Need help choosing new gearing!!! - Wrist Twisters
 
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post #1 of 33 Old 08-30-2006, 07:39 PM Thread Starter
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Need help choosing new gearing!!!

Now ive read about the 17 tooth sprocket change and the the 44 tooth change but i wanted to get everyones advise. (It seems lately i wont touch my bike without looking on here for a thread about it first!)

My perdicament:

I commute 50 some odd miles to work and is 100% highway, i usually cruise around 90 ish

I live in a city and spend most of my non commuting time in 1st and secound gear

On weekends i cut loose and hit the mid 100's to get the old rush back

SO i was wondering what the best gering combo is for my style or w/e you guys would suggest

Sorry for the long post and any advise would be greatly appreciated

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post #2 of 33 Old 08-30-2006, 10:29 PM
 
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Well Pat this sounds pretty much exactly my situation, though a little less often on the highway. Just this week i ordered new sprockets, i went with the oft suggested 17 toother. I'll let you know how i feel about it first impression wise, hopefully by this weekend, that is if anyone responds to my thread on the subject.
I considered because of the city driving going to somthing with a torquier gearin' but about the same time we bought my wife a bike, its slower and she isn't too aggressive with it either, so i certainly didnt need to get zippin' around and making the disparity even worse.

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post #3 of 33 Old 08-30-2006, 11:56 PM
 
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I went 15/45 a long time ago and won't go back.

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post #4 of 33 Old 08-31-2006, 04:51 AM
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Bigassbertha, 15/45 is the gearing that gives the bike a torquier feel with less top-end, right? That is what I want.

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post #5 of 33 Old 08-31-2006, 05:40 AM
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Gearing spreadsheet

Go to http://www.919.org/ LDH has a gearing spreadsheet. You can plug in any combination of sprockets and get a wealth of information.

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post #6 of 33 Old 08-31-2006, 06:27 AM Thread Starter
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Well im looking for a a comfer table but still usable ride

I know that going to a 17 tooth sproket will remedy the speedo problem but if i put a 44 in the back will it throw it off again?

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post #7 of 33 Old 08-31-2006, 06:45 AM
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If you are worried about speedometer error get yourself a Speedohealer and be done with it!

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post #8 of 33 Old 08-31-2006, 07:01 AM
 
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With your commuting I would stick with the stock gears.

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post #9 of 33 Old 08-31-2006, 07:02 AM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by m51142 View Post
Go to http://www.919.org/ LDH has a gearing spreadsheet. You can plug in any combination of sprockets and get a wealth of information.
I can't get to AOL. If you give me the gearing ratios I can post one here for you guys. I have one for any bike. I just need the gears.

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post #10 of 33 Old 08-31-2006, 07:06 AM
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i use the jim ahlman recalibrator on the 919...works like a champ, plug and play

not sure what happened to J.A.'s website, heard the box is now sold through a distributor i think

pat, split the difference between 16/43 and 15/45....the 15/45 is way buzzy on the highway and 1st gear is a drag around town, of course, it should be known that despite the obvious downsides, i've been unable to remove the 15/45 setup from my bike due to the 'fun' factor

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post #11 of 33 Old 08-31-2006, 10:51 AM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tpirman View Post
Bigassbertha, 15/45 is the gearing that gives the bike a torquier feel with less top-end, right? That is what I want.
If you mean less top-end speed, yes possibly, though what business a 919 has above 150 mph is beyond me. If you mean less top-end power, then no.

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post #12 of 33 Old 08-31-2006, 11:27 AM
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What the 919 needs is a 7th gear

Anyway... I have resolved to simply changing the sprockets as I need them.

15/45 - front tire won't stop floating.
15/43 - punchy funness with a kick
16/45 - still punchy funness
16/43 - stock
17/45 - virtually same as stock
17/43 - lots of highway

Don't have a 44 rear as I could never find one?

Patmicg,

Based on your description of what you need and the speeds you travel (wish I could get away with 90ish.. anyway...) get the 17t front and leave the stock at 43.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ratdog
... it should be known that despite the obvious downsides, I've been unable to remove the 15/45 setup from my bike due to the 'fun' factor
I know exactly what you are talking about.. exactly!

- Rev. CYCHO -

tires.... it's what's for dinner!
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post #13 of 33 Old 08-31-2006, 12:29 PM
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16/45 here, works well apart from the speedo error.

post #14 of 33 Old 09-11-2006, 04:55 PM
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What I meant to say (because I guess I don't know how to phrase it) is I want more torque and don't care about sacrificing top-speed. I don't care about going over 100MPH, but take off quick would be nice.

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post #15 of 33 Old 09-12-2006, 07:15 AM
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Quick take off is one thing, elapsed time is another. Many of the 1/4 mile guys have reported faster ET's with taller gearing because they spend less time fighting the front wheel coming off the ground & less time shifting.

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post #16 of 33 Old 09-12-2006, 01:28 PM
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With your commute I would steer you away from the 'fun' 15/45 setup - you'll be riding like a hooligan around town but with a 100 mile roundtrip at 90mph you will end up hating that setup. Here's some gear ratios (listed from mildest to wildest) to help you figure which direction you want to go. The larger the number the more punch and less top speed (3.00 is more punchy than 2.68)

17/43 - 2.52
17/44 - 2.58
17/45 - 2.64
16/43 - 2.68 (stock)
16/44 - 2.75
16/45 - 2.81
15/43 - 2.86
15/44 - 2.93
15/45 - 3.00

I started with the stock setup and moved up to 16/45 (2.81) and it was fun, but a bit buzzier than I wanted so I took a step back to 16/44 (2.75) and found that to be the best setup for me. It works great stoplight to stoplight through the city, isn't too buzzy on the highway, has plenty of mid and up punch for high speed mountain roads, and still works well for the occasional track day.
Hope that helps.
Mike

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post #17 of 33 Old 09-12-2006, 07:51 PM
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Lately I have been running the 17 up front with the stock rear. I had some summer work comuting to do and I really liked it. As far as the twisties go, just drop a gear and keep it cookin near redline, and you'll never know the difference.

Cheap speedo healer. Smooth engine on the highway. Still power wheelies in frist.

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post #18 of 33 Old 09-13-2006, 10:06 AM
 
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Any recommendations on where to buy a chain and sprockets?

Any comments on the 520 chain replacements that are available?

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post #19 of 33 Old 09-13-2006, 10:07 AM
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Dan Kyle www.kyleusa.com usually has them in stock. He sells DID chain & AFAM sprockets the best you can buy of both & his prices are more than fair

I probably wouldn't go with a 520 conversion on the 919 myself, but there is nothing really wrong with it. The 530 just provides a little less wear & tear over the long haul & since I am not racing the 919 then it doesn't really require every last ounce of weight savings etc...

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post #20 of 33 Old 09-13-2006, 11:32 AM
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I like Sprocket Specialist and have had great customer service from them over the years.

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post #21 of 33 Old 09-13-2006, 11:59 AM
 
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i just recieved my chain and sprocket replacements from dan kyle myself! only 3 weeks after i ordered them i called to get a tracking # from them just to make sure ups didnt lose my stuff... which they gave me, so i tracked the package which.. showed.. nothing. So i called back and asked if it had been shipped, the answer was no, not sure why the lady that gave me the tracking number didnt just say, "we havent done anything with it other than charge you" in fact they didnt have my parts in because they gave the ones i ordered to service... ... ... well i have them now anyway

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post #22 of 33 Old 09-13-2006, 01:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ranger919er View Post
I like Sprocket Specialist and have had great customer service from them over the years.
They are pretty good, but get the Titan Tough (hard anodized) if you buy from them. the Hard Anodizing process greatly extends the life of the sprockets which is why the AFAM's last so much longer than any other brand. AFAM doesn't advertise it specifically, but I used to be in the rotational molding industry & when we had certain parts hard anodized with teflon impregnation the parts came back looking exactly like the AFAM sprockets look so I am relatively sure they apply that same process to their sprockets.

BTW I used to buy Renthal Sprockets & paid big money to get them because I fell into the hype that if the HRC race teams used them they must be good, well they aren't they suck & don't last for ****... The only thing I have used that is worse than Renthal would be Vortex.

Oh & I have over 300,000 street miles under my belt & I don't know how many track miles so I have used a lot of chains & sprockets.... (had some shaft drives too though )

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post #23 of 33 Old 09-13-2006, 09:50 PM
 
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Thanks Lord Duckhunter and m51142 for the advise and of course Kyle Racing for being open on Labor Day...

I finally got mine too...I ordered the 520 chain and the 17/44 sprockets. The chain is the RK Gold and AFAM sprockets.

I just got them on the bike on Tuesday evening. I can definately tell the difference in gear shifting. It is weird/ interesting having the rpms higher than the stock 16/43, but I guess I will get used to it for the next 10,000 or so miles.

I actually think that I would like to try 16/44 setup and I'll probably go back to the 530 DID silver chain for longer use.

I just think that you have to try something different and see how you like/dislike it.

Try something new!!!

Thanks again for all your advise...keep it coming!!!

Hugs
Star

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post #24 of 33 Old 02-01-2007, 06:51 AM
 
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my gearing is now 17/43 after reading that this is the best combination for hiway use. i should have lower rpms in slightly higer speed eg 3.5k rpm=100kph for this set up but i'm still getting 4k rpm=100kph(stock) on my speedo. the speedo will still show the old speed? am i correct to say that my speed sensor still doesn't know i have changed the gearing? i did noticed that i have a lower(2km difference) trip reading from my house to workplace taking the same route.

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post #25 of 33 Old 02-01-2007, 07:12 AM
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I would have to look at the notes I made when I get home to give you accurate numbers, but I can say with confidence that I cruise down the highway much smoother with the 17-tooth, and the speedo is accurate now.

-Joe
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post #26 of 33 Old 02-01-2007, 07:22 AM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hooker_47 View Post
I would have to look at the notes I made when I get home to give you accurate numbers, but I can say with confidence that I cruise down the highway much smoother with the 17-tooth, and the speedo is accurate now.
oh, why didn't i think of using my gps to check instead of letting it sit around doing nothing.....:chris:

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post #27 of 33 Old 02-01-2007, 10:30 AM
 
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Smokin, your gauges will indicate the same speed to rpm relationship as before. The difference is before, when the speedometer said you were traveling 60mph, your rpms were 4000, your real speed was only 55mph (these number are just for example), now your speedo is indicating 60mph, your rpms are 4000, and your real speed is now 60mph. This means you are traveling at a higher speed which is why the rpms are the same. Hope that makes sense.

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post #28 of 33 Old 02-01-2007, 11:30 AM
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15/43 Here, not bad str8

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post #29 of 33 Old 02-01-2007, 02:06 PM
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Well I ride the hwy quite a bit also.Did the 17/43 lost to much on the bottom end for my taste.Went to the 17/44 and really like it ,thought I would never change it.Then I ran into a deal on the 520 kit with a 16/41.The taller gearing is more than enough to calm the hwy ride and there is no loss in the bottom if anything it is stronger.Weight loss here is worth more than I thought possable.(yes I thought it was a poser mod!)As for wear I havn't noticed any differance at all!Now if you ride real hard I'm sure that the 530 would be the better choice.For daily commute duty with the every now and then blast, it will hold up fine.

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post #30 of 33 Old 02-01-2007, 11:34 PM
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The 16/41 combination sounds excellent from the viewpoint of a better highway cruise. (17/44 = 2.588:1 16/41 = 2.563:1) Of equal importance is the fact that it is by far the least expensive alternative as well. Just the rear sprocket and a rivet link for the chain, and your'e good to go.

Stick with the 530 chain -- while there may be a variety of performance advantages from a 520 chain, the fact remains that it is simply smaller and therefore loaded closer to it's maximum, thus in the long haul will wear out more quickly.

One last thing: install a chain oiler. Systems are available from microprocessor controlled, reading speed and humidity to adjust oil flow, to the more basic but still excellent automatics such as a Scottoiler, to what I like to call the cheap way -- a clear bottle of oil mounted where it can be easily squeezed while riding, feeding a tube leading to the chain. You absolutely will not regret it!
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post #31 of 33 Old 02-02-2007, 06:48 AM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by motorwerks919 View Post
Smokin, your gauges will indicate the same speed to rpm relationship as before. The difference is before, when the speedometer said you were traveling 60mph, your rpms were 4000, your real speed was only 55mph (these number are just for example), now your speedo is indicating 60mph, your rpms are 4000, and your real speed is now 60mph. This means you are traveling at a higher speed which is why the rpms are the same. Hope that makes sense.
i understand now. that was a clearer explanation.

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post #32 of 33 Old 02-02-2007, 06:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robtharalson View Post
The 16/41 combination sounds excellent from the viewpoint of a better highway cruise. (17/44 = 2.588:1 16/41 = 2.563:1) Of equal importance is the fact that it is by far the least expensive alternative as well. Just the rear sprocket and a rivet link for the chain, and your'e good to go.
Going to a 16/41 doesn't help the problem with the chain already being a couple links too long though. Many owners were already close to the end of their chain adjustment range with relatively very low miles on the bike. the 17/44 removes that extra slack.

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post #33 of 33 Old 02-02-2007, 11:29 AM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lord Duckhunter View Post
Going to a 16/41 doesn't help the problem with the chain already being a couple links too long though. Many owners were already close to the end of their chain adjustment range with relatively very low miles on the bike. the 17/44 removes that extra slack.
Also, 17/44 is going to mean slightly less fling and less stress/less noise from the chain and sprockets. This is why I like big sprockets.

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