is it ready to rip - Wrist Twisters
 
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post #1 of 24 Old 04-15-2009, 01:03 PM Thread Starter
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is it ready to rip

235 miles on 07...think its ok milage wise to let it rip through a few gears at redline..or wait a few hundred miles more

dont need a bike to ride the fast lane
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post #2 of 24 Old 04-15-2009, 03:24 PM
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I'd at LEAST wait till your first oil change. The oil gets beat on really hard till the piston rings set (If I know anything about engines)...

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post #3 of 24 Old 04-15-2009, 03:27 PM
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+1^

30,000 mile 919 survivor. No plans of stopping the abuse any time soon.
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post #4 of 24 Old 04-15-2009, 03:59 PM
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I would wait till 600-700 miles and change oil once before I started "ripping through gears at redline"

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post #5 of 24 Old 04-15-2009, 04:04 PM
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I'll be the first to say... Run it now like you plan on running it later! This is a time honored discussion as old as time itself, so we don't need to continue it with stats, graphs or reasoning on one opinion.

This is just my opinion and has always worked out in my favor!

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post #6 of 24 Old 04-15-2009, 04:23 PM
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i had mine bouncing off the rev limiter at least 5 times before i had made 1/2 mile from the dealership...

run the living sh111t out of it...

you will thank yourself later... break it in like you ride it...



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post #7 of 24 Old 04-15-2009, 04:33 PM
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follow these and you will be good to go dude!!

When I break-in a bike I try to follow a very serious order of operations & so far I have had very good success with it. My last 3 new bikes have always dynoed at the upper end of the horsepower scale when compared to the same model bikes on the same dyno.

These are the guidelines I use for all my new bikes:

Lots of heat cycles! run it & let it cool off, run it & let it cool off.

#1 rule is never maintain a steady speed during break-in. Always keep the revs going up & down. Nothing is worse on a new bike than putting miles on it at a steady rpm especially on the interstate.

For the 1st 150 miles I take it real easy never exceeding 75% of the redline(i.e if redline is 10,000 then I would not go over 7500) I take extra special care to listen for as well as feel any anomalies in the valvetrain and driveline. I am also very smooth on the throttle no jerky movements or ham fisted off & ons & I never hold the throttle at the higher rpms if I go to 7500rpm I immediately shift & bring the rpms back down.

From 150 to 250 miles I try to liven up the process by introducing brief spurts up to 90% of the redline, but once again I never stay there immediately bring the revs back down & maybe once or twice run it to the redzone & back down but don't hit the hard limiter.

250 to 600 miles It's spirited riding, but still making sure to keep the rpms fluctuating & I routinely take it up to close to redline without hitting the hard limiter.

600 miles I change the oil & inspect it thoroughly, hell I even cut open my oil filters & look LOL

600-1200 miles normal riding but still with caution & smoothness in my actions & I still try to vary my rpms on the highway even though by now that's damn near impossible cause I'm usually commuting to different rides.

After 1200 miles I flog it, wheelies & top end bursts, but I still don't hold it wide open for any real duration of time until around 1500-1700 miles.

Many RC51 Owners have commented that they have followed these instructions & their personal results were right along the results I have reported in that their bikes also produced dyno charts that were at the upper end of the scale for power output of similarly or identically equipped machines. There is no guarantee that my way works nor any scientific tests to prove it, but commonsense & the dyno results should go a long way in helping you to decide what is the best way to break your bike in properly.

A couple other notes:

Yes there are professional tuners out there that recommend that you flog the hell out of the bike right from the start to instantly seat the rings etc & yes I will admit that those bikes have in many cases produced a little more peak horsepower initially, but what everyone fails to realize is that those professional race tuners are going to end up rebuilding that motor at least once if not twice a season (sometimes more often than that) & they don't care if engine wear is accelerated or not. Most of us want a reliable good performing motor & my break-in procedures will give you that. I've been doing this for many years & living in Memphis have seen many bikes bought in the afternoon & being dragraced that evening & they always end up smoking within about 1500 miles.

The aviation industry has without a doubt the most explicit & detailed break-in procedures for internal combustion motors. The reason for this is that they MUST be reliable as an engine failure in the air has the potential to be alot more dangerous than an engine failure on the ground. Their engine break-in regimens consist of many of the exact same key elements that mine do. Heat cycles, no initial steady rpms & ever increasing rpm peaks.

One final note is that even though the engine may be broke in properly many times the transmission still takes longer. It is not uncommon for a motorcycle transmission to need 1800-2000 miles to get fully broke-in & during that time is susceptible to accelerated wear just as the motors are. You may even notice that the more miles you put on your bike the better the transmission starts to work. During break-in keep your shifts solid & smooth, use the clutch for both upshifts/downshifts & just generally be aware that all new metal parts need time to bed in properly.




you can thank LordDuckHunter for the info.


Bill





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post #8 of 24 Old 04-15-2009, 05:09 PM
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I'm sure many here have already seen this,but if you haven't it's a good read.

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm


What's The Best Way To Break-In A New Engine ??
The Short Answer: Run it Hard !


.
" There are a lot of myths about engines...
easy break-in is one of the biggest "

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post #9 of 24 Old 04-15-2009, 05:17 PM
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i agree with red, i was not in a hurry to break my motor, didnt ride like a sally but no where near as hard as i do now

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post #10 of 24 Old 04-15-2009, 05:27 PM
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Hah, I was reading that and thinking you were someone's alter ego until I read the last line.

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post #11 of 24 Old 04-15-2009, 05:48 PM
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There won't be agreement on this topic. I tend to ride them hard after the 100 mile mark. Then, bounce it off the limiter as soon as it hits 1000. And, ride it somewhere in between during that time. My ZRX was the best they had dynoed and my ZX10 is 170 RWHP with a slip-on. So, although not much evidence, it is some.

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post #12 of 24 Old 04-16-2009, 08:31 AM
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I find it interesting that there are all these theories about engine break-in. I just read the mototuneusa article, the guy that wrote it looks to be about 30yrs. old. so how long have those 300 engines he's tested lasted? Manufacturers spends millions of dollars in R&D and yet we want to question their advice. I suppose that if you change bikes every couple of years you can run the hell out of it and let the next guy worry about it.

According to my dyno chart the optimum operating range for the 919 is between 7000 and 8800 rpms. If you are riding on the street and pushing the redline you will soon be an unfortunate statistic. At 90 mph you're covering about 130 ft. per second. That translates into a crash if you encounter an unavoidable obstacle at anything less than 300 ft in front of you.

Just food for thought.

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post #13 of 24 Old 04-16-2009, 08:40 AM
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scarey stats there S10, but so true, reckon its the chance we all take starting up huh





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post #14 of 24 Old 04-16-2009, 08:45 AM
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Hmmmmm guess I go about it all wrong.....I put the bike on a stand, shift it into first while running and pin it......let it bounce of the rev limiter for about 10 minutes or until puffs of smoke start coming out of the tail pipes. Should be good to go after that.


























I'm not bike expert, I just slept at a Motel 6.




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post #15 of 24 Old 04-16-2009, 09:03 AM
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that is good food for thought. also, i read the mototune article. anybody really heard of this guy? anybody can get on their soap box and preach... it seemed to me like there was a lot of propaganda type stuff, and a zillion things flashing; the article made my eyes hurt and kind of annoyed me.

30,000 mile 919 survivor. No plans of stopping the abuse any time soon.
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post #16 of 24 Old 04-16-2009, 09:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by s10hornet View Post
I find it interesting that there are all these theories about engine break-in. I just read the mototuneusa article, the guy that wrote it looks to be about 30yrs. old. so how long have those 300 engines he's tested lasted? Manufacturers spends millions of dollars in R&D and yet we want to question their advice. I suppose that if you change bikes every couple of years you can run the hell out of it and let the next guy worry about it.

According to my dyno chart the optimum operating range for the 919 is between 7000 and 8800 rpms. If you are riding on the street and pushing the redline you will soon be an unfortunate statistic. At 90 mph you're covering about 130 ft. per second. That translates into a crash if you encounter an unavoidable obstacle at anything less than 300 ft in front of you.

Just food for thought.
Dam,I hit 120 yesterday but that's the chance you take.

It's like I tell my nephew we all make choices in life.

Now in Vermont had I been pulled over I would have lost my licenses.

But for a few miles it was fun !!

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post #17 of 24 Old 04-16-2009, 09:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scrat View Post
that is good food for thought. also, i read the mototune article. anybody really heard of this guy? anybody can get on their soap box and preach... it seemed to me like there was a lot of propaganda type stuff, and a zillion things flashing; the article made my eyes hurt and kind of annoyed me.
I'll bet half this board has read or herd of motoman,he has a link that takes about three hours to read and much more in depth.
He explains that your new bike has already hit the redline at the factory where it was made long before the dealer got it.
A lot of bikes have a top speed record like Aprilia and their<the factory>is supposed to zero them out after test running them and some slip through that are not zeroed out and they have very high speeds locked in.
Bottom line is the factory wants the bike to break there if it's going to break.Not after you are on it 50 miles from home.

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post #18 of 24 Old 04-16-2009, 09:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by s10hornet View Post
Manufacturers spends millions of dollars in R&D and yet we want to question their advice. .
The manufacturers have been using the EXACT same break-in procedures for about 40 years, while the bikes (metals, oils, etc...) and manufacturing processes have changed greatly. If you don't believe me, find a Honda manual from the 70's and compare it. And, like someone else said, a lot of the bikes (if not all of them) are run to redline prior to leaving the factory.

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post #19 of 24 Old 04-16-2009, 03:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sike View Post
There won't be agreement on this topic. I tend to ride them hard after the 100 mile mark. Then, bounce it off the limiter as soon as it hits 1000. And, ride it somewhere in between during that time. My ZRX was the best they had dynoed and my ZX10 is 170 RWHP with a slip-on. So, although not much evidence, it is some.
sounds similar to my method. There is one thing I can't remember seeing in years of break-in threads on all kinds of forums. It is making sure the engine/trans is FULLY warmed up before any hard running or redlining. The temp gauge only tells you the temp. of the coolant. The oil, crank, bearings, rods, clutch and transmission will slower than the coolant. I wait at least 6 or7 miles after a cold start before any hard running.

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post #20 of 24 Old 04-16-2009, 05:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by s10hornet View Post
I find it interesting that there are all these theories about engine break-in. I just read the mototuneusa article, the guy that wrote it looks to be about 30yrs. old. so how long have those 300 engines he's tested lasted? Manufacturers spends millions of dollars in R&D and yet we want to question their advice. I suppose that if you change bikes every couple of years you can run the hell out of it and let the next guy worry about it.

According to my dyno chart the optimum operating range for the 919 is between 7000 and 8800 rpms. If you are riding on the street and pushing the redline you will soon be an unfortunate statistic. At 90 mph you're covering about 130 ft. per second. That translates into a crash if you encounter an unavoidable obstacle at anything less than 300 ft in front of you.

Just food for thought.
Looks can be deceiving.The number one draft pick in football <a quarterback >
go figure was on TV this morning he looked like a big high school kid.
Shortly he will be a multi millionaire

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post #21 of 24 Old 04-16-2009, 07:19 PM Thread Starter
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well most bikes i owned say 1000 miles break in.. some motors had 2500 ...the 919 from honda says 300 miles... motor from day one felt broken in compared to say the new 06 vmax i had last years.. that was 1000 miles brake in , it felt like it had no balls . breaking it in slow with more miles you could feel the motor getting stronger , it was like night and day the power after break in ....the 919 felt great with zero miles and with 300 miles still feels the same.. hell the idle is still the same rpm, never went up a hair...havent brought it over 7000 rpm yet..im hoping between 7000 and 8500 rpm its a different animal...hoping for the inline hard pull to get the the heart pumping once in a while...not interested in redline gear banging.. just something i have to do once or twice to know what the bike is all about

dont need a bike to ride the fast lane
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post #22 of 24 Old 04-16-2009, 08:09 PM
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I'm with everyone that said break it in like you ride it!!! Balls out!!!






besides I can't see the pieces fly apart from my house oh and it don't matter anyway you'll sale it after a year anyway cause you ride another bike that's better!!

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post #23 of 24 Old 04-16-2009, 08:13 PM
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OK sounds almost unanimous LET HER RIP !!!

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post #24 of 24 Old 04-19-2009, 04:30 PM Thread Starter
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after 300 miles I been riding with the rpm up a little higher and shift points higher..making the motor wind out a bit ... i can see where the trade of is on the low to mid power...compaired to a hotter setup... instead of a hard hitting pull in the top rpm,,its more even through the rpm...not the pull the arms out of the sockets power..at this point in my life the low to mid torque grunt suits me better....to run in the 11,,,,11.1,,,.11.2 range at the track this bike must be sneaky quick

dont need a bike to ride the fast lane
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