OK group, I have searched and I have read through many threads regarding handlebars, but I still have a few questions, sorry if this is repetitve...
1. Besides removing the 4 chrome looking plastic caps to access the screws to remove the stock bars, I am not sure on how to get either the right or left hand controls off.
First, leave the OEM bar bolted to the triple clamp until all the controls / grip / barends / whatever else are removed. Next unscrew the bar end weights from their holders and set them aside.
The right side is the easier to do -- just disconnect the brake light switch (Under the master cylinder. Be careful as the lugs on the switch are thin and fragile!), then loosen the master cylinder bolts (8mm hex heads) and throttle / switch housing screws (#2 philips head screws). Now remove the two bolts clamping the master cylinder to the bar and move the master to an out of the way location being sure it stays relatively upright and without stressing the brake line. Leave the throttle assembly where it is for the moment. Why? It is impossible to remove it without disconnecting the cables -- and trust me, you don't want to go there!
The left side is more difficult. Unplug the clutch switch wires at the perch and unbolt (two 8mm hex head bolts) the clutch lever assembly. It is not necessary to disconect the cable. Next, unscrew the switch housing (two #2 philips head screws) and open it enough to remove it from the bar. A circular trim piece will stay behind. Now, if you want to reuse the grip there is plenty of info here on removing it intact. Personally, I use two paint stirring sticks placed flat against the bar and pulled to the inside of the grip. This expands it enough to slide it off the bar. Some lubrication worked in between the grip and bar such as dish soap / water solution may be necessary. Avoid oils -- they can permeate the grip and cause it to slide when reinstalled. Once the grip is off the bar can be removed using a 6mm allen key. Once the bolts are removed (and the upper clamps are put in a safe place) the bar can be slid to the left while holding the throttle assembly.
2. I just have the bars (renthal UL), what else is essential for installation? New grips? Do I have to decided on bar-ends now? -I ask because I am contemplating bar end mirrors but can not pull the trigger on that now, which leads too....
3. I would fall into the drilling camp, but does drilling not allow you to make adjustments later? -Such as width of bars (I do not plan on chopping them at all to begin with), rotation of bars, bar end types, mirrors on end or not...
Any help is appreciated, as stated I have searched and gained some knowledge but...I am a newbie at this and want to do it right.
As many manuals say ... assembly is the reverse of installation, with some info thrown in. All the bolted clamps are directional -- the master cylinder and clutch clamps are marked with an up arrow, and the handlebar clamps have a punch mark by one hole. The punch mark must be facing forward, and the bolts in those holes must be tightened completely first. Yeah, there's a why here too. The four (clutch, master, and two handlebar) clamps are accurately machined for a 7/8ths bar, and are designed to be closed completely on the up / front sides. Once they are tightened the retention can be tweaked by tightening the lower / rear bolts.
As to drilling the bars ... there is an alternative to grinding the pin out but still have an operable setup. One of the accessories shipped with my TharBars is a throttle shim, which allows the control to be secured without drilling. Once you know where the controls need to be it's a simple operation to transfer the hole location from the shim to the bar for driling.
To all who have bought my bars: if you have finished with (and still have) the throttle shim could you send it hondacrazy's way? It's really the best way to position the controls.
Who knows ... it could make the rounds like the 15 tooth countershaft sprocket(s?) that have been on a dozen different bikes.