Intake mods - Wrist Twisters
 
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post #1 of 12 Old 11-13-2008, 07:22 AM Thread Starter
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Intake mods

Here is a few picts of the mods I performed on my intake. Please note the bike is very dirty, I'm a lazy f. The scoup was made using a styro-foam form then covered with plastic wrap. After the plastic I fiber-glassed it. When the glass had cured I poured lacquer thinner in it to remove the styro-foam. As you will also note it's not finished (the whole lazy f thing).
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post #2 of 12 Old 11-13-2008, 08:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fastbackdlm View Post
Here is a few picts of the mods I performed on my intake. Please note the bike is very dirty, I'm a lazy f. The scoup was made using a styro-foam form then covered with plastic wrap. After the plastic I fiber-glassed it. When the glass had cured I poured lacquer thinner in it to remove the styro-foam. As you will also note it's not finished (the whole lazy f thing).
Among the many 9er mods that go through my mind, this was one of them. . .a ram air intake. ---Nice job. Rather than a horizontal inlet that sticks out in harms way, a vertical design that wraps around the cylinder would be aesthetically pleasing and out of the way. If I'm not lazy, may be I'll design one. Did you mold-in the mounting base from the OEM inlet to mount your "scoop" to the air box?

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post #3 of 12 Old 11-13-2008, 09:18 AM
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Nice mod. Does it sound throatier? Do you feel any noticable gains or response?

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post #4 of 12 Old 11-13-2008, 10:50 AM
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yeah, whats she sound like?





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post #5 of 12 Old 11-13-2008, 11:37 AM Thread Starter
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The butt dyno says there is an improvement in 70mph roll-ons. I tested it with and without by installing the scoup on the side of the highway. The reason it sticks out is to get away from the heated air from the radiator. If you look at the airbox pic that is whats left of my flapper air inlet thingy. I use it to keep my K&N filter in place.

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post #6 of 12 Old 11-13-2008, 01:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Fastbackdlm View Post
The butt dyno says there is an improvement in 70mph roll-ons. I tested it with and without by installing the scoup on the side of the highway. The reason it sticks out is to get away from the heated air from the radiator. If you look at the airbox pic that is whats left of my flapper air inlet thingy. I use it to keep my K&N filter in place.
The flow of "rammed" air would be unobstructed if the intake were vertical and almost butted (and insulated from engine heat) against the cylinder. If designed correctly, that direct flow of "cold air" would be to the left and below of your concerned hot air coming from the radiator. ---Besides performance, I bother myself with the aesthetic solutions as well.

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post #7 of 12 Old 11-13-2008, 01:49 PM Thread Starter
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Your right I'm a function over form person. It was also quick (under an hour omitting curing time). Ride the bike around like I did and feel the air with your hand you may be suprised.

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post #8 of 12 Old 11-13-2008, 06:54 PM
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I like it. I have been considering the same thing, but I do not really want to take away from the flow of the bike.

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post #9 of 12 Old 11-13-2008, 08:01 PM
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Good job for a test setup -- I wonder how it could be run on a dyno to get some hard numbers. Maybe a very high velocity fan?

One observation: the few times I've had the fairing off a ram air equipped bike the intake runners are invariably configured to channel air to the airbox only after dropping water out of it, undoubtedly to prevent a heavy rainstorm or splash from a car through a deep puddle from flooding the airbox and hydraulicing the motor. It's less of an issue with sidedraft throttle bodies rather than the straight as an arrow downdraft setups on many sportbikes, but I can see where at the very least water could completely soak the air filter, choking off practically all the air to the motor. Of course, without a fairing to hide all that very ugly plumbing it would be ... very ugly. You just can't win.

Regardless, a creative job of fabrication. Well done.

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post #10 of 12 Old 11-14-2008, 03:14 AM
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Dyno it with a and without a leaf blower in front of the scoop!

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post #11 of 12 Old 11-14-2008, 05:58 AM Thread Starter
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Rob your right about the water thing. Here's what I thought about it. Manufactors are worried about people washing bikes at a car washs and spraying water in the intakes. The other is the reason I kept the stock airbox. The airbox internal baffeling and drains should seperate the water and not let it up into the motor. And last, how fast would you need to be going in the rain and how hard would it need to be raining for the wet K&N filter to obstruct air flow to a noticable extent?

And your right this is just a first attempt to see if the gains are worth the effort. I think they are. I was going to dyno the bike (I have an automotive chassis dyno with a fixtue to hold bikes on it) with and without the scoup. I just need to be able to vary air velocity with wheel speed so the fuel mixture won't go crazy lean at low rpms. Any ideas?

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post #12 of 12 Old 11-14-2008, 08:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fastbackdlm View Post
Rob your right about the water thing. Here's what I thought about it. Manufactors are worried about people washing bikes at a car washs and spraying water in the intakes. The other is the reason I kept the stock airbox. The airbox internal baffeling and drains should seperate the water and not let it up into the motor. And last, how fast would you need to be going in the rain and how hard would it need to be raining for the wet K&N filter to obstruct air flow to a noticable extent?
The configuration of the ram air intake runners is intended to direct the bulk air flow to an eddy chamber with very complex baffling intended to knock water out without sacrificing intake velocity excessively -- I know this because I saw a wrecked Kaw 636 at a salvage with the left side of the fairing gone and the ram air duct torn open. I immediately recognized the internal configuration as very similar to the dry sump oil tank air / oil separator in a WWII Messerschmidt ME 109, designed for high velocity operation. If it was intended for quiescent drop out there would be minimal baffling.

I also learned from a co worker's Mazda RX-7 which had a NACA duct ram scoop plumbed directly to the air filter housing that it doesn't take a very heavy rain storm to soak an air filter element to the point of losing power: at first the motor ran better, but as the rain got a little heavier (wipers still on slow) the air filter got soaked to the point of producing barely enough power to go up a slight incline. We speculated that surface tension of the water decreased the effective pore size to about 1/3 when dry (based on MAF readings for given throttle position and rpm).
Quote:
And your right this is just a first attempt to see if the gains are worth the effort. I think they are. I was going to dyno the bike (I have an automotive chassis dyno with a fixtue to hold bikes on it) with and without the scoup. I just need to be able to vary air velocity with wheel speed so the fuel mixture won't go crazy lean at low rpms. Any ideas?
Things get a bit complicated here. First, you will need some method of measuring air velocity, the simplest being an anemometer (wind speed measuring device): I looked on EBAY and found several -- http://cgi.ebay.com/sper-scientific-...QQcmdZViewItem Is one, but there were quite a few others. With that mounted just above the intake horn you should get a pretty accurate idea of air velocity across it. The biggest problem is getting enough velocity from a fan -- a high speed squirrel cage fan with a 6" outlet rated at 1200 CFM produces an outlet velocity equivalent to 18 mph. I'm afraid in order to reproduce 60 mph wind the fan would have to be rated at 4,700 CFM out of a 6" outlet, and those are very expensive! At least with the anemometer you would be able to test various fans to see how close to what you need they can produce. Remember as well the you can't just duct the fan output directly to the snorkel -- it must emulate free air flowing past the various bits it will encounter before it gets to the intake to duplicate heat flow, eddying, the effects of a spinning front wheel on flow paths, and the myriad other variables involved in this setup. No mean feat. Of course, you could run it in a wind tunnel equipped with a dyno, but if you think dyno time is expensive ...

Unfortunatley if you want valid results it's going to take some creativity and a fair amount of cash to get them, unless you can locate a dyno facility equipped for this sort of test.

Rob

If it has already been done, it is safe to assume it is possible to do it.
On the other hand, if it has not been done never assume it is impossible to do it.
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