Operation Mandarinia : Track fueled 919 - Wrist Twisters
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post #1 of 43 Old 10-26-2019, 01:57 PM Thread Starter
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Operation Mandarinia : Track fueled 919

OPERATION MANDARINIA


Hello and welcome to my build thread for my 2007 Hornet 919.

During the winter of 2019/2020 I will enhance and tweak my Hornet to achieve the best suspension, braking and handling characteristics I can within my student budget. The main components of the build are :
.
  • RC51 Front end w/ Ohlins valves
  • Ohlins rear shock
  • CBR600RR Front calipers
  • Brembo 320mm Series ORO rotors
  • FactoryPro shift kit

To achieve all the things listed, I have researched, read and dug around on this forum all the parts and details needed to execute the changes. I will document every step of the journey and explain my reasoning as best as I can while doing so.

I know the 919 is not the optimal track weapon because of it's poor anti-squat geometry and relaxed head angle, but I just love the 919. As soon as I got on it, I fell in love with its dynamics. I want to make this into a competent commuter I can take to the track and in the twisties without breaking a sweat.

Here is the complete list of things I need to either buy, make or install to make my project happen :
.
  • Kyle Racing 17/44 520 Chain
  • Ohlins rear shock
  • CBR600RR Caliper rebuild
  • Rear caliper Rebuild
  • Front Master Rebuild
  • Rear Master Rebuild
  • Venhill Lines / Hel
  • Factory Pro Shift kit
  • Paint Pulsar cover
  • Tail tidy
  • Turn signals
  • Starter valve synchro
  • Throttle position Sync
  • Power commander 3 install
  • Valve check + Spark plugs
  • Michelin PR2 Tires
    .
    RC51 Specific
    .
  • RC51 SP2 Forks
  • CBR929 Lower Triple
  • 919 Stem (lathe)
  • CBR929 TopYokes UK
  • Honda emblem
  • Renthal Ultra low Gold
  • CBR929 Wheel
  • Brembo Série ORO 320mm
  • Spacers & axle
  • RC51 Bearings + tube
  • CBR600 fender 07-12 + paint
  • Stem Bearings 919
  • Straighten Front wheel

My goal is to be finished with all the things listed by the beginning of the 2020 riding season in spring !

Here is what I am starting with, a bone stock 2007 Honda Hornet 900 :




In the next post, we are starting the initial tear-down and cleaning. See you there !
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post #2 of 43 Old 10-26-2019, 11:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Volumetrik View Post
OPERATION MANDARINIA


Hello and welcome to my build thread for my 2007 Hornet 919.

During the winter of 2019/2020 I will enhance and tweak my Hornet to achieve the best suspension, braking and handling characteristics I can within my student budget. The main components of the build are :
.
  • RC51 Front end w/ Ohlins valves
  • Ohlins rear shock
  • CBR600RR Front calipers
  • Brembo 320mm Series ORO rotors
  • FactoryPro shift kit

To achieve all the things listed, I have researched, read and dug around on this forum all the parts and details needed to execute the changes. I will document every step of the journey and explain my reasoning as best as I can while doing so.

I know the 919 is not the optimal track weapon because of it's poor anti-squat geometry and relaxed head angle, but I just love the 919. As soon as I got on it, I fell in love with its dynamics. I want to make this into a competent commuter I can take to the track and in the twisties without breaking a sweat.

Here is the complete list of things I need to either buy, make or install to make my project happen :
.
  • Kyle Racing 17/44 520 Chain
  • Ohlins rear shock
  • CBR600RR Caliper rebuild
  • Rear caliper Rebuild
  • Front Master Rebuild
  • Rear Master Rebuild
  • Venhill Lines / Hel
  • Factory Pro Shift kit
  • Paint Pulsar cover
  • Tail tidy
  • Turn signals
  • Starter valve synchro
  • Throttle position Sync
  • Power commander 3 install
  • Valve check + Spark plugs
  • Michelin PR2 Tires
    .
    RC51 Specific
    .
  • RC51 SP2 Forks
  • CBR929 Lower Triple
  • 919 Stem (lathe)
  • CBR929 TopYokes UK
  • Honda emblem
  • Renthal Ultra low Gold
  • CBR929 Wheel
  • Brembo Série ORO 320mm
  • Spacers & axle
  • RC51 Bearings + tube
  • CBR600 fender 07-12 + paint
  • Stem Bearings 919
  • Straighten Front wheel

My goal is to be finished with all the things listed by the beginning of the 2020 riding season in spring !

Here is what I am starting with, a bone stock 2007 Honda Hornet 900 :




In the next post, we are starting the initial tear-down and cleaning. See you there !
Nice layout.
As for the flat swing arm angle, if you are going with an adjustable length shock, you'll be able to get noticeable improvement in swingarm angle, as well as increasing the rear ride height.
Looking forward to your next post!

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post #3 of 43 Old 10-27-2019, 12:50 AM
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Cool. I love build threads. Great list of mods and stuff to do.
Some suggestions. Pair valve, flapper mod. Maybe a tank pad and seat cover.
When you get rich some Sato rearsets.

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post #4 of 43 Old 10-27-2019, 07:11 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcromo44 View Post
Nice layout.
As for the flat swing arm angle, if you are going with an adjustable length shock, you'll be able to get noticeable improvement in swingarm angle, as well as increasing the rear ride height.
Looking forward to your next post!
Thanks, that's great news then ! Can't say I am competent enough to be able to tell the difference in anti-squat while riding, but the goal is to get good enough to.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Islandboy View Post
Cool. I love build threads. Great list of mods and stuff to do.
Some suggestions. Pair valve, flapper mod. Maybe a tank pad and seat cover.
When you get rich some Sato rearsets.
I did the flapper mod as soon as I got the bike ! I will do the pair valves at the same time as the valve check, forgot it on the list.
Yeah I am looking at tank pads and seat covers, those are good items. As for the rearsets, I really want either the Gilles ones or the Sato ones, but i'ts either those or a Mivv X-Cone with the current budget. Maybe later during the year I'll be able to liberate more capital

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post #5 of 43 Old 10-27-2019, 08:07 AM Thread Starter
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Started the disassembly as displayed in the What have u done for your bike today?? thread.






Also, here is a wider view of my section of the barn.




Here is the shelf situation. These were empty last week, but they get filled up pretty quickly !




Next post is fixing a small detail that bothered me about the 919 design !

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post #6 of 43 Old 10-27-2019, 09:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Volumetrik View Post
Started the disassembly as displayed in the What have u done for your bike today?? thread.






Also, here is a wider view of my section of the barn.




Here is the shelf situation. These were empty last week, but they get filled up pretty quickly !




Next post is fixing a small detail that bothered me about the 919 design !
That's a really nice shop space you have!

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post #7 of 43 Old 10-27-2019, 11:56 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by mcromo44 View Post
That's a really nice shop space you have!
Thank you ! It's going to get much dirtier soon enough

If possible, could you guys avoid quoting the long posts that contain lots of images when replying ?

It creates long duplicates in the thread and after a while, it's going to take ages just to load the page.

I really do appreciate the interest !

Cheers

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post #8 of 43 Old 10-27-2019, 12:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Volumetrik View Post
Thank you ! It's going to get much dirtier soon enough

If possible, could you guys avoid quoting the long posts that contain lots of images when replying ?

It creates long duplicates in the thread and after a while, it's going to take ages just to load the page.

I really do appreciate the interest !

Cheers
Reply is so easy, and one gets to see the eye candy again.
But I will desist as requested.

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post #9 of 43 Old 10-27-2019, 02:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Volumetrik View Post
Thank you ! It's going to get much dirtier soon enough

If possible, could you guys avoid quoting the long posts that contain lots of images when replying ?

It creates long duplicates in the thread and after a while, it's going to take ages just to load the page.

I really do appreciate the interest !

Cheers
How much trouble did you have finding a good set of RC51 SP2 forks?
We've heard that they are now hard to find and are priced accordingly.

While I'm on it, if you go with an adjustable length rear shock, are you also going to put on extended fork caps?

Also, were you able to find out how much trail the 929 triple clamp set will give you?
I seem to remember the topic being broached before, but I can't remember if a hard number was ever determined.

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post #10 of 43 Old 10-27-2019, 06:38 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcromo44 View Post
Reply is so easy, and one gets to see the eye candy again.
But I will desist as requested.
Thanks boss

Quote:
Originally Posted by mcromo44 View Post
How much trouble did you have finding a good set of RC51 SP2 forks?
We've heard that they are now hard to find and are priced accordingly.
I paid 450$ shipped for the SP2 RC51 forks on eBay. They came with the two triple clamps and the caliper brackets.

I purchased the wheel axle and spacers separately on eBay aswell. I did sell the lower triple back so the end cost is not too dramatic, but it's still expensive.

Quote:
Originally Posted by mcromo44 View Post
While I'm on it, if you go with an adjustable length rear shock, are you also going to put on extended fork caps?
The only extended fork caps I can find are the Ohlins ones that need the expensive 30mm cartridge kit, so I am not going with that. From my phone discussions with Kyleracing, I should be good geometry wise. I was recommended the SP2 forks for my 919 build, so I went the 929rr route for the front wheel and triples. I'll drop them as low as I can.

Quote:
Originally Posted by mcromo44 View Post
Also, were you able to find out how much trail the 929 triple clamp set will give you?
I seem to remember the topic being broached before, but I can't remember if a hard number was ever determined.
The only info I have at the top of my head right now is that the 929 triples will give me 30mm offset vs the stock 35ish. I asked while I was on the phone and I was told the change was not problematic.

I'll check the geometry and crunch the numbers after my semester around Christmas to be sure.

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post #11 of 43 Old 10-27-2019, 06:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Volumetrik View Post
Thanks boss



I paid 450$ shipped for the SP2 RC51 forks on eBay. They came with the two triple clamps and the caliper brackets.

I purchased the wheel axle and spacers separately on eBay aswell. I did sell the lower triple back so the end cost is not too dramatic, but it's still expensive.



The only extended fork caps I can find are the Ohlins ones that need the expensive 30mm cartridge kit, so I am not going with that. From my phone discussions with Kyleracing, I should be good geometry wise. I was recommended the SP2 forks for my 919 build, so I went the 929rr route for the front wheel and triples. I'll drop them as low as I can.



The only info I have at the top of my head right now is that the 929 triples will give me 30mm offset vs the stock 35ish. I asked while I was on the phone and I was told the change was not problematic.

I'll check the geometry and crunch the numbers after my semester around Christmas to be sure.
You are certainly doing your homework, and at the right places.
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post #12 of 43 Old 10-28-2019, 03:35 AM
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I used a tank pad from the ST1300.
If I had my time again and had to chose between pipes and Sato rearsets. I'd probably pick the rearsets. Adjustable, vibration free and sweet gear changes. Act as sliders. Look great.
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post #13 of 43 Old 10-28-2019, 09:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Volumetrik View Post

I paid 450$ shipped for the SP2 RC51 forks on eBay. They came with the two triple clamps and the caliper brackets.

Ridiculously smoking good deal! I paid more than half of that just for a single OEM replacement outer tube!


We have done thousands of Ohlins reworks on those forks and every week they still keep coming in... Now that the RC is getting so long in the tooth the forks that get sent in aren't always in the best of condition so good job sir!


I went NIX30 Retrofit on my personal bike
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post #14 of 43 Old 10-28-2019, 12:48 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by LDH View Post
Ridiculously smoking good deal! I paid more than half of that just for a single OEM replacement outer tube!


We have done thousands of Ohlins reworks on those forks and every week they still keep coming in... Now that the RC is getting so long in the tooth the forks that get sent in aren't always in the best of condition so good job sir!

I went NIX30 Retrofit on my personal bike
Good to hear ! They were the only SP2 pair on eBay so I grabbed them real quick. They are in good shape, but the fork stanchions were a bit tired. I polished the chrome legs the best I could, but there is still some small pitted areas. I'll take pictures next weekend.

That NIX30 kit looks killer ! I'll have to settle for just the Ohlins valve kit.

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post #15 of 43 Old 10-28-2019, 12:53 PM
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Pitting is bad news. Hopefully it is very close to the casting in an area that you won't be using that much. Helps to put in higher end SKF seals with the pitting too. Yes they are more expensive and yes the pitting will still wear them out, but they do hold up way better than the cheaper aftermarket seals

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post #16 of 43 Old 10-28-2019, 01:06 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Islandboy View Post
I used a tank pad from the ST1300.
If I had my time again and had to chose between pipes and Sato rearsets. I'd probably pick the rearsets. Adjustable, vibration free and sweet gear changes. Act as sliders. Look great.
Perfect, I will keep that in mind ! The Sato rearsets do look mint, that's for sure.

I am wondering if the rearsets will have enough vertical adjustment. With the regular OEM pegs, my knees were 2 inches below where they would naturally grip the tank. To put it in different words, if I grip the tank correctly with my knees, my feet are about 2 inches over the pegs. The sato seem to have a 40mm vertical adjustment, so roughly 1.5inch, hopefully that's enough.

I was also looking at the Gilles rearsets, but I the adjustment range only seems max up 20mm.

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post #17 of 43 Old 10-28-2019, 01:10 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by LDH View Post
Pitting is bad news. Hopefully it is very close to the casting in an area that you won't be using that much. Helps to put in higher end SKF seals with the pitting too. Yes they are more expensive and yes the pitting will still wear them out, but they do hold up way better than the cheaper aftermarket seals
Good stuff, I'll get the SKF seals then. The pitting is close to the bottom portion of the stroke. I'll get some good pictures soon. I'll try to get them in the best shape I can before sending them over to you !

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post #18 of 43 Old 10-28-2019, 03:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Volumetrik View Post
Perfect, I will keep that in mind ! The Sato rearsets do look mint, that's for sure.

I am wondering if the rearsets will have enough vertical adjustment. With the regular OEM pegs, my knees were 2 inches below where they would naturally grip the tank. To put it in different words, if I grip the tank correctly with my knees, my feet are about 2 inches over the pegs. The sato seem to have a 40mm vertical adjustment, so roughly 1.5inch, hopefully that's enough.

I was also looking at the Gilles rearsets, but I the adjustment range only seems max up 20mm.
Sounds odd to me.
I'm about 5 ft 11-1/2 and wear 34 in inseam pants.
I have a Corbin seat which adds well over an inch of compressed seat height.
With stock pegs and on the ball of my foot, my knee is perfectly positioned to hook under the flared out section of the tank for hanging off - hence my grip pads on both sides of the tank.
Pushed back on the seat some as wedged in place by the knees for heavy front braking is not an issue either.
What are you defining as gripping the tank correctly with your knees?

That's not to say you won't find more advantageous positioningS with the rear sets, while never grinding a brake and/or shifter tab. (I've never ground the shifter but I have ground the brake lever a bit. I've also reshaped the brake lever arm to tuck it in closer and the gap is now 3/16ths of an inch. As well, my bike is set up tall as well as being resprung stiffer, thus also raising the shifter and brake lever heights. The brake lever has also been adjusted to sit a bit higher than stock. It all adds up.)

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post #19 of 43 Old 10-28-2019, 04:38 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by mcromo44 View Post
Sounds odd to me.
I'm about 5 ft 11-1/2 and wear 34 in inseam pants.
I have a Corbin seat which adds well over an inch of compressed seat height.
With stock pegs and on the ball of my foot, my knee is perfectly positioned to hook under the flared out section of the tank for hanging off - hence my grip pads on both sides of the tank.
Pushed back on the seat some as wedged in place by the knees for heavy front braking is not an issue either.
What are you defining as gripping the tank correctly with your knees?

That's not to say you won't find more advantageous positioningS with the rear sets, while never grinding a brake and/or shifter tab. (I've never ground the shifter but I have ground the brake lever a bit. I've also reshaped the brake lever arm to tuck it in closer and the gap is now 3/16ths of an inch. As well, my bike is set up tall as well as being resprung stiffer, thus also raising the shifter and brake lever heights. The brake lever has also been adjusted to sit a bit higher than stock. It all adds up.)
I'm 5'9'' with 32in inseam. Yes that's what I was referring to, the underside of the flared portion of the tank. My knees sit a bit too low to be ''locked in''. To be in that position on the OEM pegs, I have to be on my toes.

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post #20 of 43 Old 10-28-2019, 05:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Volumetrik View Post
I'm 5'9'' with 32in inseam. Yes that's what I was referring to, the underside of the flared portion of the tank. My knees sit a bit too low to be ''locked in''. To be in that position on the OEM pegs, I have to be on my toes.
Ahhhh, now I see.............
Suggestion while keeping in mind that the 919 is a rather "spacious" bike in terms of seating position for hefty 6 footers.
You may find that the minimum set back of some rearsets will prevent you from being able to hook the tank unless you are on the balls of your feet or worse.
You may find it not practical using the flared out hook method of hanging, and instead find using the sides of the tank much better for you.


Also, a necessary correction of some prior posts of mine.
For years I've been saying the front axle weight of 919 is low and the bike weight is rearward biased.
I was wrong.
I recently had the bike weighed up as part of a chassis setup evaluation.
Bare bike is 49% front/ 51% rear. (fuel load was over a half full tank)
You'll gain a wee bit more because of the increased trail.
But I still stand by my comments about typical online spring calculators seemingly to always call up excessive front spring rates for typical road riders and infrequent track dayers.

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post #21 of 43 Old 10-28-2019, 05:43 PM
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I like this guy, just based on his posting requirements and organization.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Volumetrik View Post
Thank you ! It's going to get much dirtier soon enough

If possible, could you guys avoid quoting the long posts that contain lots of images when replying ?

It creates long duplicates in the thread and after a while, it's going to take ages just to load the page.

I really do appreciate the interest !

Cheers
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post #22 of 43 Old 10-29-2019, 11:39 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by mcromo44 View Post
Ahhhh, now I see.............
Suggestion while keeping in mind that the 919 is a rather "spacious" bike in terms of seating position for hefty 6 footers.
You may find that the minimum set back of some rearsets will prevent you from being able to hook the tank unless you are on the balls of your feet or worse.
You may find it not practical using the flared out hook method of hanging, and instead find using the sides of the tank much better for you.


Also, a necessary correction of some prior posts of mine.
For years I've been saying the front axle weight of 919 is low and the bike weight is rearward biased.
I was wrong.
I recently had the bike weighed up as part of a chassis setup evaluation.
Bare bike is 49% front/ 51% rear. (fuel load was over a half full tank)
You'll gain a wee bit more because of the increased trail.
But I still stand by my comments about typical online spring calculators seemingly to always call up excessive front spring rates for typical road riders and infrequent track dayers.
Very good comments about the 919 ergonomics, many thanks !

I'm intrigued about the weight distribution. I'll get it weighed up in spring after it's all finished !

Quote:
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I like this guy, just based on his posting requirements and organization.
Thank you for the kind comment ! When researching, organized posts helped me so much that I try to pay it forward in mine.
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post #23 of 43 Old 10-29-2019, 11:58 AM Thread Starter
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Alright, we are moving to the small detail about the 919 that bothered me.

The horn !! It's in the way and breaks up the smooth radiator lines.

I got an idea while removing the PAIR system. Can you spot it ?


Right here...


Interesting...


A quick CAD mockup later, transferred to sheet metal.


Added a small bend to offset the horn mount because of the fouling throttle cable hook.


A closer look to that offending hook.


Here is the horn located with the remaining of the bracket trimmed off.


Here it is on the other side.


The bracket is not rock solid. I assume it will rotate forward due to the weight of the horn through normal riding. I purposefully got the bottom flat part of the bracket to sit tight on the lip of the coil bracket, but the moment arm is too big and it can still pivot down. So I added some enforcements.


Captive nut welded to the mix.


With the matching notched arm that mounts straight onto a frame gusset.


I also added a brace on the edge of the bracket because I am scared that it will bend down with vibrations


Here is the system all mounted up.


Other side.


And here is the final result, all mounted up and ready for action.




After all of this, the horn mounted, connected with the bike on, it does not want to ''horn''. I reversed the connections and still did not want to ''beep''. I also checked the fuses and they are all in good shape. Maybe I need to start the bike to get the horn to sound ?

In any case, I'll get the bracket sandblasted and painted after I empty the sandblaster, which is now full of soda. Next post the teardown continues and some deep cleaning is performed.
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post #24 of 43 Old 10-29-2019, 03:35 PM
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The stock horn position is ugly. I like what ya did. Won't work for me I filled that void with wiring loom from the headlight bucket. I moved my horn to the choke cable mount.
Great metalwork skills too. Very neat.
I've always liked the cb1300 twin horns mounted under headlight. I may try to sort something out one day.
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post #25 of 43 Old 10-29-2019, 06:36 PM
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The horn on my 599 was the same way, mounted on the radiator, like an after thought. I simply took it off, and used one of the bolts on the front forks. It now sits partially behind the headlight at the 7:00 position. No CAD mock up, nor welding required. And it works. And I'm not even going to post a pic.

The horn on the 848 was behind the radiator, on the left side, pointed sideways. It didn't project much. I moved that one to point forward, out in the open. Again, no CAD mock up. Now it sounds like a horn. When you live in deer country, you NEED a horn.

You put that horn under the tank, and I don't think you, or anyone else is going to hear much.

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post #26 of 43 Old 10-29-2019, 07:31 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Islandboy View Post
The stock horn position is ugly. I like what ya did. Won't work for me I filled that void with wiring loom from the headlight bucket. I moved my horn to the choke cable mount.
Great metalwork skills too. Very neat.
I've always liked the cb1300 twin horns mounted under headlight. I may try to sort something out one day.
That's a cool design, I forgot about that.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Sniper-x View Post
The horn on my 599 was the same way, mounted on the radiator, like an after thought. I simply took it off, and used one of the bolts on the front forks. It now sits partially behind the headlight at the 7:00 position. No CAD mock up, nor welding required. And it works. And I'm not even going to post a pic.

The horn on the 848 was behind the radiator, on the left side, pointed sideways. It didn't project much. I moved that one to point forward, out in the open. Again, no CAD mock up. Now it sounds like a horn. When you live in deer country, you NEED a horn.

You put that horn under the tank, and I don't think you, or anyone else is going to hear much.
Thanks for the heads up. Now that I think about it, it won't projet well at all. Sometimes you get caught up doing things but don't stop to think if you should.

Just to be clear though, CAD mock up refers to Cardboard Assisted Design
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post #27 of 43 Old 10-29-2019, 11:15 PM
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Nice. I believe a guy on my local forum a while back replaced his solid rear axle with the hollow rear axle from a F4i so he could use a Pitbull TRS. If you’re going to be hauling it to the track often, I’d definitely look into this. Every one of my track day / racer friends swear by the TRS.

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post #28 of 43 Old 10-30-2019, 12:07 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MattR302 View Post
Nice. I believe a guy on my local forum a while back replaced his solid rear axle with the hollow rear axle from a F4i so he could use a Pitbull TRS. If you’re going to be hauling it to the track often, I’d definitely look into this. Every one of my track day / racer friends swear by the TRS.
Oh that's definitively interesting. I will look into that for sure !

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post #29 of 43 Old 10-30-2019, 12:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Volumetrik View Post
Just to be clear though, CAD mock up refers to Cardboard Assisted Design

Lol; honestly might be faster to do it in cardboard first than spending 8h fiddling on the PC.

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post #30 of 43 Old 10-30-2019, 05:52 PM
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Cardboard assisted design. That's pretty funny.

Your's was a good idea. But not all good ideas work.

I had a hollow F4I axle on my old 919. I was probably the only one that ever noticed it, but I liked the way it looked.

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post #31 of 43 Old 10-31-2019, 12:21 AM
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This is how I have my horn mounted, discrete and loud!
Attached Images
File Type: jpeg IMG_2588.jpeg (249.7 KB, 12 views)
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post #32 of 43 Old 10-31-2019, 08:17 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by ewmin3m View Post
Lol; honestly might be faster to do it in cardboard first than spending 8h fiddling on the PC.
Oh yes, all the brackets I make, especially if they are simple with simple angles, are with paper. I draw the flat lay first, I cut them up with scissors and fold them to mock up quick on the part before committing to metal.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Sniper-x View Post
Cardboard assisted design. That's pretty funny.

Your's was a good idea. But not all good ideas work.

I had a hollow F4I axle on my old 919. I was probably the only one that ever noticed it, but I liked the way it looked.
Sometimes you get carried away haha ! Apart from the hollowness of the axle and potential weight savings, is it just an aesthetics thing ?

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Originally Posted by qwikz View Post
This is how I have my horn mounted, discrete and loud!
Nice setup, that must be louder than stock I imagine.

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post #33 of 43 Old 10-31-2019, 08:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Volumetrik View Post
Sometimes you get carried away haha ! Apart from the hollowness of the axle and potential weight savings, is it just an aesthetics thing ?


It allows the use of the Red Bull rear axle hold down system for transport.
Really slik bit of kit!

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post #34 of 43 Old 10-31-2019, 08:43 AM Thread Starter
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Lets switch gears and get into some real good cleaning ! I imagine this phase is going to last a few weekends of work because the bike is not exactly ''clean''. Its quite grimy especially in the chain area. The previous owner must have loved lubricant, because everything is CAKED with old gunk. I especially hate that kind of grime because it smears everywhere and is a NIGHTMARE to clean, but I think I found a solution ! Lets investigate.

Started with cutting the chain.


Got the wheel off.


The sprocket was literally caked.


Same with the sprocket carrier.


Got busy removing the toast rear tire.


I really wrangled with it. It was my first time removing a rear tire. I did the front tire off the 929rr wheel last weekend. It was much easier I'll tell you that.


It was quite dirty too.


Quick cleaning with dish soap and simple green. I removed the wheel weights and used WD-40 to get the adhesive soft.


Next up got the swing-arm pivot bolt off so I could remove it completely.


Swing-arm was also completely dirty. Gummed up from the chain lubricant in the front. Removed everything that attached to it.


The frame area is also pretty dirty too. I'll have to clean everything up before I put the swing-arm back into place.


Inside view.


Got it clean with a combination of WD-40 to melt away the gunk, simple green to wash it away and dish soap with a toothbrush to get into small areas. I know this will get dirty again, but I can't stand working with dirty parts.


Looks brand new !


So we are left with this, quite messy.


Cleaned up my work area a bit.


While cleaning the wheel and swing-arm I noticed that some seals were damaged, so I will get new seals all around, same for the sprocket carrier seals. I'll also get some rear wheel bearing because they feel a bit notchy. Next up were are continuing the cleaning of the rear portion. On my last ZRX build I disassembled everything at once and got a bit overwhelmed by all the parts and cleaning. I am therefore going section by section with the 919. Once I get all the rear stuff sorted, I'll move to the front and engine portions a section at a time.

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post #35 of 43 Old 10-31-2019, 11:54 AM
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lol you think that's grimy ? xD looked clean AF xD

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post #36 of 43 Old 11-01-2019, 07:46 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by ewmin3m View Post
lol you think that's grimy ? xD looked clean AF xD
When you clean stuff with a toothbrush everything looks grimy

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post #37 of 43 Old 11-03-2019, 06:30 PM Thread Starter
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Had a pretty busy weekend with uni work, but I did have time to sneak a bit of brake related work.

Here is the current situation. I have the 600RR calipers and all the associated paraphernalia.


I have some new pads for the front, pad guide pins, seals and rebuild kits for everything hydraulic on the bike.


Here is the extra 919 lower triple I bought. I will grind the bottom of the stem and extract it from the triple. I'll then have to see what I need to machine/add to the stem to make it fit on the 929 triple.


Clean vs dirty caliper ! Soda blasted the internals, everything is clean. The stainless fasteners I have are not the correct length, so I will need to order some.


The guide pins and spring plates were completely grimy. They will require a good clean.


I also got my RC51 front bearings, spacer and seals. I will install those on the 929rr wheel and we will be ready to roll. Also ordered some angled valve stems from KurveyGirl, hopefully they get here by next week !
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post #38 of 43 Old 11-03-2019, 07:36 PM
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What's in the blue tube of paste in the 1st pic?

Why the 600 brakes and not the 919 or RC51 brakes?

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post #39 of 43 Old 11-04-2019, 12:41 AM
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2003-2004 CBR600RR mc 11/16” (17.4625 mm)
caliper pistons 32mm/30mm

2000-2001 CBR929RR mc 19mm
caliper pistons 34mm/30mm

2002-2003 CBR954RR mc 11/16” (17.4625 mm)
caliper pistons 32mm/30mm

2000-2001 RC51 mc 19mm
caliper pistons 34mm/32mm

2002-present RC51 mc 11/16” (17.4625 mm)
caliper pistons 32mm/30mm

1999-Present CBR600F4(i) mc 5/8” (15.87mm)
caliper pistons 34mm/32mm

Stock VTR Master Cylinder 14mm
caliper pistons 30mm/27mm
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post #40 of 43 Old 11-04-2019, 07:08 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KarlJay View Post
What's in the blue tube of paste in the 1st pic?

Why the 600 brakes and not the 919 or RC51 brakes?
The blue tube is brake assembly lube by ATE. Its german and compatible with DOT4 fluid. I prefer to use it to assemble brake parts instead of red rubber grease.

I used the 600rr calipers because of the 32mm and 30mm pistons. I wanted to keep my 14mm master cylinder.

I have the 14mm/34mm/30mm combo on my ZRX and that thing brakes like no other.

Quote:
Originally Posted by K1w1Boy View Post
2003-2004 CBR600RR mc 11/16” (17.4625 mm)
caliper pistons 32mm/30mm

2000-2001 CBR929RR mc 19mm
caliper pistons 34mm/30mm

2002-2003 CBR954RR mc 11/16” (17.4625 mm)
caliper pistons 32mm/30mm

2000-2001 RC51 mc 19mm
caliper pistons 34mm/32mm

2002-present RC51 mc 11/16” (17.4625 mm)
caliper pistons 32mm/30mm

1999-Present CBR600F4(i) mc 5/8” (15.87mm)
caliper pistons 34mm/32mm

Stock VTR Master Cylinder 14mm
caliper pistons 30mm/27mm
That is exactly right, thank you for this very useful chart !

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