Middle of RC51 conversion... - Wrist Twisters
 
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post #1 of 35 Old 10-17-2006, 08:12 AM Thread Starter
 
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Middle of RC51 conversion...

Hi all, hopefully everyone's not too sick and tired of this topic, because I could really use some help. I just tore down my 02 919 last night, and have basically been following, or more like recollecting, the project919 thread about this conversion. If my memory serves me, all I need to do is push the stem out about a quarter inch, do some machining on the top clamp (flatten out the bottom and take about a 1/16th or so off the top and bottom around the stem hole) to get enough threads, and use the RC bearings since the 919 bearings (bottom anyway) is too small. Well, before doing any of this, other than flattening out the top plate, It just doesn't seem like I'm going to have enough threads. Am I missing something here? Is there a different dust cap/bottom cover, lock nut, bearing combo that I need to be considering? Or is this just an illusion, and I just need to have faith in the jedi 919 force.

Also, I made 1 pass at pushing out the stem on a hydraulic press, but it didn't want to move. I can't remember how much pressure was applied, but it was enough to shroom the aluminum round stock I was using to press it out. Anyway, I was just going to put some heat to it tonight before trying again, but I wanted to run this by everone first as well.

Oh, and one more thing. How the hell do you get those damn key ignition bolts off the top triple clamp? I was just going to grind the heads off, but any other solutions would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance for any and all comments on my questions here, as well as any other unforeseeables that may come up.

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post #2 of 35 Old 10-17-2006, 11:00 AM
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NoPo, I believe we PM'd before through Project919. I'm at least 6 months behind you on the same project - I'm still purchasing all the pieces and still have a ways to go...
I was told NOT to press out the stem, but to take the stem to a machine shop and have them make you a duplicate, just 1/4 inch longer.
I may be wrong, but if you're able to grind 1/4" off the bottom side of the top clamp, would you still need to press the stem out 1/4"?
I haven't taken mine apart yet to look at anything so I'll have to go back and re-read the threads to see what they say about which bearings to use - I haven't read it in months so I don't remember.
Are you using the stock RC clamps with clip-ons or having something custom made?
Sorry I'm not able to be any more help.
Mike

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post #3 of 35 Old 10-17-2006, 11:34 AM
 
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Well I suppose I'm about 15 months ahead of you on the project, so I guess I'm the go to guy!

Ignition bolts- I don't quite recall what the heads looked like, but if I remember correctly I pounded something (maybe a star bit) into the head to get them out. Next option was grinding. Grinding a slot into them with a dremel might get them out with a screwdriver for all I know.

Stem- I've done a lot of thinking on this in the past, and I don't know what, if anything, I got out of pressing the steering stem out. Seems to me the bearings would have been in the same place. And yes, if there is anything to be gained from it, it's a pain in the ass to press out. I heated the clamp before pressing and still managed to tweak the lower clamp just enough that getting the axle to slide in isn't quite perfect.

Bearings- as I recall, they're basically the same between the 00-01 rc and 919. Hopefully neither of you made the mistake of getting post-01 rc parts, as there is no way to make them work.

I'd say best bet is to grind on the top clamp, grind off the threadless flange on the upper stem nut, etc, to gain enough room for threads. I could have used a few more threads myself, but the bike hasn't broken in half yet!

Also- I don't know if it's possible, but it may be an option to refrain from grinding portions of the upper triple clamp so that they may be used as steering stops. Just an option. I have no steering stops, or won't until I fit my stabilizer.

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post #4 of 35 Old 10-17-2006, 11:41 AM Thread Starter
 
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Yeah, we were discussing this very subject. Nice to hear from you again md! I found a smokin deal on my RC front end that I couldn't refuse. I still had a few odds and ends to buy over the months...and here I am.

I was thinking about turning a new stem, but I could swear no one doing the conversion on the project919 site pressed in a new stem. That can't be very cheap either. Pressing it out should be ok, it's just that I think I've got to make up more than just a 1/4 to 3/8's of an inch. An eyball comparison of the stems looks like I need to make up more like a 1/2 inch or more, so I'm wondering if I've got something screwy going on here.

I hear ya on re-reading the old project919 thread, but I can't seem to find any forums anymore on the site, and yes, I'm using the stock RC clamps for starters until I can aquire something else.

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post #5 of 35 Old 10-17-2006, 12:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigassbertha View Post
Bearings- as I recall, they're basically the same between the 00-01 rc and 919. Hopefully neither of you made the mistake of getting post-01 rc parts, as there is no way to make them work.
When you say parts are you referring to the triple clamp or bearings and other parts as well? I couldn't find a complete front end so I only have the fork legs ('01 I believe) and brake calipers so far (and a 954 wheel w/RC guts).
The reason mine is taking so long is that I'm still saving $$$ for the Style & Performance upper and lower clamp. http://www.styleandperformance.it/st...Hor900nera.jpg
It's extremely pricey so it'll be a while yet (if you know of a cheaper alternative please let me know!), but they said everything including the 919 ignition, gauges and headlight bracket will bolt right on. They made the clamps specifically to put a USD fork onto a 919.

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post #6 of 35 Old 10-17-2006, 02:03 PM
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mdtoney, Harris might be able to make you something for cheaper:

http://www.ema-usa.com/bow/ema919.shtml

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post #7 of 35 Old 10-17-2006, 02:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tpirman View Post
mdtoney, Harris might be able to make you something for cheaper:

http://www.ema-usa.com/bow/ema919.shtml
That was one of the first custom 919s I saw that made me want to buy a 919 and do a project like that. That bike is amazing!
Unfortunately, I've heard that the Harris triples are even MORE expensive than Style & Performance... about $1100-$1200! The guy at S&P e-mailed me a price in Euros that converted to $966 USD (delivery included) - which is still insanely expensive!
I've talked with Bill at Full Throttle Inc. and he can make a set for about $600 upper and lower, but he wasn't sure about the mounts for the 919 ignition, gauges or the headlight assembly. The price is much better but I'd want to be able to bolt everything together and go. I imagine if the 919 clamps were mailed to him he could re-create the mounting points. I'll give him another call in a few months when I get the $$$ together.

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post #8 of 35 Old 10-17-2006, 03:11 PM Thread Starter
 
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Ignition bolts- I don't quite recall what the heads looked like, but if I remember correctly I pounded something (maybe a star bit) into the head to get them out. Next option was grinding. Grinding a slot into them with a dremel might get them out with a screwdriver for all I know.
Yeah, either of those methods should work. Thanks!

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Originally Posted by bigassbertha View Post
Stem- I've done a lot of thinking on this in the past, and I don't know what, if anything, I got out of pressing the steering stem out. Seems to me the bearings would have been in the same place. And yes, if there is anything to be gained from it, it's a pain in the ass to press out. I heated the clamp before pressing and still managed to tweak the lower clamp just enough that getting the axle to slide in isn't quite perfect.
First, I am using an SP1 stem/triple. I also have an SP2 to compare, so am aware of the differences...unless there's different SP1 stem/triples out there that I wasn't aware of. Anyway, I think pressing the stem out will definitely help. As it fits now with the RC bearings, only the top section of threads are exposed over the race plus maybe a 1/16th of the shoulder. I don't have the stem in front of me, but if my memory serves me correctly, that tells me I need to get close to half an inch up before I even see the bearing nut threads.

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Originally Posted by bigassbertha View Post
Bearings- as I recall, they're basically the same between the 00-01 rc and 919. Hopefully neither of you made the mistake of getting post-01 rc parts, as there is no way to make them work.
I tried puting the 919 bottom bearing on the stem, but it stopped short of the race in the bottom tapered section just before the race, and the RC bearing seemed to fit up better. I didn't try pushing it on though. I remember looking the bearings up in the parts book, and yes, I beleive they even had the same part numbers, but these were obviously different, so I don't know what the hell's going on there.

Quote:
Originally Posted by bigassbertha View Post
I'd say best bet is to grind on the top clamp, grind off the threadless flange on the upper stem nut, etc, to gain enough room for threads. I could have used a few more threads myself, but the bike hasn't broken in half yet!.
I agree here, but before I worry about the top clamp, I need to get the bearing lock threads exposed, so I guess my only option for that is to push the stem out? Maybe I'll try forcing the 919 bearing, and see if I gain anything that way.

Thanks for the help bigassbertha!

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post #9 of 35 Old 10-17-2006, 03:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NoPoHoNet View Post
First, I am using an SP1 stem/triple. I also have an SP2 to compare, so am aware of the differences...unless there's different SP1 stem/triples out there that I wasn't aware of.
What is the difference between SP1 / SP2? Is it the stem size?

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Originally Posted by NoPoHoNet View Post
I tried puting the 919 bottom bearing on the stem, but it stopped short of the race in the bottom tapered section just before the race, and the RC bearing seemed to fit up better. I didn't try pushing it on though. I remember looking the bearings up in the parts book, and yes, I beleive they even had the same part numbers, but these were obviously different, so I don't know what the hell's going on there.
Is the lower bearing pressed onto the stem?

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post #10 of 35 Old 10-17-2006, 04:18 PM Thread Starter
 
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What is the difference between SP1 / SP2? Is it the stem size?
Yeah, the stem is quite a bit fatter. I think the stem height and bottom bearing is really close to the same though. I might throw the SP2 in the tube just to see what's up tonight.

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Is the lower bearing pressed onto the stem?
No, the bearing isn't pressed on, but the race is. I was just thinking of forcing the bearing keeper down a bit more to see if it'll work. The keeper is some sort of rubber/plastic material that is flexible, so we'll see.

I only got a few hours of sleep last night, so hopefully no mistakes tonight!

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post #11 of 35 Old 10-17-2006, 08:11 PM
 
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SP2 isn't even close to working, no clearance for bearings between the stem and the inside of the steering tubes.

I don't recall having ANY issues, at all, with stem bearings. It's been a long while, can't recall details. Hopefully you got new bearings anyway? Mine are RC bearings, I'm fairly certain, and fit in and on the stem just fine.

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post #12 of 35 Old 10-18-2006, 06:56 AM
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nopoho !!! your screen name gives me the heebie-jeebies !! lol
you were the last one member of the project site b4 the 'incident'

old project info can be found here: http://forums.project919.com, the main portal site is being reconstructed using different s/w

the 919 stem is press fit, i thought the sp1 was threaded

u DON'T have enough threads to make it work w/o some fabbing...

Harris IS more money than the S&P's

yes, it's rc51 bearings

if bill said $600, that's a better price than i got ...but i asked about making everything bolt on (ign/lamp etc.) and he does need a donor front end

the lamp mount to the H bracket which only requires 4 holes, 2 in the bottom of the upper triple and 2 on the top of the lower triple...you can drill them yourself...not a big deal

the ignition is a bit of a bitch and the gauge cluster, you're on your own to figure somethin out

last thing, if i had 5 stems turned to help smooth out this conversion, is that something you or anyone else might be interested in?

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post #13 of 35 Old 10-18-2006, 06:56 AM
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oh yeah, and welcome nopoho....check out the thread by OCool...doin the same thing...

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post #14 of 35 Old 10-18-2006, 07:48 AM Thread Starter
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigassbertha View Post
SP2 isn't even close to working, no clearance for bearings between the stem and the inside of the steering tubes.
Yes, you're right about the SP2. The bottom looks close, but all you have to do is look at the top bearing to know wassup.

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Originally Posted by bigassbertha View Post
I don't recall having ANY issues, at all, with stem bearings. It's been a long while, can't recall details. Hopefully you got new bearings anyway? Mine are RC bearings, I'm fairly certain, and fit in and on the stem just fine.
Unless I have a different triple that looks exactly like an RC triple, the 919 bottom bearing won't work, but the top will. I think that was the part number match that I saw. Anyway, yeah, the RC bearings fit just fine, but I was just trying to come up with anything to get some more stem. Hmmm...maybe Will Ferell can do a follow up skit to more cowbell? More stem? I know

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post #15 of 35 Old 10-18-2006, 09:07 AM Thread Starter
 
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Quote:
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old project info can be found here: http://forums.project919.com, the main portal site is being reconstructed using different s/w
Thanks!

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the 919 stem is press fit, i thought the sp1 was threaded
This would explain why a rosebud torch and a 20 ton press wouldn't budge the stem out last night, but doesn't explain why bigassbertha didn't mention this yesterday, and that he had a similar pain in the ass experience attempting to "press" the stem out. Jeez dude, I hope I didn't ruin the damn triple. It did move enough to loosen the dust cover ever so slightly...it's not bent, but I may have ruined the threads inside...all I can say is F**K!

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u DON'T have enough threads to make it work w/o some fabbing...
I'm assuming you're talking about the top threads now. Yes, as long as I can get the stem up out of the bottom triple enough, I think I can figure something out. It just seems like I need about 3/8ths of an inch for the race to sit on the machined surface of the stem rather than floating around the threads. If I get the stem out this far, then I was going to drill and set screw through the bottom triple. If the race gets down on the machined portion of the stem, then I should have enough thread to lock down the bearings. Have you guys been just letting the race kinda float around the threaded portion?

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if bill said $600, that's a better price than i got ...but i asked about making everything bolt on (ign/lamp etc.) and he does need a donor front end.
I never thought I would have to resort to this, but after last nights attempt, I am now considering this alternative. My buddy WAS going to take my triple over to another shop today with a 30 or 50 ton press to give that a try first. Obviously that isn't going to happen now, so I'll try spinning that sucker out tonight. If that doesn't work, then this may be the route I'll take. So he (bill) would the RC forks and the 919 triple?

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the lamp mount to the H bracket which only requires 4 holes, 2 in the bottom of the upper triple and 2 on the top of the lower triple...you can drill them yourself...not a big deal.
Yeah, seems like it shouldn't be...this is exactly what I was thinking of doing...just hadn't got there yet.

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the ignition is a bit of a bitch and the gauge cluster, you're on your own to figure somethin out.
Bitch to get off? Or bitch to mount? If the bolt holes line up in the same place on the triple, then it should work fine by hogging out the hole a little more, but again...haven't got there yet. Yeah, the guage cluster looks a bit tricky...I have to get to that phase of the project first though. What about zip ties and duct tape?

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last thing, if i had 5 stems turned to help smooth out this conversion, is that something you or anyone else might be interested in?
I was thinking of posting this same question. If I haven't damaged my lower triple, and the price is right, then yes. In conversations with machinist buddies though, it seemed like it would be expensive, but no prices were actually discussed.

Thanks RD for the input, and sorry about the heebies...just try not to think about it.

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post #16 of 35 Old 10-18-2006, 11:01 AM
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Thanks RatDog, bigassbertha, & NoPoHoNet for all the continuing great info on this project - more pieces of the puzzle continue to fall into place...

Just to be sure I have my facts correct...
The SP1 stem diameter is correct but approx. 1/4" - 3/8" too short.
The lower stem bearing should be SP1, and the upper bearing can be either SP1 or 919.

RatDog - the price quote from Bill was just for standard clamps - no machining for the accessory mounts. I'm interested to know how much more it would be to have the H-clamp holes and the ignition & gauge cluster mounts included. Bill's work looks high quality and it may be cheaper than going through S&P (not to mention quicker since he's not overseas). And thanks for the offer on the stems! That seems to be the biggest obstacle for many. A number of people seem interested in this project but don't have the facilities at their disposal to do machining or pressing, if they could just buy the 'correct' stem for this project, everything would be so much easier. Do you have a rough idea what something like that might cost?

NoPoHoNet - Bill will know the diameter for the RC legs (50mm/54mm if I remember correctly) - he would just need the 919 triples to reverse engineer the new parts.

Thanks again to all for their excellent input!

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post #17 of 35 Old 10-18-2006, 11:51 AM
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i think bill needs;

> a 919 front end
> a 929/954/sp1 triple w/ sp1/2 legs
> gauge cluster, ignition, bucket and bracket

he will have to modify his 929/954/sp1 fighter upper triple for the ignition
he will fab a lower
he will fab a stem

the stem is costly...i re-run my emachine mockup on pricing (i remember my air intake replacement ran anywhere from $90-$150 cost per unit and the stem was more due to material, tolerances etc.)

i have a master machinist available but no equipment (he's retired), no connections at local shop and retail pricing sucks

i throw money in a bucket (pocket change) and save up some ebay bucks and when it adds up to somethin, i buy a part on the list. Over the last couple years i accumulated enough stuff to attempt the project w/ spares only to decide i wanted a custom upper/lower and rc-51 legs...finally got the legs, just savin up for either bill or the s&p's ($480 in the kitty so far )

still keepin an eye out for the ultimate set of rims (used marchesini's or pvm's or somethin)...takin your time reduces costs

i'll post up the $$ on the stem

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post #18 of 35 Old 10-18-2006, 12:02 PM
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ok, found an early mockup of the intake...stem file is around here somewhere


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post #19 of 35 Old 10-18-2006, 12:13 PM
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i'm at $65 per w/ no threading yet and that's a QTY of 10

i need to spend about 1-2 hours updating the drawing to get a very good estimate

i'll also need to verify the material w/ an expert

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post #20 of 35 Old 10-18-2006, 12:45 PM
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Quote:
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still keepin an eye out for the ultimate set of rims (used marchesini's or pvm's or somethin)...takin your time reduces costs
I'm sure you've already seen the Carpimoto B-ONE:
http://www.carpimoto.it/content/prod...r_Sprocket.htm

FRONT
- Braking one-piece nine spoke wheel made of aluminum complete with floating wave disks

REAR
- Braking one-piece nine spoke wheel aluminum made, complete with wave disk, rubber bushing and aluminum sprocket 7075T6

The price in Euros converts to just over $1225 USD - which seems quite affordable for 2 forged wheels, 3 wave rotors, and an aluminum sprocket.

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post #21 of 35 Old 10-18-2006, 12:52 PM Thread Starter
 
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Just to be sure I have my facts correct...
The SP1 stem diameter is correct but approx. 1/4" - 3/8" too short.
The lower stem bearing should be SP1, and the upper bearing can be either SP1 or 919.
Yeah, the SP1 dia. is correct, and the length to me is less a function of how many threads you can get to make contact, and is more a function of how much of the top race you want to be in contact with the machined portion of the stem just below the bearing threads per oem design. Hell, you could just yard the bearing lock nut and use the top triple plate as the bearing lock, but that sounds kinda sketch to me. The 3/8" is about how much shorter the SP1 stem is than the 919 (eyeballed), so depending on how much of the race you feel comfortable about in contact with that machined surface, you can go less than that. I just can't see how you'd get any contact with only 1/4" push. You may have the threads to lock everything down, but then the race will be floating around the threads. I was just going to go in 1/4 to 1/8 inch increments on the press till I felt comfortable. It was decided in the shop last night that we should be able to go 1/2 to 3/8 without issue, but without FEA data (which I don't even want to think about) on the dynamic stresses experienced there, we're just going off our combined on/off road racing, machinist, and engineering experience. Hope I don't find out the correct answer via the face plant method cause ummm that would suck.

Just so you know, I re-read the project919 thread where bigassbertha posted up "Crap I had to modify for the 00-01 rc51 front end...PRESSED the steering stem out from the lower triple ~1/4"". So I guess the verdict is still out on whether or not the stem is threaded in or pressed fit unless RadDog can shed some light on it. I couldn't find anything else talking about this on that thread. Do you think the stem was cast with the triple?

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post #22 of 35 Old 10-18-2006, 01:06 PM Thread Starter
 
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Quote:
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i'm at $65 per w/ no threading yet and that's a QTY of 10

i need to spend about 1-2 hours updating the drawing to get a very good estimate

i'll also need to verify the material w/ an expert
I've got my machinist buddy looking in to this right now as well. He's trying to determine correct material too. 65 bucks sounds raaaad! Paying for qty 10 up front...gaaaay! Guess we'll have to wait and see what demand will be.

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post #23 of 35 Old 10-18-2006, 01:22 PM
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i was checking;

steel carbon 1055
steel carbon 1018
steel carbon 6150 ($150+ a piece at 10)

i hear ya about qty but one-off prices are nuts !!

stems are all press fit then? that's cool..or not cause i don't know how to get them out without heat or trashin the lowers...i trashed a set of lowers

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post #24 of 35 Old 10-18-2006, 01:35 PM
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65 bucks sounds raaaad! Paying for qty 10 up front...gaaaay! Guess we'll have to wait and see what demand will be.
I agree that $65 (plus threading) is very fair, but having to commit to 10....
NoPoHoNet (and others) would probably agree that looking back, instead of spending night after night trying to figure out the correct measurements, worrying about pressing, and machining, etc. if someone said "I can save you all that hassle and offer you the correct part, and it's a direct swap - it will cost you $65 (or whatever the final cost is)" most people would gladly save the time and headaches and pay the cost for a part that works 'right out of the box'. Other who are interested in the project, but scared of all the fab work and guess work, would also be more eager if the 'correct' part was readily available and reasonably priced.
I still have a few more months of saving $$ before I commit to anything else, but if I don't go with the custom clamps, this stem will definitely be the way to go.

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post #25 of 35 Old 10-18-2006, 01:39 PM
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steel carbon 1055
steel carbon 1018
steel carbon 6150 ($150+ a piece at 10)
Don't know anything about steel quality - are all the listed grades good enough? are the 1055 or 1018 cheaper or more expensive? $150 still isn't 'terrible' considering the headaches it will save - but that's still for qty. of 10...

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post #26 of 35 Old 10-18-2006, 01:43 PM Thread Starter
 
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Do you think any of those steels will work?

I don't know for sure about the press fit...yet, but since bigassbertha seems to be the only one who's posted up their experience with this conversion, I have to assume yes. However, after maxing out the press at almost 20 tons of force and a whole lot o heat, and yielding only 1/64th to 1/32nd out of the clamp, I don't know...maybe there are threads in there. Now that I know you're not quite sure either, I may just have to try that bigger press.

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post #27 of 35 Old 10-18-2006, 02:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NoPoHoNet View Post
Do you think any of those steels will work?

I don't know for sure about the press fit...yet, but since bigassbertha seems to be the only one who's posted up their experience with this conversion, I have to assume yes. However, after maxing out the press at almost 20 tons of force and a whole lot o heat, and yielding only 1/64th to 1/32nd out of the clamp, I don't know...maybe there are threads in there. Now that I know you're not quite sure either, I may just have to try that bigger press.
not sure, went off a list of recommended applications for the various material types available...i can pick any damn thing, make 'em titanium if i want (not)

1015 - Auto parts, case hardened for camshafts

1018 - Shafts, spindles, pins, rods, sprocket assemblies

6150 - Heavily stressed machinery parts including shafts, gears, pinions and also in hand tool components

4340 - Aircraft landing gear, power transmission gears and shafts and other structural parts


if it can handle aircraft landing gear, i feel pretty safe using it

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post #28 of 35 Old 10-18-2006, 02:01 PM
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dave from ema-usa didn't go through this because he had a custom setup from harris (it was originally for an nsr i think)

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post #29 of 35 Old 10-18-2006, 02:20 PM Thread Starter
 
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NoPoHoNet (and others) would probably agree that looking back, instead of spending night after night trying to figure out the correct measurements, worrying about pressing, and machining, etc. if someone said "I can save you all that hassle and offer you the correct part, and it's a direct swap - it will cost you $65 (or whatever the final cost is)" most people would gladly save the time and headaches and pay the cost for a part that works 'right out of the box'. Other who are interested in the project, but scared of all the fab work and guess work, would also be more eager if the 'correct' part was readily available and reasonably priced.
I still have a few more months of saving $$ before I commit to anything else, but if I don't go with the custom clamps, this stem will definitely be the way to go.
Totally, but the question still remains as to what is required to separate the stem from the lower in order to swap out. Also, the process of pressing a new stem in will likely suck worse than pushing it out.

I've got to put my bike back togther tonight to free up space in the shop its at, which really sucks, but at least I know what needs to be done now. Just have to figure out how.

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post #30 of 35 Old 10-18-2006, 02:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NoPoHoNet View Post
Do you think any of those steels will work?

I don't know for sure about the press fit...yet, but since bigassbertha seems to be the only one who's posted up their experience with this conversion, I have to assume yes. However, after maxing out the press at almost 20 tons of force and a whole lot o heat, and yielding only 1/64th to 1/32nd out of the clamp, I don't know...maybe there are threads in there. Now that I know you're not quite sure either, I may just have to try that bigger press.
20 tons seems like A LOT of force to get almost zero results! Have you checked a fiche or RC shop manual to see if they show threads?

There's a separate RC51 section on http://www.fireblades.org/forums/rc-51 I'll look around and see if I can find anything - if not, I'll post the question up and see what kind of responses I get.

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post #31 of 35 Old 10-18-2006, 03:28 PM Thread Starter
 
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20 tons seems like A LOT of force to get almost zero results! Have you checked a fiche or RC shop manual to see if they show threads?
No shat! This thing easily breaks cylinder sleeves all day long, so something definitely seems wrong. I checked the bikebandit fiche awhile back, and it doesn't indicate one way or another. The lower clamp comes assembled with the stem. No RC manual here.

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There's a separate RC51 section on http://www.fireblades.org/forums/rc-51 I'll look around and see if I can find anything - if not, I'll post the question up and see what kind of responses I get.
Cool! We'll get to the bottom of this one way or another.

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post #32 of 35 Old 10-18-2006, 07:48 PM
 
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Mine pressed out, so if stock is threaded then I must have an aftermarket set?! Where's the smiley scratching its head when you need it?

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post #33 of 35 Old 10-19-2006, 08:05 AM Thread Starter
 
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Mine pressed out, so if stock is threaded then I must have an aftermarket set?! Where's the smiley scratching its head when you need it?
Yeah, the more we looked at the counter bore last night, we think it's pressed in as well. If this thing were threaded, you would have indication of that visually on the bottom of the lower clamp.

What did you use to press yours out with? Please don't say a socket and a hammer.

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post #34 of 35 Old 10-19-2006, 10:03 AM
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I don't want to derail this thread, so this will just be a quick semi-related question, then back on topic...

For those that have done or are planning on doing this project: which front fender did/will you use? I'm looking for something small(ish). The RC fender has way too much plastic for me. Are others a direct fit? The '06 CBR1000RR fender has a bit less plastic than previous years. It doesn't even have to be a Honda fender, most of the new liter bikes have decent looking fenders. The fender on the S&P project http://www.styleandperformance.it/st...Hor900nera.jpg is off a Ducati 916 and looks decent. If I have to fab up something to make it fit the RC forks, that's fine, as long as it looks good. Just wondering what others have done or are planning to do.

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post #35 of 35 Old 10-19-2006, 10:59 AM Thread Starter
 
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Although I think the RC fender is rockin some heavy plastic as well, I am planning on running it as is initially (with the exception of a new flat black rattle can job). I just want to get it on the bike first, then re-evaluate. If it's staring back at me with rainbows and unicorns, I will either cut it down or search for another as you are.

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