Installing Bars - Wrist Twisters
 
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post #1 of 22 Old 12-29-2010, 10:58 AM Thread Starter
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Installing Bars

OK group, I have searched and I have read through many threads regarding handlebars, but I still have a few questions, sorry if this is repetitve...

1. Besides removing the 4 chrome looking plastic caps to access the screws to remove the stock bars, I am not sure on how to get either the right or left hand controls off.

2. I just have the bars (renthal UL), what else is essential for installation? New grips? Do I have to decided on bar-ends now? -I ask because I am contemplating bar end mirrors but can not pull the trigger on that now, which leads too....

3. I would fall into the drilling camp, but does drilling not allow you to make adjustments later? -Such as width of bars (I do not plan on chopping them at all to begin with), rotation of bars, bar end types, mirrors on end or not...

Any help is appreciated, as stated I have searched and gained some knowledge but...I am a newbie at this and want to do it right.

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post #2 of 22 Old 12-29-2010, 01:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HondaCrazy View Post
OK group, I have searched and I have read through many threads regarding handlebars, but I still have a few questions, sorry if this is repetitve...

1. Besides removing the 4 chrome looking plastic caps to access the screws to remove the stock bars, I am not sure on how to get either the right or left hand controls off.
First, leave the OEM bar bolted to the triple clamp until all the controls / grip / barends / whatever else are removed. Next unscrew the bar end weights from their holders and set them aside.
The right side is the easier to do -- just disconnect the brake light switch (Under the master cylinder. Be careful as the lugs on the switch are thin and fragile!), then loosen the master cylinder bolts (8mm hex heads) and throttle / switch housing screws (#2 philips head screws). Now remove the two bolts clamping the master cylinder to the bar and move the master to an out of the way location being sure it stays relatively upright and without stressing the brake line. Leave the throttle assembly where it is for the moment. Why? It is impossible to remove it without disconnecting the cables -- and trust me, you don't want to go there!
The left side is more difficult. Unplug the clutch switch wires at the perch and unbolt (two 8mm hex head bolts) the clutch lever assembly. It is not necessary to disconect the cable. Next, unscrew the switch housing (two #2 philips head screws) and open it enough to remove it from the bar. A circular trim piece will stay behind. Now, if you want to reuse the grip there is plenty of info here on removing it intact. Personally, I use two paint stirring sticks placed flat against the bar and pulled to the inside of the grip. This expands it enough to slide it off the bar. Some lubrication worked in between the grip and bar such as dish soap / water solution may be necessary. Avoid oils -- they can permeate the grip and cause it to slide when reinstalled. Once the grip is off the bar can be removed using a 6mm allen key. Once the bolts are removed (and the upper clamps are put in a safe place) the bar can be slid to the left while holding the throttle assembly.
Quote:
2. I just have the bars (renthal UL), what else is essential for installation? New grips? Do I have to decided on bar-ends now? -I ask because I am contemplating bar end mirrors but can not pull the trigger on that now, which leads too....

3. I would fall into the drilling camp, but does drilling not allow you to make adjustments later? -Such as width of bars (I do not plan on chopping them at all to begin with), rotation of bars, bar end types, mirrors on end or not...

Any help is appreciated, as stated I have searched and gained some knowledge but...I am a newbie at this and want to do it right.
As many manuals say ... assembly is the reverse of installation, with some info thrown in. All the bolted clamps are directional -- the master cylinder and clutch clamps are marked with an up arrow, and the handlebar clamps have a punch mark by one hole. The punch mark must be facing forward, and the bolts in those holes must be tightened completely first. Yeah, there's a why here too. The four (clutch, master, and two handlebar) clamps are accurately machined for a 7/8ths bar, and are designed to be closed completely on the up / front sides. Once they are tightened the retention can be tweaked by tightening the lower / rear bolts.

As to drilling the bars ... there is an alternative to grinding the pin out but still have an operable setup. One of the accessories shipped with my TharBars is a throttle shim, which allows the control to be secured without drilling. Once you know where the controls need to be it's a simple operation to transfer the hole location from the shim to the bar for driling.

To all who have bought my bars: if you have finished with (and still have) the throttle shim could you send it hondacrazy's way? It's really the best way to position the controls. Who knows ... it could make the rounds like the 15 tooth countershaft sprocket(s?) that have been on a dozen different bikes.

Rob

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post #3 of 22 Old 12-29-2010, 02:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robtharalson View Post
First, leave the OEM bar bolted to the triple clamp until all the controls / grip / barends / whatever else are removed. Next unscrew the bar end weights from their holders and set them aside.
The right side is the easier to do -- just disconnect the brake light switch (Under the master cylinder. Be careful as the lugs on the switch are thin and fragile!), then loosen the master cylinder bolts (8mm hex heads) and throttle / switch housing screws (#2 philips head screws). Now remove the two bolts clamping the master cylinder to the bar and move the master to an out of the way location being sure it stays relatively upright and without stressing the brake line. Leave the throttle assembly where it is for the moment. Why? It is impossible to remove it without disconnecting the cables -- and trust me, you don't want to go there!
The left side is more difficult. Unplug the clutch switch wires at the perch and unbolt (two 8mm hex head bolts) the clutch lever assembly. It is not necessary to disconect the cable. Next, unscrew the switch housing (two #2 philips head screws) and open it enough to remove it from the bar. A circular trim piece will stay behind. Now, if you want to reuse the grip there is plenty of info here on removing it intact. Personally, I use two paint stirring sticks placed flat against the bar and pulled to the inside of the grip. This expands it enough to slide it off the bar. Some lubrication worked in between the grip and bar such as dish soap / water solution may be necessary. Avoid oils -- they can permeate the grip and cause it to slide when reinstalled. Once the grip is off the bar can be removed using a 6mm allen key. Once the bolts are removed (and the upper clamps are put in a safe place) the bar can be slid to the left while holding the throttle assembly.
As many manuals say ... assembly is the reverse of installation, with some info thrown in. All the bolted clamps are directional -- the master cylinder and clutch clamps are marked with an up arrow, and the handlebar clamps have a punch mark by one hole. The punch mark must be facing forward, and the bolts in those holes must be tightened completely first. Yeah, there's a why here too. The four (clutch, master, and two handlebar) clamps are accurately machined for a 7/8ths bar, and are designed to be closed completely on the up / front sides. Once they are tightened the retention can be tweaked by tightening the lower / rear bolts.

As to drilling the bars ... there is an alternative to grinding the pin out but still have an operable setup. One of the accessories shipped with my TharBars is a throttle shim, which allows the control to be secured without drilling. Once you know where the controls need to be it's a simple operation to transfer the hole location from the shim to the bar for driling.

To all who have bought my bars: if you have finished with (and still have) the throttle shim could you send it hondacrazy's way? It's really the best way to position the controls. Who knows ... it could make the rounds like the 15 tooth countershaft sprocket(s?) that have been on a dozen different bikes.

Rob
As always, we can all count on Mr. Tharlson to take the time to do a well written and all encompassing definitive piece.

Hats off !

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post #4 of 22 Old 12-29-2010, 03:00 PM
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Having changed my 9er's bars out several times I offer the following.

Once the stock barend weight are off a slip screwdriver carefully inserted under the grip and wiggled around will allow it's removal (if you have a air compressor a squirt of air in there will work well) - a squirt of CRC or similar helps and can be cleaned up with brake cleaner on the surfaces.

Unplug clutch and brake plugs as per Robs instructions. I found it easer if you remove the front brake holder and I always tape this to the heldlight or similar in a upright position (same as on a bar) - it keeps it out of the way. Undoo clutch at this time too (this can hang, but again I tie it up to keep it out of the way).

Loosen off the switch gear screws - you can open the left one and take it off the bar at this stage. There will now be nothing left on the left bar. Undo the bar clamps (4) and support the bar so it does not flop (cover you tank with a blanket as a safeguard) and hold the right throttle assembly and slowly pull the bar left to slide the throttle off the bar. I found there was not enough cable to remove the throttle with the bar on the bike. Do the same in reverse for reassembly.

As above for drilling. And reassemble - use grip glue when putting hte cleaned grips or new ones back on.

I prefer new grips as the stock ones are narrow and there are better ones on the market that absorb vibrations etc.

I am running weighted bar ends on my Ultra Lows to kill any vibrations and bar end mirrors clamped to the actual bar, consquently I had to allow for this when drilling the throttle hole.

You need to decide now what set up you want as if you need to reposition the throotle inwards later will mean drilling a secon hole - one if fine but I'd avoid another close by.

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post #5 of 22 Old 12-30-2010, 05:25 AM Thread Starter
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Awesome replies, thanks fellas. I will heading to the shop on Friday to order replacement bars, the ones that were given as a gift were hyper bars. I think the UL's are actually cheaper, so I may be able to get some grips with the difference, and I will start researching bar end goodies. The place I bought it from put on new grips, but they arent all that great. I had pro gel grips on my F4i and liked those...cushy.

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post #6 of 22 Old 12-30-2010, 05:44 AM
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To add my $.03

First thing. Cover the tank!

The air compressor trick works like a charm. Simply jam a nozzle under the end of the grip and shoot some air in while working the grip off. It floats right off.

If you don't want to completely disassemble your controls for removal, you can loosen them all, loosen the bar, slide the bar toward one side while moving one set of controls inboard. This will allow the other set of controls to slip off the other end of the bar. Then slide the bar the other way to remove the other controls.

I have the Renthal mid bars and I drilled and chopped. Actually, I didn't chop enough so I plan on drilling the bar again and removing some more. I have never needed the leverage.

I also have a CRG bar end mirror. Mine clamps to the bar rather that fit inside so I needed to leave enough of the bar past the grip to affix the mirror.

I do not use any sort of vibration damping. The thick aluminum of Renthal bars absorbs everything. I have Rizoma Grips and endcaps so I needed to disconnect the throttle cables to install the new cam. Rob was right. Reconnecting throttle cables is a bitch, but it just needs some patience and finesse.

Measure 4 times drill once!

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post #7 of 22 Old 12-30-2010, 06:54 AM
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Your wife's/girlfriend's hairspray is a cheap and handy alternative to grip glue. I have been using that trick since way back in my days of riding BMX bicycles. Spray enough inside the grip to get it wet and slippery. That will allow you to position the grip easily. Once the hairspray dries it will be permanently in place.

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post #8 of 22 Old 12-30-2010, 06:58 AM Thread Starter
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nice tips...dont be shy if you have anything to add. very excited to get this done.

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post #9 of 22 Old 12-30-2010, 10:49 AM
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Rob's shim would be ideal. Barring that (pun intended), I was one of the guys who did not drill. I simply took off the dimple with a file and rotary tool (I would call it a Dremel but mine is a Harbor Freight special not worthy of that name). I installed with a bit of two-sided tape and have had no issues. Not having a bench vise or other decent method to clamp the bar while drilling, I was paranoid about botching the job.

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post #10 of 22 Old 12-30-2010, 12:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jay313 View Post
Rob's shim would be ideal. Barring that (pun intended), I was one of the guys who did not drill. I simply took off the dimple with a file and rotary tool (I would call it a Dremel but mine is a Harbor Freight special not worthy of that name). I installed with a bit of two-sided tape and have had no issues. Not having a bench vise or other decent method to clamp the bar while drilling, I was paranoid about botching the job.
I drilled mine after I put them on the bike. Just lined up the controls where I wanted them (after getting the bars where I wanted them and tightening the bars down) then taped the top portion of the controls down, removed the bottom slight, wet my finger with some spit, dabbed it on the 'nub' that goes into the hole you want to drill, then lightly put it back on the bars.

Take it off and that little wet spot you now see on the bars? That's exactly where you want to drill. Took a pencil and marked it; repeated a couple of times (wipe off the spit, then do it again) to make sure it was the same place and I wasn't moving something. Then drilled; carefully of course. Came out perfect. As an afterthought I probably should have put some heavy tape around the bar where I was drilling in case I slipped the bit, but I am good at drilling and was using a brand new titanium tipped bit with pilot tip, so it went in right where I put it and didn't budge the entire time.

I did notice that the one side (can't remember which) had a plastic nub, the other was metal. I think the throttle side was metal. Either way, one is smaller than the other, I used the same size bit to drill both, but one has just a touch of movement. I don't even notice it, probably a 1/16th of an inch or less. So if you're picky about that, start with a smaller drill bit and work up until it just fits.

It's the left side that wiggles (again, BARELY, I don't even notice it, only when I installed it did I notice) so use a smaller bit on the left side.

I used Rizoma bars, weights and ends and love them.

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post #11 of 22 Old 12-30-2010, 03:41 PM
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Quote:
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nice tips...dont be shy if you have anything to add. very excited to get this done.
I did not drill re the pod pins.
My pods then slipped.
I used some carefully placed cloth type surgical tape and used that as a sort of shim that had some surface friction quality as well.
Be careful not to overtighten the pod screws.

I did not drill re the pod pins.
Instead, I ground off the pins.
I did a lousy job of masking off the area, you almost need to do a dental dam type masking job.
The pins were aluminum and the grindings got into the switches, so I had to clean things out, and used aerosol non chlorinated brake parts cleaner to do so.

What I did take the time to do was to very carefully lay out and successfully accurately drill the detent holes necessary for the factory internal bar weights.

If I was to do it again, I still would not drill for pod pins BUT I would be fanatical about masking off the pod so no grindings got into the switchgear.
If you do the tape trick, be very careful where you place it, and not to use too much of it. It only needs to go where there is pod webbing that will load up on the tape against the bar.

Also.
I too found the throttle cables were too short to allow removal of that pod assembly with grip still on.
I just held the bars and moved them left once I had the right pod loosened, and that allowed the pod to slide right off. (once the pod screws are removed and the pod pin popped out of its hole)

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post #12 of 22 Old 01-01-2011, 05:37 AM
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Grip removal tip:

Take a wire coat hanger, the "standard" size one, not the flimsy white one, cut an 8 inch long section from the bottom of the triangle. Chuck that into yout drill and carefully work it under the grip. Start the drill. The "wire" will walk all the way around the grip and bar. Just start pulling. You'll have the grip off in 30 seconds.

Satisifaction guarenteed, or double your coat hangers back.

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post #13 of 22 Old 01-01-2011, 09:51 AM
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Quote:
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I drilled mine after I put them on the bike. . . .

I did notice that the one side (can't remember which) had a plastic nub, the other was metal. I think the throttle side was metal. . . .
Never even thought about using the bike itself as a "clamp" to hold the bar while I drilled it. Doh! Good idea.

Plastic nub got the rotary tool treatment; metal got the rat-tail file. It was really no big deal, and I've had no issues at all with pod movement.

However, I didn't pay a whole lot of attention to filings/shavings flying around, and I did end up having my turn signal switch fail not long after. It would no longer engage on a left turn signal. Coincidence? Probably, but wouldn't hurt to be more cautious than I was about taping up the pods to keep them free of debris. I replaced the signal switch with a used one from a fellow WT member, so not too much $ damage.

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post #14 of 22 Old 01-01-2011, 09:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sniper View Post
Grip removal tip:

Take a wire coat hanger, the "standard" size one, not the flimsy white one, cut an 8 inch long section from the bottom of the triangle. Chuck that into yout drill and carefully work it under the grip. Start the drill. The "wire" will walk all the way around the grip and bar. Just start pulling. You'll have the grip off in 30 seconds.

Satisifaction guarenteed, or double your coat hangers back.
You could put an eye out like that, young man! Lol.

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post #15 of 22 Old 01-03-2011, 10:22 AM Thread Starter
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got the bars ordered friday and picked up some pro grips. still have to decide on what to do with the bar ends, like if i will stick with the mirrors mounted to the controls, or go with bar end mirrors... i like the aprilia replacement, but like the bar ends too....

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post #16 of 22 Old 01-03-2011, 10:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sniper View Post
Grip removal tip:

Take a wire coat hanger, the "standard" size one, not the flimsy white one, cut an 8 inch long section from the bottom of the triangle. Chuck that into yout drill and carefully work it under the grip. Start the drill. The "wire" will walk all the way around the grip and bar. Just start pulling. You'll have the grip off in 30 seconds.

Satisifaction guarenteed, or double your coat hangers back.
...won't scratch your bars?

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post #17 of 22 Old 01-03-2011, 10:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HondaCrazy View Post
got the bars ordered friday and picked up some pro grips. still have to decide on what to do with the bar ends, like if i will stick with the mirrors mounted to the controls, or go with bar end mirrors... i like the aprilia replacement, but like the bar ends too....
How wide are your hands? I rode a buddy's bike that had bar ends and ended up with blisters on the edge of my palm where the mirror mounted. Liked 'em, but decided I couldn't go that route because of that problem. Got Rizoma's instead and love em, even though the mirror is a bit small.

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post #18 of 22 Old 01-03-2011, 11:37 AM Thread Starter
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decently wide, so there are bar end mirrors that screw in as bar ends, and there are others that "clamp" on and your buddy have the "clamp" on type?

regarding using the hanger, i assume it would only scratch the bars that you are trying to remove the grip from, ie the stockers i am getting rid of.

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post #19 of 22 Old 01-03-2011, 12:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HondaCrazy View Post
decently wide, so there are bar end mirrors that screw in as bar ends, and there are others that "clamp" on and your buddy have the "clamp" on type?

regarding using the hanger, i assume it would only scratch the bars that you are trying to remove the grip from, ie the stockers i am getting rid of.
Come to think of it, they were. Right at the end of the grip; drove me nuts.

Never thought of that, thanks!

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post #20 of 22 Old 01-03-2011, 12:33 PM
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The CRG on mine clamps on, but they have an internal adapter that basically extends the handlebar. It just clamps on to the adapter. I don't have a problem with my hand hitting it as I left enough room for my hand to fit. I had to leave the left end a 1/2" longer to facilitate clamping the mirror on.

http://www.constructorsrg.com/mirrors/adaptor.html

[IMG][/IMG]



There are cheaper alternatives to CRG if you want to go the barend route. Motrax is one fairly common brand. I can say CRG is top end when it comes to quality though. Billet aluminum construction with real glass mirror and almost zero vibration.

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post #21 of 22 Old 01-03-2011, 01:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HondaCrazy View Post
regarding using the hanger, i assume it would only scratch the bars that you are trying to remove the grip from, ie the stockers i am getting rid of.
Hang onto that stock bar and bar ends. I ended up selling mine to a fellow WT member. Good deal for both of us.

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post #22 of 22 Old 01-03-2011, 01:51 PM Thread Starter
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FLycatcher, what is like only having one mirror...? i kinda planned on doing two...

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