New chain questions - Wrist Twisters
 
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post #1 of 14 Old 03-24-2006, 08:19 AM
jbreddawg
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New chain questions

Hi all, I'm looking to replace my chain. Purly for cosmetic reasons lol !! I want gold to match my other accents. My sprockets are still in mint condition, so i figure a chain is all I need. My questions are, I see chains with master links and without . Is there anything wrong with using the one with a masterlink ? Or should I go through the extra trouble of removing the swingarm to install a premade chain ? Also, should I stick with the stock 114,530 chain ? or use this time to upgrade to something better ? Thanks in advance !! Jerry

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post #2 of 14 Old 03-24-2006, 09:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jbreddawg
Hi all, I'm looking to replace my chain. Purly for cosmetic reasons lol !! I want gold to match my other accents. My sprockets are still in mint condition, so i figure a chain is all I need. My questions are, I see chains with master links and without . Is there anything wrong with using the one with a masterlink ? Or should I go through the extra trouble of removing the swingarm to install a premade chain ? Also, should I stick with the stock 114,530 chain ? or use this time to upgrade to something better ? Thanks in advance !! Jerry
lets try this:

1. What type of bike? Need to determine if the 520/530 chain conversion is worth it. The 520 will work on bigger bikes as chains have gotten stronger. But if you like to pull long wheelies and do street riding, stick with the 530 for added life and strength.

2. Removing the swingarm does not take the OEM "riveted" chain off. You have to remove a link to do that. Most chains go through the rear swingarm. Rule of thumb, if you dont check your chain regularly, get a rivetted master link. If you check it on a regular basis to ensure it is still in place, a correctly installed clip master link will work fine.

That being said, I will never run a clip on again as I have a chain come apart on me when the master link failed. Spend the extra $$$ and get the tools to do the rivetting.

-Dave



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post #3 of 14 Old 03-24-2006, 10:20 AM
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Keep in mind too that if you changed to a 520 chain, those mint sprockets have to go too and you have to get some that fit up to the 520 chain.

I've never actually heard of a premade chain? Where did you see that?

Oh, and rivet it on... that's my two cents

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post #4 of 14 Old 03-24-2006, 05:37 PM
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If you remove the swingarm on some bikes you can get the chain off without "removing a rivet." On a Superhawk you can get the chain off without removing a rivet or the swingarm. The "premade" chains are just pre-cut to length and "pre-riveted".

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post #5 of 14 Old 03-25-2006, 08:30 AM
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I can only Guess this is for the 919 and not your warrior.If you are staying with the stock sized sprockets get a 112 link chain,get a riveted type chain and the right tools to put it on or have a shop do it.

If you are runnng over or under sized sprockets buy the chain to big and cut it to fit...sure beats having it to short!

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post #6 of 14 Old 03-26-2006, 05:37 PM
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Thanks guys !! Yes it's for my 919 . I just want stock, but gold. I don't do wheelies or anything like that. I have found the chains on ebay either premade/prerivited,or with a master. I have decided to stick with a rivited chain. I havn't really looked to see if I could remove the chain without breaking it. I'm assuming now that you can't .I guess I will just have to take it to a shop to have them install it. Thanks for all the replies !!

post #7 of 14 Old 03-27-2006, 02:26 PM
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jbreddawg,

You can remove or install the chain on the 919 without breaking it.

Here are the steps as best I can remember:

1. 919 on center stand, remove the rear wheel.
2. remove the rear hugger.
3. remove the swing arm pivot bolt nut and washer.
4. using the rear axle bolt to push out the swing arm pivot bolt from the right side. The bolt will come out on the left. The idea is to hold the swing arm in place with the axle bolt so you can remove the left side Pivot Bracket, also referred to as an engine bracket though it does not hold or attach to the engine.
5. Remove the the left Pivot bracket. It is held with two 14mm head bolts.
6. remove the front sprocket cover
7. remove chain. Note: removing the front sprocket may make this easier.

Reassembly is these steps in reverse order of course. It sounds complicated.. but it's really not at all.

NOTE: a rear stand will not work unless you are very crafty and have help. I have done this with a rear stand instead of a center stand.. but I don't want to explain about it here and have you pissed at me in the event things go wrong. Lets just say that since the rear spring is under tension.. you have to use a hammer and work fast while your help keeps weight on the bike. Don't do it this way. Use a center stand.

Tell ya what makes it all easier.. a clip style master link. I punish one daily and it holds fine.

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post #8 of 14 Old 03-27-2006, 03:02 PM
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If you think you might like to work on your bikes in the future, pick up a Motion Pro Chain removal and rivet tool. Many of us here in the bike world have bought this MOST EXCELLENT tool and found it to PARTY ON DUDE with every new chain. Like most enthusiasts, I have learned that the bestr master link is a riveted one, however you must be proficient enough to create the proper rivet. The Motion Pro folks take care of giving you a good illustration and explanation of proper riveting. If you feel any hesitation, take the new chain to the shop and let a mech do it. You can save a stock chain and re-use it if you grind off and punch out the master link and buy a new one.

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post #9 of 14 Old 03-27-2006, 03:05 PM
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Quote:
Tell ya what makes it all easier.. a clip style master link. I punish one daily and it holds fine.
Clip type master links might be fine on a small displacement dirt bikes but I would not recommend one on a 919. Sure, you might get lucky but do you want to take that chance. If you ever saw what happens to a engine case when a chain lets loose, it's not a pretty sight. Then there is the other possibility if that chain comes apart gets tangled up in the wheel. You know what that could lead to.
Use a rivet type master link...

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post #10 of 14 Old 03-27-2006, 05:10 PM
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I agree.. the tool not that much. Alot cheaper than a case.

Quote:
Originally Posted by m51142
Clip type master links might be fine on a small displacement dirt bikes but I would not recommend one on a 919. Sure, you might get lucky but do you want to take that chance. If you ever saw what happens to a engine case when a chain lets loose, it's not a pretty sight. Then there is the other possibility if that chain comes apart gets tangled up in the wheel. You know what that could lead to.
Use a rivet type master link...

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post #11 of 14 Old 03-28-2006, 01:13 PM
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Thanks !! I am going to buy a premade one. I am a mechanic by trade, just wanted to ask questions before tackling the job. Thanks so much !!

post #12 of 14 Old 03-28-2006, 02:40 PM
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Don't forget to tell us where you bought your premade chain.

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post #13 of 14 Old 03-28-2006, 05:39 PM
 
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dunno why you guys are so paranoid about clip style links...

I have been running them for 10 years on street bikes ... never once had one even loosen the clip... If you know what you are doing when you install one and not bend the clip all to hell and make sure you keep the chain well maintained the odds of one comming apart are just as high as a riveted chain failing due to improper riveting and/or poor quality chain.


I was talking to the mechanic at the honda shop about this very thing yesterday when I picked up a new chain for my brothers 599. He agrees with me but he also has known me for 12 years and that I actually pay attention to chain maintenance and proper installation... He said most people that come in to the shop, he rivets the chain and recommends they do it that way... He showed me a pile of chains in a crate from the "spring" service's he has done in the last 2 weeks... I was horrified to see how poorly maintained some of the chains were, one off a 1000rr 2005 7000 miles and the chain was GARBAGE. Rivet links are made to save dummies like that's lives.

moral of the story...

rivet link If you are a dummy and ride it till it pukes
clip links or rivets are fine if you take care of them.

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post #14 of 14 Old 03-28-2006, 07:44 PM
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erhhhhhhhhhhhh erhhhhhhhhhhh
Sorry, no ceegar for you Typhoon blue. While there is no cure for stoopid in terms of the chain abusers you described (sheesh 7K miles on the 1000rr chain is criminal neglect), a riveted link properly done will always be stronger than a clip link properly done. There are reasons for these type of chains on high performance bikes. If in my heart of hearts I felt that a clip masterlink was OK for my bikes, I would never have bought and learned how to use a proffesional link riveter. I do not wish to sway you from your position as it seems you have a good record of success, but I myself and others I know must respectfully disagree.

“In my opinion, the M1 rifle is the greatest battle implement ever devised.”
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