Oil Change in a 919 - Wrist Twisters
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post #1 of 75 Old 06-11-2010, 10:15 AM Thread Starter
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Oil Change in a 919

Hi All,

I recently purchased a 2007 919. The oil needs to be changed.

Any oil recommendations?

Thanks all!

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post #2 of 75 Old 06-11-2010, 10:28 AM
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10W40. Or look up any one of the 1k plus posts on 'the oil I use is better than yours'

Slow is smooth, smooth is fast.
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post #3 of 75 Old 06-11-2010, 10:30 AM
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just go to your dealer and get the honda 10/40. its cheap and made by honda. cant go wrong.

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post #4 of 75 Old 06-11-2010, 10:34 AM
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+1

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post #5 of 75 Old 06-11-2010, 10:40 AM
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Make sure to get the Honda GN4 10w40 oil!

Press Any Key To Continue.
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post #6 of 75 Old 06-11-2010, 10:56 AM
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Most important thing is do NOT use any oil designated as "energy conserving" which is how virtually all non-motorcycle oil is labelled.

Wet clutches do not like "energy conserving" oil. Like your manual says.

Congrats on your bike.

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post #7 of 75 Old 06-11-2010, 11:06 AM
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Take your pick of motorcycle specific oil. I used the Honda GN4 in the past, but now I only run Mobil1 synthetic bike oil. No harm in getting the best oil I can.

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post #8 of 75 Old 06-11-2010, 12:08 PM
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Welcome and congrats on buying the finest motorcycle ever made.

Here's some good reading. You will find many opinions on oil, but like CatonsvilleGuy said pick one that is not Energy Conserving and you should be fine.

All About Oil

All About Oil Filters
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post #9 of 75 Old 06-11-2010, 12:34 PM
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Rotella 5w40 full syn

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post #10 of 75 Old 06-11-2010, 12:52 PM
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Rotella rebate, b2g1,
Advance Auto parts has them for $20 each gallon....
http://www-static.shell.com/static/r...10_diy_mir.pdf

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post #11 of 75 Old 06-11-2010, 01:50 PM
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There are as many opinions of the "best" oil to use as there are those who insist on doing their own maintenance.

Now that I have established that, here's mine.

Castrol GTX 10W-40. Yup, plain ol' GTX. Well over 750,000 miles on various motorcycles, 600,000 of which using GTX. Not one lubrication related failure, or unexpected wear for that matter. All the more impressive given my, uh, irregular change schedule.

There you have it.

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On the other hand, if it has not been done never assume it is impossible to do it.
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post #12 of 75 Old 06-11-2010, 02:30 PM
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I knew there was a reason I liked you, Rob. Loved GTX in my air cooled vee wees. Might try it in the niner now.

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post #13 of 75 Old 06-11-2010, 03:04 PM
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GTX does great. So does Rotella, either 15-40 or "synthetic" 5-40. Anything that isn't Energy Conserving, and is the correct viscosity, and that has SAE or API designations that show it's meeting decent modern standards will do fine. SOME do slightly better than others....but, the differences aren't night and day.

After spending hundreds of dollars on Used Oil Analysis, I buy up whatever "synthetic" is on sale, in an Xw-40 weight, and I'm not concerned I'll ever have an oil-lubrication-related problem.

For my dirt-oriented bikes, liquid or air-cooled, I buy whatever Xw-50 weight "synthetic" is on sale. When taking them apart for scheduled valve adjustments, the valve trains look fantastic.

Modern Oil just isn't as hard to pick out as some people make it out to be.

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post #14 of 75 Old 06-11-2010, 03:30 PM
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Run rotella t 15w40 standard stuff in all my motorcycles.... shit is cheap (11 bucks for a gallon at wall mart) and does a great job.... My 04 crf250 is still on its completly stock top end and clutch... but i have gone through 10 rear tires.

And on my 919 ... ive only had it long nuf for 2 oil changes but the stuf works good.

I also use highflo filtro oil filters in all my stuff is well... their shit is top notch quality and is cheap...

off road atv dirt bike items - Get great deals on Honda Yamaha KTM items on eBay Stores!

HF204 is the filter we use..... u can buy a single one for 12.45 or 3 for 29.45

Come the next oil change (which is pretty soon) ima do my filter.... so ill cut apart the old one and see what the HF204 looks like inside.... but the ones for my CRF250 are better quality than the honda oem ones thats for sure.... and honda oem filters are awesome!

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post #15 of 75 Old 06-11-2010, 07:46 PM
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Hi-Flo filters: I've never seen one that didn't keep the insoluables very low on Used Oil Analysis. Very good product.

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post #16 of 75 Old 06-11-2010, 08:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blackheart View Post
Hi-Flo filters: I've never seen one that didn't keep the insoluables very low on Used Oil Analysis. Very good product.
ill be sure to do a full picture write up of the internals of the hi flo for the 919 this commin up oil change. I wish i had taken apart the K&N one that originaly came on the bike.

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post #17 of 75 Old 06-12-2010, 12:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robtharalson View Post
Castrol GTX 10W-40. Yup, plain ol' GTX. Well over 750,000 miles on various motorcycles, 600,000 of which using GTX.

Rob
+1 exactly what I use.

Slow is smooth, smooth is fast.
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post #18 of 75 Old 06-12-2010, 04:16 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks everyone for the responses!

I went to the dealership today, they reccomended I only run 10w-40 (manual says 10w-30). Strangely enough, I couldnt even find 10w-30 in the honda brand.

Also, I found it interesting that they reccomended I use kawasaki brand oil instead of honda oil in the bike. Any thoughts?

I've used rotella t in my honda magna and its been fine. However, one thing I did notice when I switched to rotella t was a slightly louder "clunk" when shifting. The bike was fine, but shifting was a bit more harsh. I was using rotella t 5w-40 full synthetic. The old honda rebel I had worked fine with castrol.

As long as the oil does not say "energy conserving", does it matter what I use?

Thanks again all! This forum is fantastic

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post #19 of 75 Old 06-12-2010, 04:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jbanke1 View Post
Thanks everyone for the responses!

I went to the dealership today, they reccomended I only run 10w-40 (manual says 10w-30). Strangely enough, I couldnt even find 10w-30 in the honda brand.

Also, I found it interesting that they reccomended I use kawasaki brand oil instead of honda oil in the bike. Any thoughts?

I've used rotella t in my honda magna and its been fine. However, one thing I did notice when I switched to rotella t was a slightly louder "clunk" when shifting. The bike was fine, but shifting was a bit more harsh. I was using rotella t 5w-40 full synthetic. The old honda rebel I had worked fine with castrol.

As long as the oil does not say "energy conserving", does it matter what I use?

Thanks again all! This forum is fantastic
pretty much you got it right there.... as long as it dont say energy conserving, you get close to whats originaly recommended as far as oil weight (ie recommended for the 919 is 10w40... but being in so cal where temps dont get to cool i run rotella t 15w40 cus its cheap... or if u lived in a cold climate 5w40 etc etc) and you change it on a regular basis ull be fine.

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post #20 of 75 Old 06-12-2010, 04:27 PM
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any advantage to using the HiFlo filters over the K&M filters?

I usually use the K&M mostly because it is a brand I trust and also because it has that handy nut welded onto the filter so I don't need a filter wrench.

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post #21 of 75 Old 06-12-2010, 04:27 PM
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Put foil over your pipes under the filter dish to drop the oil in whatever you use to catch the old oil,best oil tip ever shared for a 919...

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post #22 of 75 Old 06-12-2010, 04:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xraso View Post
any advantage to using the HiFlo filters over the K&M filters?

I usually use the K&M mostly because it is a brand I trust and also because it has that handy nut welded onto the filter so I don't need a filter wrench.
I've never run Used Oil Analysis on K&N filters. I understand they are good. Hi-Flo tend to be less expensive, and have great results.

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post #23 of 75 Old 06-12-2010, 04:46 PM
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+1 to the tinfoil - got that from Mr Mike's helpful hints and it makes cleanup MUCH easier!!

Also, forgot to mention that I have been using Castrol Actevo 10w-40 Part Synthetic. But I have been noticing shifting into and out of 1st has been pretty rough after I changed the 919 over to my usual oil.

I am thinking of going to a fully NON synthetic to see if it helps on my next change - any thoughts?

EDIT - K&N - blah, what a brainfart. Thanks for the info Blackheart - will see if I can find HiFlo filters local when I do my next change.

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post #24 of 75 Old 06-12-2010, 07:14 PM
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I was running Castrol semi-synthetic motorcycle specific oil (10w40 as per manual) BUT changed to Motul 5100 semi-synthetic after a recommendation from another rider, and the gear shifting has improved considerably. Bike has 13,000kms on it so it is run in!

No more Castrol for me ........

Hi-Flo also make filters under license for many original manufacturers. Years back I had a kawasaki branded filter compared to the Hi-Flo equivalent and they were identical. Other than the Kawasaki branded one costing over twice the price!

Also get a new drain plug washer for each change - cost F-all and this aviods oil weeps. Plus you will want a cheap filter removal strap to get the filter off.

Amsoil appears to be a popular synthetic oil in the USA.

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post #25 of 75 Old 06-12-2010, 08:26 PM Thread Starter
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The owners manual for my 2007 says to use 10w-30. But it seems like everyone uses/reccomends 10w-40. I couldnt even find the honda gn4 in 10w-30.

Is 10w-40 the only way to go? Seems if the manual says to use 10w-30, thats what I should use....

About the k&n oil filter. I've never used one, but having that one inch nut welded on the top has got to make things so much easier. A filter can be a nightmare to remove without a strap wrench....i'm sure we've all been there at some point.

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post #26 of 75 Old 06-12-2010, 11:36 PM
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Apparently on the US bikes the manual changed on the last bikes from 10w40 to 10w30 - I read here that it coincided with some government energy saving expectation or similar. Considering the vast bulk of the global 919's were recommended to use 10w40, you'll be just fine on it!

After all nothing changed in the engines!

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post #27 of 75 Old 06-13-2010, 07:49 AM
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[QUOTE=xraso;401004
I am thinking of going to a fully NON synthetic to see if it helps on my next change - any thoughts?
[/QUOTE]

I always seem to get better shifting with Full-Synthetics that are NOT labeled "Motorcycle". Could be just coincidence, I haven't really studied it, but, on my other bikes, the same thing seems to be true. In fact, once I dumped out a fresh fill of Mobil 1 Motorcycle oil because the shifting was so poor, and the shifting improved noticeably. OOPs, I just noticed that was on a different bike than the 919....so, take that with a grain of salt.

But, it makes me wonder if some of the Motorcyle-labeled oils go overboard with trying to make sure the wet clutch performance is as tight as possible, and the lack of friction modifiers is over-done? I really don't know...I haven't studied it.

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post #28 of 75 Old 06-13-2010, 06:44 PM Thread Starter
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A full synthetic that isnt for motorcycles, would that work? Seems all the non motorcycle full synthetic has the energy conserving label on it.

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post #29 of 75 Old 06-13-2010, 06:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jbanke1 View Post
A full synthetic that isnt for motorcycles, would that work? Seems all the non motorcycle full synthetic has the energy conserving label on it.
Any one I've ever tried that did NOT have "Energy Conserving" on the label has worked fine for me. They've all been Xw-40 or Xw-50 weights, though. And, on the CB, it's Xw-40 weight that I'd be choosing.

I've never tried one that says "Energy Conserving", for concern over the possibility of wet-clutch slippage...although I'm not POSITIVE all of the "Energy Conserving" oils will definitely result in clutch slippage...it's easy enough to avoid them.

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post #30 of 75 Old 06-13-2010, 07:00 PM Thread Starter
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Good to know, I didnt realize I could find non motorcycle synthetic that didnt have the energy conserving label on it.

My 919 has a little more than 110 miles on it. I think once the engine is fully broken in, I'm going to start using synthetic. This bike is going to stay with me for a while =)

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post #31 of 75 Old 06-13-2010, 10:05 PM
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You can find out if an oil is Energy Conserving or not by looking on the manufacturer's website. For example, Valvoline Synpower (one of the synthetics) is "Energy Conserving" only in the Xw-30weights or lower (which is what you'll find on most brands). The Xw-40's or Xw-50's are not "Energy Conserving".

I happened to find 12 quarts Synpower on sale, which I bought for my two Thumpers in the 20w-50 flavor. While Valvoline may or may not be "great" for a synthetic...at less than 3.00 per quart for use in two single cylinder 650's for about 1500 miles, it will do perfectly fine.

I keep my eye out for decent synthetic 5w-40's for the 919. Almost any of them will be fine.

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post #32 of 75 Old 06-16-2010, 08:58 PM Thread Starter
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I found some honda gn4 10w-30 and bought 4 quarts. Will be doing the oil change this weekend. Wish me luck!

Since the coolant is orignal (3 years old) should I also be changing it? Can I use the "standard" green coolant? The bottle says it will work with any engine.

Thoughts?

Thanks again all!

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post #33 of 75 Old 06-17-2010, 06:42 AM
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Make sure you change your clutch fluid while you're at it. Its right there most people over look it.

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post #34 of 75 Old 06-17-2010, 06:55 AM
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Quote:
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Make sure you change your clutch fluid while you're at it.

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post #35 of 75 Old 06-17-2010, 08:21 AM
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Just made a order for this
Castrol Power 1 Racing 4T 10W-50 vollsynth 4 L (8,50?/l bei eBay.de: Zubehör (endet 15.07.10 20:51:11 MESZ)
I don't know what kind of prices you pay - but it is quite cheap for a super class oil here in europe

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post #36 of 75 Old 06-18-2010, 02:15 PM
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I've been using the Rotella T 15W-40, it states on the jug that it meets JASO/MA which is Japanese spec for 4 stroke motorcycles with wet clutch. Apparently one of the synthetics also meets JASO/MA.

Shell Rotella T - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

It likes to be changed every 1000-1500 miles which I think is what most people do anyway.

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post #37 of 75 Old 06-18-2010, 02:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hornet919 View Post
just go to your dealer and get the honda 10/40. its cheap and made by honda. cant go wrong.
+1

I've been using the GN4 honda oil since day one on my 07 919, and that was 35k trouble free miles ago...

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post #38 of 75 Old 06-18-2010, 04:55 PM
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Quote:
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It likes to be changed every 1000-1500 miles which I think is what most people do anyway.
Uh... I must not be "most" people.

I change my bikes oil every 3-4500 miles.
I think I even forgot once and went 5000(!) miles on my Hayabusa before changing the oil.

Admittedly, I usually sell my bikes in the 40-60k mile range, so I can't say for sure that I've not caused any issues.

I think the propensity of people changing their < 3000 miles is slightly over-done. However, if it makes you feel good to do it, then do it.

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post #39 of 75 Old 06-18-2010, 05:09 PM
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in my cars i go 4k.... on my 919 i go 2500-3k due to the fact that it revs much more and the 1 gallon of oil is shared between engine, clutch and transmission lubing duties, unlike in cars where you have engine oil separated from transmission oil... and rarely have a wet clutch.

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post #40 of 75 Old 06-21-2010, 02:27 PM Thread Starter
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so what do I use for my transmission fluid?

HAHA....wet clutch...I know.

Thanks again all!

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