Lemon Issues with Headlight Stater kill... - Wrist Twisters
 
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post #1 of 20 Old 06-13-2007, 08:13 AM Thread Starter
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Lemon Issues with Headlight Stater kill...

So has any one else had repeated issues the the headlight kill when you hit the starter? First the wire broke off in there and now apparrently the the contacts are either too dirty or worn, the bike only has 13k on it and most of that is highway.

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post #2 of 20 Old 06-13-2007, 08:22 AM
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No but one of my horn wires was not soldered correctly inside the rubber boot and has never worked. Also, one of my side covers has broken around the screw that holds it on, like it was tightened too tight from the factory. I didn't catch it before the warrantee was up in '05.

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post #3 of 20 Old 06-13-2007, 10:20 AM
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Waaaa Waaaaaaa Waaaaaaaaa!!!!!!

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post #4 of 20 Old 06-13-2007, 10:33 AM
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Waaaa Waaaaaaa Waaaaaaaaa!!!!!!


I've got double your mileage on my 03 Jeef and it's a mix of highway, backroad, and in town mileage. My only problems have been the ones I've created.

2002 919 40,000 miles
"racing is life...everything else is just waiting"
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post #5 of 20 Old 06-13-2007, 12:51 PM
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My 01 CBR929 has started doing the same thing. 35,000 miles.

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post #6 of 20 Old 06-13-2007, 01:30 PM
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Gonna be working on a 1986 VFR 750 interceptor later today that is doing same thing. Damn Hondas.. what crap!

My advice.. to avoid this and other electrical issues always park in a garage and never get it wet.

- Rev. CYCHO -

tires.... it's what's for dinner!
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post #7 of 20 Old 06-13-2007, 02:34 PM
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My Chevy truck is lemonish too... 180,000 miles and it needs a starter already!

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post #8 of 20 Old 06-13-2007, 02:44 PM
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These new Honda's are a piece of crap. Best advise is to trade it in on one of these.

Spoiler:

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post #9 of 20 Old 06-13-2007, 02:54 PM
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These new Honda's are a piece of crap. Best advise is to trade it in on one of these.

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Sweet! What the heck is it? Besides a chick magnet of course.

"Gentlemen. You can't fight in here. This is the War Room." - President Merkin Muffley
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post #10 of 20 Old 06-13-2007, 08:22 PM
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Damn, Mike A Hodaka! I had 125 Combat Wombat. The thing fouled plugs faster than you could use up a tank of gas.

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post #11 of 20 Old 06-13-2007, 09:09 PM Thread Starter
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Waaaa Waaaaaaa Waaaaaaaaa!!!!!!
Honestly, I don't mind working on the bike and I know stuff is bound to break... but when its one part a bunch of differnt faults it gets annoying.

It did give me some thing to do on my day off, and btw it wasn't that the contacts were dirty or worn, more so that aparently there is a clip that holds the top cover down, where the contacts solder too, that broke off.

Broke out the trusty soldering iron and a zip tie to "weld" the pieces together for now till I can find the Right part.

I get to look forward to cleaning and polishing tommorrow and then cruising out to a local bike night at Porkies, haha good times. I think I also found the only curvy road in Fla and its on the way there!

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post #12 of 20 Old 06-13-2007, 09:23 PM
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Quote:
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I get to look forward to cleaning and polishing tommorrow and then cruising out to a local bike night at Porkies, haha good times.
Attachment 3263Attachment 3264

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post #13 of 20 Old 06-13-2007, 10:57 PM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeef View Post
So has any one else had repeated issues the the headlight kill when you hit the starter? First the wire broke off in there and now apparrently the the contacts are either too dirty or worn, the bike only has 13k on it and most of that is highway.
How about some helpful advice?

I've disassembled the assembly and the contacts are very small. Carefully take it apart and clean all four contacts. The solder joints are small and the way it is set up I'm not surprised they are prone to failure.

I replaced the whole thing with a real aluminum throttle housing and start/kill switch from a CBR1000RR. Both actually clamp to the bars tightly without using a locating pin. The whole set up cost $22 more then the replacement assembly.

The CBR1000RR switch seems to have better strain relief for the wires. Probably the same tiny contacts inside though.

For about $12 or less in parts you could pitch the whole thing and use a Normally Open kill switch, probably gank one from a old Combat Wombat, and use a couple SPDT relays or a DPDT relay to do the same job. Probably have room to stash them in the factory headlight.

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post #14 of 20 Old 06-14-2007, 12:04 AM Thread Starter
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sounds good, I'll have to look around for the rr switch and see what I can find

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post #15 of 20 Old 06-15-2007, 12:00 PM
 
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Quote:
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sounds good, I'll have to look around for the rr switch and see what I can find
Check Here

You need parts 3, 8, and 9 for the whole deal. Your 919 throttle grip will work fine. I removed the pins from the power plugs because they are different housings and different pins. I soldered and used heat shrink to change over to the 919 pins. The wire colors are the same so it's straight forward. You can slip them back through the loom and re-insert them in the 919 housing. Easier than it sounds and it's nice and clean when you're done.

You can also replace the 919 throttle/switch assembly with part 6 here. I'd rather have it modular with a separate throttle. Just my

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post #16 of 20 Old 06-15-2007, 02:00 PM
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This looks helpful on the subject.
As far as assembly & such.

http://cbrworld.net/forums/thread/270085.aspx

This one has part #'s
I don't know about the cables though. Wrong bike.
http://www.peterverdonedesigns.com/600RRHRCthrottle.htm

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post #17 of 20 Old 06-15-2007, 02:31 PM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xrmikey View Post
This looks helpful on the subject.
As far as assembly & such.

http://cbrworld.net/forums/thread/270085.aspx

This one has part #'s
I don't know about the cables though. Wrong bike.
http://www.peterverdonedesigns.com/600RRHRCthrottle.htm
It would have nice if Honda had used the same plug and pins for both applications, seems to make good economic sense too, but even the pins are different on the CBR switch so you can't just push them out and insert them in the 919 plug.

The standard CBR throttle housing is a simple deal using the stock cables.

I'd really like a quicker turn throttle myself, but the HRC part is around $150, I think the Yoyodyne is more, and then there's the cable issue. I need to wait for my Rizoma grips to wear out too.

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post #18 of 20 Old 06-15-2007, 02:42 PM
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I personally haven't had any problems with the switch assembly.
If I do I'm going to convert to The quick throttle.
Remove the switch assembly & just use a start button.
I never use the kill switch, I just turn the key.
I will use the factory plugs & pins,Just cut & solder.
I will use either the RC51 button or some waterproof intermittent push button.
I have even thought about making the horn button my start button. To help clean things up a little.

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post #19 of 20 Old 06-15-2007, 04:23 PM Thread Starter
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Yeah, I was actually already out at a local dealer yesterday checking out the parts. I think I'm going to go that route. I'm pretty handy with my soldering iron too, so the switch over shouldn't be bad.

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post #20 of 20 Old 06-16-2007, 01:37 AM
 
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Quote:
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Yeah, I was actually already out at a local dealer yesterday checking out the parts. I think I'm going to go that route. I'm pretty handy with my soldering iron too, so the switch over shouldn't be bad.
One last tidbit on my experience. The CBR parts both have a locating pin which I have doubts will make up the factory holes. The throttle might but I think the angle will probably be wrong. The brake lever will clear the cable housing if you mount it so they straddle the lever. It's pretty tight though. I didn't want to go that route and I have them exiting downward.

Anyhow the reason I switched was because followed the instruction on LDH's site and ground the pins off the switch/throttle when I swapped out to Renthal Ultra Low bars. I couldn't find a decent solution to the assembly rotating (I know others have) so I sought out a throttle that would actually clamp to the bars and in the interest of future proofing I wanted a separate throttle housing. I ground the pins off both of the CBR pieces and I made two passes with a large cross cut flat file on the "female" half of the throttle housing and did the same with some sand paper on a flat block for the switch. Both clamp on vise-tight. BTW, neither assembly comes with machine screws. I used stainless button head hex hardware from the local ACE. So plan on a couple extra bucks and a trip to the hardware store or order them when you order the other items. The sizes are listed on the fiche. The switch uses two different lengths which I could not match perfectly, but came close enough without having buy longer and cut them down.

PM me if you want pics.

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