Internal Diameter of Radiator hose - Wrist Twisters
 
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post #1 of 16 Old 08-04-2010, 06:57 AM Thread Starter
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Internal Diameter of Radiator hose

Anyone know the ID of the Radiator hose on the 919? Microfiche pictures I can find just list the part numbers, not any actual measurements.

I'm considering putting a Thermo-Bob in, to get this engine up to a decent temp faster, and keeping at that temp (195-210) more reliably than stock. The manufacturer of this device has a 1 inch ID setup...but if the 919 hoses are larger than that, I don't want to be putting in a bottleneck. Also, I haven't yet been able to find a good diagram of the cooling system to see if this will even be able to be made to work correctly.

Thanks!

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post #2 of 16 Old 08-04-2010, 09:30 AM
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honestly you shouldnt have to worry about the 919's cooling system.... its plenty good for the motor at hand.

Was out in some 100*F weather being hard on her and never saw the temp guage get above and 1/8th inch above the notch at the bottom... only time it got a lil hot is when i was going up a canyon road very slowly behind a car... and even then the fan didnt turn on.

runnin 70/30 distilled water to coolant with water wetter.

also there is already multiple bypass lines on the 919... thermal bob would make no sense.

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post #3 of 16 Old 08-04-2010, 11:08 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by nd4spdbh View Post
honestly you shouldnt have to worry about the 919's cooling system.... its plenty good for the motor at hand.
I'm concerned it works TOO well. I want it to run hotter, and get to temp much quicker than it does now. On cold days, it BARELY gets above cold.

On other bikes I have, that reading equates to about 160 degrees...which is too cold...plus, they continually dump cold coolant into the bottom of the cylinders....not good designs.

I'd still have to determine exactly how the coolant flow patterns go in the 919, as well as the current thermostat rating...but, if it's not 1 inch ID hoses, I'd be wasting my time.

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post #4 of 16 Old 08-04-2010, 11:17 AM
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The tstat on the 919 begins to open at 173-186*F and is fully open at 203*F.

Its normal running temp is usually in or just above the notch above the C... and the fan usually kicks on at about mid way.

There are already 2 bypass systems in place on the 919.... one is through the oil cooler, the other is the actually bypass tube that goes from just before the tstat at the top of the head to the inlet side of the water pump.

heres a flow pattern.

So really... a thermo bob would be pretty much pointless... honda engineers knew what they were doing when they built this bike in regards to its cooling system.
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post #5 of 16 Old 08-04-2010, 11:34 AM Thread Starter
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That's a warmer thermostat than I thought...which is GREAT! Also, your flow pattern diagram makes me believe you are absolutely correct...the bypasses should be doing exactly what the Thermobob added to my other bikes (not Honda's), combined with a decently hot thermostat: it would be pointless.

However, I might see if I can get a warmer thermostat.

I appreciate your help! It's exactly what I needed...

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post #6 of 16 Old 08-04-2010, 11:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blackheart View Post
That's a warmer thermostat than I thought...which is GREAT! Also, your flow pattern diagram makes me believe you are absolutely correct...the bypasses should be doing exactly what the Thermobob added to my other bikes (not Honda's), combined with a decently hot thermostat: it would be pointless.

However, I might see if I can get a warmer thermostat.

I appreciate your help! It's exactly what I needed...
not a problem.

I am curious tho as to why you want to run the motor hotter..... Max performance is to be had around the 170-185*F mark.... the only reason cars these days run up around 208-210 is to increase combustion / exhaust temps so that burning is more complete and the catalytic converter can do its thing better... thus less emissions.... but the same car running at 180 would have a lil better performance.

Also i got that diagram out of the service manual.... u can download it from my webhost if you would like.

http://teamlosi.andrevas.net/pics/ri...ice_Manual.pdf

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post #7 of 16 Old 08-04-2010, 12:24 PM
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this is a bulletproof motor. don't fix what ain't broke. instead, do what i did and make more power until stuff starts breaking! fun !

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post #8 of 16 Old 08-04-2010, 01:04 PM
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this is a bulletproof motor. don't fix what ain't broke. instead, do what i did and make more power until stuff starts breaking! fun !
hahaha.... i lost the link to that vid where you pull a 2nd or 3rd gear power wheelie on the juice!

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post #9 of 16 Old 08-04-2010, 04:05 PM Thread Starter
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I am curious tho as to why you want to run the motor hotter..... Max performance is to be had around the 170-185*F mark....
Just showing my ignorance...I thought it was more efficient at 195-200! Thanks for the link to the manual!

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post #10 of 16 Old 08-05-2010, 10:00 AM
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post #11 of 16 Old 08-05-2010, 12:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blackheart View Post
Just showing my ignorance...I thought it was more efficient at 195-200! Thanks for the link to the manual!
If the engine wants to be most happy, this is where it will be running anyway.
The stat doesn't even fully open until 203 and the fan on temp is after that.
No one builds cooling systems to actually run at 180, and haven't for decades, and it's not just for pollution control reasons either. By the way, engines don't make their peak power unless the oil temp is high enough, as in over 200F, and that is for air or liquid cool, motorcycle inline 4 or big car V8s.
Diesels like even hotter cooling systems, and make their best torque this way. So guess what is happening with new diesel designs to control pollution ? Drop the coolant temp down to help the NOx reduction, and lose power and fuel economy. The automotive gasoline guys back in the 70s bumped up their coolant temps to help reduce unburned hydrocarbons. Think about it, more of the fuel got burned by increasing the coolant temp. Hmmmmmm.

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post #12 of 16 Old 08-05-2010, 03:22 PM
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If you are really wanting it a bit hotter (but why, I keep thinking) you could reduce the % of coolant additive - Honda recommend a 50/50 mix but a 70/30 (water-additive) will effectively reduce it's cooling ability.

But I'd leave it alone

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post #13 of 16 Old 08-05-2010, 04:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AllanB View Post
If you are really wanting it a bit hotter (but why, I keep thinking) you could reduce the % of coolant additive - Honda recommend a 50/50 mix but a 70/30 (water-additive) will effectively reduce it's cooling ability.

But I'd leave it alone
It's actually the opposite of what you said.
A larger water % increases the heat transfer rate and drops the coolant temperature for any given heat load.
Glycol is actually a very poor heat transfer fluid compared to water, and the main reason it is used is for it's low temp non freeze qualities in a mix that is OK for year round use.

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post #14 of 16 Old 08-05-2010, 06:26 PM
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Quote:
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It's actually the opposite of what you said.
A larger water % increases the heat transfer rate and drops the coolant temperature for any given heat load.
Glycol is actually a very poor heat transfer fluid compared to water, and the main reason it is used is for it's low temp non freeze qualities in a mix that is OK for year round use.
yup.... this is why i run a 70% water 30% coolant and water wetter in my bike... stays cool on them hot days.

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post #15 of 16 Old 08-05-2010, 07:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nd4spdbh View Post
yup.... this is why i run a 70% water 30% coolant and water wetter in my bike... stays cool on them hot days.
Living where you do, you could likely go to 90/10, the 10 being enough for water pump seal face lube improvement.
I'm running a 75/25 mix, as I need more protection before the deep freeze starts.
With 75/25 it's good to about 11 F, which covers me into November at which time I do a 50/50 winter storage mix for winter hibernation in the unheated garage.
A 90/10 would only be good down to about 25 F.
Right around 10 % Glycol, the mix won't actually freeze but instead just slush up.
A 85/15 would be good to about 23 F and for sure be in the slush zone and not solid freeze zone.
Distilled water not tap water.
WaterWetter added also - but that has no effect on freeze point.

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post #16 of 16 Old 08-05-2010, 08:21 PM
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eh ya... wanted to run a lil more glycol to keep the pump and seals lubed up properly... i could run 90/10 but i dont need it... cus like stated the 919's cooling system does a great job even with 50 50. Only reason i changed to 70/30 + water wetter was cus i was going to flush the system anyways and figured why not.

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