going graphite gray

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post #30 of 34 Old 10-05-2010, 10:40 AM Thread Starter
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leaning towards gloss black with some variation of red striping across the top. have lots of time to think about it, as I have to SAVE and there other things I prioritized for the bike before paint.

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post #31 of 34 Old 12-20-2010, 09:57 PM
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So I didn't quite know where to post this information, so I guess I'll post it here.

A friend of mine is a professional painter and I've been talking to him about painting my newly acquired 919 a pearl white and powder coat as much of the other metal a flat black. Anyways, he sent me an email describing a lot of things that you can consider when looking into paint. I thought it was very good information so I thought I would pass it on as I know a lot of people have considered custom paint jobs. ENJOY!

------------------------------------------------------------
Before we get into the products I will be showing you, let me give you a rundown of what is available in the paint world as far as types of paints and paint systems.

First of all there are some terms I will be using, here are the defenitions.

Light Fast-Ability: To maintain color after being exposed to light (sun) for a period of time. The more light fast the product the longer it will resist fading.

Single Stage Paint System: A paint that has a base and a hardner usually will not need to be clear coated, but will not be as protected.

Dual stage paint system: A system in which a base coat color is sprayed no hardener added then clear coat is added for protection.

Durability & Longevity: The ability of paint to last in its surroundings mainly road debris (rocks, sand, rain, salt) etc.

Sheen: How shiny the paint will be for example flat or glossy, there is no standard in the coatings industry so for all intensive purposes you will want a gloss or a super gloss for a nice shiny finish. When they talk about flat paint like hot rod flat it is usually a satin finish. Mostly the simplest measurement of sheen goes like this (measured in percent of refractured light back compared to the the angle that it enters)
Flat 0-9 percent refractory
Matte 10-25 percent refractory
Satins 26-40 percent refractory
Semi gloss 41-69 percent refractory
Gloss 70-89 percent refractory
Super gloss 90 percent refractory and above
Most automotive paints fit into the super gloss category but are usually only called gloss

Alkyds: Oil based paints used mainly in industrial not used in automotive rustoleum is an alkyd.

Acrylic laquers: Old school, not very durable, not very light-fast, super gloss show room finish.

Acrylic Enamel: Used as a single stage system always uses a acrylic paint and an oil derived isocyanate hardener, not often clear coated because of compatibility semi durable not very light fast come in a variety of gloss levels

Urethane single stage: Used as a single stage system uses polyester or certain acrylic paint and high purified de-isocyanate hardener, not often clear coated but usually compatible more durable than acrylic enamel semi light fast come in a variety of gloss levels.

Urethane base coat: Used in dual stage system and is not an effective coating unless clear coated is an air converted product unlike single stage urethane which are chemically transformed. Gloss level is usually lower than gloss so that it can be clear coated easier.

Clear coat: There are many types of clear coat ranging from acrylic enamel to Urethane (hardened) different formulas affect the quality and durability polyurethane is commonly used in automotive but it is urethane paint. Clear coats have different additives. Clear coats are basically the same as the paints in which category they belong only without any of the color pigment.

Midcoat clear: Usually a urethane base coat without pigment used so that you can spray over graphics so that you can tape over. Must be clear-coated.

Candy coat: High concentration of pigment in a urethane paint give deep color and allow light to pass through because they are transparent.

Additives: Affect the overall effect of the paint metallics, pearls and chamellions usually coated silica in different shapes sizes and the coating on top of the silica crystals affects the effect of the paint because of how it interacts with light. There are thousands of different types of additives and the cost and complexity to make the crystals affects the price. There are other types of additives like thermo-chromatic and phosphorescent to name a few.

Here are some links to some paint.

This first one is a full kit of acrylic urethane paint and clear one gallon of each and all the reducers and hardeners with it. I figure you will need a quart and a half of each so this is more paint than you need but the prices might be close compared to local paint stores if parts are already a light color like white or light gray then you may only need one quart kit of color. Add more clear for more protection at least 2 quarts. This is the cheapest for what you get anywhere.
Urethane Base Coat / Clear Coat Auto Paint Kits with Starfire Clear: Automotive Paint, Auto Paint, Car Paint

The next set of paints are from tcpglobal.com. The platinum white pearl base coast will need clear coat also.
Item Detail

The next set of paints are additives so you can make your own mixtures of paints, they can be added to any paint or clear coat. These products allow you to buy a regular color of paint or plain clear and you can add these products to make your own custom paint. It can be a less expensive way to make pearlescent or flaked paints:
Custom Paint | Pearl Paint | Candy Paint | Metal Flake | Temperature Change | Auto Paint

So here are a few options that may give you some ideas. Paint seems very simple but there is alot to consider.

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2004 Honda Shadow Aero - Black & Silver (Sold)
2002 Honda 919 - Pearl White (Sold)
2007.5 Aprilia Tuono 1000R - Black & Silver


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post #32 of 34 Old 12-21-2010, 02:40 PM
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You could get a cheap gun and this duplicolor paint. Its cheap, ready to spray and so far it holds up well to gasoline drips. I painted my race bike with it 3 years ago and have not had any problems with gasoline damage. You can get it at any parts store. A cheapo HVLP gun and you ready to go.

Easy winter project to keep you busy and learning something useful. If you F it up, start over. Or get it painted by a pro anyway. This stuff is cheap enough to give it a try.

PaintShop Custom Colors

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post #33 of 34 Old 02-18-2011, 06:32 PM
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Dident want to start a new thread so I will post my question here,

For those who have the matte black 919, if I paint my bike that color, can I still add decals to the paint or will it not stick like my dad keeps telling me...lol

Just wanted to know before I paint it.

thx

"You live more in five minutes on a bike like this going flat out than some people do in a lifetime" - Burt Munro
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post #34 of 34 Old 02-19-2011, 05:43 PM
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If they are quality decals, they will stick. Look at it this way, the worst that could happen, is they fall off.

When the green flag drops, the bullsh!t stops
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