New 919 and a question - Wrist Twisters
 
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post #1 of 22 Old 06-04-2010, 09:27 AM Thread Starter
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New 919 and a question

I recently purchased a 2007 Honda 919 with 7500 miles on the odometer. Bike runs great and is definitely a step up from my 1981 Honda CM400E.

The bike has billet sliders installed on the motor and from what I can tell this is bad. I want to remove the sliders, but I do not know the part number for the bolts that should go there. I think the bolts for the sliders are too long, so I would like the correct ones.

Could someone give me a part number so I can get them ordered? I am planning on ordering through cheapcycleparts, so either their part number or the OEM Honda number.

Thanks,

Jon






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post #2 of 22 Old 06-04-2010, 09:33 AM
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post #3 of 22 Old 06-04-2010, 09:43 AM
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Hey Sodakshooter, that looks like a good bike! It already has a comfy seat installed so that's one major purchase you wont need to make.... Oh, and good for you for relocating your sliders! Welcome to WT

Well, fire the engines! Spur this iron space-pony on!

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post #4 of 22 Old 06-04-2010, 12:45 PM
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I have a set of T-rex sliders and the instructions say to put em there at the motor. I got nervous and took em off cause I figured rash was better than broken motor cases. Is that empty bolt hole spot covered by a rubber plug threaded or what? How do you attach em to the frame instead of the motor if that hole isn't threaded?

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post #5 of 22 Old 06-04-2010, 01:18 PM
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On mine, I bought the longest grade 8 bolts I could find, and drilled and tapped the hole that is already in your frame, just in front of where they're mounted on the engine (the square indentation with the hole in the middle of it. I think a few companies make sliders for the 919 in this location, but I just retrofitted mine.

You may want to add spacers to make them stick out far enough to be effective. For this, you can either have a machine shop spin up some quick spacers on the lathe, or just use washers/aluminum stock/whatever you can find.

Let me know if you have questions. I can post/send pics if needed if you want to show a machine shop what you want.

2002 Honda 919: Erion Racing slip-ons, Givi bags/windsheild, Napoleon bar end mirrors, Pro Taper 1 1/8 bars, sliders, etc
1994 Suzuki GS500e: Completely redone suspension, V&H exhaust, fun little bike
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post #6 of 22 Old 06-04-2010, 02:30 PM
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Welcome, nice bike, looks just like mine...

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post #7 of 22 Old 06-04-2010, 06:07 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks Jeef, I thought those were the part, but was not sure. I got them ordered.

I love this bike. Love the forum, so much good information.

Jon

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post #8 of 22 Old 06-05-2010, 06:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1fastrex View Post
I have a set of T-rex sliders and the instructions say to put em there at the motor. I got nervous and took em off cause I figured rash was better than broken motor cases. Is that empty bolt hole spot covered by a rubber plug threaded or what? How do you attach em to the frame instead of the motor if that hole isn't threaded?
A lot of people use the motovation sliders. They come with a long threaded rod that passes all the way through both sliders. Makes for a really strong setup.

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post #9 of 22 Old 06-05-2010, 10:06 AM
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I also received a used bike with a set of SATO sliders in the engine mount location........ was wondering about the Givi engine guards/cages instead.

Any mounting worries with these?

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post #10 of 22 Old 06-05-2010, 10:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by arctic954 View Post
I also received a used bike with a set of SATO sliders in the engine mount location........ was wondering about the Givi engine guards/cages instead.

Any mounting worries with these?

Other than you need three hands, no issues mounting the Givi guards, I love mine.

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post #11 of 22 Old 06-05-2010, 11:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by catonsvilleguy View Post
A lot of people use the motovation sliders. They come with a long threaded rod that passes all the way through both sliders. Makes for a really strong setup.
The Motovation sliders are the ones I went with...

Honda CB900F / 919 Hornet Frame Sliders

you will have to drill out the pre-existing holes to accommodate the size of the rod (10mm if I remember correctly). Patience and lots of cutting oil with a good carbide-tipped drill bit. Be careful to get the holes very straight, or getting the rod through the holes on both sides could be difficult. I found having the bike on a centerstand while drilling made it much easier.

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post #12 of 22 Old 06-05-2010, 12:00 PM
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welcome...

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post #13 of 22 Old 06-07-2010, 01:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by catonsvilleguy View Post
A lot of people use the motovation sliders. They come with a long threaded rod that passes all the way through both sliders. Makes for a really strong setup.




Here's a great cheap fix for the sliders you already have....like mine. I went to Tractor Supply (Lowes, Menards, Home Depot will work too) and bought a threaded piece of stock long enough to go all the way through the frame holes and cut the threaded stock to length (about 18"inches) and bolted my existing sliders right to the stock. Worked like a charm and looks like they belong there. I posted this just in case anybody was curious how to get around it. The threaded piece of stock was $1.79 and is long enough to do it twice in case you cut it short or something.

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post #14 of 22 Old 06-07-2010, 02:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1fastrex View Post
Here's a great cheap fix for the sliders you already have....like mine. I went to Tractor Supply (Lowes, Menards, Home Depot will work too) and bought a threaded piece of stock long enough to go all the way through the frame holes and cut the threaded stock to length (about 18"inches) and bolted my existing sliders right to the stock. Worked like a charm and looks like they belong there. I posted this just in case anybody was curious how to get around it. The threaded piece of stock was $1.79 and is long enough to do it twice in case you cut it short or something.
i feel as though using threaded rod all the way through the frame mount location is kinda bad... that threaded rod is SOFT and will most likely bend or break upon impact... hence why when i moved my sliders i went with the biggest grade 8 bolt ... a fine thread SAE slightly smaller than 1/2in then drilled and taped the holes for the bolt.

As far as the bolts on the engine i used the highest grade 8 or 10mm bolt i could find at the hardware store that was the right length works like a charm.

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post #15 of 22 Old 06-07-2010, 05:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nd4spdbh View Post
i feel as though using threaded rod all the way through the frame mount location is kinda bad... that threaded rod is SOFT and will most likely bend or break upon impact... hence why when i moved my sliders i went with the biggest grade 8 bolt ... a fine thread SAE slightly smaller than 1/2in then drilled and taped the holes for the bolt.

As far as the bolts on the engine i used the highest grade 8 or 10mm bolt i could find at the hardware store that was the right length works like a charm.
On the other hand, all that leverage applied to just one frame section is more likely to twist it and trash your frame. I feel the rod all the way through is structurally superior and much less likely to inflict damage on your frame.

That's my technical opinion for what it's worth.

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post #16 of 22 Old 06-07-2010, 06:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by catonsvilleguy View Post
On the other hand, all that leverage applied to just one frame section is more likely to twist it and trash your frame. I feel the rod all the way through is structurally superior and much less likely to inflict damage on your frame.


That was kinda my thought as well. I hope if I ever crash... it does give or bend or even break the threaded stock piece to absorb the impact. I feel alot better with em where they are rather having my engine cases take a shot that will most likely crack em or have one side of the frame take all the stress. To each his own I guess.

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post #17 of 22 Old 06-07-2010, 06:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1fastrex View Post
That was kinda my thought as well. I hope if I ever crash... it does give or bend or even break the threaded stock piece to absorb the impact. I feel alot better with em where they are rather having my engine cases take a shot that will most likely crack em or have one side of the frame take all the stress. To each his own I guess.
then whats the point of the slider if upon initial impact it bends and breaks out of the way then road meets side case?

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post #18 of 22 Old 06-07-2010, 06:35 PM
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If you look around, you can find SS all thread. I used that and have the Givi cage too. I wrapped a layer of black tape around the double ended plugs that hold the cage together and you have no vibration noise.
You can move your feet around on the cage, to stretch!!!

[
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post #19 of 22 Old 06-07-2010, 09:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nd4spdbh View Post
then whats the point of the slider if upon initial impact it bends and breaks out of the way then road meets side case?
Hopefully your slider slides upon initial impact. I'm not an expert, but I've always thought that's why they made them out of Delrin, because it's slippery. I could be wrong though - I don't have any, so they could be made out of granite for all I know.

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post #20 of 22 Old 06-08-2010, 12:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nd4spdbh View Post
then whats the point of the slider if upon initial impact it bends and breaks out of the way then road meets side case?




Well, hopefully it won't break and will slide on its side as intended but with this bike you only have a couple options on where to put em. I opt for the frame and not the motor mounted positon myself. There's no guarantees on anything when you crash anyway. Usually, you just get up and run for the bike and hope for the best.

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post #21 of 22 Old 06-08-2010, 02:37 AM
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The secret to frame sliders is ............................... not falling off!

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post #22 of 22 Old 06-08-2010, 08:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AllanB View Post
The secret to frame sliders is not falling off!



So true, and if you do it enough.....!

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