Okay Shock Help! - Wrist Twisters
 
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post #1 of 22 Old 08-17-2007, 03:54 PM Thread Starter
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Okay Shock Help!

I just set my preload to a little closer to what it should be (increased tension one step). Made the rear a little stiffer making it harder for me to touch the ground. My boots just aren't long enough. It has nothing to do with me being 5'6". It also makes the ride really rough, kicking me into the air on certain bumps. I only weigh about 150.

So the question I have is this. I'd like to lower it about 1" without jeopardizing the handling to much like when I loosen the preload. What if I were to remove the shock and cut off a little of the spring on each end making it about 1" shorter.

I'd also like to consider revalving the stock shock or buying another but I'm not going to $600 or so for another shock. There has to be another way.

Please give me some answers, I've done a lot of searching and I'm not getting any real answers to this problem.

Thank guys,

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post #2 of 22 Old 08-17-2007, 05:50 PM
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There isn't much you can do right now, Outside of shock replacement.
What ever you do, don't cut the spring. Rate,temperament, fitments, all goes bad when you do that.
The shock is still new, Increase the rebound a little to compensate for the increase in preload, As the shock breaks in a little more it will soften & work a little better.
Unfornutly... setting proper sag with this bike creates more problems.
More preload makes a stiff shock,stiffer.
More preload requires more rebound,stiffer.
Set the preload to a comfortable setting,(control squatting & bottoming) adjust the rebound to be tolerable to about 75% of the roads you ride on, & let it be.
It might bounce a little in some spots & kick a little in others. It's the nature of the design.
Mine was a pain also but now with 14,000 miles I don't really think about it much anymore, It works good enough now to just leave it.

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post #3 of 22 Old 08-17-2007, 06:05 PM Thread Starter
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Yeah thanks Mike this kind of what I was afraid to hear.

If I set the preload where it's just right (less tension)I can touch the ground pretty well but boy it really squats on accelleration. Maybe increasing rebound will help?

Otherwise I don't know what to do to make touching the ground easier, and have the bike stay on the ground the way it should.

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post #4 of 22 Old 08-17-2007, 07:15 PM
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Spend the money.
I did.
I'm glad I did.

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post #5 of 22 Old 08-17-2007, 07:55 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sniper View Post
Spend the money.
I did.
I'm glad I did.
Spend the money on what? What was the result?

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post #6 of 22 Old 08-17-2007, 08:13 PM
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he prolly itches a lot and had to get a shot from the doc...

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post #7 of 22 Old 08-17-2007, 08:52 PM
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XRCajun; It appears you and I are about the same height and weight. 26" inseam... Yeah-Yeah, Ok lets hear those short jokes.

Do what I do, use those tip toes. Enjoy the ride!

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post #8 of 22 Old 08-18-2007, 07:34 AM Thread Starter
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Okay so what about this?

This might be just what I'm lookiing for! What do you think?

http://www.wilbersusa.com/hyperpro-springs.htm

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post #9 of 22 Old 08-18-2007, 08:22 AM
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Thank you very much Ratdog, but that condition cleared up on its own some time back.

Spend the money to get that bike set up for YOU. Right now, it's set up for 330 lbs. No wonder your ass is coming off the seat when you hit a bump. What you have is the functional equivelant of a hardtail. If you ever sell your bike, put the old shock back on, you won't lose that much money.

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post #10 of 22 Old 08-18-2007, 08:26 AM
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First off, I never have been a fan of progressive wound springs. If you can get a spring that is 1" shorter, you will (a) compromise the steering geometry unless you raise the front forks the same amount and (b) the shock which has rebound damping might not function the same as it did stock. I say might, because I have no data to back up this statement. Ohlins or Penske!

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post #11 of 22 Old 08-18-2007, 08:49 AM
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In My Opinion. Stick with a straight rate spring.
Without being able to tune the shock,both compression & rebound,Balancing the spring & shock is going to be a gamble.

I would prefer a Dual-Rate spring over a progressive one though.
I have dual-Rate springs on my bronco.

But, a Progressive spring is not the same as a Dual-Rate Spring. A progressive-wound spring is similar to a dual-rate in that it has an initial and final rate. The drawback of a progressive spring is that the crossover point is not adjustable. How the spring is wound determines the characteristics of the spring. This type of spring is wound with a varying pitch, as opposed to a constant pitch used in linear rate springs. One end has greater distance between the coils than at the other end of the spring. As the coils compress the coils closest to each other touch, (become coil-bound), which effectively reduces the number of active coils. As the number of active coils reduce the spring rate rises or becomes stiffer. Depending on shaft travel of a particular shock, an inappropriate progressive spring can actually cross over the initial rate in pre-load, or not attain the final rate at all. Progressive-wound springs can be a compromise if they are not designed for the specific application. Rider weight & other similar changes also affect how the spring will "set" once installed.

My guess is they didn't build that spring for a vertically challenged light rider,you might spend $110.00 & end up in the same boat.
Hard to say with a mass produced spring.

The reason we change springs is to find the right rate for "you", & to have the bike work properly when "you" ride it.
Not the general public.
One needs an array of "Rates" to choose from.
Not just a single spring from a list.

But if you feel like trying it, We... the WT guys, would love the feedback & a write up of all that was entailed for a possible future "sticky"

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post #12 of 22 Old 08-18-2007, 08:52 AM
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Anyone remember this song?

Randy Newman:

Short People got no reason
Short People got no reason
Short People got no reason
To live

They got little hands
And little eyes
And they walk around
Tellin' great big lies
They got little noses
And tiny little teeth
They wear platform shoes
On their nasty little feet

Well, I don't want no Short People
Don't want no Short People
Don't want no Short People
Round here

Short People are just the same
As you and I
(A Fool Such As I)
All men are brothers
Until the day they die
(It's A Wonderful World)

Short People got nobody
Short People got nobody
Short People got nobody
To love

They got little baby legs
And they stand so low
You got to pick 'em up
Just to say hello
They got little cars
That go beep, beep, beep
They got little voices
Goin' peep, peep, peep
They got grubby little fingers
And dirty little minds
They're gonna get you every time
Well, I don't want no Short People
Don't want no Short People
Don't want no Short People
'Round here


Now back to your normally scheduled program ...

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post #13 of 22 Old 08-18-2007, 08:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XRCajun View Post
If I set the preload where it's just right (less tension)I can touch the ground pretty well but boy it really squats on acceleration. Maybe increasing rebound will help?

Otherwise I don't know what to do to make touching the ground easier, and have the bike stay on the ground the way it should.
A compression "bleed" or "bypass" adjustment is what's needed to help reduce the squat, with a soft spring.
Rebound won't help much.
Thats why we say "Ohlins"

Have you thought about a seat redo. Firmer shorter foam? Lower the seat a little maybe?

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post #14 of 22 Old 08-18-2007, 08:59 AM
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Thanks Dave!
Spoiler:

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post #15 of 22 Old 08-18-2007, 10:15 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xrmikey View Post
A compression "bleed" or "bypass" adjustment is what's needed to help reduce the squat, with a soft spring.
Rebound won't help much.
Thats why we say "Ohlins"

Have you thought about a seat redo. Firmer shorter foam? Lower the seat a little maybe?
Yeah I've considered redoing the seat and I have done that on other bikes but you know there's always a price to pay. They just get uncomfortable real quick. Everyone esle seems to think the 919 seat is bad but I've enjoyed it compared to my other seats.

You've just about got me talked into an Ohlins or Penske but boy I don't want to spend that much. Is anyone familiar with Wilbur from EPM?

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post #16 of 22 Old 08-18-2007, 10:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XRCajun View Post
Yeah I've considered redoing the seat and I have done that on other bikes but you know there's always a price to pay. They just get uncomfortable real quick. Everyone esle seems to think the 919 seat is bad but I've enjoyed it compared to my other seats.

You've just about got me talked into an Ohlins or Penske but boy I don't want to spend that much. Is anyone familiar with Wilbur from EPM?
These guys will take your stock seat and modify it to your specs. I've used them several times to retain the stock look of the bike, but offer comfort. Much cheaper than the Corbin or Sargeant route. Also, good outfits. I've used them also. But, not to modify a seat. Just new purchase.

http://www.buttbuffer.com/

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post #17 of 22 Old 08-18-2007, 10:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RC51_CBRXX View Post
These guys will take your stock seat and modify it to your specs. I've used them several times to retain the stock look of the bike, but offer comfort. Much cheaper than the Corbin or Sargeant route. Also, good outfits. I've used them also. But, not to modify a seat. Just new purchase.

http://www.buttbuffer.com/
Knowing you Rc. I dont want to click on that link!

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post #18 of 22 Old 08-21-2007, 12:17 PM
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Originally Posted by RC51_CBRXX View Post
Yikes... I just threw up in my mouth a little bit... actually, it was more than just a little bit, and it was all over the place...

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post #19 of 22 Old 08-21-2007, 01:57 PM
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Guys, it's a real place ... I swear. They do excellent work. It's not H_Ryder's place called "ButtBlasters".

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post #20 of 22 Old 08-21-2007, 03:02 PM
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The 9er is progressive wound because there's no link in the rear suspension. IMO, it's rate is too weak initially, and too stiff toward full compression. Honda seems to do this with linked suspensions also. Since there is a pillion area they chose to design the rear suspension to take the load of two passengers. You've got room to crank the preload up in this case to hold the static load, and the shock still won't bottom under compression. What that leaves you with is a less than compliant rate when solo, and without ride height adjustment vertically challenged people seem to suffer the worst.

This was discussed as part of a sag setting thread awhile back:
https://www.wristtwisters.com/forum/s...rinding&page=4

Finding a rear shock/spring that is progressive or linear on a non-linked suspension is akin to a crap shoot. A shock with enough adjustability will make it better, but if it's linear rate it still won't be perfect. If it's progressive wound it will only be right if it's wound for your weight.

"Towards the end of the vid, it looks like she may have had a bafflectomy." - MarylandMike
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post #21 of 22 Old 08-21-2007, 03:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RC51_CBRXX View Post
These guys will take your stock seat and modify it to your specs. I've used them several times to retain the stock look of the bike, but offer comfort. Much cheaper than the Corbin or Sargeant route. Also, good outfits. I've used them also. But, not to modify a seat. Just new purchase.

http://www.buttbuffer.com/

The buttbuffer looks like it would be comfortable on the hemorrhoids.

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post #22 of 22 Old 08-22-2007, 08:35 PM
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I don't anything `bout perfection. An Ohlins shock makes for a MUCH nicer ride.

I recently rode my pal's resprung gen1 FZ. It wasn't nearly as nice as either of my Hondas.

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