Intergrated Tailight and Sliders..... Installed - Wrist Twisters
 
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post #1 of 29 Old 09-30-2006, 11:56 AM Thread Starter
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Intergrated Tailight and Sliders..... Installed

Well, got my stuff today....

Motivation Sliders
CA Intergrated Tailight w/ Smoke Lens
Turn Signal Relay

VFX turn signal relay....... Plug and Play, easy. Works fine.

CA Tailight is nice, and even with the Smoke Lens, can easily be seen.

The only bad thing, is I have to send the board back and get a new one. 3-5 rows of LED's on the left side come on and off, each time you tap the tail section. Oh well, I am sure they will make good on it.

The sliders dont come with the drill bit, so I was off to try and find a Metric drill bit of 10mm........ no go. But I will tell you 25/64" is a near perfect match.






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post #2 of 29 Old 09-30-2006, 12:15 PM
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Very nice Troy. There is only one missing in your first 3 pics. Can you guess what it is?


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post #3 of 29 Old 09-30-2006, 12:35 PM
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Looks great! My new sliders arrived today too, so I'll be in the garage soon to tap the frame and slide those babies in! Really nice looking stuff!

2009 Honda Goldwing
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post #4 of 29 Old 09-30-2006, 01:16 PM
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Originally Posted by m51142 View Post
Very nice Troy. There is only one missing in your first 3 pics. Can you guess what it is?

hmmm....Satos!

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post #5 of 29 Old 09-30-2006, 01:43 PM
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Hey GTO Nut. How as the instalation of the CA tial light? Easy? Could you let me know any thing helpful like what to do or not to do?

I don't suppose you took a picture of the wires before you put the tail sectoin back on did you?

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post #6 of 29 Old 09-30-2006, 02:49 PM
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Is there is a need to drill the frame holes, or is it OK to tap from 8 to 10mm? The drill/tap charts say drill size is 8.5 for 10mm tap.

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post #7 of 29 Old 09-30-2006, 04:03 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Super Sneaky Steve View Post
Hey GTO Nut. How as the instalation of the CA tial light? Easy? Could you let me know any thing helpful like what to do or not to do?

I don't suppose you took a picture of the wires before you put the tail sectoin back on did you?

Installation wasnt bad. You leave the 1157 socket in the left side and plug the connector for the brake lights right into it.

You remove the 1157 socket from the right side, and route the 2 yellow blinker wires thru.

I cut the connectors off my original blinkers and soldered them onto the yellow wires, plug em in and your done. The reason I did this, instead of using their quick connects, is that if you use their connectors, then you cant remove the rear bodywork without cutting the turn signal wires..... By soldering on the original connectors, it allows easy removal in the future.

CA has already emailed me back and are already sending me out a new board on Monday. Nice Customer Service.

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post #8 of 29 Old 09-30-2006, 04:06 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ken View Post
Is there is a need to drill the frame holes, or is it OK to tap from 8 to 10mm? The drill/tap charts say drill size is 8.5 for 10mm tap.

Sorry, I have never used a tap But judging from the new hole, I think that would be quite a bit of metal to remove with a tap.

As it was, I had to keep the drill bit lubricated and cooled to drill the hole.

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post #9 of 29 Old 09-30-2006, 04:07 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bock919 View Post
hmmm....Satos!
Wierdly enough, I like the stock exhaust.....

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post #10 of 29 Old 09-30-2006, 04:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ken View Post
Is there is a need to drill the frame holes, or is it OK to tap from 8 to 10mm? The drill/tap charts say drill size is 8.5 for 10mm tap.
I drilled and tapped to relocate my existing sliders.

Relocated Engine Mount Frame Sliders!

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post #11 of 29 Old 09-30-2006, 04:22 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MotoCycho View Post
I drilled and tapped to relocate my existing sliders.

Relocated Engine Mount Frame Sliders!
You guys are actually gonna tap the holes? Why?
Just drill... shove the rod thru.... and tighten it down.....

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post #12 of 29 Old 09-30-2006, 04:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 67GTONUT View Post
You guys are actually gonna tap the holes? Why?
Just drill... shove the rod thru.... and tighten it down.....
I tapped the holes because I didn't have a rod to put in the hole. Otherwise I would have done just that. I was relocating sliders designed for the engine mount position. Besides.. tapping the holes was easy peasy!

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post #13 of 29 Old 09-30-2006, 04:27 PM Thread Starter
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OK...... I see, makes sense

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post #14 of 29 Old 09-30-2006, 04:28 PM
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This is a fantastic write-up. Thanks for the info, MotoCycho!

Quote:
Originally Posted by MotoCycho View Post
I drilled and tapped to relocate my existing sliders.

Relocated Engine Mount Frame Sliders!

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post #15 of 29 Old 09-30-2006, 04:33 PM
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So, how do you rig up the ground wires from the blinkers to the unit? Or does it just use the same ground from the tail light?

Is it easy to remove the board from the tial light?

Last question I promise! why not use the clips on the positive wires on the wire harness? That way you could still remove the turnsignals without cutting them.

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post #16 of 29 Old 09-30-2006, 04:37 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Super Sneaky Steve View Post
So, how do you rig up the ground wires from the blinkers to the unit? Or does it just use the same ground from the tail light?

Is it easy to remove the board from the tial light?

Last question I promise! why not use the clips on the positive wires on the wire harness? That way you could still remove the turnsignals without cutting them.

No need to hook up the blinkers grounds, it must ground thru the board/taillight hookup

the board really just lays in the housing.... wierd, not much holding it there.

I dont know what kind of clips your referring to Steve. The connectors they give you, will permanently hook the yellow wires to the positive on each blinker wire.....

Ask away....

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post #17 of 29 Old 09-30-2006, 04:52 PM
 
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Bike is Lookin good 67GTONUT I like the look of the smoke lens. I did the same with my signals connectors as you. The only thing I did different is with the sockets. I left both sockets in place, pluging the board into the right one and leaving the left one as a seal to keep water out of the inside of the taillight area. The two signal wires I ran through the two small holes that are in the bottom of the taillight. These holes are located on the bottom of the housing were the lens fits into the taillight housing itself (not sure if that makes sense or not). The wires fit through and the lens still screws onto the housing without any problem. (I thought it might pinch the wires) No problems so far

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post #18 of 29 Old 09-30-2006, 04:56 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by krock View Post
Bike is Lookin good 67GTONUT I like the look of the smoke lens. I did the same with my signals connectors as you. The only thing I did different is with the sockets. I left both sockets in place, pluging the board into the right one and leaving the left one as a seal to keep water out of the inside of the taillight area. The two signal wires I ran through the two small holes that are in the bottom of the taillight. These holes are located on the bottom of the housing were the lens fits into the taillight housing itself (not sure if that makes sense or not). The wires fit through and the lens still screws onto the housing without any problem. (I thought it might pinch the wires) No problems so far
Since I have to redo the wiring when I get the replacement board, I will try this, Thank You!!!

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post #19 of 29 Old 10-01-2006, 05:12 AM
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I like the idea of not removing the 2nd. bulb socket. However I don't the idea of running wires and then clamping down on them with the premise that they will never pinch. I drilled two tiny holes in the back of the reflector just big enough to push the yellow blinker wires through. Might have been 1/16" or 3/32" hole not sure but you get the idea. The LED board is held in place with those 2 black 'O' rings. CA has been known to leave them out, be sure you have them and use them. Once again, do a complete functional test before putting everything back together.

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post #20 of 29 Old 10-01-2006, 07:36 AM Thread Starter
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I got the 2 o-rings, but the board doesnt slide into the rear part of the housing enough, to leave enough "meat" to place the o-rings on, so I just slide the o-rings onto the lens parts to hopefully act as some cushion for vibration.

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post #21 of 29 Old 10-01-2006, 08:00 AM
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Now its all coming back, my board did not fit either. Get yourself a small file and do the ol' FTF (file to fit). When properly filed the board will feel solid in place and there will be room for the 'O' rings. I contacted CA but it appears my email has fallen on deaf ears.


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post #22 of 29 Old 10-01-2006, 09:19 AM Thread Starter
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OK, glad it just wasnt me. Will file the new board to fit when I get it. Thanx

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post #23 of 29 Old 10-01-2006, 03:40 PM
 
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I thought about drilling the holes I think I may take it off again and do that.

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post #24 of 29 Old 10-01-2006, 08:16 PM
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I went a slightly different route with mine.
Mine didn't come with those O rings, though I knew they were supposed to be supplied.

I decided to glue my LED board into the lense itself.
When I say glued, I actually used a few small dots of windscreen silicone I had laying about.
This has the advantage of making the connections less troublesome to get at (just remove the lense) and if I do need to remove the LED board for some strange reason, the silicone dots will let go as I need them to.

This also made it easy for me to attach a small LED strip to the under side of the lense for the number plate light.. I have ended up with an all in one unit that can be removed by undoing two screws and unplugging one connector.



If I could get away with having the "integrated" LED board, that would have been sweet.
As it is, Ozzy law requires that our indicators be in a seperate space to any other lighting. Basically, they have to be seperate lights even if they reside within the same assembly.
My (almost) finished product! Sorry, not a great pic.. but you get the idea!

post #25 of 29 Old 10-01-2006, 11:03 PM
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Thread jack : hey DropBear what type of led intergrater light is that? Just noticed buy that pic that it doesn't seem to look like the rest of the CA types but maybe cause most of the pics i've seen are showing the turn signal instead of the running light" as i said before I like your set up

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post #26 of 29 Old 10-02-2006, 06:36 AM
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Thread jack : hey DropBear what type of led intergrater light is that? Just noticed buy that pic that it doesn't seem to look like the rest of the CA types but maybe cause most of the pics i've seen are showing the turn signal instead of the running light" as i said before I like your set up
His isn't integrated. Read the post above yours about Ozzy turn signal requirements.

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post #27 of 29 Old 10-02-2006, 06:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bock919 View Post
His isn't integrated. Read the post above yours about Ozzy turn signal requirements.
Oh you can even see the other lights on the side.. might I add i was up all night!!

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post #28 of 29 Old 10-02-2006, 06:53 AM
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Oh you can even see the other lights on the side.. might I add i was up all night!!
LOL It's all good man, I've done my share of bonehead posts before reading, too.

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post #29 of 29 Old 10-02-2006, 08:46 PM
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Heh heh.. and at least your question was answered by someone quicker off the mark than me too! Cheers guys..

Oh and I think the U.K has similar requirements for their indicators too, but I think they're more strict on the issue down here.
I wish we could use the "integrated" board.. it looks a lot neater.. but I am rather pleased with my own efforts regarding the license plate light..

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