A number of people have asked for them over time.
I just discovered the pdf file somehow got screwed up and split the second page in two.
If anyone wants the repaired template pdf file, just say the word. Send a PM with an e mail address that will accept attachments.
Someone asked about tools and tricks.
Do the layout work on the back of the grip pad.
I did my long line cutting with Wiss MPC-3 general purpose shears.
I did my tight radius cutting with Wiss M7 left hand turn sheet metal shears.
If I was a left handed cutter, I would have used a M6.
I did my edge chamfering with a right angled grinder with a hard disc on it.
(the typical rigid fibre type that comes standard fitted with such grinders)
Clean the tank with Windex, and make sure all wax etc is gone so the grip pad can have max stick to the paint.
I used painters tape on the tank for the second side re the top grip.
Used the first side as a datum, then mirrored the forward most point and ran the tape edge to there. This is not really necessary, but it helps, especially if you find yourself moving the pad around to get the perfect spot. At least a bit of tape at one point or two will give you additional reference points to compare to as you do any slight relocations in an effort to find that perfect spot.
The upper grip pad is on the ragged edge of what can be made to fit and not lift off at the top edge due to tank curvature. Take your time aligning before touching, but the Snake Skin can easily be pulled off and re-contacted until you have it exactly where you want it.
I used a heat gun to set the adhesive.
(It was too cold when I did it)
Don't do this in your garage with the door closed !
The gasoline starts cooking off light ends and the tank vents and it smells and is a safety hazard.
Better is a hot day in the sun, but if you don't have that, a heat gun works, and much better than a hair drier.
(My heat gun is a red hot wire coil forced hot air type. It is ancient, but I assume they still exist)